cjc

CONNECTING the detector to previous paired ML105.
The headphones will automatically connect with the last-paired device. If connection is successful, the LED on the headphones will flash blue once every 3 seconds.

1. Power on the ML105 Headphones by pressing the Multi-Function Button (MFB) - release the MFB once the Headphones power on as continuing to hold will clear the previous pairing information and start a new Pairing process.
>> the LED on the ML105 should be flashing Blue 3 times every 1 second. This indicates that the Headphones have been previously paired with a device and is looking for that device to connect to it.

If the ML105 Headphone LED is flashing Blue / Red, the Headphones are in Pairing Mode.
There are Two causes of this:
1.a. Multi-Function Button has been pressed too long when powering on.
1.b. The Headphones do not have a previous paired device in memory.

2. Enable Wireless Audio on the detector by short-pressing the Wireless Button on the side of the detector. A short-press is approximately less than 1 second.
>> the Wireless Icon on the detector will flash approximately once every second. This indicates that a previous pairing has been performed and the detector is seeking to establish a connection with the device.

If the Wireless Icon on the detector is flashing rapidly (approximately three times every one second), the Detector is in Pairing Mode.
There are Two causes of this:
2.a. Detector Wireless Button has been pressed too long (2 seconds or longer).
2.b. The detector does not have a previous paired device in memory.

If you are encountering 1.b or 2.b above and have not attempted to pair your detector or headphones to any other devices since the last time used, please let us know as it may indicate something we need to investigate further.

Other Notes:
Connection is only possible with ONE previously Paired device at a time.
MANTICORE will only attempt to Connect to the LAST connected device.
ML105 will only attempt to Connect to the LAST connected device.

In other words:
If you Pair the detector with set of Headphones A and then Pair the detector to another set of Headphones B, the connection information of Headphones A is forgotten by the detector and the detector will only look for Headphones B to Connect with.

If you Pair the Headphones with Detector A and then Pair the Headphones with another Detector B, the connection information of Detector A is forgotten by the ML105 Headphones and the Headphones will only look for Detector B to Connect with.

ML105 Led Status
+ Alternating Blue / Red = Pairing mode
+ Flash Blue 1 time every 3 seconds = Connected
+ Flash Blue 3 times every 1 second = Not connected
+ Solid Red = Charging

Detector Wireless Icon Status
+ Rapid flashing (3 times per second) = Detector is attempting to PAIR.
+ Solid on = Detector is connected to wireless headphones (accompanied by the Headphones icon being solid).
+ Slow flashing (one time per second) = The detector is attempting to re-connect with previously-paired wireless headphones.
 

3 hours ago, Airtemisa said:

Nice beauty!

Was it very old? I mean, the year.

na, not that old, but deep though--Toms settings are no joke...

cjc

It's 18k, 4.4 gr.  Running Toms settings with a litte disc added to smooth it out.  This detector is processing very well--very clean.  Also the combo of  segmented  and all tones is a nice gold I D feature--any "transitory" type signals are obvious.  I've spent my last day  digging rusted  foreign coins...Great machine!

cjc 

On 3/2/2023 at 9:14 PM, schoolofhardNox said:

I need some of the beach hunters that have a black sand mix in their sand, to try something for me if they can. I'm having a problem with the ground noise on the Manticore in the beach modes. I run the screen wide open so that all targets are heard, but the ground noise is more common than the actual iron. It was suggested that I need ground balancing. I usually run tracking ground balance, but I have done it manually also. I prefer tracking. So my problem is that when manual balancing, the ground balance always goes to 0. It never moves when I pump it or if I manually raise it (or decrease it) I don't notice a difference. Then I bob it up and down and it returns to 0. On nice sand I would imagine 0 is fine, but on this black sand mix, it has never read 0 before, but now it does. Can some of you try the beach modes and see if you actually get a negative (or positive) number when you manually balance your machines?  I've included a picture of the sand that I have here. The machine responding to the ground noise directly contradicts the 0 reading I am getting.  Thanks.

