Glenn in CO

You and flagman were on a great spot! Very nice collection of bottles and jugs. Thanks! for sharing.👍

1 hour ago, GB_Amateur said:

Here's one that sold on Ebay for $44.  (I would have taken the Merc instead.  Shows what I know.)  Other sites say possibly from the 1930's.  One thing I've noticed about dating things on the internet (especially on Ebay) -- someone gives a date of origin without evidence and others glom onto it like it's fact.  Tokens seem to get resurrected, too.  I have some that I think are from the 1940's and others (same depiction) that are probably '80s or '90s.

This is probably brass.  If you have Wheaties you've found in that same location, compare the patina.  If they typically are this nice after recovery, that's evidence this has been in the ground a similar amount of time (> 40 years).  Most of my Wheaties come with a green scale so I expect my old brass tokens to have a similar property.  (Your low humidity out West seems to be nicer to copper alloy coins than our damp Eastern USA.)

Unusual find, IMO, and a good chance it's Great Depression Era.

BTW, the Eureka Club in greater Denver has a token category in their monthly meetings.  A veteran there may be a good source of info as to whether or not anyone has ever entered one of these.  (A "no" is another good sign it's quite old.  A "lots of them" just the opposite.)

Thanks for the links and information. I think your right about the Great Depression Era time period.

2 hours ago, schoolofhardNox said:

If I were you, I'd cash in on that  😄 Ask for silver, gold and military relics 😉 Never seen one like that before. Looks rather new from the patina. maybe a game piece?

It was found about 10 inches in the ground and came out crusty. I used the Andre pencils to clean the crud off. Still trying to figure out if it was some type of giveaway or what.

That's $1,000,000 worth of good luck!

Found this unusual token at a park this week. Can't find a lot of information on this token.

PART FIVE:

The gold specimens have been soaking in the Whink solution for around two weeks. To speed up the process I will be using baking soda and the steam cleaner. You will use a large amount of baking soda. I usually buy it at Wal-Mart, the last bag I bought was a 12 lb. bag and cost around $9.00.

The baking soda is used to neutralize the acid and helps remove the host rock. The gold specimens that are being cleaned have shale as a host rock with limonite and other small amount of minerals that might be included. Shale and limonite is porous and soaking the gold specimens in the Whink solution for a period of time allows some of it to be absorb. There is no precise amount of baking soda I use for this next step. I normally fill about a half inch in a bottom of a container and mix it with water. I then take a gold specimen and drop it in the baking soda and then there will be a intense reaction which causes the shale, limonite and other minerals to break away from the gold. Depending on how much of the Whink solution was absorbed you will have a reaction with the baking soda for a little to a longer period of time. I usually change out the baking soda mixed water two to three times until there is no visible reaction with the gold specimen.

The next step is using a steam cleaner and applying steam to the gold specimen. The steam cleaner generates about 212 degrees of steam and around 45 lbs of pressure. Using the steam cleaner removes some of the host rock and other minerals that has been weakened by the Whink solution. The results can differ from one gold specimen to another. If the result is not what you wanting to achieve, then the next step is another round soaking in Whink or acid of your choice and then repeat the process with the baking soda and steam cleaner. Also carefully using dental picks to help remove the host rock and other minerals can be used, but use them with extreme caution.

Using Whink, baking soda and steam cleaner on these gold specimens especially the wire gold specimens I can achieve good results with minimal loss of gold and structure to gold specimen. Here are the before (specimens that were soaking in Whink) and after (using baking soda and steam cleaner) pictures:

Gold specimens after soaking in Whink solution.

Gold specimens after using baking soda and steam cleaner.

Area that is circled is the loss of gold from the cleaning process so far. Specimen D needs no further cleaning.

Part six I will show the results of another round of soaking in the Whink solution and using the baking soda and steam cleaner.

PART FOUR:

This picture was on the previous post which shows the gold specimens reaction to Whink for the first time:

The following pictures show the reaction to Whink after a week of soaking:

As you can see there is some reaction to the gold specimens using Whink during that time period, more reaction on some than others. The following picture are the gold specimens taken out of the Whink solution and placed in gold pan for a closer view. Specimen B did not stay intact as I hoped, but that's the way it goes sometime and it shows great progress on the larger piece and smaller piece is almost cleaned. Specimen A doesn't show a lot of progress at this time. Specimen D does show some progress and Specimen C is almost ready for the next stage. All of the gold specimens are placed back into a fresh batch of Whink solution for another soaking.

During the time period in which the gold specimens were soaking there will be some loss of gold to some of the specimens, especially the wire gold specimens. The following shows some of that loss:

Part Five I will discuss the next stage of the cleaning process and where I will use a little more aggressive cleaning technique and achieve better results.

