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JCR

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  1. Nowhere in the Anfibio or Impact owners manual does it recommend a factory reset when changing coils. The Garrett manuals all do as far as I know. That is one of the few things I find inconvenient on the AT Max. I'm glad it is not required on the Anfibio with factory coils as all my Mode are customized to some extent. Good to know Non Factory aftermarket coils may need a reset. 

  2. 12 hours ago, kac said:

    One of the reasons I got the Gold Racer was for all metal hunting and because of the FE meter. On the Kruzer series the meter is disabled in all modes except the Gen Mode so as I was hunting in filtered modes and noticed targets would sound off center or be skippy I would re-ground balance and often switch to Gen Mode to investigate. As for wrap I'm not sure I had that issue with those 2 machines or with my Tejon as those have overload protection.

    For ranges I still think the displays are relative to the machine but the range is the same.

    I am surprised the mineral meter only functions in Gen Mode on the Kruzer. It functions in all modes on the Anfibio. It is effected by the ISAT. Higher ISAT settings will give less intensity on the meter. ISAT at zero gives full Mineral value.

  3. On 1/19/2021 at 3:02 PM, The Georgiadigger said:

    I agree, that's why I'm here! That and feel like crap today or, I'd be out swinging somewhere! My next time out, which will probably be Thursday. I've got a spot in mind I want to lower Tone Break and play with settings? Do you still use your F-75? I still use mine from time to time. Still a hot machine!!

     

     

    On 1/19/2021 at 4:08 PM, dogodog said:

    JCR, I just did a quick experiment with the Tone break on my Multi Kruzer, WOW what a game changer!!! I dropped the tone break to 4 and it completely eliminated the nails and gave a great tone on good targets. This is going to open a bunch of old sites to new possibilities. That being said, The TID numbers are skewed and dropped about 25 points but the tone is still recognizable. My test was with 4 heavily rusted 18th century nails in a 12 inch square with a colonial copper and a Merc dime in the center, Running the Nel superfly  coil. It hit each target solid at 8 inches and the nails were gone. I wish I would have known this sooner. THANKS for posting this little trick, It will really make a difference.

    Did you guys have any success experimenting with adjusting the first tone break or using Beach mode on your Iron sites?

  4. 6 hours ago, GB_Amateur said:

    Sounds like GB value has something to do with 'hotness'.  This is a topic/issue that comes up frequently -- the difference between ground phase (as measured by a Ground Balance number/value) and mineralization level.  They are different measurements.  However, suppose we collected (from around the world would be great) measurements of both quantities for hundreds of sites with the same detector type (e.g. Fisher F75 which seems to be the 'standard').  Then we make an X-Y graph/plot with one axis delineating ground phase and the other the mineralization value.  Will the plot look like someone blasted it with (tiny) shotgun pellets or would there be a correlation -- i.e. discernable pattern with the datapoints grouping in certain places on the plot?  My guess is the latter, and your example ("...'hot' ground has close to zero phase lag, hence reads '90'...") is consistent with my expectation.

    At some point in the past I read that Charles Garrett and his team actually documented ground conditions in many locations around the world. This is probably common among detector manufacturers. Would be interesting to see an accurate presentation.

  5. Yes, the owners manual is vague on the subject. It describes Ground Mineralization by Ground Balance ranges.

    Some of my hunting sites are deep sandy soil that gives at most 1 Bar on the scale and Ground Balances in the mid 50's. I know this is mild. Some other sites are red dirt over red clay and will give 3-4 Bars on the scale and Ground Balance at 68-74. I am trying to get a idea of the relative soil mineral intensity. The goal being having a gage on the effect it has on the detector's performance and learning how to adapt to the different ground conditions. I think it would be helpful to me to know my 3 Bar on the Anfibio scale is roughly equivalent to X on a F75 or Deus...  I realize Ground Balance numbers vary by manufacturer.

  6. 1 hour ago, mh9162013 said:

    It could be my machine. I've been tinkering with it for some time, including using AAA batteries with it with the help help of a 9V booster. I doubt that's causing the poor ratcheting even with detuning, but it's a possibility.

    Pinpointing remains a challenge sometimes, but the advent of handheld probes sure beats the pants off of what we use to deal with! Maybe someone will introduce a probe that has adjustable Disc/Tone break. That would require it be Motion based so probably not easy to do.

  7. 12 hours ago, mh9162013 said:

    I have, but it doesn't help much. If I try detuning it when I'm getting a solid tone (or close to it), the "closing range" is extremely limited...far less than it would be in a non-detuned mode. And the closer and closer I get, the less effective detuning become as the "closing range" becomes even more limited.

