cjc

15 hours ago, Argyris said:

Hi everyone, glad to find this wonderfull forum 🙂 This is my first message here so I'll make my intro with an Equinox 800-newbee question:

I must state that I have very limited field time and experience with my brand new Nox 800...and only used it in a local beach since now (dry part) to learn it some. But, my first observation is that even in Beach 1 mode (which is a low weighted multi freq mode) I'm getting super tiny targets, usually tiny micro bits of aluminum or lead. I know that for many this is an advantage in order to hit micro gold jewelry and such on the beach...but sometimes it gets really frustrating and time consuming to chase super tiny bits of metal that my PI pinpointer struggles to hit. Trully, I wasn't prepared for such a sensitivity (which is good for the Nox) but isn't always what I need in trashy sites when I'm playing the odds some and focus only in rings or coins.

So, my understanding based on the above initial beach experience is that, if Beach 1 is so sensitive to tiny staff, then Park 1 (which is also low weighted but not that low weighted as beach 1) should be even more sensitive to tiny micro sized targets. These targets even they are so tiny, they still register VDI >5 cause they usually are micro bits of melted aluminum (nuggets), tiny can slaw or tiny lead, so rejecting 0-5 vdis doesn't get rid of them like it does with small foil.

Now...I'm asking this having inland hunting in the back of my mind also: when hunting in old farm fields with lots of such aluminum/lead tiny pieces, I was used to run in 8 khz with my old Deus to get rid of such tiny targets and still be able to hit high conductive coins or decent sized hammered coins and other decent sized low conductors, gold/silver jewelry etc. My first Nox experience shows that even if I use park 1 mode in these farm fields, I'll still hit hard on these tiny junk pieces even if i notch 0-5 vdis....so I was thinking to maybe use Park 1 in single freq @5 or 10 khz in such cases, and go after all small or decent size coins & rings, but not the super tiny 1-5 mm diameter junk...My understanding, however, is that with single freq I'll lose the advantage of VDI stability in depth that multi offers.....and maybee will have up-averaging vdi issues..... What are your thoughts on this?

Take as a fact that, time efficient wise, both when inland hunting or beach hunting, I want to focus only in gold/silver rings and small to decent size coins, but eliminate all tiny 1-5mm micro staff (even if I lose a gold chain/earring on the beach or a really tiny hammered coin on the field)...With the Deus @8khz this strategy was working pretty good and I was able to hit even small thin silver 10mm hammered coins...but not the 1-5mm junk....what about the Nox, what would you propose?

ps. Below, a sample of these tiny aluminum bits...they read at 12-15 vdi range so unfortunatelly I can's avoid them through notching cause I'll lose the gold also.

So I need a strategy that eliminates by size (tiny ones) and not by conductivity!

Best,

Argyris

 

 

I'll say this:  for sure you have a very sensitive detector.  Many are not used to this level of small object sensitivity and struggle to focus on worthwhile targets.  I would suggest that you undertake some serious bench testing.  This takes time.  Get yourself  a standard sized tester--a ring or coin and put it on an upside down cardboard box.  Test with the coil at various distances.  This "hand to ear to eye" recognition is a critical skill and no setting change will stand it for it.  Use the cross-sweep to get a feel for how solid and consistent something is.  With practice these micro conductors will become less of a problem.  When you want tiny targets--instead of just reducing the detector's response--you will be able to be alerted to the best, most solid ones.   Learn to correlate signal strength, target size, loudness, and the depth reading--this is where the information you want can be found.  There aren't really any shortcuts.  Too many on FB and some of the  forums want to try and make a "science" of having no basic skills--almost random digging.  It can't be done.   Looking for "sets" of target characteristics in exactly this way is the key to becoming an accurate and effective hunter.  Take your time and learn your basics--this kind of awareness will come.  Walk first--it will make you a better runner down the line.  Good Luck, clive

These newest two updates add a lot to the Simplex's already great performance. The new Park 1 one mode was awesome--very clean audio that gave a nice centered high tone on coins. Kind of reminded me of the Anfibio in how it brought up the round, solid objects really well. Actually had to turn down the Gain but the machine was still getting nice depth. I was working with a pinpointer and used the Mute feature several times to prevent any sounding off. My favorite set of phones were actually too loud on the higher Volume settings settled on "H2". By checking my targets on the cross sweep and in pinpoint for size I was able to dig mostly coins including this '35 King George the 5th cent. This is an amazing detector--and not just "for the price."  It has a lot of punch, great audio and the features to make for pro-level versatility. Can't wait to see how this machine does in the salt water. Great job, Notka Makro!

