CPT_GhostLight

Congrats on the silver necklace! Finding with your eyes works as well as finding with your ears... sometimes even better, well done! ?

6 hours ago, UKD2User said:

I agree, I don't like lowering AR much below 5.

Maybe I'm just lucky, I find it's very unusual to have EMI so bad - over such a large area - and having fairly benign soil/sand generally - that I need to "detune" the machine.

Something that all manufacturers could usefully do is get someone on their engineering teams with a deep understanding of psycho-acoustics.  I think that, given the laws of physics and the current state of the art, the real progress yet to be made is in helping the user "hear" good targets better, at whatever depth, than the "trash".

e.g. this kind of thing: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Auditory_masking

Great article, UKD2User! I feel like we're getting closer by the introduction of many more audio types and user controllable variables. I was in a nail bed today and just lowering the iron volume allowed me to hear some deeper masked coins well enough to dig them out even with my Audio Response at 3.

Congrats on the treasure trove of glassware! That looks like it was a lot of work, well done!

17 hours ago, bigtim1973 said:

Thanks for all of the great responses. I appreciate everyone's input. 

I may try that 1.0 as it seems from to allow that few more tweaks and pluses to the audio response of targets before they are dug. I also like the idea of the break point between where ferrous and non ferrous targets begin. As  i have dug small lead bullets from the buck and ball civil war era previously near the bottom end of the ferrous spectrum. 

Thanks again for everyone's great response. Exactly what I was looking for!! 

 

I'd recommend V1.1 over 1.0. V1.0 was kind of a loose cannon of an update and V1.1 corrected those problems.

Congrats on the jewelry and the gold rings, Compass! You're back with a bang, well done! ?

Personally, I like V1.10 over V0.71, and I really liked V0.71. The main reasons for me are the new features:

High Sqr audio is kind of a mix of PWM and Square audio which gives me the best of both worlds IMHO and really has to be heard to be appreciated.

Adjustable Max High Frequency setting (14kHz, 24kHz, or 40kHz) for all the programs adds another two more dimensions to each FMF program by changing the relationships between the high and low frequencies and bandwidth used in each. It gives you even more control over difficult ground and can help focus your search patterns for specific targets.

Full Tones has beeen greatly improved (again in my opinion) and now has an adjustable FT Offset to change the break zone between ferrous and non-ferrous targets. This can improve the way deep targets, as well as low & mid-conductor targets sound.

FE TID now allows you to show or hide ferrous ID numbers.

All adjustable tone breaks in 2, 3, 4, 5, and even Full Tones have adjustable volume settings for each break so you can set how loud or soft you want specific target tone groups to sound.

I'm sure I left out something, but V1.1 gives you so much more control to an already great platform. I don't feel like I'm missing anything that V0.71 would have found, and quite possibly I'm finding more with V1.1. ?

2 hours ago, bigtim1973 said:

Good info. I saw paystreak doing that as well in his videos. 

 

By chance did you try the mono program in that bad emi area and if so did it tame it down any or was it still a nuisance?

I did try the 17kHz Single and it was chattery too, but I did not try the other single frequencies.

Really well done, relicmeister, that's a rare find in deed!

I haven't done saltwater beaches or surf with the D2 yet, but for my summer hunting on land and lakesides, I got the WSA-II phones and use that puck paired to remote, connected to my favorite eardbuds with the audio adapter, and connect it to the back of my hat in a small pouch. The WSA-IIs are rainproof (not waterproof), but I've had no problems so far in rain or the ocassional spash. The WSA-II puck is a little smaller and lighter than the WS6 too so it's lighter on the head. ?

That's a Hell Yeah for sure! Well Done NCt! ?

21 hours ago, Carolina said:

This is a copy of my original drawing that someone has added pin #6 as positive. The first I saw of it was a post from Midalake. It’s been my finding in life that sometimes you think you know and other times you know you know. It has also been my finding that it is foolish to make a move when you think you know. Especially with electronics. That being said I can tell you most of the assumptions are incorrect. Pin #6 is positive as shown but it is pin #1 which is the negative charging pin that gives 5.2 volts DC. In my opinion, I would not attempt to improve upon the electronics or mechanical aspects of the Deus ll. I would only advise to learn to adapt as others have done. Take care everybody. On a side note Google M8 4 pin connectors for your plug.

Thank you Carolina and I completely agree with you.

Everybody should be aware that this could void your warranty if you screw something up doing wiring mods!

22 hours ago, ColonelDan said:

CPT,  You bring up a good point regarding test targets.  Below is the "Test Kit"  I take to the beach.  Each target can slide along that rope so I can separate them for individual testing or place them close to the other one(s) for separation/unmasking testing.  These examples/samples pretty much cover what we're most likely to find on our tourist beaches.

