dewcon4414

Is that the same DOC out in Vegas?   Ive meteor  hunted with one of the older guys there quit a few years back.   Not a bad combo for the lowers with their length if you are a tall guy.  

I didnt have the ML shaft on long enough to find out how they wear.   BUT....... i can tell you on say the Xcal those rubber do no good.....by time you crank the bolt its right against that head starting to wear.   I started using a Whites tall boy lower shaft with some larger rubbers on the Xcals....... Plugger passed me that idea.

Sorry, but that looks awkward with moving the handle forward and adding yours.   Its got to throw even more of the weight forward.   I assume you had to drill your own holes (as well as adjustment ones) and you added your cuff..... which was what $30.... but i guess you could have used the ML one.   You are getting awfully close to the Andersons price now..... and you get the cuff and all drilled and dont have that twist lock.   Hey but its an option just like Pluggers or making your own using the ML lower and cuff with a piece of CF...... for about $60.

Big boy....... side of a hill .... bad angle and possible leaning on the machine to dig.    As a water guy ....... many have that bad habit when using the scoop out there...... we love using the machine to balance ourselves while we are getting pushed around and dig.   Some have broken coil ears by allowing the lower shaft rubbers to wear ..... which wears that head......... which makes them crank down that bolt to much..... add that to water torque..... and it happens.

I had that discussing about epoxy with ML some years back.    As long as the epoxy was marine epoxy and didnt degrade/cause damage they had no problem with it.  However....... they did have an issue with bed liner because some contained metal flakes that affected the tuning.   I also believe if you have a CTX and check those ears....... they are the same size..... only difference is the supports.    The CTX one make an X under the coil ..... the Nox is flat.   I dont think we are going to have an issue with those ears if the CTX hasnt. 

Welllllll you do know if you screw the pooch it could be years to get a replacement coil?  I use loctite marine epoxy on mine.   Its white and can easily be spread like peanut butter with your finger.  Hard as a rock when done.  The white color allows you to notice the ware better too.   So did you opt not to call ML?   They may well replace the coil for you.   I tried to get a replacement coil cover......... not available.

Dew

Kenny....... there is a video on IB showing what happens with increased IB and near targets you might want to look at.   Clearly we loose targets with increased IB....... for beach hunting i use 0 IB.   Other hunting may call for some.    Depends on where you are i guess too on tracking...... i run default it lets me know when im in fluffy or hard pan.

One guy was walking a hillside and broke his an ear.    As a water guy we tend to want to use the detector as a crutch while digging..... dont do that.   They seem to be harder than you think to break.   You can always use a Large nylon washer on the outside big enough to have to grind the bottom off.  That can provides some support.    That appears to be a bubble in the epoxy.   IF you see a wire in that bubble id call ML.   They did a poor job of filling the coil.   We had that issue with the Xcal slimlines..... under filled coil casing lead to them splitting on the bottom.  What was happening was the lower rod head would wear and people kept cranking the bolt tighter and then leaning on their detector.

Had a guy yesterday on vacation who was using the Nox and we were going over some things.   He had the Ukrainian phones......... i let him try mine.   He really felt ripped off at that point.   Dont discount Harolds here in Fl either.... he uses a high quality cable and speakers.  His are completely sealed........ no drain holes ect.   Which keeps not only the water out........ but all that wind whistle you get on those windy days. 

I agree with Steve .... you cant beat the ProGold.  Great clearcrisp tones.  BUT..... if you take a look at the specs on almost any top quality phones they have the same specs..... odd huh?   Black widow can be the loudest, but they also have the best MUFFS for noise reduction.  You can match that by adding a pair of aircraft jel muffs to about any.    For dirt machines........ i highly recommend volume controls.... you want the machine to produce as much volume on the target.

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Another good way ive found since i dont run a threshold as well is to open up the iron ...... but lower the volume and tone khz on it.   It sort of replaces a threshold allowing you to just hear it which tells you a lot about iron in the area yet isnt annoying.  Chase is right ...... disc targets doesnt always affect depth but can lower sensitivity on near digits chopping them.  Also...... you will notice some of that falsing which you hear in the lower bin.... switches back to the iron bin.

 

Shouldnt be a threshold issue........ the Nox doesnt run with a TRUE threshold..... its basiclly noise except in Gold mode.   So its not an issue of breaking the threshold.... it would be more of an issue of the phones respond capability.   The Nox likes minerals/iron and chirps a bit more it also seems a bit more sensitive to the coil scrub.   Lot of reasons to cause a false signal....... to much sensitivity, a weak target, IB to high, sweep speed to fast along with a high recovery speed... chopping signals, coil flip...... on and on.    The machine will take some learning as to what is or isnt a DEEP signal.   Until then you have to do some of the ole coil wiggle over targets to see if you can get a repeat......... if not move on.