Seems to me like the machine is GB'ing the overall environment okay but you are hitting peaks that are noisy.  You might try a manual overtune. pg 54.

cjc

On 1/20/2023 at 1:41 PM, khouse said:

I made mention to one of the testing engineers.  He said it has been noted to ML and I'm not the only one with concerns.  You can't give us great tools to create awesome programs with basically no place to store them.  

well said, and with Neil Jones taking on creating an iron killer "(Freestyle)" to task it would be great to do some side by side comparrisons but no go.  Your favorite is the same as the one you nav to....sombody correct me--please...say  it ain't so...

cjc

sorry about the hijack--an irresistable question...😆

...may have even heard  my music coming in..."...four score and seven years ago..."

cjc

These are things that I've  learned over time and put them into  the book I was writing at the time.  My buddy Joe B bought every book I had at one point--not a bad idea  for exactly that reason.  He and I have that in common--looking to learn as mich as  possible just in case you need it.  Not surprising that he is at the top.  My first NOX book has a lot of solid basics as  does the one on the Anfibio.  It's almost like the specific detector info is secondary compared to the importance  of this kind of skill set.  Signal  balancing is critical more so with these  hair trigger, high powered  machines  that are coming out.  Most wouldn't even  be able  to give  a definition besides turning the Sensitivity down...thats why I dug out the bottom illustration. Even that is way  incomplete.   Just got  a big ring from an iron infested section that other "gonzo" types hunt with the same machine daily--the difference was that running two tone with a moderate, balanced signal I could hear and tune better. 

cjc

1 hour ago, JCR said:

Thanks for the the overall summary of what you teach in your books.  That would be an excellent introduction to include in any future books you publish or revise/reprint.  I have enjoyed & profited from both my Anfibio & Legend books. But I did have to read them several times each for all the pieces you just posted about to come together.

Thanks  JCR.  Those are two good ones.  I especially like the Anfibio as a vehicle with which to learn the above skills.  Its raw audio and "work horse" power are just great to  get the hang of  signal  balancing and any hearing what's what.  You would  recognize the bottom illusttration from the Legend book  This  is why it concerns me when I get people asking "what version is your book about" when it's those  basics  and understanding how they relate to the overall  platform  ofa machine that actually matter.  Mostt of  these upgrades are just preferences by standard. 

Glad they have helped you.

cjc

Way back in 79 when I was a lad, the first thing we were taught was  to "discriminate in all metal." What this means is to use all  metal  mode to examin your targets to see whether  they were a/ wide responding iron or b/ sharp, narrow non-ferrous.  What followed from this  is 'correlation\' where you  are using this information to begin to look for "sets" of  target information. So you are correlating target size, shape, depth (meter) and strength as  the tone would indicate.  Each one of these verifies the others.  I call this the "in keeping" method in that when one of these target features is "off" there is a  problem. This combines with your basic detector skills ie knowing how far somethign is from the coil by the tone.  Coil control target testing is also part of it.  Not just turning sideways on a signal but knowing what angle to test at and when to release ithe target from the coil's infleuence (long cross) or keep in in (short cross) to  get more information.  How you do  this progressively is called 'laddered' testing.  At the same time none of this may  be necessary, but if you  don't know how to do any of it you are prone to this over-reliance on tech  that I  see everywhere.  With basic skills a machine like the Manticore becomes much more effective.  Basic skills also involve  recognising basic signal type differences--how blended with the ground something is--that is being aware ofthe informaton to be had from the relationship between ground  and  target.  Basic skills also  involve  signal  balancing and the host of  gains to be gotten from understanding what this means and how to accomplish it with a given machine.   It's laughable for me to watch many of these YouTube "personalities" considering themselves skilled but not using  any of  these simple skills that would givee  them ten times  the accuracy and  conclusiveness.  I see hunters with some of these skills--but not all of them.  At the same time, anyone can go out and dig a high tone / meter reading--but to search for gold in diffficult environments is  another skill set altogether.   There are no shortcuts, technical or otherwise.  The "ears only" techniques  that many would like to have  still  derive  from these basic skills  and the theory behind them.  Its a shame -dealers used to teach the new hunter a few things but now its the YouTube "blind leading the bllind."  If you run a NOX all three of my NOX  book would give one  a pretty good grounding.  There are a lot  of  reviews at my site from hunters who have been at it for a while but lacked these  basics--"lightbulb" moments  lol.

