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midalake

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  1. 1 hour ago, Steve Herschbach said:

    I have to admit to chickening out on this. My Nugget Buster NDT headphones have one mode switch, and they are sealed units. That means if I loosen that nut I may not be able to get it back on tight with no way to access the backside of the switch. The same issue would exist putting on a boot. I can't really determine the size or thread type accurately without taking it apart, unless somebody has some brilliant suggestion. The worst part is according to DetectorPro there is no standard, so I am not sure my switch is the same as what you would have anyway. I am open to suggestions but I don't think loosening that nut is a good idea at the moment.

    detectorpro-nugget-buster-ndt-mode-switch.jpg

     

    All it takes is to hold on the stem and work with tweezers. I have put boots on many Minelab Sovereign units. Also the boots I am referring to push over the toggle part and have a small hole in them to do so. My Sovereign units are down south as well or I would do a picture. 

    Dave

     

  2. 11 hours ago, Steve Herschbach said:

    I’ll look at my NDTs tomorrow, should be the same. Kind of crazy DetectorPro can’t tell you!?!

    Yes I agree. I spoke to the head guy. Stated they just buy them in batches, and has no idea in thread size. When I looked on ebay there are different sizes. Both in SAE and Metric. Just figured I was not the first one asking and someone would know. I have two sets of Black Widows. My older set, the switches are frozen from the salt air. Just wanted to protect my newer pair.

    Thanks Dave 

  3. 10 minutes ago, 2Valen said:

    I am sorry that I don't know the size , however some auto part stores can measure them and tell you the size.

    Without seeing them I have no idea.

    You should be able to use a tape measure to find out what size they are by placing the part on the tape and finding the size that way.

    Sorry I could not be much help.

    That would be a good idea if my phones were not in Mexico.

  4. 10 hours ago, GB_Amateur said:

    There is a potential downside to this and that's the discomfort from tight fitting headphones.  I did OK in 3 hours on Friday but in the past I've had trouble on longer hunts.  Part of the trick is to get the headphones positioned exactly right where they aren't trapping any part of the ear, are properly centered, headband in a comfortable position, eyeglass arms not trapped in the wrong place, etc.  Of course setting the sound volume is important, too, but there are multiple ways to do that, at least with some detectors, and the Pro Golds have individual ear attenuation adjustment pots.

    Yes if you have big ears, some of the headphone pads do not have enough room/ OR If they get older and lose some of their cushy-ness they could make contact with your ears.  Have in the past, cut plastic shims to slide between the pad and hard phone part to get more separation for the ear.  Your mileage may very on this. 

    Dave

  5. On 10/15/2019 at 4:54 PM, GB_Amateur said:

     However, using the WM-08 wireless module (connected to the headphones with the same adapter) the speaker is bypassed and the sound in the headphones is loud and clear.  In fact it is noticeably louder than with the Garrett MS-2 headphones.  Although I didn't check my White's ProStars, in the past they performed similarly to the MS-2's.  The sound quality doesn't seem quite as clean but the Pro Golds certainly have enough sound quality to work well in the field.  I wonder if the volume difference has to do with impedence matching.

    Anyway, bottom line is don't throw out your Original Pro Golds if you have converted to an Equinox user.

    It was I who did some of the original reporting on the Sunrays and Black Widows. 

    They do "kind of" work in the WM08. However if you use them long enough you will here little pops and clicks. Something is still NOT aligned right. Best still to get them modified, or a cable that will allow use of any headphones, or headphone specific [made for the Nox]

    Dave 

  6. On 10/9/2019 at 12:51 PM, dewcon4414 said:

    Heres one id like to see what others have found.    Today i was playing around on the beach with the Nox.   Havent had much time with it  so i thought id see how the F2 was working.    That got me playing around with disc.    What i noticed in disc ...... as i swung the coil it was knocking out the ferr like it should in disc....... HOWEVER i was getting these -1 and -2 iron blurps occasionally.  I also noticed it knocked out the TID for iron except those digits giving the blurps..... oddly.    Im an AM hunter on the beach.   What i did was ..... turned down the volume to 0 for targets 0 and below.    It seemed to work just like disc...... with two exceptions.   1.. you never got ANY sound from those -1 and -2 targets.   2..... the TID was still reading all the iron targets.    So.......out in the water i went hunting in AM target volume for iron set at 2.   Then id switch and go back...... doing it with disc....... then with iron volume at 0 using AM.   Far less noise from mineral...... but i got the same non-ferr targets just as clear.    I know people have asked if there is a difference between disc iron and turning the volume down to 0.   To me there seems to be some near target ID bleed that can create unwanted noise at that 0 disc point.

