kac

You may want to snag a book by Chris Ralph called Fists Full of Gold on Amazon. Well worth a read and should be very useful. I snagged a copy and about halfway through and find it incredibly informative beyond what I plan to do.

So both triggers do the same thing? Just lefty and righty? Be cool if they came out with a similar concentric coil like Tesoro had, I think that small Rx is killer in trashy areas and hard to beat. Did they work a deal so Blisstool is no longer sold in the USA directly? For anyone reading the posts on the Vista X and only have a VDI machine may really like the machine. Analog machine really sharpened my skills hunting as you need to have a consistent swing to determine target size and type. Still amazes me that I know what a dime sounds like and a penny etc. and have a good degree of certainty of how deep. There are many targets I would have skipped if I relied on numbers and don't necessarily dig any more or less trash than I do with a VDI. Thanks for sharing the video Keith

Anyone know if the 2 toggle switches do the same thing? Tejon uses single 3 way switch like a trigger. Middle is disc 1, push is disc 2 and pull is pin point.

It is the latest analog detector from Deeptech that has dual discrimination circuit similar to Tesoro Tejon. Looks like a pretty sweet machine for those that like analog machines like myself. Adjustable Iron Audio is something I wish my Tejon had. Looks to have a bit better depth too.

Those are pretty impressive tests for depth, seem to be bit deeper than my Tejon. I actually rely on the signal not cutting too clean, I use the scratchy or marginal signal when identifying targets. As an example if I put my alternate disc to pull tab I can often tell if a square tab is there especially if they are flat as they will have a subtle broken signal. Another example is if I set the discrim to middle dead on nickel and it is scratchy it is a nickel or in lucky cases a gold ring or ear ring. Bottom of nickel mark is almost always a beaver tail and top of nickel is almost always a smaller square tab. Over all how do you like the machine in the field?

With the coil on and fresh batteries, does it still do that with threshold all the way down and sensitivity down? I never try a machine without a coil, I heard it could damage a machine. Not sure if that is true or not or specific to digital machines but never took the chance. People are selling lobo boards (remakes) online. I had seen a fully assembled board for around $39.

Here is an uncirculated 43. No artifact on the die near bottom left back, letters are flat, talons are above the log. I brought this to the forms for others opinions because I thought it looked odd. The more I looked the more discrepancies I saw. If I didn't post the link to a particular seller then would your opinion change? People seem to be stuck on how many sales someone has made and a sellers rating over the images and points I had in question. I regret putting a direct link to one of these sellers as it created some bias on peoples opinions. Lastly if you think about it, lower more common coins that are not typically rated could be easier to pass off to unsuspecting buyers as they are filling their collections rather than high ticket items that people pay for ratings on. Who would pay $20-$50 for a rating on a coin worth less than that? My guess is I may have stumbled on something much more wide spread and probably extends across many other coins of different years. Only real way to confirm is to get a hold of one of the coins or if someone has bought one

The area around the talons on the real coin are not recessed as they are carved below the log surface on the suspect coin. Back is the same die on several years on suspect coins. Lastly the real quarter has sharp edges where the text meets the base as it is milled that way. Suspect coin has soft blended edges as you would see from a model or point cloud converted in a voxel program such as 3dCoat. I know this because I uses that software occasionally.

Maybe you didn't read but I am not accusing anyone and in fact the images posted are the same coin or coin with same oddities sold by another ebay seller and not the one I posted a link to. In the case of these silver "uncirculated" quarters of various years have the same backs and same errors. I don't believe the mint would use the same die over several years as they wear down and make new ones along with fronts at the same time. My point is to show so people don't get ripped off, that's all.

Doing a bit more research there are several years using the same backs as the one I had in question and sold by different dealers. To be fair and trying not to make direct accusations of any of the sellers and to make clear my intentions is more of a heads up to anyone considering buying to do some careful looking first. I took better pictures of the 43 quarter I found and have the original images found on ebay so others can compare. Take a look at the feet on the back. Original the feet go above the log, ebay one the feet are deeply carved into the log. Another really suspicious artifact is there is a raised line on the bottom left background behind the text on the back that can only be created if it is in the die itself.

I wasn't accusing a particular seller, I was using the images posted on that one as an example because of the anomalies I saw. The 1943 I have that has been sitting in the dirt for maybe 50 years is in better shape than the one indicated on that listing. There are other sellers with the same year uncirculated quarter with same sunken date and bulging wreath. Further down in the listing there are some that you can tell are legit because the base is even and does not vary in thickness. It wouldn't surprise me if these guys don't know. I can't imagine how many coins the sell and go through.

Seller feedback really doesn't mean much these days. Aside from that what I spotted on that quarter in particular is there a few with the same artifacts and oddities especially for being uncirculated. Background should be much cleaner, backs show a brushed surface. The 1943 is worn down. The base surface around the wreath is raised. When coins are made they use a flat piece of clay then add the details on top which means the base surface should be the same. The head is lacking detail in the hair and looks filled in. This is common with 3d scans where point clouds are converted to polygons. 3d scans will also average a surface causing it loose some depth where there is a lot of detail as it appears around the wreath. Lastly for uncirculated it appears to have some scratches. I wouldn't trust that piece personally If you look through there are probably tons more counterfeits, I just happen to notice these as I was comparing it to one I have. I am not accusing that seller as knowingly selling counterfeits as I doubt they are striking them in their basement. Their source probably is importing the junk in and selling all over. Just looks way to suspicious sorry.

Sometimes I do a quick search on old coins I find on ebay for quickie reference on what people are selling them for and think I found a counterfeit ring going on. See back of this quarter for example: You will notice where there is detail it is raised more which leads me to believe that it was created from a 3d scan. I say that because typically 3d scanner will not have enough resolution no matter how good and will average the heights when details are too close and small causing a puffiness in that area. A coin back then was done from a large master and milled on a pantograph milling machine. Now coins dies are made from edm (electrical discharge machining) where a graphite master is burned into the die then it's polished. Anyways the prices on them are ridiculously low and there seems to be a lot of subtle oddities that make me suspicious. The example I showed a real 1943 silver in half descent condition would be around $20-$30 and not $0.99. Who do I contact on that? Does ebay care? Anyways buyer beware on that.

Thanks for the tip Chase, cool site he has. His prices are pretty fair actually since the printing seems to be on an fdm (MakerBot) type printer which tend to be fairly slow. Those printers make very durable parts. Alternatively an SLS might be better and quicker but come with a heavier price tag so the part price is probably much more. I personally use an SLA (resin based printer) but the parts are more suitable for masters that I use for mold making as they are not that durable for any extended use.

Did better than a buddy of mine who hit some old ground and found his glasses he lost last year!