5 minutes ago, Jim_Alaska said:

Glen, your link doesn't go anywhere. It is a "round robin" and only goes to another link.

Thanks I think I fixed it.

31 minutes ago, jasong said:

Technically a strong base should dissolve quartz just like a specific acid like HF. Not saying anyone should try this, but scientifically speaking there is no reason why lye (sodium hydroxide) or maybe even potash heated up to a liquid wouldn't dissolve quartz too since they will rapidly dissolve glass when heated. There may be a chance it'd react with the silver/copper in the gold alloy though?

Maybe a good reason no one ever talks about speci prep with bases, or maybe not. Glenn, you or anyone else ever tried this?

Hey jasong,

Fortunately most of the type of gold specimens I find are in shale or shale with limonite. Some other small quantities of minerals get mixed in specimen and can complicate the cleaning process.

You have a interesting concept of using a strong base. I'm no geologist or chemist and would have to run by someone with the knowledge of the chemicals being used on specific mineral specimens. I know using the weaker acids and heating them improves the cleaning process.

Hopefully someone else will chime in.

2 hours ago, Gerry in Idaho said:

Glad you know what you are doing.  I was already quite impressed with specimen B before the cleaning, but am excited to see how much better it looks afterwards.

Unfortunately using the weaker acids it sometimes can take a long period of time to achieve good results. I've had good results in a couple days to several months. Hopefully the specimens I selected won't be in the several months category.

PART THREE:

Whink will be the acid I use to treat all the gold specimens.

• Specimen A - This specimen will probably the most difficult to treat because of the sphalerite or manganese that appears to be present.
• Specimen B - This specimen I hope to have the host rock remain attached to the gold specimen. The host rock has some fractures so it might possibly fall apart. I placed the specimen upside down in the acid to minimize the exposure to the host rock. You can see the host rock is already reacting to the acid, turning from a clear to light grey color.
• Specimen C - This specimen should clean easily because of the limonite present.
• Specimen D - This specimen should also clean easily because of the calcite or quartz that is present.

As you can see from the picture there is very little reaction to the acid on specimens A,C, and D. Specimen B the acid is working very well.

Part Four you will see the results after a few days and the next steps that are considered on how each specimen will be treated.

1 hour ago, Gerry in Idaho said:

As I have mentioned in times past, I enjoy chasing different types of gold and have learned that in many instances the power of a PI is not the tool of choice.

Now with this new GPX-6000 coming out and Minelabs claim to better sensitivity and depth to small gold, I'm hoping it opens up some more gold for my old hunt sites.

Yes the SDC-2300 and GPZ-7000 could do better than my GPX-5000, TDI, and ATX, but none of them have the Sensitivity as my GM-1000 and EQ-800.

I've got a good feeling about this new 6000.

Oh  would you crush it or keep it?

Gerry,

Have you done a specific gravity test to see how much gold the specimen might have? If it has a large amount of gold vs. quartz, I would treat it with acid and see what the results would be. Treating with acid you could decide whether if it has potential for nice specimen, if doesn't have potential then crush it.

PART TWO:

Some of the chemicals I used for cleaning and prepping gold and mineral specimens are as follow:

• Whink
• Oxalic Acid
• Muriatic Acid
• Iron Out
• Baking Soda

The above chemicals are readily available at hardware stores, lumber stores, Amazon, Walmart, etc. I have access to stronger acids such as hydrofluoric acid in high concentration form but I advise anyone who would like to use this type of acid that it is extremely dangerous and only someone with experience and safety equipment can proceed with caution when using it. Whink has a small concentration of hydrofluoric acid and is safe when used as directed.

Gloves, neoprene apron are needed when handling the above chemicals and face protection, rubber boots if you are not the careful type. Safety should be your number one priority as reaction from the chemicals during the cleaning process can affect your health both short and long term. I always prepare and clean outside, a closed environment is not recommended. Know what type chemical you are using and how it reacts to water, heat and to other chemicals.

Consider creating a work area outside. I have a fish cleaning table mounted on a wooden fence and have water available at the work station. It doesn't have to be fancy, just functional.

The equipment I use for prepping and cleaning gold:

• Assortment of plastic containers ( do not use glass with Whink as it will etch the glass)
• Assortment of gold pans
• Textile Gun
• Steam Cleaner
• Ultrasonic Cleaner
• Dental pics, tweezers, screens, gold sniffer bottle and funnel.

Other equipment that I use when working with certain types of gold or minerals is a crock pot and a bubbler from a aquarium air pump. Crock pot to keep acids warm (remember what acids can have a adverse affect when heated) and a bubbler to keep acids aerated.

Part Three I will discuss what acid I will use and the reaction it has on the gold specimens.

PART ONE:

Pictured below are four gold specimens that I have found and I will discuss what methods I use to remove the host rock revealing mother nature's treasure. I gave each specimen a "letter" designation so you can follow the progress from start to finish on each specimen. Part Two I will discuss the chemicals and equipment I use to clean gold or mineral specimens.