    If you will back off of the target until the Carrot is just at a low response to retune, it will give you more "range". You can repeat if needed.

  8. I often will detune my Garrett to zero in on a small target that is still in the hole. It works pretty well. I have not taken to my NM PulseDive nearly as well. It seems to have a noticeable delay in response and the volume thru the green headphones is overly loud. Detuning works with it as well. If the target is out of the hole I just pinpoint it with the detector and pass handfuls of dirt across the coil. This sorts any trash and is quicker for me.

  9. 6 hours ago, Rick N. MI said:

    Analog detectors like Tesoro could be set hot and go deeper with a negative ground balance. It was called power balancing. It worked very well with my Tejon and with an internal adjustment on my Lobo ST.

    New detectors I haven't seen this working so well.

    On the Vista X, which is not a true Analog but a sort of hybrid, the GB setting needs to be spot on for best stable operation & depth. If the ground changes you know it quickly. On my NM Anfbio & AT Max you can run a slight offset while in Disc modes but then PP will be a bit wonky. I have not seen any real benefit to trying to hunt with a GB offset. Most of my sites seem to be mild to moderate ground. Sandy areas GB 55-60, about 1 bar on the mineral scale and my hotter red clay sites 65-70 GB & 3, rarely 4 bars on the Anfibio. The GB values on the AT Max will be close to 20 points higher. I still experiment some on the hotter ground trying to get the most stable operation.

  10. On 1/3/2020 at 5:00 PM, GB_Amateur said:

    Naptha can be bought at hardware stores.  It's similar to the hydrocarbons in gasoline, but gasoline also has other additives as most know.  Hexane is a purer form but otherwise similar.  If your remember, or even still have, cigarette ligher fuel (Ronsonol in the blue and yellow small rectangular can is a common brand), that is also just naptha.  So is 'White gas' or Coleman Lantern fuel.

     

    I have always understood Naptha(also known as Stoddard"s Slovent) as a low flash solvent similar to common paint thinner. We use to use it by the 55 gallon drum in our shop to clean parts. White gasoline is Benzine, same as Coleman Lantern Fuel. Lighter fluid used to be Benzine. What you get now is Naptha. I use the Benzine in my lighters because it burns much cleaner.

  11. On my Anfibio I adjust the Z1 tone break & volume instead of using Disc or Notch. Depending on the hunt it maybe 06 or 18 or even 25.if in a 2 tone mode.(2DI, Deep, Beach). I hunted today for a lost ring running 3 DI with Z1 at Vol 01, Z2 at Vol 03 & Z3 at Vol 01. Gain 97 no Disc. I love the adjustability that it has. I only use Notch on my saved customized 5DI mode that I use for coins in modern trash.

  12. 6 hours ago, Ridge Runner said:

    Locator  
     I had a dealer friend in south Houston in the early 70’s and he had people all time ask him how durable was a White’s detector.

     What that nut would do  when they got outside he’d turn it off and throw it so it would roll across the yard. Then go pick it up and turn it on saying that durable.

     He did say one day that was going to cost him a sale.

     Chuck 

    Was that Alexander Enterprises? I bought my Garrett CX II there in 1994. I actually got it out today and ran it through the test garden. All metal is is not bad at all but the Disc mode can't come close to today's top end machines. t did find a lot of stuff anyway.

  13. Those are some great buttons.

    I have never run a F75 but I know it's reputation. I have kept information on Flagship class detectors for General knowledge to adapt to my situation, F75, Deus, Impact on others. The Physics are the same and I'm able to draw on the knowledge & experience of much more advanced detectorists.

    The purpose in lowering the Tone Break to 06 is to hunt in heavy nail areas for the mid conductors that are heavily masked by the iron beside and above them. The Iron pulls their conductance down. In my ground a normal size rusty cut nail comes in around 03-04. That is if it's not bent or have an extra rusty head. There a ways to interrogate the target and know it is isolated iron or something in addition. You will dig some nails for sure but that gets them out of the way and breaks up their halo. You will also find good targets that have been missed. Maybe a high conductor but more likely a mid conductor like your buttons or lead. It is really a specialty setting for specific site areas. The potential has to be there to justify this type of slow sweep, dig the odd ball sounding targets approach. Don't try to run too much gain. You aren't going to get past 3-4 inches anyway when it's wall to wall nails. 3DI at 89 Gain or lower with the same Tone Break of 06 is good also I just prefer 2DI or Beach.

    Dogodog your button does have a Fraternal look to it.   Move your nails closer to the coin, then put one on top of the coin. How does that report? Now put the coin 1-2-3 inches directly under a nail. What will a little offset change? How about a Nickle 5 cent piece or cuff button? I try to simulate what I think might be in the ground on the site.

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