Tom Slick

I've got a couple rolls of un-dug War nickels and can't find any that read high. High reading war nickels must be fairly few and far between.

I went for the "S" rod shape because I thought it crazy to add weight to my detector to make it swing better when I could make it swing better by adding the "S" rod and not having to add weight. Different strokes.

I think it swings much better with the "S" rod than the straight shaft. With the straight shaft, the detector tries to twist at the end of each swing as you stop the swing to make the detector swing in the opposit direction. The twist or torque is eliminated with the S rod. It also helps to move the coil a little further out from your feet so you can cover more ground with each swing while reducing the effort required to switch swing direction.

I switched mine to an S rod. I used a White's DFX center rod as they are only $19.00 where the Minelab Center rod for a 705 is $45.00. The problem is that the White's rod has a smaller diameter than the Equinox rod so I had to shim it. I used the plaastic lid off a Folgers Coffee container and it was the perfect thickness. With it being a flexible plastic, it slid into the upper rod very easy and the twist lock on the Nox holds it very securely. Of course I had to also drill it on the bottom for the spring button, and I use White's lower rods for my coils. Being a past White's dealer, I have lots of lower rods. Been using it this way 3 to 4 times a week for a year and it's holding up great. I think it swings much better as there is no rotational twisting at the end of each swing.

I switched mine to an S rod. I used a White's center rod as they are only $19.00 where the Minelab Center rod for a 705 is $45.00. The problem is that the White's rod has a smaller diameter than the Equinox rod so I had to shim it. I used the plaastic lid off a Folgers Coffee container and it was the perfect thickness. With it being a flexible plastic, it slid into the upper rod very easy and the twist lock on the Nox holds it very securely. Of course I had to also drill it on the bottom for the spring button, and I use White's lower rods for my coils. Being a past White's dealer, I have lots of lower rods. Been using it this way 3 to 4 times a week for a year and it's holding up great. I think it swings much better as there is no rotational twisting at the end of each swing.

Tracking can mess you up if you're detecting around a lot of iron as the detector will start to track to the iron (nails). I've found that unless I'm hunting in highly variable mineralized ground, the detector works best by doing a manual GB, or just turning it on and hunting works better than using tracking.

The Racer 2 can only use the Makro Wireless headphones. Makro used a proprietary system and not conventional Blue Tooth. I think you could use the Garrett Z Link if you want a wireless system that allows you to use the headphones of your choice.

Brian, I've been using a couple of three port chargers like the one you mentioned above. One thing I've found is that with these "smart" chargers they sometimes won't go into a charge mode unless there is a decent drain or pull on the charger. The charger will just sit there because it doesn't notice the item that's plugged into it. If there's not enough draw or pull nothing happens. I've solved that issue by most always plugging in the detector at the same time as the earbuds or headphones. The detector draws enough to keep the charger in charge mode and not just in maintenance mode. If this makes any sense.

I once had the same issue. What worked for me was to turn off the headphones(earbuds) and the detector. Turn on the headphones and hold down the pairing button(on/off switch) until the blue lights start to flash red-blue-red-blue. Turn on detector - hold wireless connect button (top right of detector) down for 5 seconds. Pairing should happen within a minute or two. Hope this helps. Works the same on my headphones and my earbuds.

Brian, Looking forward to your hunt results. Been thinking about getting the 15" coil myself. May work great at hunting the outer limits of some sites around here.

Great find! I hope he's not like me. I usually forget to take my best finds to the meeting.

The simple answer is to LOOK at the targets after recovery, then its pretty easy to tell the difference between gold and trash. Sounds sarcastic but it's really the only sure fire way.

Iron Bias is basically the same thing as White's "Bottle Cap Reject". It's been on a number of White's detectors, V3i, VX3, DFX, etc. An adjustment to help make sure bottle caps (iron) registered as such and not a coin. Of course now, many bottle caps are actually an iron /alloy making it more difficult to disc out without missing good targets also. DD coils don't help in that regard. In the past, most detectors used concentric coils which are better at discrimination but now most manufactures use DD coils as standard equipment. Each have their advantages.

There's also the 11' round DD coil from the Anfibio that will work on the MMK. Gets more depth than the standard 7.5" X 11" MMK coil.

No need to do the factory Reset. Just switch them out.