schoolofhardNox

My goals are to do my best and not be lazy (how can I be, I have an Equinox- LOL) dig it all machine. My other goal is to dive deeper into chemical cleaning of my beach silver and start to display the gold and silver rings. Generally to group, clean organize and label my better beach finds. Also on the list is to visit some new beaches and venture out a little bit farther. Also to sell a lot of equipment that I do not use and repair the equipment I do use. Some deep woods cellar hole hunting is on the list but not mandatory. I want to learn to enjoy the time detecting more and not be worried if I don't find much that day. This year is year 49 for the number of years I have been detecting, so my goal is to not get hurt before I get to 50

9 hours ago, Alluminati said:

That is a gorgeous old ring and a spectacular hunt all way around. Wow, silvers, vintage confectionery, old key etc. 

You know as time goes on, I see more and more how useful a GPX could be to someone like me in the north east.
This thread pretty much ends my internal debate, I am going to get one. 

Thanks for sharing happy new year.

Thanks.  If you look around and verify that you have a real GPX, you can get a good deal on one. I think I paid around $2460.00 on E bay. Are you in the states or Canada? I'm in western MA. If we are close enough we can hunt a beach and you can try it out. We can share the Pringles

Last week I visited my favorite gold beach and hit an area at the end of the day that produced 5 silvers, a couple of war nickels and 8 wheat pennies. Much better than the limited amount of clad I found the first part of that day. It was posted in the Equinox forum under Equinox and EMI. Today I hit that same area with the GPX instead. Being a holiday, I figured there would be limited train runs, and for most of the day that was the case. I ran the GPX as hot as I could handle and put on the 12 1/2" DD coil to get the most depth I could get. It worked! Had a great hunt. Some oddities for the day included a nice old Ford key, a twisty tie (bread tie) that fooled me for a bit, as it is the brightest gold foil that I have ever seen. Thought I had a gold chain  But the oddest thing I found (or actually re-found) was a deep (18+ " ) remains of a Pringles potato chip can. I found it a while back and the chips still looked like the day they were made. I never took a picture of them and left most of the remainder of the can and chips in the hole. Well, today I came across it again and took them home. Unbelievable what they label as food these days! As for the goods, I found 21 Wheats (one wrapped in red cloth from a change purse?), a bunch of silver coins including some war nickels and a W/L half. The best find of the day was the unmarked gold ring. Gold beach gave me some yellow today!  As for depth on the coins?  Nothing was shallower than 9-10" And 2 of the Mercs came in as a repeatable ground mineral signal. If you use a GPX you will know what faint ground variations sound like, I dug a lot of those today and most disappeared when you took some sand of the top. But 2 of them got louder and I knew I had a small fringe target. What I was surprised at was, that both of those dimes came in at a measured 18". I used a pin pointer to locate them and dug the last inch by hand. I wanted to make sure I did not drop the target back into the hole while digging deeper. I needed to see just how deep this machine can go with no EMI present.  I am still in awe of how good that GPX 5000 is. So, a great start to the New Year and hopefully I can count on the GPX/Equinox combination to handle any beach conditions I come across.

One of the reasons I come to this forum is that it is not like all the other forums. Maybe most are dying a slow death, but I feel an upswing in real forums for 2019. Eventually the glitz of the mob mentality you see on those other forums, designed mostly for profit and not content, will wane this year. I myself am tired of being forced into believing someone else's version of how to detect and what machine to buy. Enjoy you machine, and especially your time detecting. Eventually age gets us all and I would not want to be having regrets later for not doing what I wanted to do. Thanks for having this forum Steve!!! Good luck to everyone this coming year. I look forward to you stories.

21 hours ago, Alluminati said:

My Etrac was really hot on chatty days at a particular site, so much so that I did not want to perform a noise cancel.

This is anecdotal at best, but there could be something to it, the one night I recall getting 4-6 good targets, (Silver coins, musket balls large cents etc.) this was after pounding the site for a good year previously.
These wern't great shallow targets that appeared out of no-where, rather deep fringe targets that gave off questionable, yet positive non-ferrous ID. These targets would disappear if you tried to clean the machine up much. (Or tune out the EMI at that particular site it seems.)

