Doc
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Posts posted by Doc
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47 minutes ago, DSMITH said:
Your mind works like mine Doc LOL
I have been setting here trying to figure out how to anchor that ball into that thing that goes on your belt, instead of using a hair tie
My thoughts as an experiment was to take a 1 inch nylon washer which i already have, drill a hole into the bottom of the Delrin ball then thread that hole, use the 1 inch cupped washer I have with a nylon bolt screwed into the bottom side of that little white ball, then use some gorilla glue on the threads of the small bolt, that would allow a little bit of side to side movement and movement front and back but it would keep that little ball in the cup,my problem is I do not think it would hold up very long and most likely the nylon bolt would end up snapping off
I did have to shorten the hip stick I made because it was just awkward at the length I had it, shortened it to 16 1/2 inches and it changed the way it worked completely for the better, the Delrin, white ball bearings I used I had to drill the holes to put the Rod in, those are self lubricating and I am not noticing any odd noises as @phrunt described.
the key in my mind to making the hip stick work good is to get it to the correct length on the main rod, to long as I had mine it just feels really awkward to use, and to short it most likely would not work as it is supposed to, I had to cut mine a couple of times before I finally got it to where it felt correct for me, and was actually a pleasure to use, I have not been in the field with it yet, all my testing was out in my yard just trying to get it adjusted to the proper length, once I got that figured out I could tell that it was going to remove even more weight off the detector and pressure off my lower back.
I would think, the appropriate length would be about 1 inch give or take right at the "D" ring on the harness. Too high it's going to poke you in the face. You want it short enough to take the weight of the detector and transfer it to your waist without it pulling on the "D" ring down and transferring the weight to the shoulder strap.
When I was playing with the Hip Stick years ago, it actually felt most comfortable when I moved the Hip Stick back on my waist a bit so from the side view it would have about a 20 degree angle tilted forward. sort of like this angle / then the bungee going to the detector from the Hip Stick would be about this angle \. So the weight distribution is not straight down, its more down and back.
I like your idea of the bolt into the bottom of the socket. But I would make the hole in the socket larger than the bolt, but not as big as the head of the bolt or use a washer. Then don't screw it in all the way. That allows the ball to wiggle in the socket and have more play, but it won't come out of the socket.
One of the other issues I had with the Hip Stick is that it was not infinitely adjustable. It needs to be telescoping so you can putz around with it until the length feels comfortable.
Doc -
5 hours ago, DSMITH said:
I will agree with what phrunt stated, I just put one of these Hip Sticks together, it took longer to get the parts needed due to how slow shipping is than it took me to put it all together finally yesterday I was able to complete my hip stick
Below is a photo of the Hip Stick I put together yesterday, it took longer for the Gorilla Glue to set up than it took to put the whole thing together LOL
I'd say that's a darn good effort.
The thing I always found a bit wanky about the Hip Stick was the fact the ball would not stay in the socket. Sort of like us old people and our joint problems. The only movement I would contemplate you would need would be forward and back. So I'm wondering what would it hurt to anchor that ball in the socket with a small nut and bolt from the back to the front through the back of the socket and through the ball, and use thread lock on it. You would not need the little tie down bungee. The ball would be locked in the socket, and it would pivot front and back. Just thinking out loud.
Doc
Doc -
SOLD OUT no international shipments I have nothing left. Trying to work out sizes. First come first serve, I'm limiting numbers for each so everyone gets at least 1.
Doc -
7 hours ago, Swegin said:
Did you find the Necklace in there also? 😀
LOL, as a matter of fact, yes I did. I found several of them. You'll laugh when you see what they really are.
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SOLD OUT!
OK so now everyone is clamoring for the Hip Stick.
So I looked around the warehouse and low and behold what did I find?
I have to clean them up, they are sort of dusty, and repackage them. One long one is already sold. But these are the originals purchased from Chris.
This is my modus operandi. Someone introduces something to the market, I buy a quantity of them to support their business, then I put it on the shelf and forget I bought them.So these are first edition Vintage Hip Sticks, they probably should be donated to the non-existent Museum of Detecting Accessories 😆
$39.95 plus s&h First come first serve. Message me.
Doc
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40 minutes ago, Doc Bach said:
The selling point for me on the knee pros that you sell is that they never slip and stay where they belong Always!Every other brand that I have used over many decades for construction work detecting and bottle digging have driven me batshit crazy because I was constantly having to fight the slippage. The hunting pants that I pictured in my previous post are very adequate for most of my endeavors but in some cases more protection is warranted hence my purchase of the hard-shells.
You're absolutely spot on. The Knee Pro's never move. I think it's because they are jointed?? So that is my number one reason for loving them. They are no hassle, very comfortable and you put them on and forget about them. The second thing I love is that they come up high in front of your knee so when you are kneeling down digging in the dirt the upper part of the jointed plastic keeps dirt from jumping over the top of the knee pad and getting between the padding and your knee.