Back then we learned to walk first. 

...NURSE...!!!

cjc

clivesgoldpage.com

On 2/27/2023 at 10:35 AM, Chase Goldman said:

Which machine is the best?  Pretty simple, really.

It’s the one that you do not hesitate to use most frequently because you know it well and tend to get the results you desire.  That’s it.

People should just stop splitting hairs on equipment and focus instead on learning the equipment they have and doing the research and legwork required to gain legal access to productive sites.  You can do a lot worse than working on social and communication skills vs. viewing endless air tests or listening to anecdotes that have little to no real world applicability to your specific detecting objectives and primarily serve the content provider.  I’ve seen this content just serve to provide more confusion and acrimony than legitimate insights, even when conducted in a controlled, scientific manner.  Just too many variables out there.  It may hold entertainment value for some but I’d rather just see the data and “conclusions” in written form as they generally bore me to tears.  
 

OTOH - I love to supplement my learning of a new machine with instructional videos.  Nothing like seeing and hearing the machine do it’s thing and gaining tips and tricks from those who’ve taken the time to put in the hours of real swing time needed to truly learn a machine inside and out before they even post their first video.

JMO

Lots of "technicians" not enough basic skills.  I see so many of these YouTube vidddies of guys digging obvious junk.  The things I was taught work on all detectors all the time.  "Ask not what your detector can do  for you..." 😆

cjc

On 2/26/2023 at 5:39 PM, TampaBayBrad said:

I'm a low conductor guy just because that's what Tom says he uses.

I've not tested different modes on rings on my beaches, but I think they are pretty much the same on the east coast of Florida where he hunts as my west coast of Florida. And I'm sure he has tested them all, so I'll go with that!

I tried  Tom's set up in fresh it was  prettty impressive.

cjc

Look up CoAxeSeal, its made for exactly that type of thing and works very well to protect contact surfaces from corrosion. 

cjc

This is a good  set up to sharpen your coil testing (varied and  cross sweep) skills.  Tom does run some (4-upper)  FE Limits.  Prospecting audio mode overall is very quick and sharp and when you make changes  to the Rec Spd, or FE Limits for example you  can really hear your changes.  Its a very good way to learn to run a balanced signal instead of depending on any presets.  I ran this mode in fresh last weekend and got a pitted (haloed) quarter down 17" maybe more.  It's quite valuable to find a "deep standard" that can be adapted to other applications.  Prospecting mode on the NOX was actually no deeper than Park 2 but it was fast and lively obviously better in black sand.  Found a lot of stuff in dense shoreline junk with it's accurate audio.  I did this by putting in a small reject block that made it "stutter" on caps so I coud head for the worst areas while others were bogged down digging them all.   

cjc

On 2/19/2023 at 9:17 AM, basstrackerman said:

I have 150 hours or so on my manticore and over last 25 hours or so tried to keep track of all good targets I've dug that were not on or slightly touching center line.  So far I've counted zero keepers that were  not at least slightly touching the line.  I have dug trash non-ferrous on the line , and maybe a couple wrap around iron that showed as a tiny dot on center line at 99.  I've dug a lot of targets that sounded pretty good tone wise and the 2D screen showing nothing on center line and every target was either iron or some sort of trashy metal.  Rattlehead made a video and every pic he posted of his screen of the deep coins in iron showed target trace on or touching center line on every target that was good.  What is everyone's experience with this?  How many of you are digging coins or buttons or any keepers that show up no where near center line?   Just curious .  

A good way  to look at it is that anything off  the center line is more like the ground--more magnetic, more corroded..  Some targets like many rusted caps (20/21)are so strong  in both top and bottom iron ranges that you get what's called a "cross feed"-a tone that mimics something that would respond in the center.  However there will be no middle line painting--just dots top  and bottom.  Hate  to say it but basic skills willl reveal a lot of these--just going to a cross wise coil pass will show big changes in the graph and meter.  You just can't put a ot of  power into the ground and not have these 'bleeds".  The graph should confirm other info--not be a stand alone substitute for basic skills. Where you hear a flat, clipped or broken tone--this will usually coincide with a graph with top and bottom edge painting. 

cjc

Can't believe how hard this detector is to pair.  Im about 1 of 5 now.  Do I need a Farraday Cage?

