Tom Slick

Detector bling Is not my thing But for those that do Here's to you 🍻

I've been buying and selling Amethyst for years and doubt that's what you have. My guess is Garnet or possibly Ruby (though unlikely). Amethyst (purple colored quartz) has more of a purple color than your more red stones. GREAT find either way!

I have a Makro Multi Kruzer and the Nox 800. I took the MMK out to the lake and it flooded within the first 10 minutes of getting submerged just under the surface. It was replaced under warranty. I've been afraid to that the Nox to the lake after hearing of them getting flooded. I think the temperature extremes play havoc on keeping these detectors sealed. I had to buy another Tesoro Tiger Shark to replace the one I sold when I bought the Nox and MMK thinking they would be my new water detectors. The Tiger is good for 200' deep and is built MUCH tougher than the other two.

Most folks would call that a pile of Junk. I love square nails, but I usually have to pick mine up one at a time. If I found that many together, I'd have to build something using them. Way to go!

In my neck of the woods, I find Nickels to come in at 13 about 95% of the time. Rarely do they hit at 12 and I don't think I've ever dug a 14 nickel. Any lake that is producing pull tabs and especially the older ring tabs is prime Gold Ring Habitat. Not it they are an indication of gold being present, but a good sign that nobody has hunted it well or for quite some time.

The iron in the metal and the jagged edge.

Chase, I agree with you except I think that Nokta/Makro detectors have surpassed the AT series so even at a reduced price the AT line won't support Garrett much longer.

Looks like business travel has been good for you. To bad ?they're mostly Merc's. (my second favorite coin). Which coil you been using?

I started using the Nox 800 in Park 1 with the factory setting of 6 on the I/B. Most all my detecting is now done around old home sites, lots, and ghost town sites. As I became more familiar with the Nox, I started lowering the I/B gradually and now only run it at "0". I found that by running the lower I/B that I could go back to areas I had hunted before and continue to pull more non-ferrous each time I lowered it. I dig a little more iron now but the unmasking benefit makes it worth it to me. If I was traveling and only had the opportunity to hit a spot once, I'd increase the I/B to basically cherry pick it, but I feel the lower the I/B the better, if you don't want to miss anything. I've been detecting for about 45 years and my hearing is still very good. I most always hunt with the disc set a zero or with the horseshoe button engaged. I make most all my dig or no-dig decisions on what I hear. The meter comes into play on those signals that my ears can't decipher. Most of the time, I'm looking for reasons to dig a target, not reasons to not dig it. If I'm hunting a modern park and looking for clad and jewelry, I set the I/B at 6 but around iron infested sites I'll run the I/B at zero with my first tone break set to zero and my first bin volume also set to zero. I don't need to hear the iron "to keep me on the site" as the sites go from this fence to that fence, or I can just keep a look out for rusted cans. That's how I do it, anyone else?

You can adjust both the volume and the frequency of the tone. Factory default is set at 25 for both. I use volume set at 24 but frequency for the highest tone set at 25 hz.

I've got a couple rolls of un-dug War nickels and can't find any that read high. High reading war nickels must be fairly few and far between.

I went for the "S" rod shape because I thought it crazy to add weight to my detector to make it swing better when I could make it swing better by adding the "S" rod and not having to add weight. Different strokes.

I think it swings much better with the "S" rod than the straight shaft. With the straight shaft, the detector tries to twist at the end of each swing as you stop the swing to make the detector swing in the opposit direction. The twist or torque is eliminated with the S rod. It also helps to move the coil a little further out from your feet so you can cover more ground with each swing while reducing the effort required to switch swing direction.

I switched mine to an S rod. I used a White's DFX center rod as they are only $19.00 where the Minelab Center rod for a 705 is $45.00. The problem is that the White's rod has a smaller diameter than the Equinox rod so I had to shim it. I used the plaastic lid off a Folgers Coffee container and it was the perfect thickness. With it being a flexible plastic, it slid into the upper rod very easy and the twist lock on the Nox holds it very securely. Of course I had to also drill it on the bottom for the spring button, and I use White's lower rods for my coils. Being a past White's dealer, I have lots of lower rods. Been using it this way 3 to 4 times a week for a year and it's holding up great. I think it swings much better as there is no rotational twisting at the end of each swing.

I switched mine to an S rod. I used a White's center rod as they are only $19.00 where the Minelab Center rod for a 705 is $45.00. The problem is that the White's rod has a smaller diameter than the Equinox rod so I had to shim it. I used the plaastic lid off a Folgers Coffee container and it was the perfect thickness. With it being a flexible plastic, it slid into the upper rod very easy and the twist lock on the Nox holds it very securely. Of course I had to also drill it on the bottom for the spring button, and I use White's lower rods for my coils. Being a past White's dealer, I have lots of lower rods. Been using it this way 3 to 4 times a week for a year and it's holding up great. I think it swings much better as there is no rotational twisting at the end of each swing.