2Valen

Will never work without the transflux capacitor, and then it will only get you future finds or on occasion a couple of past finds.

I forgot to mention about the belt being loose and not laying flat.

Try taking it off carefully and clean the back side and then add some belt dressing to help revive it.

It may become brittle and then it would have to be replaced if it chips and cracks to bad.

Where the yellow circle is this was important from the information that you sent me.

The trough 50 is constructed such that it slants downwardly away from side wall 40 of the tray 36. A removable cup 49 or container may be positioned adjacent to and below the end 51 of the trough so as to catch particles of gold which have been previously separated from sand. The cup 49 is concave and is placed in the container is such that its rim 53 is slightly below the water line. Gold and silver particles drop off the end of trough 50 and fall into the cup, striking the concave surface. This action causes swirling of the liquid within the cup and serves to loosen light particles from the gold and silver. These light particles float to the top of the cup, and over the edge and into the container.

The red circle portion was updated later after this patent to look more like the photo that you added. It is there to help with the concentrates to more evenly clean them.

I hope this helps.

Where did you come across this system?

I would like to make a 12 volt system just like it for my area. We have fine gold here and it would work great for what I have found.

Toecutter,

The 2 items that I have circled I am sure that the red one is for a outlet that looks missing.

That would be to help regulate the water pressure at the top of the table to keep the gold where you want it to go.

The yellow circle is for a cup area for when the gold is cleaned out of the funnel tray at the top.

All else that I see is there and I hope that it works for you. They can take a bit of time to get used to how it works, but they are really great units.

That unit is great for when you are panning and then dump the remaining in to it to remove what you don't want to keep.

6 hours ago, alaskaseeker said:

I dont buy anything, i dug them up in a farm field in England..

I do hope that you know that I was joking with you, but I think that some of us would have liked more information on where and how you found them.

Sorry if you took it the wrong way.

7 hours ago, Toecutter said:

I need a couple parts to get it running

Which parts are you looking for?

From the pictures that I have seen it looks intact except for the cup that catches the gold at the drain off.

Also a better picture of the item in the bottom left corner would have helped to see the entire unit.

That item looks to go over the top of the rest of it so that it will separate the large items that are not gold.

Is that correct or am I seeing something that is not there?

Nice pic's but which flea market did you dig them up at?

I believe that when the belt is running and the water is running, all the small gold will be caught in the tread of the belt.

The small sand and rocks are washed away due to the water pressure like a standard sluice.

They have been around for several years and if you understand how it is suppose to work and get it regulated properly it will work fine.

The unit was to capture the flour gold that was to small for a standard sluice.

I have only read about them many years ago and I am going off that memory so if anyone else knows more about it please correct me if I am wrong.

On 10/31/2019 at 5:05 PM, phrunt said:

I don't wear gloves and I find the smooth handle of the Equinox nice,

Same here Simon, I really don't know why someone would want a cushion to make your hands sweat.

I believe that the "F" was stamped to show which key it was made for and the fact that there was a wood comb in it shows that it was from 1860 to early 1900's.

The top and bottom could also have been made from wood also, but I doubt it. Some fronts and backs were also made out of gold for a couple of years. There were only a couple hundred of them made because of the cost back then and they are rare.

Any way it is still a interesting find.

Here is some more information that I have found for you.

The bold information is the main parts that I wanted you to see the most.

At the bottom is information to check out if you want to know more about what you have found.

The harmonica's materials may also help in the estimate of it's vintage. Generally, the more primitive the harmonica looks, the older it is.The first Hohner harmonicas were made by hand, on a kitchen table, by 4 workers, in 1857 (as the story goes).

By 1880, Hohner used modern machines, ushering in mass production techniques. The first harmonicas (not Hohners) were made in 1822, and used lead reed plates or no reed plates.hand-hammered brass reeds, or other less expensive materials, and hand-carved wood combs. By 1830, harmonicas were being made in the USA and England. The English "Aeolion" had no comb, and was a reed plate and reeds only.