7 hours ago, Denny said:

I hate those modelo foil covered bottle caps they fool me everytime.

ya those are unusual.  I see Heineken as the "median" cap--lots of aluminum in them they are half ferrous and half non ferrous. When those alert you--you are being pretty thorough.

cjc

I see way too many new hunters who hope to find some gold but think it’s the first thing they are going to find..sorry bad news–its not   In most conditions, random digging is not going to do much for you.  While its good to dig a lot of targets, the key is to continually work on your selectivity.  By all means the way to get used to the target sounds of your detector is to to dig but along with this learning over time it’s important to be able to recognize some various basic target types.  In the picture we have a nice array:  too big–(cigarette pack), elongated: (Allan keys, glasses arm and bobby pins). too small and weak: (some of the smaller foils at left),, alloys (caps).  Not shown here are some iron targets–(bolts, that type of thing).  With practice these are all recognizable targets–they have “problems” either on the meter or when checked on the cross sweep or in pinpoint. “There are also several “good” targets–a few coins, and some of the more solid foil pieces.  While it might not be as exciting as getting out and digging–just getting a few of each target type and testing them on an upside down cardboard box can increase your accuracy a lot.   While there are sites where “inclusive digging” is the way to go–remember–an exception does not make a rule.  Learning how good targets respond is a more productive way to learn than “going begging” with weak, elongated or out-sized signals.   The “iffy” ones can come later.  clivesgoldpage.com

Thanks for your great, thorough article, Steve.  Really filled in a lot of gaps in my history files.   This kind of theory is important to know so that people don't expect too much from any single platform.   They all do different things well.  Lets hope you are right about the 
do all" models to come.  cjc

On 3/23/2020 at 10:36 PM, Redneck said:

I bought a set of pelso's from the maker also. Excellent sound and volume!, at an excellent price.

Your book on the anfibio is awesome.!

Thanks Redneck.  Turns out you DO know your....Sorry--

Ya those are great phones perfect impedance match--they make a great detector near perfect--especially in the iron way fewer spike digs.

Glad you are enjoying the book.  Kind Regards clive

Just got a set of these shipped in 3 days from Hungary.  Perfect impedance match for the N/M detectors--incredible sound.  Very clean and sharp --brings my accuracy up a lot.  They are so loud they need to be run at 8.  I worked with the manufaturer to improve his strain relief system (see the Heyco)--very nice set of phones for these machines.  