     

    Hi Dew

    I still hunt in one tone [always will] for many reasons. Clive I believe writes about this to quiet the machine. I have not turned the iron bin down yet because I am still gaining confidence in TID identification [which has not failed me yet].

    Sometime during this next hunting season I plan on doing something just like that, however I will try it in disc mode first.  With all the hours I have on the Nox it has not disappointed running in Disc mode. However running AM any where near the water has been a disaster.  I am not so sure going to all metal and turning the iron bin to zero will help at my location. 

    Also if I am not interested in digging anything 0 to -9 , I am not so sure what running in AM with the bin turned down will accomplish?  From what I can tell there is no power advantage to all metal?  Has someone found different?

    Dave

  7. 3 hours ago, dewcon4414 said:

    BUT in disc the machine is still processing ALL that information..... its just not being sent to the headphones.   So if that box is out of the water EMI .... silent EMI is affecting those targets as well as minerals.  I like to hear everything thats going on with the machine so i can make adjustments.  You maybe using the threshold too, i dont.   You need to hear iron IMO .... if there is iron chance are its a concentration of targets you have to work more closely.   Everyone has their way of hunting that works for them..... and once learned it works very well for them.

    Not quite sure I follow. However, there are TWO ways to set sensitivity. Maximum as actual conditions allow with out too many false signals , ALSO setting sensitivity below the EMI interference. I MUCH prefer to set to conditions. 

    As for hearing iron targets....who cares??  They are just a waste of time to allow me to cover more ground/sand. If I am stuck at the beach weeding through iron, time is a wasting.  

    The nox is a great separator of targets. This is why it is important to check threshold breaks. 

    One needs to trust their machine! If I walk a ways with silence I always have the option of throwing a coin on the ground to confirm it is working. 😉

    Dave

  8. 3 hours ago, dewcon4414 said:

    With this machine there is so much information LOST hunting a beach in disc ..... especially over iron targets like these bottle caps.   I think its going to take time to  adjust our settings properly...... focusing on sensitivity and depth without loosing targets down deep.  You just dont know what you dont know..... so we tend to assume all is well.   Ive just been to busy having just got home to do much testing.... then left my machine in a buddies car so ... there goes another week lol.   I think ill go the route of trying F2-0 first in a small area to ID targets...... then use the beach default of 6..... then 8 in the same area to see which uncovers what.

    Not to rip on anyone. But hunting on a salt beach in all metal is a huge mistake. Unless you really are looking to dig ferrous targets.

    I could write a book here but the simple fact is: There is a reason ColonelDan HAS to hunt with the sensitivity between 13-18[ because he is in all metal]. I can hunt this same zone in 20-22 in Disc. Mode.  Without question 20-22 will beat 13-18 every day of the week. My extensive depth testing shows serious trade-offs dropping below 20 on sensitivity.

    The NOX is NO Sovereign when it comes to the "all metal mode"

    I know because Dan's beach mimic's my conditions with the two modes.  

    Dave

     

  9. 20 hours ago, ColonelDan said:

    As promised, below are my observations of the Equinox update 2.0.1 with concentration on Iron Bias F2 when used on Daytona Beach.  Emphasis is on “MY”observations.  These are mine and mine alone.  You’re observations could very well differ depending on your beach...they’re all somewhat unique.

    The beach I hunted was at the Bahama House Hotel in Daytona Beach Shores.  The conditions were sanded in but I did hit it at low tide.  I can’t speak to or test in an environment that some characterize as a “bed of nails”  since we don’t really see such conditions on our beaches.  The junk we routinely have that causes detector problems is bottle caps from a variety of manufacturers, pull tabs, can slaw and aluminum foil with a few tent stakes thrown in now and again.