Tony makes a good pair of reliable...... i mean waterproof phones with good volume.  Hes method of encasing the speaker doesnt muffle the sound that bad.   He uses a smaller pair of MSA muffs.   Harold uses the larger muff.... like pelters and speaker in lieu of piezos.  He completely seals the phones........no drain holes ect.    I like Harolds for the CTX........ you have to turn the volume down and the speakers are just a richer clearer tone more like land phones.    Id also think finding a tone to suit your hearing in the upper khz would improve what you hear as well.   I sometimes run in 2 tones......having the non-ferrious in a high khz really distinguishes the two targets.   Even 5 tone is better.

Chase...... even the CTX had volume issues.   Most of us make our own with either audiosear speakers or piezos.   audiosears seem to be the way to go with both the CTX and Nox.  Ive got a pair that you have to turn down the volume on the CTX.   The WP ML phones use some kind of silcone which really reduces the piezos ability to vibrate properly..... but does and excellent job of sealing it.   Most now thou have opted to encase the speaker rather than put stuff on them.   Not many pairs of phones in the salt water if used with any consistency wont fail.....expect it.  Im expecting the same out of the box/battery........ but in 3 years even if you have to send it back once and they have to replace it..... its a win IMO.   I get this uneasy felling they will change that warranty period just like they did with the Xcal and maybe even the price tag.

Now that there are some very good waterproof ear buds im wondering if you cant use them and just put say gun muffs over them to dive to this limited depth and hear better?  

Comfortable???   I prefer the old blue ones..... no i prefer most any that ive used that are waterproof.   Those plastic slides wear fast and the muff dont keep out much noise at all.

Looks like someone got a bargain for their 600.   You can stack it anyway you want .... but the cost of either of these machines as a water machine is FAR less than the others being used.   Some good points about what it costs ML and our expected resale.   It would be interesting to see what the WM....... phones....... and shaft would sell at as a package on Ebay.  Have the phones and shaft already gotten a bad rep?   We dont seem to know that much about the WM just because most are just using wireless.  

I dont know why anyone who has ever used the yellow would think these would be different....... they just changed the plug.   They had low volume on the CTX as well.   BUT...... id have to say they are dive ready/sealed very well.   As a water guy..... im kind of used to having to change out a shaft and phones...... so the price of this machine REALLY helped.   Bummer on the machine...... second one like this....... just wonder where the leak is....... it must be the seal used for the screen?   

Heres another recent video on IB............. this was interesting.  Clearly those numbers even when not responding or in the neg range were near iron targets........ 15 - 17...... but for beach hunting worthy of checking if deep.

We have a lot of people dry sand hunting here........ so maybe its me but i dont mind the holes even thou it takes but a second to kick the sand in.   When it does bother me is near the wet sand where most of the walkers, runners, and older people walk.   Thats an area that ONLY we seem to dig in and is very visible.  We have a good many who do that before the sun comes up...... thats a safety issue.    The dry sand is a little different.......... we have tons of people with kids and even adults with SHOVELS digging hole that the tractor has to use the scoop to cover up.   Our holes up there barely get noticed..... unless you PP really really badly and dig to China.   Not like parks or places many dirt diggers go........ and the GP complain just because you are out of the ordinary.   Beach and detectors are just a way of life on the Fl beaches.

Great find........ ive got a few of those nugget rings.

I was just reading a text from someone in Texas who is using Park mode with manual GB setting 2 to 4 digits higher than auto to quiet the machine down.  He says it lets them muting and reduced depth of the two BEACH modes.    I believe this method of increased GB will quiet it down maybe...... but like disc it will reduce sensitivity to the gold near the salt level and i disagree it will get better depth in wet to damp sand.   Im still pretty firm that Field 2 is the deeper for dry sand.... Beach 1 for damp and wet to waters edge and Beach 2 properly set in the water.   He likely could get the same depth just reducing the sensitivity and running 0 GB.   I think the park modes also already disc out digits 1 and 2.  Personally i like a little chatter that comes and goes....... it lets me know when im closer to the hard pan.

Got a message from  VA Max........ he has trouble with them too.   He didnt think they were making the right connection..... wasnt always shutting off the speaker so we passed some pictures.   If that jack aint flush with the M12 it dont take much to not work right.

So..... i think we see a fault with this chart....... we dont know what the algorithms really do unless they are soil tested.   

Neck...... and maybe snorkel deep.    I think ML made it clear ..... if you want to dive use the Xcal.   I know a few who really took the CTX deep with the right O ring.   Im also not sure if you damage it and are truthful you took it beyond their depth range that ML would repair it...... or if they even should.   Ive got about 400 hours and most of those are in the water with the box under.   Only know one guy...... Max who had a water leak so far.  I guessing thats a pretty low percentage.  Far less than the CTX had.

BUT........ wouldnt it be great if he was correct?   Hes right .....  more detector specific coils would really increase the popularity of this machine.    Machines like the Sov were very popular....... lot of it had to do with the coils available.   Not only that ...... prices would be competitive. 

ML in Aussie land are following the machine carefully ........ so any issues is sent to them.   One of the Seniors told me its cheaper to replace than repair since they make it all not to mention the labor charge and it cant really be taken apart with out further damage the way its sealed.