Doc
Knee Pads - Doc endorsed! "Best Knee Pads I have ever used!" - Doc's Place (docsdetecting.com)
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1 hour ago, CalReg said:
I have used gel knee pads that I bought off of Amazon (I think the brand is NoCry). Cost me about $25. I only use one for my left knee and it has served me well for over 3 years. Definitely keeps the knee protected and the gel padding is surprisingly comfortable and can definitely extend your hunting time! Whatever brand you decide on, I highly recommend you get one!
I have used almost every knee pad Home Depot carries including the gel knee pad. For me, the Knee Pro hard shell beat them all.
Literally every knee pad I have used except Knee Pro binds me in the back of the knee. I will say this regardless of what knee pads you use or like make sure they have a hard exterior. I fell wearing the Knee Pros and my knee came down on the sharp edge of a quartz boulder, and the gash it put in those plastic knee coverings could have been my knee, and it would have been really bad.
So remember these things we wear are not just comfort items they are safety items too.
Doc -
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I hate to say I told you so, but I don't have to; DSmith you pretty much said it all. Thank you for the review.
Doc -
42 minutes ago, Kostas 13 said:
the only problem will be if you use a battery from a camcorder like this, you will lose the amplifier built into the original.
Not if you are using my system. You will have more volume than you can use.
In fact, you can take your headphones off turn the volume up and still clearly hear what is going on. With headphones you have to adjust volume to about 20% on the Gold Screamer it's just way too loud at full power.
Doc -
Phrunt,
I was the first company to come out with a Lithium Ion solution as far back as the SD2100 early 1990's. And it's amplified!
I have sold thousands of these systems.
It's called the Gold Screamer® Power pack. The major difference is my setup has a built in amplifier that amplifies your sound over 500%! And it comes with a cover with a built in pouch, 2 batteries that are absolute top quality, and we are now including the VidPro Dual SMART battery charger with AC and DC adapters. It is 110 and 220 compatible and we include the Aussie adapter plug, just make sure you request it.
$469, with optional speaker, $505. Price on additional batteries is now $55. Prices have changed a bit since I did this video,
Gold Screamer® Power Pack Regulator Amplifier Battery System - Doc's Place (docsdetecting.com)
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Phrunt here in the U.S. if you were to buy that little specialized screw and that neat little nut, your cost would be $5 all by itself at a hardware store, it you could find them.
I really appreciate you showing that because I think I may start including them along with the SAGA to give customers another way to connect the SAGA to the detector rod, along with the clip I already provide.
Doc -
Phrunt posted a pretty neat Clip he got from China. It works perfect for your Swing Arm. Especially if you have a Minelab Swing Arm that has no convenient way to store the Swing Arm if you don't want to use it.
I ordered a sample and it has my approval.
So I ordered 550 of them. Price $3.50 plus shipping in the U.S. Unfortunately depending on where you live shipping will probably be more than the clip.
Doc
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On 11/26/2023 at 12:19 PM, DSMITH said:
@Doc do you sell the part that goes on the detector for the Queegle separately, if so can you PM me a price I would like to set up two more detectors so I can use the Queegle on them also, but I do not want to purchase a whole Queegle system for each detector
$9 each plus shipping. Shipping $5 in the U.S.
Message me your address and I will send you a payment link
Doc -
7 hours ago, phrunt said:
You're right Doc, each country having different rules and regulations and shipping costs vary so much, contact you first are the only viable options, Australia is nice and easy though. We saw how easy New Zealand was, very quick shipping, no customs problems and in the end the shipping I paid was really reasonable.
Phrunt, I forgot to thank you for showing that Swing Arm Shaft clip. I got 50 of them. Next iteration of my SAGA shaft clamp I intend to incorporate some elements of that clamp in the design. The rubber elements are great because they make the clamp more resistance to breakage.
However the ability to connect it to the detector shaft needs to be more versatile because it will not fit a lot of the detector shafts out there. I am thinking of a hybrid that uses the strap attachment I have designed with the rubber clamp.
Never know what you are going to find on the Ali site. Some good some bad, but usually the good stuff is priced very reasonably.
Thanks Phrunt.
Doc -
On 11/24/2023 at 8:01 AM, Goldseeker5000 said:
I had bought Doc's guide arm and when I got it and saw it was enormously large where it connects to the shaft, I was thinking why is this made so big a diameter? It would not stay where you attach it and it kept flopping around. I used it two days and called up my dealer and bought the Gpz 7000 guide arm. This was ideal as it stays where you clamp it on and has more flexibility at the joint. You don't have to cut anything down and glue the knob on. The other one was going to be thrown away but I decided to give it away. I don't see the logic in making the universal attachment knuckle so large as to accommodate one detector shaft, that it hinders all other detector shaft mounting functionality. Sorry Doc, I am not trying to slam you at all but the universal joint doesn't work. Perhaps provide two sizes of joints that can be chosen from and make the guide arm length not so long that you have to cut and glue. Also a ball joint would provide more flexibility as well providing the plastic used is higher quality.
