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midalake

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About midalake

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  1. The potting compound used on coils to protect them and bury the internal workings of the coil is an epoxy. I have learned my method off of forums like this many moons ago by people who have gone to that big test garden in the sky. The excuse of Warranty is just that. MFG's are not turning you down on warranty because you put more epoxy on to protect your coil. However with Minelabs Nox design, I will say it is a real bugger to do. I would rather do 5 Sovereign coils to one Nox coil. Minelab has clearly made a bad design by the 100's of coils that have already failed and the 100's more to come. How about sending your failed coil back with holes in the cover? Minelab can easily state that one allowed the entrance of added weight which exacerbated the failure of the mount. Yes this is about trading ideas, and no one is required to do my ideas. However Minelab should set-up to the plate and do a new coil design on the new batches. Dave
  2. I tried to make this smiley face bold but it will not work...….😁 Dave
  3. Hey Dew I owned the machine before the up-date. Then the first time I installed the up-date the machine was bonkers, went back to orig. platform for a few more trips out to make sure the machine was operating properly, then re-installed the updates again with a positive note. For me, the update seems much better across the board on multiple levels. So I have not looked back. Also just to qualify NOT ALL targets go undetectable. The large and/or high targets are still able to punch through. Example: I routinely pull 10 peso coins [bigger than a .50 cent piece] at 12-13 inch depths in the wet sand. This will NEVER happen in and around moving salt water. Maybe you will detect this 10 peso coin to 4-5 inches. The sad part is a detector from K-mart can do that If you keep detecting in moving water you do not know what you are missing until you wait for the beach to drain-off. Took me a while to put 2&2 together, but it finally clicked when I would only progress my movement after the beach cleared of water. Then the amount of targets that became detectable increased greatly. Also the frequency of how many times I had to wait to recover the target increased because I could not hear it until the water withdrew. I have been working this beach for over 15 years, so I know its language and know where the targets are. That was also helpful in figuring out this issue of detection depth and lack of performance in moving water. Dave
  4. Pinpoint mode to me is completely worthless. It has a broader spectrum signal than Disc mode and the water seems to drive even more noise/chatter in pinpoint. I have learned to "X" the target in Disc mode and recover. The more important part of the conversation is the loss of detection. How do I go forward with moving water and expect to detect targets? The answer is: I am unable to. Dave
  5. I am guessing both of you have read my saltwater report card a few topics below? It is not just a "falsing" problem, but a significant lack of detection problem as well working in moving salt water. I had 100's of targets disappear when moving water was present, not to be heard again until the beach drained out. During the times when water is moving on the beach slope it just seems the Nox is seriously crippled by this water wash. I am going to work harder in July to crack this problem. I highly suggest not progressing your movement on the beach until the water has drained off. If anyone thinks there is an answer, I am all ears! Dave
  6. Have you tried going to the all metal mode [horseshoe button] when these jumpy numbers happen? I work in one tone and when I seem to get targets that try to ring-in and try to repeat, I have gone to all metal mode and the target then locks in, usually in the minus 0-9 area. But I have also noticed that a jumpy conductive target has also locked in better in all metal mode. At least at the beach. Dave
  7. Hi Ray There are just too many inches of RTV caulk line to make sure a seal is 100% correct where no water or sand will enter. This is why I recommend my process of direct protection without a cover. Also if you are careful and not sloppy the coil cover can still be attached if you so desire. You also bring up a good point about "holes" in a cover. This will not work in my case as I always "scrub" my targets while identifying them and digging them. The scrubbing will just jam product into the holes. Cheers Dave
  8. I have written on this before. Can anyone explain why I would want any more than ONE TONE at the beach? I am looking for good repeatable targets +1 and better. What do I care if they ring in different? THAT is what I have a number readout for. I feel that I get so much more information on target size and depth in one tone. Also I do not have issues with ignoring a tick that might be in a wrong tone. In my world [one tone] everything gets investigated. Dave
  9. I would say there is light black sand on this beach. I looked intensely for an overload symbol many times. None. Especially when a wave would first hit me. Dave
  10. I do not have hard pan where I am except one end. It comes and goes but this last season I rarely had shells or rocks in my scoops. My main complaint is really not chatty ness. I am able to settle the machine down around 17-18 sens, in and around the moving wave wash area. I have lots of time in running machines on the edge and for me a comfortable area is having a false about every 10 steps or so. Usually an experience user can figure out the difference between a faint target tick and a false. However I always double check my "ticks". My main complaint is: the complete loss of a target when moving water is going by the coil. I had 100's of targets that I found, but when the wave wash was either coming up the beach or down it would not register, not even a tick until the water drained off. I found even 1 inch of moving water was enough to not allow the Nox to sound off on a target that was there, present, verified, and eventually dug out. I will be working harder when I find these conditions again to see if there is a series of settings that will cut through this. However I will be not back on the machine until July. One has to understand how frustrating it is to have a target but you have a 15 second to 1minute window to center it dig it and remove it before the next wave is coming at you. Also you could be waiting for minutes just to see wet sand with no water. For the most part my settings were Beach2, Sens, 17-18, IB, 2-3, recovery 4-6, GB set at 0 and tracking 50% of the time. I did NOT notice either GB mode to make this problem better. Dave
  11. The epoxy and shoe goo is lighter than the coil cover. Everyone is missing the main point! It is to completely stop sand/black sand from packing under the coil cover. Nothing enters the coil I have. I fear holes/slots only let stuff in and may not "drain" well. I know for a fact sand and even dirt between the cover and coil on a Sovereign can, and will drive it nuts. I can imagine the Nox with it's increased sensitivity would even be worse. For the record, I have never had a coil fail done like this. I have 3 Sovereign coils that had the sheave break into bits, but that epoxy is still going strong. Dave
  12. The shoe goo IS to keep sand out of those openings, nothing else. The buoyancy on the coil is unchanged. The coil cover still fits, if one so desires to use it. Dave
  13. The honey comb part is filled with shoe goo, and the coil part is covered with marine epoxy. Been putting this on coils for 20 years. Dave
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