    Primarily I wanted to observe the 2.0.1/F2 function based on detected targets found at an actual beach using various 2.0/F2 settings vs the 1.7.5 FE iron bias function.  You’ll not find any “scientific data” here as these are just my subjective observations….as was always the objective.

    Bottom Line Up Front: As fully expected, update 2.0.1 F2 is better at identifying various forms of “junk” alloy than 1.7.5 FE in this beach environment.

    Observations:

    1. The signals I got from a variety of bottle caps not surprisingly differed depending on the metallurgical composition.  Not all bottle caps are the same although they ring up as junk if they aren’t 100% aluminum.  Some have more aluminum than others while others have more ferrous material.   Success in identifying those signals ranged from “no doubt junk” to “no doubt good targets.”  The all aluminum twist off caps for example still ring up solidly as good targets...same with the ever present pull tab but I have to dig them or risk missing out on gold.  

    2.  I once again confirmed the importance of properly “dialing in” the settings appropriate to the environment.   The relationship between sensitivity, recovery speed and F2 made a big difference.    I found that a lower sensitivity (13-18) was best when paired with a recovery speed of around 3-4 and an F2 setting of between 5-7.  Those were the “sweet spots” for me that day at that beach.   Anything lower on the F2 scale than 5 the more the targets sounded like “dig me” targets.  Anything above 7 and I sensed a potential masking issue. Again, just what I saw that day in an environment that had significant EMI I might add.  The sweet spots will differ when EMI is not as much of a problem.  The takeaway however remains...”dial it in” regardless and you’re detecting life will be much improved over the FE settings on the same targets.

    3.  I didn’t detect any caps in the surf so my testing was limited to the wet and dry areas.  I did try my test sticks again as well and they confirmed what I was finding in the “real world.”  “Dial me in Colonel and you’ll be rewarded.”

    4.  Not many targets that day but I did find a productive coin line...which even yielded an English 20 pence coin.

    Conclusion:  I’ll use F2 with a high degree of confidence and be diligent to “dial it in” after noise canceling based on the local conditions.

    Any additional thoughts from your beach experience is highly encouraged and most welcome.

    Just the view from my foxhole...

     

    So a question?  I assume you are hunting in Disc. mode? 

    So my question is: When you had a target potentially break threshold did you ever go to all metal to help confirm the target?

    Thanks Dave

  10. 7 hours ago, Donut said:

    When you get into an area with Emi.

    1  Cell Phone

    2 Close to a strong wifi signal.

    3 power lines

    Hears something that may help. Sometimes you may have to go to a single frequency like 10 kHz. I’ve hade to do this a few times.

    Doug

     

    10 kHz won't work on a salt beach!   Dave

  11. 2 hours ago, Happa54 said:

    I After I created this post, I took my Nox to the backyard and placed a dime between 2 average size nails and was able to pick up the dime signal in Park 1& 2, rec speed 3 and 0 IB. I then placed the dime between 2 long framing nail sleeves (used in a nail gun) and couldn't pick up the dime signal.  I think this is due to the larger size of the iron objects against the size of the dime. 

    I looked at the Vid. My thought: By having the sensitivity turned all the way up to 25 AND keeping the coil right on top of the targets, he is overdriving the electronics.

    I have never heard of anyone being able to hunt at "25" in ground or water [but there is most likely someone who can]  .

    It would of been nice to see results held 6" above those targets, or at 22 sensitivity. 

    Dave

  12. 18 hours ago, BeachHunter said:

    Looking forward to an update if and when it’s available. Hopefully it will improve target ID at the beach.

     

    I highly doubt that in salt water, wet sand water contact, target ID will get better. The nox is a batch machine.....get -1, +10, +2, -1, +13...….it is probably a true +8. 

    Dave

     

  13. 5 hours ago, Lonnie / Vero Beach said:

    I purchased an Equinox 600, 6" coil and 1/8th to 1/4th adapter.  It arrived on 08/19/2019.  The detector worked without headphones.  It worked with the wired headphones that came with it, the headphone icon appearing on the screen.  When I attempted to use the 1/8th to 1/4 Minelab adapter, that I also ordered to allow me to use my Sun Ray headphones, things went wrong.  Machine was fine, but with the adapter in place, my headphones were dead.  The speaker on the unit still worked.  The headphone icon on the screen did not appear.  I re-attached the adapter several times with the same result.  There was a problem somewhere. 

