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Tahoegold

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  1. OK, This is the best explanation in my mind, of the difference in the AM vs Disc. The ground variation is the big difference. Which helps decide the size and depth. OK, AM is best in areas with low trash. I'll buy that. I used AM a few times and recovered tiny bits of lead in sand, so I know I can use it. I know what you mean about Aluminum. It hits well on that. I didn't know about the numbers and the spread for Iron and gold areas. That seems like a good thing to me. Coins are all up in the high numbers. Now I have a much better grasp of this detector. Great info, Thanks!
  2. Thanks for the history on this! Now I'm really glad I have the racer. I was tempted to try a Mars coil. But, the sales rep that sees returns on coils said the manufacturers coils were usually designed with better specs. However, now I'm thinking, if I ever need a replacement, there's some interesting options in sizes. Mars coils may be more rugged. I'm not sure. But, that woud be my reasoning to try another brand. At least I have options!
  3. This EXACTLY!! I like to cherry pick at first, grab what I can of the easy stuff and then set up for the tiny stuff when I find a spot where it seems people had been. This is where I was trying to find jewelry. I then cherry pick with disc 2 in 10, tone break at 30. I know now I was not tuned because of my test chain results. Now I'll set to 0 on Disc 2 and 0 on tone break. Single tone all metal and go for the tiny stuff. I seem to be hearing the high tone better. My mind is set to be alerted to that tone. The GR takes a lot of confusion out of the beach crazy using it's tool
  4. So, I wanted to ask this again. Will the Disc 2 be just as deep and sensitive as all metal when the ID mask is set to 0? I was not sure. Is the all metal circuitry different? Is there still something reducing sensitivity in Disc 2 even at 0? Because, I sure can hear responses better in Disc mode. I tend to get frustrated with the muted sound of all metal. If I don't get a response, I may do a test myself. Which I should do anyway. Maybe NotMac is reading this and can reply. Why would the disc channels have such great signal sound compared to all metal? So crisp and distinct!
  5. I see, that could be an option if I have an issue with a coil like I did once. I got another. That big coil is nice but, it would be nice to have a slightly smaller one. That's for another day when I have money to burn! Or, need a replacement. I think the GR is excellent. However, it probably is niche. It works great for me!
  6. Ok, I see, flat iron. I was talking to a dealer about the different coils. He had the opinion that the manufacturers coils seem to work best on most detectors. I haven't had any experience with after market coils. I think the big coil is all I can handle. It gets a bit tiring after a while swinging it on the beach. It is deeper by an inch or 2. I like that it really covers ground. Mostly, I'm really glad it hits the tiny chain at an inch. I feel that I still have a good chance at micro stuff even with this big of a coil. Amazing to me.
  7. Thanks again KAC!! This is the thread I've been needing! GREAT info. I have the concentric. I never thought the coil type would change the ID. I have the large coil as well for the beach. I noticed on that coil the quarters show up 5 points higher into the 90s. I didnt think about the concentric. So, since the big coil moves the coing numbers higher, I think I need to check all my coils and get familiar with the difference between each. I read about the tracking. I keep it off in disc. But, changing the tone break to make it single tone is a nice tip. I kept having to
  8. This has been very informative. Sensitivity for the right depth of target, id filter off or 1 to 2 for chatter. Find the iron break point. That one about the gold showing 30s-40s but not sounding in the high tone until the tone break is down in the 20s was surprising. All good stuff. I just wonder how much stuff I missed. It's ok, this is changing things for me. My chain would sound off all balled up, but when I dangled it, I had to go down to 3 before it sounded. 0 was clear and crisp. I hunted in 0 today and that was really great. I feel like I finally have the detector I wanted. No
  9. Ok, I just did a test hunt, I was finding tiny bits and parts. I found a few coins too. However, now I seem to be kinda excited to find tiny tiny bits. I didn't care if they weren't jewelry. The ID isn't accurate in this hunt mode. But, I sure can tell that, indeed, it's a target, and it's tiny. Like, a staple, a tiny screw. So, now, I think, I'm not going to disc out anything when hunting like this. Here's my question. To you that have found small earings, tiny rings and chains etc. Do you just dig it all? I'm thinking that's the only way to even know for sure. I finding mys
  10. Thanks Mike,This is good too! I can detect the chain itself. Holding the clasp and dangling the chain. It reads 3!! So yeah, it's in the iron/hot rock range!! However, it sure doesnt sound like a hot rock. It gives a distinct but short signal. I do know at that point it's a tiny but valid target. I'm ok with the sensitivity and trash, in some areas, there's some trash but not piled together. I just needed to be able to hear it and now I do. I had no way of knowing until I found this chain. It's really tiny. It looks like a necklace for a small person, but it has reall
  11. Thanks KAC! This is what I needed! I kinda found out some of this. But these settings confirm and add to my understanding. 0 seemed to be great in Disc 2. But I didn't think about using 1 or 2 for ground chatter. ( We're talking disc not imask) I could use 1 and 2 and still get a signal. 3 was barely making a signal. I can see how that method would quiet it down. That's a nice tip. I had set my tone break at 35 because it would make most iron go to the low tone. I like the idea of making the nail tone break up. I'll try that. I really started to like the sounds r
  12. So, I really like the Makro Gold Racer. I keep finding more things about it. Recently, I found a really tiny 14k gold chain visually, just lying on the ground. I had my compadre and it couldnt pick it up. I took the chain home and tried it on my GR. I had the factory settings, 10 on disc, using Disc 2 the deeper one, and tone break at 30. Nothing, I couldn't get it to detect it. So, while I was waving this chain in front of the 10" DD coil I started lowering the disc, I realized the ID number was about 3. So, I experimented with going one number at a time all the way to 0. At 1 I could g
  13. So, the coil was overloading, then, falsing, then completely stopped transmitting. No sound, unable to ground balance, ground balance numbers frozen. I lift the coil to eye level, then gently move the coil front to back maybe 1/2" and it transmits on then off. I velcroed it in place in the working direction and it stayed working. I hope that I can keep it running for a while. Seems a wire may have already separated... I'm missing that small coil, it was a trash sniper. I figure this is part of the learning curve. Sometimes it costs to get experience.
  14. I just had my 10" DD do the overload and falsing. Also, it cut out all together. I heard that the wire where it meets the coil can be an issue. I wiggled it there and yep, that's where it was. I wrapped the wire around the other direction around the shaft and it worked. I was able to use it. Now, does this mean I should be looking towards this coil dying now too.?
  15. Ok, great info. Heck, this thread is turning into a "How to care for your Notka/Makro coils". Kinda cool...
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