 Just does that double beep then nothing...

cjc

7 hours ago, abenson said:

Totally agree with you on this. People that don't have the machine don't understand this. I have people continually telling me on my videos to turn the sensitivity up on the Manticore to get better depth/performance. There are 4 major things that are going to determine how high you can run the sensitivity and not get yourself in trouble. EMI, density of iron targets, ground mineralization and on the beach salt. One or more of these are going to determine how high you can run sensitivity. Just because you can do a long press noise cancel and run the sensitivity up to 30+ while holding the coil in the air, doesn't mean you can hunt that way. I've located many deep targets on the beach that if I had the Manticore over powered, I wouldn't have heard the signal through all the noise. High sensitivity on this machine is counter productive.

Ya, many dont understand that all multi FQ machines will give a smooth T/H no matter what.  Just that way up at 30 nothing is jumping  though.  The better the processing, the smoother--conditions notwithstanding.

cjc

This is a detector with a heavily processed signal--period.  This creates a delicate balance in that while this processing is augmented with a lot of  power--physics are physics.  So with the Manticore, everything is there in the signal tone--EMI, proximity of targets, mineraliztion in the ground, sweep or REC SPD too  fast--its like the signal  is being crept up on by this wave of generalized interference--not just electrical EMI.  This is reflected in how well  targets sounds stand out. Try turning the  machine on indoors at Sens 30.  Listen to a few targets while  greadually turning it down.  As you  reduce the Sens, the processing stops  working against you--confounding the signal.  Way down at say 15 you finally have  a signal tone that is standing out from the background.  Signal to noise is a big part of understtading this machine--like the NOX.  However, the Manticore is a lot more refined in that even with a lot of noise--it's still going deep in kind of a faint tone way...The "I'll turn it up and learn to hear though everything" guys  are not going to get far  with this one--it needs to be  run and listtened to  in  a balanced, measured  way.   Its not a loud, robust signal but it's a deep one.  This is the processing--it's sampling at an extreme ratio- like the NOX  it does not at all sound like its going deep but it is.  Kind of  funny the ads talking about all this power--but up past 25 you are already in trouble with the audio tightening up and clipping...

Tip?  Focus on peaked sounds.

I can see that this machine will be challenging, but worth learning.

cjc

On 2/7/2023 at 8:17 PM, Yatahaze323 said:

Are you pressing and holding the pinpoint button down when the noise happens? 

I think I've had that happen, just need to get used to pressing the button once to turn it on and not hold it down.

that's a good point, thanks!  hadthe sense that it was indicating something about the target itself....

cjc

When I go over some targets in PP there's this intermittant noise.  What the hell is that?  Some kind of Ratchet limit warning? 

Used to be able to figure these things out...😆

cjc

On 2/4/2023 at 10:35 AM, Geezer said:

Well said. Internet experts are everywhere, to listen to them sometimes it is easy to assume they actually know something. The problem comes when someone new gets to looking at these “experts” and does not have the experience to know the BS from good information. 

Harsh, but a well made point. It seems odd that Minelab would care enough about the individual in question to respond at all given what those videos actually amount to. Are they actually afraid of people like this?

Content creators and influencers are not the same thing as experts, sometimes a long way from any real understanding of the thing they talk about at all. Thank heaven for this forum, the truth always seems to settle out of the discussion and threads like this are valuable for setting things straight.

Doing research for this year’s detector purchase has me watching YouTube metal detecting videos lately. The bar is set pretty low.

 

I actually saw one YouTube dude going on about the interference problem of  the Manticore as he swept the coil over patches of snow.  He also had his screen protector slapped on sideways.....unreal...

cjc

10 hours ago, Medina said:

Watched a few minutes of his first video, was too painful. Tried a couple of his other vids... merciful feck it was painful. 

Skipped about his second one, explaining the first one..like a joke, if you have to explain it..  That Uncle Fester looking dude is just another "content creator",  Repeating over and over how many videos he put out before he finally got a viral one, shows exactly where his priorities are. 