cjc   

2/ The Anfibio’s Strengths: Audio
Every Nokta / Makro detector I try seems to have better, cleaner, more informative audio than the last.  The Anfibio is also what would be termed a “high bias” detector in that when you learn to listen for extension in the response--you can become very accurate.  This sharp, clean audio lets you hear a real lot of detail about what is under the coil.  There are several U.K. “YouTube” videos out of hunters placing nails right on top of coins and still being able to detect the coin with the Anfibio.  This is a great demo of just what this machine’s fast processing speed and high-bias performance can do for your find count at old sites.   
I credit the operating characteristics of Nokta /Makro detectors with teaching me how to effectively use coil control target testing.  This has found me a lot of deep gold and silver. With the speed and “clean” metal bias of a machine like the Anfibio  this testing is much more effective--that is, when you use the coil to check a signal by going to the “cross-sweep”--iron and other corroded targets don’t “stay in.”  Misshapen objects like scrap lead or “can slaw” are also more likely to give a broken tone.  Again, good, non-ferrous responses have “extension.”  What I learned was that there’s a whole other level of skill building, accuracy and effectiveness available to you with this clean audio and super-fast signal processing.  
Other strengths of this detector include a great display that lets you make fast adjustments for more exact tuning or “ID-ing”  This also lets you jump from mode to mode instantly to cross check responses.  You can move between different frequencies (5, 14 and 20 kHz), audio modes, and recovery speeds in an instant.  There’s also a versatile Discriminate package that lets you manage your target selection with accuracy. 
This also a very deep and powerful detector with great small object sensitivity. The reason for this is because the Anfibio features high Gain circuitry.  Gain acts to sample a tiny part of the returning signal and amplify it.  This small sample is easier to manage in software and more of the distortion can be removed.  So you have a cleaner, deeper signal.  This means that small targets are amplified (or boosted) as they are received.   Like many detector features--this is a “two-edged sword.”  While small and deep responses are brought up to where there can be heard, other non-so good signals that are just across the “line” into the iron range are also amplified and may be “pulled up” to mimic good signals.   For the beginner, this can be confusing as iron targets and even a few foils and crown caps are “hopped up” and may indicate as coins.   However, the good news is that once you learn a few simple basic “fixes,” the downside of this tradeoff about disappears and this extra deep object punch becomes your best weapon.   This takes practice, bench testing and time in the field.  You could call the Anfibio a “Gain heavy” detector in that even at the presets-there will be good sounding false signals--from spikes, deep iron and some bottlecaps.  As will be detailed further on--a good beginner strategy is just to “turn it down” and do some familiarization in 2 Tone audio mode.  Even running at a Gain setting of “55” or “60” is a not a bad idea.  This simplified less “amped up” audio will respond to these falses in more recognizable ways.  An intermediate stage is to have one search mode with preset or higher Gain and a second weaker setting--to see how signals respond with less Gain.  Going between the two is a great way to really get a feel for how Gain goes deeper--but at the same time brings with it considerable distortion.  Targets sound fuller and better at high Gain settings. Where you see a response disappearing completely --or becoming broken in the low “checker” mode--suspect iron.  Where a target just becomes weaker--this has a better chance of being a good, non-ferrous target. 
Gain also acts to “fill out” small responses--making them sound bigger, fuller and better.   This makes for what I’ve heard termed a “steep learning curve” for the novice as there is the urge to go after a lot of sounds that are too small to be good targets.  What helps is to gather more information than just “meter and tone” using the coil and the Pinpoint control.   This lets you place your signals in context--to focus on the size, shape and location in the strata of each signal.  When you learn to do this--each signal feature acts to confirm the others--giving your accuracy and conclusiveness a huge boost.  For example there is nothing better than hearing a high silver tone, seeing a “92” on the meter and then getting the confirming narrow Pinpoint response that indicates a non-ferrous object.   I call this the “In Keeping” method. (More on this later).  
Another effect of high Gain circuitry is that the detector is more likely to sound off on unusual variations in the ground.  These can be patches of black sand or anything that represents a big change.  So the ends of spikes, twisted wire or aluminum shards can all “sound off” on your first coil pass.  This is where
Another great thing about the Anfibio is its stability. Where there is not much interference from electrical sources it’s possible to run this detector at almost coil control comes in in that these are not consistent targets and will change or disappear on the cross-sweep or with varied coil passes.   Where there is not much interference from electrical sources it’s possible to run this detector at almost full Gain.full Gain.  However this type of setting has a downside too in terms of the false signals that it brings up.  This is where learning some of the basic skills covered in this book can be of help--letting you mediate this high power with accurate signal type recognition and checking methods.  Even where you do have a lot of interference--it’s possible to run a “balanced” signal so as to be able to hear good targets though the noise.  From:"Successful Treasure Hunting with the Notka / Makro Anfibio Multi Metal Detector. by Clive James Clynick  
Reviews at: clivesgoldpage.com

On 10/31/2019 at 7:24 PM, flakmagnet said:

Hi Clive, I have both your previous books on the Equinox and look forward to reading this one. Thank you for giving us a sampling. Best of luck with it.

