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oneguy

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  1. 1 hour ago, aerospace guy said:

     

                      Apologize if this should be in another area of DProsp...you can move it Steve. Don't you also use the 24K and did I see a post/pics of many small pieces you found in Alaska with it and your method of scraping a few inches away at a time on a slope to uncover more and more small pieces? was this to give the detector more depth..exposure to gold by removing several inches at a time? 

    Sometimes you just gotta do it the old timers way and just dig.  These are always on the quad or in the PU for when I need them, note rare earth magnet on the rake.  Sorry for adding to the highjack but felt it's important.....

    tools.JPG

  2. Those chart #'s may or may not be "accurate" but , if not?, they are close enough to get the point across about the differences in target responses to different types of pennies.  I no longer coin shoot but back in my etrac days my IH penny #'s all but came to a stop compared to my 22yrs swinging a Tesoro.  Reason being my Tesoro didn't give me much info, if it beeped you dug so the IH's came, along with everything else (crap).  With the etrac I had tons of info to aid me in deciding to dig or move on.  As I was more into deeper older coins and already had a good collection of IH pennies from the Tesoro days I didn't really care to dig them although etrac got a few.  On the etrac the IH's ring up there real close to the zinc penny #'s.  My time is valuable whether coin shooting or nugget shooting so to manage my time better on coins I quit digging IH and zinc #'s.  I'd leave all the zinc for the "other" guys...lol but sacrificed a few IH's in the process, no biggy.  This chart is a good thing for those folks maybe not up to snuff on coin content and/or might care to manage your dig time to focus on what you really want to find?  I used to laugh to myself a lot about leaving all the zinkers for the rest of the crowd.....lol

    Good job on the chart....!!!!!

  3. I sold light fixtures online for a number of years and lost a few sales to Alaska due to shipping but also managed to make a few sales regardless of the costs.  Same for Canadian customers but usually my Canuk customers lived within 100 mi of the border and/or had relatives in the lower 48, ship to the relatives and the canuks haul it back over the border.  When I cut timber up on Chicagof Is. saw parts were expensive being on the island and when I returned home I had to send my crated up saws/tools to Seattle from Juneau on Foss Tug then by truck to Spokane and pick up there then to Idaho, PITA....spendy even back then.  Tuff all over on everything.....

  4. 50 minutes ago, GotAU? said:

     

    I guess what it comes down to is if you are only going to be prospecting for gold, the gold monster is probably a good choice for you, but if you think you might want to try some other types of detecting, especially if you don’t live close to a good prospecting area, you may find yourself wanting to go swing for other things besides shiny stuff and will be more happy with something like the multipurpose  Nox.

    GotAU summed it up best....

     

  5. Thanks guys....  Tried to delete my OP but couldn't.  After posting I realized that most likely, in order to save some $, I'm gonna have to do a custom job myself like Wes posted above.  Just so happens I have a brand new mall handle laying around the shop I can hack up......

  6. Looking to replace my 18" Apex handle with a 24" and was on their website, went to order up the 24" @ $26+ and upon checkout they wanted $22 to ship...lol  NOT GONNA HAPPEN!!!!

    Really didn't want to head to local hardware and start "sizing" axe handles then having to sand, etc. for a tight fit...blah blah, etc.  Anyone know of an online dealer that might sell a handle for something reasonable?  $50 for a 2 foot handle ain't happening.  Long shot I know....but thought I'd try?

  7. I could be wrong but the way I understand the differences, at least between DD and concentric design, is that there is better coverage at DEPTH with a knife U shape slice on a DD where the concentric coverage is like a cone with the smaller pointed coverage at DEPTH but better full round coverage on the shallow end.  I like the way concentric has pin-point accuracy and can pick it's way thru some masking targets but in the end (at least for coin shooting) I've preffered the DD for it's coverage advantage in the depth dept.  My question would be...why would a person want a concentric with less coverage on the deep end when every year whatever type target you chase generally gets deeper every year because the easy more shallow stuff has been had??? Never tried concentric on gold nuggs.......

    I could very well be wrong so JMO's............

  8. 1 hour ago, Jonathan Porter said:

     

    As an example I’ve this past season taken on board your comments about running your machine flat out, something I have always discounted as nigh on crazy, because of that walleyed view I was missing a vital piece of information that you’d provided with your insane settings suggestions....... do you know what that is/was? Volume!! 🥴

    I totally missed that you run your volume low. Well what a turn around that has been for some of my approaches to certain aspects of my detecting when the conditions allow for it, of course I’ve tweaked the concept to suit my particular tastes but the whole thing has coalesced out of your personal approach to detecting and willingness to share your ideas, so thanks mate. 😊 

    JP

     

    Hope I get this right(?)  You run hot but turn volume down way low and I assume that helps keep chatter down but allows targets to stand out better?  Interesting....

    PS... I'm thinking 6000, not gpz

    Thanks guys

  9. I use regular old s.o.s pads and if the nickel isn't pitted too bad I'll sometimes take it a step further and scrub by hand with a powder abrasive like Comet or Bon-Ami, etc.

    Good tip for nickle knockin:  Most parks, schoolyards, any public grass has been manicured with many fertilizers/chemiclas and I've found some of these that the nickels are just way too pitted to waste my time on, not to mention TONS of pulltabs.  Hit the curb strips and any private yards for nickels, less pulltabs, and most folks don't use chemicals, etc. on their curb strips so usually much better condition nickels.....

  10. Back in my coin shootin days my last 2 seasons I tried to focus on nickels more than silver as silver was getting a little bit slim pickens.  I enjoyed the hell outta "nickel knockin" because most the guys scrim out anything in the beaver tail and/or square tab range....so there's plenty of nickels still out there!!!!  Plenty of v's and buffs laying around and also the occasional gold ring! Last 2 seasons knocking nickels my average was between 200-300/season with about 10% being war, buffs, or V's.

    Take those worthless old buffs and V's and scrub the piss outta them with steel wool to clean them up...you won't hurt them as they are dug nickels and enviremental damage, pitting, etc. has made them worth about 5 cents anyways.  Here's my last season of "keeper" nickels, you can see that after the steel wool they look a little better than a brown turd....

    P1200007[1].JPG

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