He's a teacher?? oh, we're screwed.  FCC has limits, yes, and he thought, what, how those limits are processed are all the same, no difference in a 200 or a 2000 detector? That he couldn't grasp the very mechanics of a metal detector and how that particular machine process the blob of EMI its dumping is quite disturbing really... a teacher? 

Once again, you could hand me a Stradivarius and it would still sound like a cat getting strangled. Not the tool, the user. 

 

I still have an 800(probably 1200 hours) , the Manti, and my CTX (maybe 400/450 hours)... the ctx rules, its too heavy, otherwise, i'd never have bought the Manti. The manti is twice the machine the 800 is, they should have called it the 1600. HA!  That ID line, how it processes, the ability to screw with the various settings...its a poor mans CTX and lighter!  

just my .02 zinc worth, Minelab screwed all the 800 users... I see folks selling them as low as 550 frantic to get the 900 or the Manti. Imagine the dump we'll see when they finally come out with the CTX4040 or whatever..maybe they'll give it a silly name instead of numerical designation so its easier to rationalize the purchase. ...maybe... The Phantosmia! 😄

Tempting to say that the 900 is how M/L fixes a leak and gets  you to pay--but it does have some nice touches.  

Seems that these  days, everyone with a puffed out chest and a YouTube channel is a teacher (or even "Detexpert)"--basic skills and theory notwithstanding.  Amazing how many of these guys have the slickest tech out in hand but still manage to dig spikes, odd  flyspecks and massive, miss-shapen lumps of iron--like I said, basic skills  notwithstanding.  It also  concerns me that Ml/L is so smittten with the tech of the Manticore that they  don't think that anyone needs Sizing Pinpoint to tell whats what.  (To me that's the bread and butter of becoming accurate any machine).  Watching these  YouTube experts, many do-- (if they had the basic target correlation skills to make use of it).  There I've said it all...breathing heavy--gotta sit down--or lie down...or something...😆

cjc

On 1/15/2023 at 9:24 PM, phrunt said:

So I now finally have a Manticore, I'm up to the beach hunting part of my holiday and was intending to take it for a soak pretty quickly after getting it, but looking at the thing it really looks like it might fail in the water, the seal looks like it was done by a 2 year old.

Is this how they all look? Looks pretty shonky to me.

On the plus side for those of us that bought the Nugget Finder solid Skid plate for their Equinox for prospecting or whatever they'll be pleased to know it also fits the Manticore's 11" coil perfectly.

 

That needs  to go back.  

cjc

At first I thought he might be getting to the guts of this 50% more power claim, but my take is that even with the help Merrill has--he's in over his head in that this idea of power to the coil relating singularly  to depth is an outdated  one.  The ground forms part of the signal and is separated  by way of processing.   That (power = depth) is not even true of a pulse, as Bill Lahr has repeatedly told me.   With Multi  IQ we have a tech that (by way of sophisticated processing) locks the  ground and iron signal away from the detection signal.  This is a feat of  the amount of power going to the processer.  So with this increase there are many other benefits anyhow--most important of which is the machine separating non--ferrous objects from the ground better.  This  is what a pulse does and the difference is incredible--on deep or shallow targets--they come out of (VLF) "nowhere."  As well, the saturation that multiple frequences provide needs  to be sorted out.  This also falls to the sophistication and power of the processer being used.  The CTX is  still deeper than the EQX with or without Multi IQ--because it has that big heavy processor chugging away. 

I'm really liking the look and tech of  this detector and won't be listening to any half-baked attempts to run it down.  

cjc

On 1/16/2023 at 10:14 PM, midalake said:

 

That is one thing I hate with the Equinox too. The D2 and Tarsacci do not do this.

Really makes target recovery in the active wave wash a PIA.  Def a Minelab thing. 

I would  say this indicates a machine that performs bettter in-ground.

cjc

On 1/30/2023 at 10:41 AM, bklein said:

“This may sound a little crazy but I can't wait to get my hands inside of that monster..☠️”

I’m that way too!  Please take lots of photos. I figure a hot wire cutter might be a good way to open it.
CJC, is $85 your shipping cost or repair cost? I’m still waiting for someone to say what an out of warranty repair will cost.

 

$85 CDN just to ship.  Cut the box down this time--only $79...

As good as these machines are--my two are not earning their keep because of these build flaws.

cjc