There' s a fine line on having the right sensitivity to hear the deep, iffy targets. Also having some luck in hitting the target with the best, most responsive part of the coil helps. Add moisture, EMI and minerals into the picture and it's no surprise that we can find deep targets in places we pounded. You must have just had the best balance between low sensitivity and too much sensitivity. I've always pushed my machines into the red a bit, and like hearing a bit of chatter. But too much and it makes it harder to hear the real signal. I always thought the E trac  was a great deep seeker. It really made old pounded parks come alive for many. For me, it did rather well on colonial cellar holes.

19 hours ago, Chase Goldman said:

Yeah, I am sure silent EMI wreaks havoc with depth performance.  Also, at the beach, I was surprised at how much depth loss there is just going from 20 to 15 on sensitivity.

I guess there is a price to pay for stability. One of my biggest disappointments is by the time I really get to know a machine, they come out with a better one.  Then I have to re-learn all the new ways to get maximum performance from it.

So today I visited my favorite gold beach. It did not comply with my requests  What I did notice today is how the EMI from a very close train effects the performance of the Equinox. I was using Beach 1 and usually run my sensitivity at 22. Before, during and after a train passing I have to drop sensitivity to 20. It then quiets down enough to hunt....BUT, quiet as it is, I believe the depth is affected very much. I hunted from 8AM to 2PM (lots of train passes), as that is the bulk of the commuter and cargo runs. The second picture shows some clad. That was all the good targets during that EMI cycle (6 hrs.). When the trains start to have large gaps between runs, (from 2-4pm), and there is no major EMI emitted from the rails, then you can see in the first picture the results. Lots of wheats, some copper memorials, 2 war nickels, and 4 silver dimes and a silver quarter. Most of those coins were 8-12" deep.  So today it seems that my depth and ability to hear the deeper targets with EMI present, is very compromised even though the machine runs smooth. I always new EMI cuts performance, but to see it first hand is an eye opener.

29 minutes ago, FWest said:

I don't recall if it was here or another website that posted about the temperature operating range?? I can confirm that if the temp is below 15F the EQ will not work properly. 

I went out early this morning to catch the low tide and found out. Once I warmed it up all was normal. Also the Sennheiser LL ear buds were not happy either. FYI. 

Looks like we both got out early today. It wasn't as cold as your day, but still around 28 degrees F. When I turned on the Equinox it did it's normal starting sequence, and then was ready to detect but the screen was completely blank . About 4 seconds later it woke up and worked fine. I've had the E Trac, the CTX and the GPX in cold weather, but they were better at tolerating the cold, although the E Trac screen did not like it much. I beach hunt once a week all winter long, so I hope it stays warmer than 25 or I may only be using the GPX.

Nice job. The numbers they quote really depends on how old the site is. If it does not go back to the buffalo era (say the 50's taking into account and estimating how long buffalos stayed in circulation), then your numbers would reflect that. If you are hunting an area that was not hit before and went back to the 1900's, then your V and Buff count would definitely go up. Gold is a different story. It can be anywhere, from any era. In a hammered park, that ratio probably reflects the fact that a lot of buffalo nickels have been dug over the years and only a few may turn up from time to time. My ratio on the beach is lower than 200-250. But concentrating on a certain block of numbers can show you just how important it is to think outside the box.  Lucky you tried that. That ring is a beauty!

2 hours ago, Daniel Tn said:

Just my opinion...I feel the power cord that goes from the battery to the detector is the weakest link in the whole detector system.  You can just breath on the thin metal around the plug prongs and bend it.  

The factory Minelab ones are super fragile. If you barely bump them on something, they are going to bend.  Last week I was hooking myself up to go detecting and the cord end hit the ground.  Not pavement mind you...just grass and dirt.  I picked it up and saw it had bent it!  I luckily had a pair of needle nose in the truck and was able to halfway bend it back in shape to where I could hook it up but I was worried about it breaking.  This isn't the first time this has happened with previous GPX models.  Anyway...I decided to go after market on the cord.  I bought a CoilTek and it came this morning.  To my dismay...it too is very thin and came out of the shipping package bent!  Why can't they make those things a little tougher!??  Such a critical part that is made so flimsy and cheap.  I know a lot of guys go to the Gold Screamer pack and eliminate the big cord all together.  I tried one and did not like the sound quality so I went back to the regular setup.  I don't even mind being tethered to the battery...just wish the ends of the power cord were beefier.  I was at a DIV one year where a guy dropped his cord in the hotel parking lot and he bent his so bad that he couldn't straighten it well enough to use. His hunt was shot because of a small incident.