Thanks, Flak--came out okay--hope you like it. 

cjc

Totally agree, Monster.  Going from the specific (settings, for example) to the general doesn't work.  To be versatile and have consistent success needs a broad set of skills.  These skills will help you under any conditions--instead of trying make "one size fit all".    When you have some solid complete definitions in hand (modulation, gain, iron bias for example), and basic skills to apply these features any set of conditions will be easier to figure out.  
There's no such thing as "push button detecting"--contrary to what the companies would have us believe. cjc

21 hours ago, Redneck said:

I did not know there was a book on the Anfibio. Ill have to look into it. Thanks

I'm proud to announce my new book on the Anfibio Multi.  Had this detector in at some of the worst most iron infested truck grove sites around last year and did really well--wanted to share some of the things that have worked well for me.   cjc

Successful Treasure Hunting with the Nokta / Makro Anfibio Multi

Clive James Clynick is the author of some 25 detecting “how-to” books and numerous articles.  In this detailed and informative book he shares his 40 years of experience and instructs you on how to become a more accurate and successful treasure hunter with the Notka / Makro Anfibio Multi detector.  Topics include:

·       Getting the Most from the Anfibio’s Selectable Frequencies

·       High Gain Power Basics

·       Dense Iron Methods: Recognizing False Signals.

·       Coil Control Skills and Methods.

·       Deep Silver Coin Hunting.

·       High Power Signal Balancing for Depth and Accuracy.

·       Mode Change Methods.

·       Anfibio Gold Jewelry Hunting Tips and Methods.

…and much more…

18/ Understanding “Below-Zero” Accepts

I take this term from the language used with the first programmable, digital machines that came onto the market in the 1980’s. These set a benchmark for all others since. Part of the reason for this was because although they balanced out mineralization in the ground, they also examined the iron in the ground to see if there were targets mixed in with it. If you can imagine a scale of minus 100 to plus 100 with “0” being the line between non-ferrous and ferrous, these machines used “below zero accepts”. By this I mean that they were pre-set to examine part of this iron range (usually the first “30”increments) instead of just knocking it out. This created much better depth (by the standards of the day). These machines also had the ability to pick targets from amongst this iron--by hearing it too rather than just suppressing it. This is also the Anfibio’s strength--but with much more overall sensitivity. So what you have with the Anfibio is a very sophisticated level of filtering and processing that:

• -first, gathers a full and very detailed picture of what is under the coil.
• -then filters this diverse signal down to sort the (quick-responding) consistent parts from the (slow-responding) less consistent ones.

This broad, detailed initial “look” at the ground means that the detector can separate out small, deep objects as well as those that are in very close to iron very effectively. In effect the Anfibio is “reaching” down into the iron range to give the machine more detecting power. This also means that desirable targets that are coming in partly within this range are more readily detectable.  Things like stainless watches, corroded targets such as long buried brass also respond better than with other machines. The “trade-off “here is that the line between ferrous and non-ferrous is blurred. This is true of all high Gain detectors. Things like round bolts and some of the more solid iron objects can jump up to overwhelm the discriminate circuit. So you have a “two edged sword.”

Where you want to get better responses from low conductors such as gold chains and earrings--you can run a lower discriminate and / or first Tone Break. However, when you do this--more iron, steel (such as bobby-pins), and other weak conductors will respond. Rather than an actual ferrous / non-ferrous line, what you have is more like a “firewall”--and as you bring the Discriminate and first Tone Break up--this “firewall” is made thicker. Learning to manage this “rust line” is a very important skill that will let you select targets with more accuracy and stabilize the unit at high Gain settings.

A low Discriminate / Tone Break setting opens the machine up to more of this “below zero” range. This comes through in the form of “crackle” and other falses. A higher setting creates a bigger reject block between the two (plus and minus) “sides.” Understanding this--and being able to choose a correct setting is the essence of running a balanced signal--distributing the unit’s power evenly and—by standard, quietly. It’s important to recognize the fact that what a detector does is not to just punch down into the ground and alert on metal. Instead--as described above--it acts to separate ground from metal. What this means is that the iron and ground’s responses form part of the signal. A good way to understand this is to think of all metal signals as being a “peak” in the larger ground’s signal.