Wait until your break your third Minelab guide arm. Because they do break and they break often. The longer rod accommodates folks who are tall. One size does not fit all. I make my products to be durable and to last.
I used the Minelab Swing Arm until I snapped the third one. That is when I decided to develop something new, something different that actually guided the coil. Everyone has their favorite accessory, and I'm happy you found something that works for you.By the way I might mention if you want a valuable addition to your Minelab Swing Arm, buy one of those Swing Atm clips Phrunt has pictured, being Minelab does not supply a Swing Arm clip to store their Swing Arm when you are not using it They work wonderfully.
Doc
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On 11/23/2023 at 3:43 PM, Aureous said:
I think you need to edit your website listings then... even small things like Qweegle, Saga and Swingy thingy have this no sales outside USA issue. You'd be losing heaps of 1st time buyers, thinking that you don't sell overseas. Only once I looked the 'details' page on each product, did I see the true picture. Im sure lots of others might be confused and disappointed. Im just trying to help, not annoy. I really like the Swingy Thingy and Qweegle combo. I'll be buying one off you soon. Clever designs...I was thinking along the same line years ago but never did anything about getting something made up. I'm getting an SD2200 modded next year as my big gold and backup unit....think I'll be needing your combo for sure!
All of those things can be purchased on Ebay and shipped internationally. Here's the problem countries in the European Union require you to collect duty before shipping. You have to get a license, then you have to submit the tax to each of these countries. It's an enormous hassle, and I'm not getting involved in it. Australia is fine because I don't have to collect the import duty first.
Ebay is fine because they already have the license and they collect the import duty and submit it to the country.
All of the items on my website can be shipped to Australia, however as I said the shipping will be more. My Australian customers generally contact me tell me what they need I package it up, tell them what the shipping would be. If it meets with their approval I sent them a payment link with the invoice and were all set.
Doc -
38 minutes ago, Gerry in Idaho said:
Doc, The last time I checked my body, I had so many Minelab cuts, bruises and battle scares, I was afraid to look at myself in the mirror 🪞. They Minelab already has our names on the Wall of Flame.. They're waiting to burn 🔥 it.
No worries, I still have my award. The only problem is nobody currently working at Minelab USA even knows about it.
I should have known the writing on the wall when I was presented this extremly rare, prestigious and valuable award at the Banquet. I purchased over 1 million dollars in detectors in 1 fiscal year from 1 manufacturer (Minelab). Kellyco and I were the only ones.
This beauty is my reward. No free truck, no free week in Hawaii, no free TV. Not even a free GPX-5000. Just a piece of glass with my name on it.
That folks is what you get for buying over $1,000,000.00 of Minelab detectors.
laughing all the way to the bank.
Oh well, at least for a while I was pretty well known across the industry. Now, just a more wise senior talking about the good ol days.
It was fun though, you, AZO, Rob, Stu, and a few others. Most aren't even around in the game anymore. Kinda sad to see.
Hey at least it's pretty.
Doc -
9 hours ago, Steve Herschbach said:
No they are not. And I would bet they do not own a facility in China either. They still do some assembly in Australia and Ireland but manufacturing is mainly farmed out to Plexus, a U.S. based company, and manufactured in the Plexus Riverside facility in Penang, Malaysia.
“Since December 2009, the Codan Group’s manufacturing service provider, Plexus Corp, a US company, situated in Penang, Malaysia has been responsible for the majority of Minelab’s worldwide metal detector production. Minelab is proud of its association with its outsource partner in Malaysia. Genuine Minelab metal detectors are exclusively manufactured by Minelab in Australia and by Plexus Corp, USA in the Malaysian facility.”
From http://www.referenceforbusiness.com/history2/68/Plexus-Corporation.html:
“Plexus was incorporated in Wisconsin in 1979 and began operations in 1980. The company was founded by Peter Strandwitz, John Nussbaum, and a group of other entrepreneurs, interested in a venture to design and build computer circuit boards by contract. Located in the eastern Wisconsin city of Neenah, on Lake Winnebago, the new company found the bulk of their early work through contracts with IBM.”
Plexus Corp.
