kac

Wood floors will have nails or staples which will make detecting tough. Any copper pipes or cast iron pipes will also be a problem.

Just about any of the modern detectors will detect the depth you need but getting past the nails, wires and pipes can be a pain.

Concrete may have rebar depending on age of the house.

No USA sales?

Atrex looks like a good machine for my neck of the woods.

Did you return the half empty corona? Bite the dog that bit ya is a sure cure for a hangover haha

Highly mineralized ground can be noisy. If your machine is chatty use a lower frequency and swing bit slower. Lower frequencies are less responsive to low conductors. Machines can only go just so deep and ground phase effects the range of all ib machines. Just nature of the beast.

Sometimes smaller and narrower coils will do better in sniffing out targets as they will be generally less noisy.

As for iron infested grounds that contain bits of rust from processed iron like old nails, sheet metal bits etc the best option for me has been an analog with concentric coil. Some the old tesoros can be picked up cheap and that is the type of hunting they really shine.

Very cool pocket watch, I just found one the other day in a ball field.

Bottom center piece of brass looks like remnants to a hurricane lamp?

Permission hunts are fun, good chance to find something that has a bit of history or story behind it.

12 hours ago, LRM said:

Does not sound like it will help anyone here but the connector for the Gold Bug 2 coils is a Switchcraft SL405MX which will run you about $15 from any electronics part retailer.

See if you can pick some brains over at Geotech. Maybe someone there might know the specs for the coils and pinouts.

As for wet sand an eliptical dd may serve you better and be more stable than a round dd.

I use my Gold Racer at the beach and just manually ground balance it. I use it for the towel lines and cuts as the really wet sand here is all wash.

Many of the modern machines have circuits in the coil so it would be impossible to build a coil for those without the specs and schematics on them. Other issue is finding the cable connectors as some are proprietary.

You will need to reverse engineer coils that you can get connectors for to figure out what is the Tx and Rx pinouts and the ohms and impedance of them.

As Pimento mentioned Geotech forum may be able to help.

Target id differences between frequencies means the scales are not normalized (mapped to one frequency). Not necessarily a bad thing but can mess up your tone breaks.

Can you do custom setting saves per frequency?

Similarly the Multi Kruzer/Anfibio have both normalized and standard scaling  but no custom saves so I end up using normalized to preserve my breaks between frequencies.

Discrimination on it reminds me much lile my Tejon but better audio.

That is a non motion machine right? Is it FCC compliant? Scares me to dish out some big bucks and have some schmuck in Customs keep it.

Very cool

Possibly key chain for Omni Parker Hotel

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Omni_Parker_House

Cool find.

When you say jumpy, that can be a good thing, it could mean the machine is not locking on targets too aggressively. Once your onto a target try to isolate it and tighten up your passes over it. Also hit it in different angles.

I do quite a bit of hunting with a Gold Racer that doesn't lock onto targets and this can be helpful when sniffing out targets that are mixed. I often find coin spills, pocket knives, even found an old silver plated whip handle that had an iron screw through it.

Nice token.

Looks like silver plated. Very early dinnerware were usually pewter. Much of silver pated items were later 1800's -1900's

Leaded pewter was pre 1770's and usually softer and very dull looking.

You try looking up the makers mark?

I don't prospect but do get to remote areas with mine. Got a Soul made out of AZ. Top not quality and though most the e bikes use same components it comes down to support. If you call the factory you get someone in the USA that actually works at the factory!!!!! Many companies have a shell outfit and everything is off-shored.

Hauling stuff I heard mid drives are better and act more like regular bikes. Hub drive is what I have with 1000w peak. Going through woods most the time I'm on lowest power setting.

Consider front suspension so you can put saddle bag rack on the back. Bikes with full suspension will limit your options for bags, racks and even trailers. Long rides consider a backup battery. Fat tire ebikes are not fun to ride with a dead battery, one hell of a work out without that assist.

Most bikes ship at class 2, if you have access code to the control box you can fiddle with settings and make it a class3. I set my speed limit back to 35mph as my legs can't peddle much faster.

Might be older, civ war buttons I found have all been 2 piece.