Clad quarter, pull tab, 10K ring

Bottle cap, 925 ring, tent stake

Glad you brought that up.  You just may have helped some fellow detectorists...especially new ones to the game...by giving them a good idea!  

Good job CPT

 

 

 

Thanks, Colonel, that was taught to me by Richard, one of my mentors and detecting buddies in my detecting club who always carries a dime and a nickel to test before hunting. 

That's a great idea for a portable test rig and it looks like you got all the bases covered. ?

19 minutes ago, Rattlehead said:

Awesome! Thanks guys.

Full disclaimer, I have not tested these myself, but Carolina figured out the headphone pins while building his dive rig. 

21 minutes ago, F350Platinum said:

Which pins are for charging? Thanks Cap'n. And Carolina. ?

That I don't know for sure without hooking the multimeter up to test it. Looks like a project for this weekend. ?

If I had to guess, I'd think that pin 6 is VDC+ and pin 3 may be VDC-, but DONOT QUOTE ME for those that are unfamiliar with electronics, because the wrong wiring can damage your Deus 2!!!

I'm sure that someone here has already determined the pin assignments and will hopefully share that info. ?

Great report, Colonel! ?

I imagine Harps was using V0.63 or V0.71 (Big Numbers) back then and it looks like that is one of the things that has been addressed in V1.1.

That's why I always carry a nickel and dime to test the numbers that day after Ground Balance and Frequency Scan (if needed) wherever I hunt. Of course the TIDs will vary a bit in the ground, but that gets me in the ballpark. ?

On 7/11/2023 at 1:31 PM, Rattlehead said:

The one thing that really irritates me about my Deus 2 is how fiddly it is to connect the charging cable to the remote. I know I don't necessarily have to tighten it down to get a connection, but just having to fiddle with lining up the pins is annoying to me. Surely there's a better way. I'm assuming only a couple of those pins are for charging. So, my question for anyone with knowledge of electronics is, would something like this be possible? .. and if so, do you think this is something other users would be interested in? 

 

The cap would remain on the remote at all times so that when a charge is needed, it would be as simple as connecting the magnets.

I don't know much about this sort of thing, so this may be just another one of my goofy ideas that's either too much trouble or not even possible. It just came to mind after I saw something similar for USB-C connections like this one:

 

 Thoughts?

I believe @Carolina came up with the pin assignments while making custom headphone connectors and probably knows where to find the stock connector plugs as well. I think it would be fairly easy to 3D print a magnetic dongle to work with that magnetic USB cord. If it slows down here enough, I may explore that more. 

Congrats on the bracelet finds, but sorry to hear about the Nox flooding. Hopefully Minelab will take care of that for you.

Well, I'm not a relics expert by any means, but if there are shiney spots between the rusty places on the original surface, that could indicate the higher chromium content of stainless steel making it a more recent (early 1900s) bearing. Older steel bearings should look similar to the look of other steel artifacts of the period, like gun barrels, etc., however there could also be indications of pressure contact from heavy loads like from wagon wheels, locomotive parts, etc. that could make places on the bearing look shiny. It's really hard to tell for sure without access to an XRF machine. When in doubt, I keep unknown artifacts in a box to check out at a later date just in case they turn out to be something unexpected.

Steel ball bearings have been used since the 1850s, so it's still possible those are of the correct period. If they're stainless steel, they'd be from about WWI or newer. You might want to look at them closer.

Nice haul and congrats on the silver ring, well done!

Stay cool in the surf but be careful. My last trip to Melbourne I found a 9 foot Hammerhead on the beach. That changed my mind about getting in the water that day. ?

https://www.detroitnews.com/story/news/local/michigan/2023/07/06/armored-truck-flips-over-on-michigan-freeway-spilling-money-everywhere/70389533007/#:~:text=An armored truck dropped bags of money along,before losing control and overturning into a ditch.

Yep, I got it. I believe your WS6 with V1.1 will work with the V1.0 remote, or at least I've heard something to that effect.

Also, you can still roll back either remote to V0.71 and try the WS6 with V1.1 to see if it will work. It may, because in slave mode, the WS6 should just be sending and receiving audio, which should still be the same across all the software versions.

I don't know if anyone else here has tried that, but it seems like it should work in theory.

This is another teachable moment from the Gary. I won't give away the twist. Enjoy! ?

You can pair the WS6 to both D2s, but you might need to update the V0.71 remote to V1.1 for it to work correctly, assuming you updated your WS6 to V1.1 also. I don't know for sure if it would cause a problem or not because I haven't tried to pair the WS6 on two remotes with different software versions. I don't think it would hurt anything to try it.