    Things happen.  It probably was nothing big.  I called Minelab America, expecting another adapter would be sent, or ____?  Minelab didn't answer, just a recording informing me my call might be recorded. I left a message.  Later that day I called again. Same recording.  I did not leave a message.  I did not leave a message the two times I called the next day, when the recording was still answering my call.  I called the dealer and he was, and still is, very responsive.  He provided the email for Minelab service and maintained contact with me.  I emailed Minelab about my problem on 08/20/2019.

    I made four calls to Minelab America and never reached a human.  I left a voice-mail message with my contact info, no response.  There has been no reply to my email.  Though the Equinox may be a fine machine, I can live without it and it will be a long time before I consider another machine from them.  I qualify for the Veterans discount, which made for a great price and was considering purchasing one for my girlfriend.  The machine was sent back.

     

    Well Lonnie I am with you!  There was no reason for Minelab to change a long standing industry standard and try to force everyone to use their crappy headphones. It has caused several hours of delays and chasing around to get my QUALITY Black widows to work. . Even with the supposed correct connectors I still get a crack or blip every once in a while. This is a pure Minelab fail. 

    Dave

  14. 8 hours ago, mn90403 said:

    I went back today where I found the 'B' and dug a test hole.  It did go negative/positive in the open hole as I swung over it.  I guess I had the hole at 15 inches and it went from negative 2 to positive.  It was kinda hard to make it sound digable as I had steep sides to the hole.  When I put the coil  on edge with the target it would register 15-16 and a bit higher.  Out of the hole on the sand the 'B' is a 26-27.  Who knows why it sounded better when I found it.

     

    Thanks. Just very curious to see if anyone else responds with targets that went from negative to positive. Also I always say "nothing is the same in black sand"  and moving salt water for that matter.  

    Dave 

  15. On ‎8‎/‎20‎/‎2019 at 1:56 PM, mn90403 said:

    Then I got a deep signal that was negative 5-6 and I took off 6 inches and it turned positive.  I went down and down and could now fit the entire coil in the hole but it was still there.  I lost it a couple of times because I couldn't hear it without sticking the coil on edge into the bottom of the to hear it again. 

    Could you say what the target locked in at once you had it out? 

    Did you try to ID this in all metal before you dug?  And what were the results? 

    I am very interested if someone else had a target go from negative to positive after taking sand away? 

    I have not had this happen to me yet, but very curious  to see if others had issues? Also, if you had targets that changed were they of any worth?

    Dave

     

  16. 15 hours ago, FloridaSon said:

    @midlake, I have not tried that but it is a great idea that I will try at the beach. Seems like all metal mode is a good way to test. Thanks!

     

    I have more to add, just returned from three weeks of salt hunting. I still believe in one tone and going to all metal mode for final decision. Many if not all true ferrous targets crisp up and number lock to the minus side better when switching to all metal. 

    I also want to say that even though a true number lock on a target is unlikely [in moving salt water], except for shallow targets, I had no issues with making determinations on digging. With the 1,2 and 5 peso coin being ferrous and reading between -4 -7, there was plenty of iffy signals to sift through.  And ALL of those iffy signals I dug, none were of any worth [all ferrous]. Guessing I have several hundred "iffy targets" dug. I am very confident at this point things are not slipping by me using my method of one tone and meter ID. . 

    It leads me to believe that even though I do not get a number lock, the general sound and groups of numbers +1 and better are a working combination.

    I have always been an if in doubt DIG, person. You really get a raw look at all targets in one tone, and going to all metal really makes decisions easier. 

    HH Dave

  17. 9 hours ago, Steve Herschbach said:

    No, they won’t nor will many other detector headphones. That’s why I recommend the CTX version of the Pro Gold... it’s why they make them, to work on Minelab detectors where the older version did not. Thanks for the note I guess maybe I was not clear on that.

     

    No you were clear, but if your an old goat like me and had Sun Rays before the 3030 was even a rough drawing on a napkin.....well you have what you have...…..

    Dave

     

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