cjc

No but Im having one made by one or the Eastern European buddies. The one Eric made has intermitancy inside the shell--terrible. .Super lucky to find someone who has the specs and wherewithall. clive

Even easier. take out the battery. then place the screen end in a deep bowl of water. then place your mouth over the bottom of the handle and blow. if there are bubbles coming out--you have a problem. Regards clive

I like them while they worked but I returned them once after about a year, then they went again after about another year, this time the speaker--done. They are in the pile now lol... c

Skill-Building with the Minelab Equinox Series Metal Detectors Readers Write... “Clive’s book is a must for users of the Equinox. I highly recommend reading this book. Beginners to advanced users will find valuable information in this latest book.” CF “...what Clive has to say about the settings and how they interact with each other and with targets should help take your game to a higher level.” LG, FL “...for a person with just 15 months detecting experience this is Gold. This is what I’ve been looking for to take my understanding of detecting and the Equinox forward.” Thanks Anthony “I consider this book a must and rate it five stars. Learnt so much about my 800. Thanks Clive.” RP AUS “His books will make you a more efficient treasure Hunter. Saves you a ton of time learning the machine.” CD “This is a book you will have to read, practice and maybe even re-read certain areas. There is no fluff in this book. It is all hardcore useful information for the Equinox user.” MK “Excellent Read. Helped me a lot with my 800.” BB Skill-Building with the Minelab Equinox Series Metal Detectors By Clive James Clynick Clive James Clynick is the author of some 24 previous treasure hunting “how-to” books and numerous articles. In this detailed and informative book, he explains how understanding the Equinox’s operating characteristics and features can help you to find more treasure at park, relic and beach sites. Topics include: · Dense Iron Methods and Skill Building · Walk First. How Small Skills Add Up to Accuracy · Managing the Heavily Processed, Modulated Signal · Understanding and Managing the Power Curve · Beyond Meter and Tone · Accuracy and Conclusiveness · Salt Water Stabilization and Depth Tips from Top Hunters · Signal Balancing the Equinox for More Depth · ‘Micro’ Gold and Chain Hunting · Understanding the Upgrades …and much more… (8.5 X 5.5, softbound, 120 pages) $16.95 Ordering and Reviews: http://clivesgoldpage.com/ (Picture shows some of the author’s recent Minelab Equinox Finds).

Dankowski.

These are not bad either. I've dealt with the manufacturer and he uses a special boost circuit. Didn't last that well though--calll em like I see um. cjc

Don't forget the new kid on the block. Louder than the Threshers, great sharp response. I can't take them off now and have sold my 105's. Cheaper than any of them too. Impedance matched to the Manti. cjc

My buddy in Europe has been making and refining headphones for many years and these are his best yet. They combine buzzer (piezo) and speaker in a sealed chamber. They are the loudest, "cleanest" and sharpest sounding phones Ive heard in 45 years of detecting. These phones are impedance matched for the Manticore--they don't even work with the Equinox. They have improved my accuray and increased the number of chains and other small gold Ive found. Ive worked with the manufacturer over the years on small details of his products. (like strain relief) and publish a paper on how to reinforce this product for long wearing, deep water, pro-level (daily) use. I send this information with every set. Having tried these I would never use anything else with my Manticore. The cost is $156 ($6 PP Fee) USD including Purolater 3 day shipping. They take a week to build. Best Regards clive

The Gold Jewelry Hunter’s Handbook: Finding Lost Gold at Beach, Park and Shoreline Metal Detecting Sites By Clive James Clynick Clive James Clynick is the author of 15 previous treasure hunting “how-to” books and numerous articles. In this detailed and informative book he draws upon his 30-plus years of detecting experience to create this unique guide to hunting specifically for gold jewelry with a metal detector at beach, park and shoreline sites. Topics include: • Selecting a Gold-Hunting Detector. • Gold in Your Neighborhood. • Understanding How and Where Gold is Lost. • Recognizing Gold Signals with any Detector. • Accuracy and Skill Building. • Managing Junk by way of Selectivity. • Time Usage and On-site Course Correction. • Understanding Shoreline Grades and Contours. • “Marl Hunting.” • Getting in at the Edge with Waders. • Advanced Beach, Park and Shoreline Site Analysis. …and much more. (100 pages, 8.5 x 5.5) $16.95 Ordering and Reviews: http://clivesgoldpage.com/

Okay I fixed it guys. Rather than try and dig the epoxy out of the surrouding channel or Dremmel the machine side, I took a spare charger and Dremmelled the outside ridge lower. Total relief to see that green light flashing and a good example of how easy it is to go down the "rabbit hole' of incorrect thinking on these repairs. Good thing there was no soldering this machine would be in the garbage lol. I have an elaborate looking bench (pic)--but my terrible secret is that nothing ever happens there... Thanks kindlly for the replies. cjc

Thanks for your reply, Joe. I can see that you have had to lean the minutae of this machine. I will try this cleanup and try to get the charge head seating properley. Best Regards clive

Not a terrible job all in all but I was more concerned about stopping the ingress. I used a Loctite thin "plastic bonder" to close the creack and JW Marine Weld over top. Having had a night to think it over it stands to reason that the tiny (spring loaded) pins on the charge head recess to a certain level and then make contact. So any changes to the flat surface on the machie side or the channell surrounding it will prevent this. Guess most of the Marine epoxy has to come off--and in particular the channel around the outside cannot be obstructed. The Loctite looks very brittle (kind of like when you add baking sode to crazy glue). Hard to believe that it's waterproof thats why the second layer. I do have a Dremmel but as yoy say they are very powerfull. Thanks a lot for your suggestions, Phrunt and Joe. cjc

Having done this repair and tested the machine in water it looks fixed, but now there seems to be a charging problem. Does anyone know what the two metal squares on the NOX charger transmit? In that there's no corresponding metal surface on the machine it does not look like they transmit current. The epoxy covered some of the machine side edges corresponding to those plates--wondering if this is the probem. The four pins seem to be touching the contacts on the machine. Just a hail Mary...it would be a shame to throw out this machine having fixed the leak. Kind of a mystery in that the four pins shold be touching. Did the epoxy cause something beyond a physical short? cjc

Its true--I suppose these days everyone is an "expert' in that it does not take much to hit a few buttons and be operating at a decent level of accuracy and depth. However its when you want to adapt to changing condions that problems arise. When the NOX hit the market it unleashed this army of peole digging every flyspeck (and quarter panel) of (obvious garbage) metal targets that had zero chance of being anything of value. My friend Laurie Gagnon (Relic Dirty Hands) up here in Canada has created an excellent series of videos bringing more detail to the Manti's basic operation. Much more practical and general than these highly selective "expert tips." Calabash also did a great basic skills video for the Manti. What I've always liked about the Nokta manuals is that they take a bit of time to impart some simple basics--the ones that will save the new hunter a ton of useless digging. In anything--wallk first--"expert" later. cjc

True--but if they're going to bother-- these videos should be hours long lol... cjc