Tom Slick

I've also had the GBP, F19, and G2+. I'm one of the few the preferred the F19 over the G2+ as the slight ergo advantage goes to the G2+, I prefer the more solid feel of the F19. The problem I had with the F19 was that once I used the Racer 2, the F19 never got used again. For my relic, ghost town, home sites, etc. the Racer 2 was the better performer. 

I think the feature set makes for a great coin and jewelry detector. The only issue I had with mine was the audio was so clipped that it made it nearly impossible to distinguish between a good target and a false signal. I was nearly always swinging over every chirp multiple times trying to figure out if it was a good target or not. Maybe I got a bad one, but I sold it pretty quick and moved on. 

That was it. I knew they would work in some cases. It was the Concentric verse DD that I had forgotten. Thanks for the reminder. 

I'm pretty sure that the F19 will use the GREEK series coils like the F44, Gold Bug Pro, Eurotek Pro, Gamma, Omega etc. ?

You can detect much closer than 45 feet. Realize the depth on both detectors will be reduced even if you don't hear each other. If you're not concerned with getting maximum depth, reduce gain or sensitivity to 60  or so and you'll be able to hit shallow 4-5" depth coins and jewelry while detecting 10' or less apart. 

I bought an F19 in Camo. Didn't like the Camo at first but the detector offered what I wanted at the time. The Camo grew on me, and after awhile I actually started liking it. Only Camo thing I've ever had I think.

That's a really nice arm rest. Very cool that your son made that for you.👍

6 minutes ago, Rick N. MI said:

What will Simplex coils cost? 

I'll guess - about $115.00

Thanks Steve. Now buying the Simplex is a no brainer for me.👍

Would be nice to use the Headphones I already have.

I for one will not be buying another detector just to get a desired coil. I'll go to another manufacturer for a totally different detector that has a selection of coils. Each of the Nokta/Makro detectors I have bought I ended up with 4 or 5 coils for it including the Racer, Racer 2, Impact, Multi Anfibio, and Multi Kruzer. The Nox 800 will be my only Minelab. It's kinda like buying a set of screwdrivers and it only has 3 drivers in it. What about all the situations or screws they don't fit? Would you go but another of the same manufacturer's set, or buy some other manufacturers that has a set with 10 different drivers?

Detector bling

Is not my thing

But for those that do

Here's to you 🍻

I've been buying and selling Amethyst for years and doubt that's what you have. My guess is Garnet or possibly Ruby (though unlikely). Amethyst (purple colored quartz) has more of a purple color than your more red stones.

GREAT find either way!  

Most folks would call that a pile of Junk. I love square nails, but I usually have to pick mine up one at a time. If I found that many together, I'd have to build something using them. Way to go!

In my neck of the woods, I find Nickels to come in at 13 about 95% of the time. Rarely do they hit at 12 and I don't think I've ever dug a 14 nickel. Any lake that is producing pull tabs and especially the older ring tabs is prime Gold Ring Habitat. Not it they are an indication of gold being present, but a good sign that nobody has hunted it well or for quite some time. 

The iron in the metal and the jagged edge. 

Chase, I agree with you except I think that Nokta/Makro detectors have surpassed the AT series so even at a reduced price the AT line won't support Garrett much longer. 

Looks like business travel has been good for you. To bad ?they're mostly Merc's. (my second favorite coin). Which coil you been using?

I started using the Nox 800 in Park 1 with the factory setting of 6 on the I/B. Most all my detecting is now done around old home sites, lots, and ghost town sites. As I became more familiar with the Nox, I started lowering the I/B gradually and now only run it at "0". I found that by running the lower I/B that I could go back to areas I had hunted before and continue to pull more non-ferrous each time I lowered it. I dig a little more iron now but the unmasking benefit makes it worth it to me. If I was traveling and only had the opportunity to hit a spot once, I'd increase the I/B to basically cherry pick it, but I feel the lower the I/B the better, if you don't want to miss anything. 

I've been detecting for about 45 years and my hearing is still very good. I most always hunt with the disc set a zero or with the horseshoe button engaged. I make most all my dig or no-dig decisions on what I hear. The meter comes into play on those signals that my ears can't decipher. Most of the time, I'm looking for reasons to dig a target, not reasons to not dig it.

If I'm hunting a modern park and looking for clad and jewelry, I set the I/B at 6 but around iron infested sites I'll run the I/B at zero with my first tone break set to zero and my first bin volume also set to zero. I don't need to hear the iron "to keep me on the site" as the sites go from this fence to that fence, or I can just keep a look out for rusted cans. 
That's how I do it, anyone else?

 

You can adjust both the volume and the frequency of the tone. Factory default is set at 25 for both. I use volume set at 24 but frequency for the highest tone set at 25 hz. 

I've got a couple rolls of un-dug War nickels and can't find any that read high. High reading war nickels must be fairly few and far between.   

I went for the "S" rod shape because I thought it crazy to add weight to my detector to make it swing better when I could make it swing better by adding the "S" rod and not having to add weight. Different strokes. 

I switched mine to an S rod. I used a White's center rod as they are only $19.00 where the Minelab Center rod for a 705 is $45.00. The problem is that the White's rod has a smaller diameter than the Equinox rod so I had to shim it. I used the plaastic lid off a Folgers Coffee container and it was the perfect thickness. With it being a flexible plastic, it slid into the upper rod very easy and the twist lock on the Nox holds it very securely. Of course I had to also drill it on the bottom for the spring button, and I use White's lower rods for my coils. Being a past White's dealer, I have lots of lower rods. Been using it this way 3 to 4 times a week for a year and it's holding up great. I think it swings much better as there is no rotational twisting at the end of each swing.

Tracking can mess you up if you're detecting around a lot of iron as the detector will start to track to the iron (nails). I've found that unless I'm hunting in highly variable mineralized ground, the detector works best by doing a manual GB, or just turning it on and hunting works better than using tracking. 

The Racer 2 can only use the Makro Wireless headphones. Makro used a proprietary system and not conventional Blue Tooth. I think you could use the Garrett Z Link if you want a wireless system that allows you to use the headphones of your choice. 

Brian,

 I've been using a couple of three port chargers like the one you mentioned above. One thing I've found is that with these "smart" chargers they sometimes won't go into a charge mode unless there is a decent drain or pull on the charger. The charger will just sit there because it doesn't notice the item that's plugged into it. If there's not enough draw or pull nothing happens. I've solved that issue by most always plugging in the detector at the same time as the earbuds or headphones. The detector draws enough to keep the charger in charge mode and not just in maintenance mode. If this makes any sense.