The more of this low range you want to inhibit (block off)--the fewer targets will be available. (For hunters interested in re-working “hunted out” type sites--opening up this low discriminate range is another option that can be combined with a slow recovery speed (Deep mode) or a faster one (3 Tone) or targeted hunt methods using one of the three Frequency options).

Remember--it’s not depth that obscures targets--it’s the surrounding “noise.” The more of this “noise” you are prepared to learn to “hear though,” the more you will find.

Alternately--creating a wider, more solid bottom reject block can also reduce noise--allowing targets to “jump” though as with the Beach mode’s high Discriminate setting of “15.” This type of setting can be used either to bring the machine’s processing up above the noise level of difficult ground or salt sand, or to reduce the noise of dense iron and bring up masked signals.

From: "Successful Treasure Hunting with the Notka / Makro Anfibio Multi Metal Detector" by Clive James Clynick (Prestige Publishing, 2020

On 12/8/2019 at 1:52 AM, pinpointa said:

Could there be an early book on the horizon?

By who? (lol)....

cjc

My CTX had been in the shop for quite a while–it had the old config and leaked more than once.  One bulkhead, one set of clips and two lithium cells later she was still drinking brine.  Thanks to  Minelab I’ve just gotten a like new machine and am very excited and grateful.  (This must be what it’s like to complete a jihad and be granted a virgin in the afterlife)!  Anyhow,  I do a lot of testing in my  basement in that the interference from furnace, household panel and dryer simulate actual tough salt surf conditions.  If you can tune a detector inside–you are doing something right.   This is especially true of big coils.  I have the large coils for my CTX, Equinox 800 and a WOT hardwired for my Blue Tubes Excal.  There is a ton to be learned about signal balancing big coils under these high interference conditions.  This kind of testing has gotten me a lot of deep, heavy gold in conditions where there is a lot of pro-level competition.   First, its amazing how much of a difference in performance loss (even in air) there is between large and stock coils.  These big coils just suck the interference out of the air (or water).  What I notice is that target sounds have a much more “inverse” .sound–as if the threshold was “taking over.”  The higher you turn the Gain–the quieter targets get.   In some instances–the stock coil actually hits targets further out.  (Talk about a “teachable moment!)”

One thing that’s worked well with the CTX has been to run a P2 version of one of the programs that features one or a couple of reject lines.  (Andy’s Beach for example)  This seems to balance the signal and reduce all the reverberation-type noise.   This works well in the field too–especially of you don’t pile on more interference from current and any incline.  This involves a slow sweep speed and working only North / South.  I’ve gotten some rings down at the 20″ level this way.  The Excalibur–as hard to tune with the WOT coil as it can be–is a simpler platform with less going on–electronically.  While it can’t be run that high–maybe at 1 to 2 o’clock is a balanced signal–it does get great depth in discriminate–taking rings at an easy 18″-plus.  It’s also stable.

Now the Equinox is one of the hardest detectors to tune with a big coil that I’ve used.  My usual 2 Tone method works–but is unstable and gets only moderate depth.  My super-sharp responding gold magnet “Undertune” (GB -9 / tone “25”) method is out of the question.  Without Ground Balancing–the threshold is lilting, uneven and requires careful coil control.  I’ve seen videos of guys running down at “14” Gain–unacceptable.  Why bother with a big coil to run that weak of a signal?  The sense I have is that this detector has a hard time supporting a coil that size.  When I run near-preset B2 with 5 Tones–it seems more balanced and stable. This is about the only time I’ve ever been driven back to the pre-sets to balance a detector.  It’s a good coil–but hard to balance–just saying.  I see a detection signal as being kind of like an arithmetic sum.  When you keep subtracting with say, fast water, Gain too high, (in this case) Recovery Speed too fast, high saline conditions  bottom contours / inclines and the work a detector does with a highly processed signal like that of the CTX or EQ–what’s left is not always enough to get any more depth than the stock coil.  I’m still learning with both of these detectors / coils but am really struggling to get any respectable depth–especially with the EQ.  I’ve a lot of great signal balancing “tricks” up my sleeve–including smoothing out the threshold with a “1” discriminate setting or even bringing up the Tone Break–but have yet to find anything that convinces me that a narrower–more manageable detection field drawing less interference would not perform better.    I’ve also been instructed on the forums to  keep the Recovery Speed low–down at “4” with the big EQ coil. This is just not that stable in salt conditions unless its absolutely still.  Of the two, the CTX wins in terms of stability–but for coils that size–even compared to the WOT–the depth just does not seem to be enough to justify the extra swinging effort–at least not in salt water.  I’m open to Equinox big coil salt water suggestions.  Otherwise–next trip–the coil at least–is staying home.

cjc

Great Run-down, Dan--appreciate your thoroughness.