LOL. That happens to me every time I go out. It hits the ground and bends or hits anything while in the trunk and bends. Needle nose pliers are your best friend. The easiest fix would be some kind of plastic protector cap that attaches on both ends of the cable and covers the ends pieces while in transit. They can just dangle, attached to the cable, when you are using the cable. Then put the caps back on and it should be good enough. No one is going to change the design unfortunately.

1 minute ago, steveg said:

Gentlemen...

I am still pondering this idea (of "telescopic" counterweights) a bit more; as I said, I ruled it out initially, due to the lack of telescopic distance available, AND to the fact that the counterweights would have to be longer, due to the smaller-diameter tubes.  

I calculated how much longer of a tube would be needed to achieve the same amount of weight; I can get roughly 8 oz. of lead pellets in a roughly 5" tube that is the diameter of the upper shaft.  I calculated that it would take about a 6 1/4" long tube, the diameter of the lower shaft, to get that same 8 oz. of lead pellets inside.  Hmm.  Not TOO terribly much longer.

I know this is taking this thread WAY off topic, but -- let's say there was only that 1 1/2" or so of telescopic ability -- i.e. not that much.  Would it still be a better idea, in your minds, to attach/detach a slightly longer tube, via a clamping cam lock, versus unscrewing tubes via threaded connectors?

Just curious...

Steve

I see what you are getting at with your design. Skimming through a lot of post doesn't let me digest them all very well  I originally envisioned your counter balance to look like a small tube with a small ball on the end of it. Now I realize that is a tube filled with weight (no ball on the end). So I can see why the extension length may be an issue. For some reason I just thought of how some digging trowels  have that 1-2" ball on the end.

3 hours ago, fredmason said:

So, what the heck is it???

fred

3 hours ago, Tometusns said:

Appears to be an old pocket knife to me. A really cool one. Nice find Schoolofhardnox! (If it's not an old pocket knife it's cool whatever it is?)

Oops. Sorry, it is a pocket knife. A very slim one. Probably a pretty sharp looking knife in it's day.

Steve, Thanks for the information. I did have one idea on the Equinox shafts you are designing. I think I read that one version will have a screw on counter balance weight on the end of the machine. Did you ever consider the counterweight should not be screwed on, but have a cam lock to be able to slide it on the shaft to change the balance point to accommodate all weights of coils. It would be nice to be able to adjust that weight to suit your detecting situations if needed. Maybe that won't work, but I figured I'd throw it out there.

This weeks beach hunt was split between the GPX and Equinox. The GPX scored 5 deep silvers, but this item is the reason I love the way the Equinox ID's targets. To some, they may not like the jumpy numbers on mixed metal targets, but I appreciate the added information, as I always like to be the one making the final decision to dig or not. The GPX would have read this as Iron, especially at the depth it was. But the Equinox read the copper content as well as the iron. Since I run with no discrimination, the detector sees both metals and reports them as such. That is a good thing. But I also like to run my iron volume on zero, that way I am not swayed by the iron sound to possibly not dig it. The iron numbers still flash to give me that information, I just prefer not to hear it. That makes these type of targets easier to examine. If you have not tried you Equinox that way, give it a try. For me it is one of those perks of a well designed machine.

What an adventure that turned out to be. Maybe they strung them coins as a savings and hung them somewhere inside their structure? Great hunt.

9 hours ago, phrunt said:

nah, its a notch far higher up than the first one, Park 1 does have 1 blocked out from memory.

Oh yeah, top center. What's that like 18 or 19 notched out?