I had an RTG galvanized scoop and it broke down. Salt does a number on galvanized once that finish is worn down. Probably would have lasted much longer if I rinsed the scoop off after.

Had a really large traditional scoop I would use with my pi because I can't pinpoint well with that so scooping half the beach in one shot helps lol

This one is stainless, I like the brace on bottom and on top. Welds on it are excellent and being stainless I don't think it will have any issues.

I initially tested on a perfboard and it worked but to keep noise down I found putting on a small pcb worked best. Case was to hold it all together and keeps the coil stable.

Ace Apex in the sf modes 5-20 khz and mf mode pics. Quick test i did yesterday.  Sorry too lazy to hook scope to the computer or look for a thumb drive lol

On 5/3/2023 at 12:30 AM, Cascade Steven said:

Kac:

thanks for the additional info.   Maybe I missed it, but I have a question on the diodes: do you have a part number such as 1N???  Thanks.

I don't have a part # on diodes, I robbed them from another board. All that was build with spar parts I had with exception of housing  and blank pcb I snagged off of amazon. Used silicone transfer paper that works on a laser printer. I highly suggest using manual feed on printer and tapeing a 3-4" regular paper leader to the lead edge with masking tape.

16 hours ago, Geotech said:

What is the battery for? Are you using this to measure TX waveform signals?

Yes.

10 hours ago, Skyshark said:

How do you find the mesh strength? Can you bend it by pushing on it?

Rock solid, can't bend wires with fingers at all. Has a brace and rim so you can push with your foot. took it to the beach other day and it worked really well. On the heavy side but very well balanced and comfortable.

In the surf it could be tricky if you don't pin point well but I got this as I like the basket scoops for beach combing. I also like the smaller scoop for lakes and rivers especially ones with small rocks and gravel. The smaller lip makes it easier to work rocks out of the way.

1 hour ago, Joe D. said:

   Oh forget it then, unless you throw in a free scope too!!😠😂👍👍

Well you really don't need a scope or battery for that matter, just won't be able to see the frequency or run 🙂

Anyways here are the cad files for the coil frame and housing. Anyone making one will need to drill a hole for what ever switch they choose. I also moved the post away a bit so 9v battery wasn't so tight inside.

Units are done in mm, bottom and coil frame can be printed flat, top should be printed with supports on inside that you will need to remove later. This keeps the surface finish a little better for fdm printers.

freq sens housing.zip

Yes you need a scope.

Here is the circuit and pdf to etch. Single sided copper on bottom.

Freq Sensor.pdf

Came across a small circuit for relaying the frequency of a coil to a computer using a microphone jack and some software. I have a scope which will do the same thing but has to be hard wired to the coil or control board of the detector. What I liked about the circuit is it didn't need to be wired to the scope but the scope doesn't supply power to a circuit so I added a battery and then a couple leads to hook to the scope. I printed the little coil on my fdm printer and wound the coil on it.

Layed out the part in pcb software and printed the circuit on some silicone transfer paper then transferred and etched my own pcb. Soldered in the parts and tested it. Lastly I was happy how accurate it was with just a small 2hz when powered on which could be the capacitor tolerance.

What also is pretty cool is I can move the sensor away from the coil and physically measure the signal drop off. Surprisingly the signal will drop off pretty sharp. This is doesn't necessarily tell you how deep a detector will report an object it senses, just how far the coil goes.

On my Multi Kruzer it showed the Superfly coil being a little out of frequency as the frequency was high which means I probably have a bad connection in the cable. The other coils tested fine and between 5,14, and 19khz there was little difference in range.

On the Tejon I tested stock coil that came in spot on 17.5khz but the Cors Shrew came in at 16khz not that it matters that much on that machine.

Apex was interesting. The Ultimate 9" was 12" and the Reaper 10x14 coil was 14", only 2" more. Now between frequencies and modes. The 20khz was the most followed by MF and MF and range dropped down as frequency was dropped in single freq modes.

If I get my hands on a Nox and Legend would like to test those just for kicks.

Anyways whole purpose was to make a little test device so I can keep working on my coils and test coils that maybe faulty. Just enjoying other aspects of the hobby. Enjoy!

Thats a really good hunt, love the lock.