Regards 

clive

On 11/19/2019 at 7:58 PM, FloridaSon said:

Could you explain exactly how to "use Pinpoint to check for solidity"? From the above excerpt? Thanks

 

Move the coil to one side of the target, trigger--and sweep evenly across.  Try and do this the same every time so that the ratchet does not interfere  with getting a consistent pinpoint.  The signal strength and tone will tell you how solid the target is.  If you want to repeat--begin again to prevent a detuned (getting quieter with each pass) response from throwing you off.

There's more on this in the book.

cjc

Thats true--lot of great stuff but not perfect.  Makes me think of the DFX where you had a Normalization control that gave you exactly that choice --based upon you chosen FQ. 

That low range is a bit of a "dog's breakfast" though if you are a gold hunter.

cjc

I think that the 40 scale acts to limit the amount of incoming information.  It's worth noting that the Anfibio has a "VDI Sensitivity" type control--but lower settings can limit  your ability to spot good targets amongst junk.  "Stacking" is more of a mid range (gold hunter's) problem as well.  cjc

I’ve gotten a lot of questions from hunters (who learn that I have two books out on the Equinox) asking for “settings.”  One guy saw some rings I had found in salt water with the Equinox and asked for my “settings.”   Others describe a type of site they are hunting--“cellar holes” for example and want to know just what “settings” to run.   I can’t answer these questions because what they need is not a “setting” but rather a skill set--a “system” of tuning the detector, (in relation to the specific ground and target matrix), listening to and examining targets with the coil, selecting responses and conducting their overall hunt.  To focus on simple “settings” or the technology of any detector type ignores the fact that there are a whole range of skills needed for success at difficult sites.  Not all involve the detector itself.  The real skill lies in understanding and managing the interactions.  A good maxim is that:

“…predetermined settings only get you into the ball park—it’s up to you to find the best seat…”

The ideas is to learn to recognise what the conditions demand and apply your machine’s strengths based upon basic skills--not hope it will take the place of them.  

What I advocate is a broad-based approach to learning and detecting.  This is kind of like the Equinox itself--just as a multi-frequency signal gathers more information to be analysed, examining your signals from a wide range of standpoints lets you learn and develop a broader knowledge base--faster.  Then, as you encounter problem targets or sets of conditions which are new--you have the general skills to adapt.  Part of the misinformation about the Equinox comes from those who have had success under highly specific conditions--many in situations where not a lot of skill was needed--flat out “hear and dig” in stable inland conditions.  While there are sets of conditions where this is the only way to operate--it’s a narrow mindset.    Why buy a detector that has the versatility of the Equinox and not develop the kinds of skills that will let you get the most from it?

From” “Skill Building with the Minelab Equinox Series Metal Detectors” by Clive James Clynick (Prestige Publishing, 2019)

Good call, John.  When I get a machine I try and read everything out there from the "expert" stuff to what the guy on his first day has noticed...Thanks for your interest in the new one.  

Kind Regards 

clive

Anyone in North America able to work on an Aquasearch?  Kind of blares after coming off a target.  I've gotten different opinions on the problem--all above my electronics hat size (a "2").

cjc 

Ya Im guessing that all inclusive booze may have played a role--probably didn't get both sides of the clasp through  the loop properly.  I do think of the person who lost a big item like that but doesn't mean I'm going door to door with it.  Did a bounty for a couples (his) wedding band the next day--maybe pay the karmic debt...

It had been down a long time came out super orange.

Thanks for the info about the signature. 

Regards 

clive