2 minutes ago, phrunt said:

I wonder why he had something notched out, even after a he said he did a factory reset there was still a notched out segment.  Not a bad video though, I do like the little 6"  

 

I'm not sure if park 1 has the #1 set as rejected so you do not find small foil or hot rocks. I haven't done much dirt detecting lately, but it may come that way. Maybe some park guys can fill us in on that notch

.

3 minutes ago, Tnsharpshooter said:

Wish he would have turned biggest coil around when testing,

I think the 6" is that way too. I'm kind of surprised that it did so well going that direction and not cutting across both D sections of the coils

Always like his videos. I watch a lot of the beach ones.

Not sure how that would work. I always assumed if you go bankrupt, that's was the end of it, and bankruptcy laws protected your personal assets. So maybe they could sue the company but only recoup what the company owns?? Hopefully someone will do side work on repairs and maybe buy out the rest of the machines and spare parts. It's very sad to see a company go out of business with such a loyal following if that is what is going to happen.

Hi Steve, I'm not trying to diss anyone for selling carbon fiber rods, and that is why I did not state where I bought them. Here are a couple of pictures of the breaks.  You can see one upper GPX tube is extremely thin and that is why it snapped when I put some pressure on it. If it wasn't for the adjustment hole being a weak point, it probably would have survived being used that way. The other pictures are of the lower shaft for the GPX. I bought a bunch of them so that I could have all my coils available without changing them over. That one is thicker, but split just the same. I'm going to put this statement out there as just my opinion, but I can't think of many inventions in recent history that were supposed to be great, only to have them cheapened out before they get to market. I agree, carbon fiber is a very strong material, I'm just not sure the carbon fiber I received was like the original versions that were developed. I really comes down to suppliers. I'm confident you have tested your supplier's batch, but others probably shop by price. Now for the CTX shaft ..... Here is how you break one. Put that 15x17 coil on it, wade into the water just where the waves break onto the beach, swing it relatively quickly (as quick as the waves allow) and in a while it will snap directly where it exits the machine itself. I found a picture of that from 2016. And for good measure I've thrown in a picture of the never ending snapping handles on the GPX. They can not handle swinging a 12x15 coil as your primary coil. These are examples of what can go wrong. There a tons of examples of what has gone right, and was designed brilliantly,  performed like advertised, etc.... The good far out way these issues pictured here. 

.

I think that is where I sent my CTX to have it repaired. I sent it to PA, so I'm assuming it was there. He did a terrific job replacing the whole back end of the machine along with the screen and a lower shaft I think. Wonderful job, great communication and the price and turnaround was decent. I was very happy with that repair, and have only good feelings about that transaction!

My lower rods (4 of them) are starting to split at the top. My upper rod snapped on me when I tried to use it as a tool to push some reeds down flat. My fault on that one, but it made me notice how fragile the top rod is because of the adjustment holes. It snapped right at one of the holes. In reality, I was not pushing the reeds very hard. Bottom line is they are too thin and have very little strength to then. I will not buy anymore carbon fiber rods from anyone again. The only reason I wanted to try them was that my stock rod for the GPX did not lock anymore I have 2 of them and both do not lock anymore, so I thought I would spring for the carbon fiber.

1 hour ago, cjc said:

I've had mine fixed since new cell and all but first time in--seemed properly seated but fifteen minutes--full of water.  Cant help thinking that new bulkkhead and all--it's the old clips; that are worn.  Ive put a sliver of plastic in each side of the cell (Akalikne, not the second burnt out rechargeable) to make for a tighter seal.  Not an impressive upgrade at all.  Very hard pressed to trust this machine in the water now.   Just can't seem to find a consistent way to keep it dry.   Shame great performer.

cjc

That is my dilemma too. I just had it repaired and want to sell it but only if the buyer is aware that I can't vouch for it. It is an awesome machine on the beach, but I can't trust it in the water. I won't buy another rechargeable for it. But if I did, it would only be for dry use. I would use the alkaline pack for the water hunts. It's a lot cheaper to replace that pack. Kind of sad that the flagship machine, for me at least, was never waterproof long enough to enjoy it.

I think my Deep Tech Vista Gold says not to turn on the detector without a coil attached, as it can damage the unit. But honestly, I may do that anyways