One Plexus Way
Neenah, WI 54956- Public Company
- Incorporated:1979
- Employees:3,150
- Sales:$492.4 million (1999)
- Stock Exchanges:NASDAQ
- Ticker Symbol:PLXS
From https://www.plexus.com/en-us/news/utc-aerospace-systems-recognizes-plexus-with-utc-s:
“NEENAH, WI – December 7, 2017 - Plexus (NASDAQ: PLXS) a global leader in providing design and development, manufacturing, supply chain and aftermarket services, announced today that UTC Aerospace Systems has recognized the Plexus Riverside facility in Penang, Malaysia with UTC Supplier Gold status. UTC Aerospace Systems is one of the world’s largest suppliers of technologically advanced aerospace and defense products.
UTC Supplier Gold status program recognizes suppliers for world-class, integrated supply chain performance. To achieve Supplier Gold status, suppliers must achieve zero escapes (quality rejections), 100% on-time delivery, overall customer satisfaction and a score greater than or equal to 80% on a supplier health assessment.”Plexus Riverside facility:
This was previously posted on the forum in 2017:
Sorry I stand corrected and you are correct it is a Pelxus manufacturing facility. But I also thought they were making the Codan communication equipment as well long before they also took on Minelab manufacturing? Or have I got my facts screwed up?
Doc -
31 minutes ago, Aureous said:
Mostly that has to do with Detectors that we are not allowed to sell outside the U.S. There are some items that are too cost prohibitive to ship. But I send stuff to Australia every week.
On the GPAA Specials I'm happy to send the merchandise but the shipping cost will be higher.
Doc -
Oh wow. Next time your detecting a wall using the SAGA snap a picture. Thank you.
Doc -
Phrunt I'd love to have some pictures of you detecting a side wall that I could use for advertising. The Minelab Swing Arm is no help for this kind of overhead work. But this is where the SAGA excels.
Doc -
1 minute ago, phrunt said:
You won't be disappointed I'm sure, and if you still want to take even more weight off consider the hip stick, no doubt one day as I age that hip stick I've got stuffed away somewhere in a cupboard may come out and get used as it does do what it claims🙂
The disadvantage of a Hip Stick is it transfers the weight to your belt and pushes your pants down. The disadvantage is solved when you use the Hip Stick in conjunction with an Ultra Swingy Thingy because the Swingy holds your pants up as you have mentioned.
Doc -
33 minutes ago, phrunt said:
Well, this one I can help with as a recent owner of the Saga Swing Arm and Swingy thingy, I love the Saga swing arm, I've used the Minelab swing arm a few times but ended up not bothering with it, but the Saga has a district advantage and that is that it pivots any direction, this is very beneficial if you're swinging in variable terrain. I detect basically 90-degree walls of dug out ground from the old timers and have found nuggets embedded in these walls. I detect very steep ground and I'm moving my detector all over the place and often lifting it up to detect even above my head, and this is the key to the Saga over the original.
The Queegle bungee is much better than the Minelab one, easier to clip/unclip for sure.
The Swingy Thingy is good if your pants tend to expose your crack 🙂 It holds them up, it's more comfortable than the Minelab Pro Swing harness, not near as big, bulky or hot to wear, however it doesn't transfer the weight to your hips like the Pro-Swing does if that is something that matters to you. The weights transferred to your shoulder which is fine for me even with the GPZ and its heavy coils, and with a light detector like the Axiom that would be fine too for you I would think.
The one I really like the most is the Saga Swing arm, it does what a Swing arm should do, I've never been a harness wearer or any of these "weight off accessories" type of person, I found the Hipstick to be a bit weird and felt like a cyborg using it and just thought it was always in the way especially but would consider that type of contraption if I was swinging very large coils in flat open ground although I think I'd work on the design myself and not stick with the original as there are some changes it could benefit from, I'm sure Doc could do a much better version if he didn't mind stepping on peoples toes as he gets custom made parts rather than off the shelf stuff and just assembling it, but it's a product that does the trick and combined with the Swingy Thingy, Saga Swing arm and a Hiipstick your detector would be completely effortless.
See this video on the hipstick if you're not aware of it. Very easy to make your own if it's impossible to get where you are and a bit of googling will help with that. It really does take the weight away as your hips doesn't notice it compared to your shoulders. It's worth buying if you can find it for sale locally somewhere and want a weightless detector.
I've used my GPX 4500, 5000, 6000 and 7000 all without using bungees and contraptions the entire time I've owned them other than wearing the harness sometimes without the bungee so I could use my speakers and SP01 as I just didn't like wearing stuff on me but I can get used to the Swingy Thingy as it's not big bulky and has the pants advantage which has been a bit of an ongoing problem for me 🙂
The inventor of the Hip Stick has routinely bought my Swingy Thingy to package with the Hip Stick. The Swingy Thingy is the perfect fit for use with the hip stick.
Doc
Knee Pads
in Metal Detecting For Coins & Relics
Posted
Those are nice! Good price too.
Doc