6. Key Stamp, Major or Minor Key, Model & Number, In English, German, Spanish or French:

The same models of harmonica are often re-named and sold in several countries. The covers are changed, in the language of the country to which the harps are sent. The language on the covers is determined by the harp's area
of distribution. This may or may not help determine your harmonica's vintage.

In Germany, our key of Bb is stamped B, and our B is H. Also, in German, dur means major, and moll means minor key. Some harmonicas have the key stamped on the top cover, othes are engraved, embossed or painted on the comb or top cover. Genrally, embossed key stamps are older harmonicas, then engraved, then painted key stamps.

Expert harmonica collectors may also determine a harmonica's vintage in other ways, such as shape and/ or size of the rivets holding the reeds onto the reed plates, amount of tabs on the covers (for the cover screws or nails), and so on.

Generally, harmonicas that have 2 tabs on the right side and 2 on the left side of each cover are older harps (circa late 1880s through about 1937), than the harmonica covers with one tab on the right and one on the left. Also, the shape of the single tabs on the covers is also important for dating. The rounded tabs are earlier models from about 1910 to about 1940, and the square tabs are generally dated from 1940 to present day.

All of the statements in this article are subject to discussion and contradiction, but are based on experiences of reliable harmonica collectors, players and repair people. For more information on dating your Hohner harmonica, contact (2002 information):

Alan Bates, HCI, 426 Bayberry lane, West Grove, PA 19390 (USA).

America's Shrine to Music Museum (Alan Bates' collection of 3500 harmonicas donated to the musieum),
414E. Clarke St. Vermillion, SD 57069-2390 (USA)

Hohner, USA, Inc., Sissi Jones, Repair Dept.,1000 Technology Park, Glen Allen, VA 23060 (USA),
Phone: (804) 515-1900.

11 hours ago, Steve Herschbach said:

the differences between all of us as regards not only experience levels but true hard wired brain differences. 

Steve,

I fully understand what you are saying, as I have been learning my 800 for the past 4 months.

I don't get out as often as I would want to, either it is to dry or like now with all the rain we are having.

Sometimes I hear and see what is going on and other times I just get pull tabs.

Soon I will know what is going on and will be much better at what I am doing, but for now I am happy just to learn what I am doing.

Boatman,

Steve has a lot of knowledge on this subject and I would/have listened to him.

Fred is also someone to listen to on these subjects.

I have had my unit for less than 4 months and it is a really good unit as I have found items down to 18 inches without any problems.

Good luck with this purchase and do the extra work and it will pay off.

They look more like your standard earth rocks.

Looks like some quartz mixed in on one of the rocks, but I do see iron on another one.

Have fun searching the area and please stay out of the mine. There is a reason that it is no longer used.

Be sure to check the discarded rocks well and maybe you will get lucky.

Keep us updated.

Is it brass?

Some of it show a brass feature to it, and you can clearly see where the iron rivets have rusted out of it.

I think I noticed a number on the right side of the middle piece so you should cross that number on the internet.

Great find and try to preserve it if you can, as my guess is around the 1860's. 1900's is when they quit with wood centers.

Nice finds and if the nick bothers you please send it to me.

I have yet to find any quarters older than 1950 as of yet,  but I am just getting started in this.

I was near a friend of mine who is a animal Vet and paid him a little visit.

He was able to X-ray my coil with his digital x-ray machine, and it looks like some type of semi-conductor in the coil mold.

Until I can figure out what it is I will not even begin to make a coil that will come close to what some are looking for.

I have a coil winder for motors that I have used in the past, but without knowing what  the semi-conductor is I would not know where to begin.

Does anyone know what this semi-conductor is and what it's function is.

Knowing that information would be a great help to me.

I may have to have a friend x-ray my stock coil and check out the pin out of the connector.

That way I can make something close to what you are talking about.

The connectors I can get through one of my suppliers and I have made several coils in the past.

I will let you know what I can get done in the near future on this.

Nice finds, wish I could of seen the date on the I.H. better.

Great hunt!

Very happy to hear of the happy ending, great work Gerry.

Looks like slag to me.

20 hours ago, 57buick said:

you can search him on facebook "Coin Rings by Sully"

Thanks for the information on that, I think it looks nice and will see what else he does.