16 hours ago, Gerry in Idaho said:

From your experience is there a better auction site you like and or used with no issues.  Also just as important, was there any you though was a waist of time/effort.

This will be the 1st time we have sold through such assistance, but was told on high end gold art, this usually brings the top dollar?

Gerry,

I haven't sold any of my high dollar gold specimens as yet. Keeping them in a safe deposit box for now until I decide which avenue to take to sell them. My most valuable gold specimens I have , I had them appraised at Collectors Edge in Golden, Colorado to determine there value. What I found when having them appraised was some of the specimens I thought were more valuable (because of the size, weight and character) were not as valuable. The value is determined by it's desirability in the market, the area where it comes from and the rarity of the type of gold specimens. The appraised value in my opinion is what a collector might expect to pay for a specimen in the best scenario. The dealers of course will not pay you what the specimen is appraised at and the auction houses have fees. Another avenue I have not pursued is the gem and mineral shows where you can meet multiple number of dealers and possibly receive different valuations and interest.

I've had discussions with Heritage Auctions and they auction many types of minerals and other collectables. Here is link where past gold specimens have sold and some collectors are currently taking offers. You can create an account (it's free) to see what specimens have sold for. Heritage Auction

Another auction is Holabird Auction. They sell all types of collectables. Here is a link where a 5.03 oz specimens was sold for $6000 that had a estimated value between $7000 to $9000. Holaibird Auction

4 hours ago, Gerry in Idaho said:

He's has quite a few $10K offers a couple in $15K range and one bumped it up to $20K.  I still feel his best bet is to wait until Covid is over and have it at a couple bigger shows to get some publicity.  Then head for the Auction with a Minimum of $25K.

Definitely agree on that strategy, watch out for those seller fees if you go the auction route.

Any serious gold specimen collector would be looking to add that specimen to their collection.

In the mean time just sit back and enjoy it and the memories of finding it!👍

What it is valued as a gold specimen, sure out weighs (no pun attended) what the specimen weighs in at.

Most of our wire and leaf gold specimens are nice size but lack in weight. But I'll take what they are valued at over the weight any day.

That specimen is beauty for sure!

7 hours ago, jasong said:

I think I recognize that. I took a 4500 up one of those slopes towards the top of the hill about 10 years ago and within a couple hours of turning the machine on I started tumbling down a slope and dislocated my shoulder/tore my rotator cuff. Drove home with 1 arm. No gold, just a handful of square nails that were like 10" into shaley bedrock somehow. 

Tried again some years later with a Fors Core, and it broke down within 15 minutes of turning it on, and I had no backup with me stupidly. If I ever go back it's going to be something light and with discrim for sure. 

I was wondering if other people detected those steep slopes at the time, I had only read reports about the place and never had yet to meet or talk to anyone who detected there so I wasn't sure where to look. I thought I was being pioneering climbing up there. Nope, ya'll had me beat by a long time. 

Hey Jasong.

If that is the same area you were detecting, I and my wife have been prospecting that area since 1985. I, my wife and father were fortunate to meet Walston (Tim) Queen who had been prospecting in that are since the 1940's and he found some very nice wire and leaf gold specimens over the years. Tim was very generous with his knowledge of the area and we have been very productive because of it. Unfortunately Tim passed away in 1988 and never saw what we were rewarded with the wire and leaf gold specimens that we found with detectors starting in 1990. Somehow maybe he is looking down grinning and guiding us to the next specimen.

Good times and memories!

Walston (Tim) Queen

Me, my father and Tim with a highbanker:

Gerry,

Your backyard and my backyard are pretty much the same terrain wise. Have the same experience with how a PI and the VLF respond to the type of gold specimens I find. Very interested on your reports on how the GPX-6000 responds to the different type of gold specimens you have.

Those quartz cocoon gold specimens are outstanding!

Working on some gold specimens now and will have a write up on how they were cleaned.

Randy Smith of Treasure Electronics who was our distributor at the time:

 My wife on a steep tailing pile:

Chuck

You're welcome!

The weather here in southern Colorado isn't any better. We hit -20 below this week and I have only been out once this month.

Did have a nice January though, go figure!

Glenn

The information in this video was made in November 2020.

I was 22 and bought a Compass Yukon from my brother-in-law. Bought a A.H. Pro Backpacker for my wife three years later and both of us have been detecting and prospecting for 46 years.

Very cool pipe bowl and Indian artifacts. Glad to hear that tornado missed you. Thanks for sharing!👍

Very nice nugget, great crevice tool, congrats!👍

100% AUTHENTIC Santa Monica METAL DETECTING find CUBE #2 Oct 20 Pandemic Signed