Johnnysalami1957

I was more concerned about Steve than the forum. I didn't know he was away. I'm happy it's up and running again and thanks Steve for everything you do for us.

I'm with the government and I'm here to help.......

Anyone can divine for water. Just keep digging until you find it!

Try using a metal screen like a Faraday cage.

Remember to take the caps home.

J. Finnis Pin invented the first Pin pointer while training his dog to hunt birds in the heavy brush. The dog was trained to "point" whenever it detected a bird in the bush. Thus the "Pin Pointer"  description was coined. The dog was at a later date trained to detect buried metals in holes at shallow depths and some could discriminate between ferrous and non ferrous metals for a chip of dried liver treat. Mainly used as a mine detector for the military. After Finnis passed away several companies developed sophisticated electronics to duplicate what the dog could do cheaper, smaller and with greater accuracy. After the war this device caught on with hobby metal detectorists and continues to be used and refined for more depth and accuracy at a lower price point. Note tail direction tells the operator the direction of target. This example indicated straight down in hole.

My thinking is that no more big box machines. Just use their multi frequency tech and put it in their machines. No real interest in heavy single frequency machines anymore. Good for Whites owners if they honor the warranty on machines already sold within the warranty period. And maintain some parts for other machines. 

Hate to say they this, David but NJ is NOT metal detector friendly at all. I hope you have lots of friends and get permissions, or get used to the sand at the shore. You can get a permit for a state park but you can't really legally recover anything. Every town I have been in says no because of destruction of public property and you get dirty looks from the parents in the wood chipped tot lots. And I was taking the trash and making sure the ground was as nice or better after I left.  It's okay to trash a park with litter and destruction to playground equipment though. Nobody seems to care about that. 

Auto Zone or any auto parts store. will have plastic panel hardware. It may not look the same but will work fine. Look in the HELP isle.

Maybe the plastic is too hard and being work hardened further by usage. Try a heat gun on the assembled lower rod and coil ears to relieve the stress at the connection point. 

Harder scratches softer. Can push harder soil against the target and scratch it also like sandpaper. Prob won't hold up well in the long run. Excellent execution of the tool! I just dig further away and under a target if I don't want to hurt but still manage to damage some targets. Just have fun everyday!

I ordered the small round coil and a lower shaft today from Colonial Detectors today. I'll get back to you all how it goes.  

6 minutes ago, kac said:

Diggers are a preference, some are happy with the bayonet style blad and straight handles and many don't even use hand diggers or rarely use them enough that they work fine. Few years back I made one for myself with the rotated handle downward. Also liked a mini spaid point so they actually can scoop dirt. One I do sell is primarily for turf and designed to make a quick plug or flap. I ended up using chrome moly steel for the final product for it's strength to weight ratio. Weighs in under 11 1/2 oz and is corrosion resistant.

My hand can't take the straight handle pressure anymore. But the arm and wrist stay straight now and I just use my weight to cut down into the soil. Just for shallow stuff. This scoops dirt as well. The blade stays sharp but needs some WD-40 once and awhile due to the high carbon content. I like the other diggers but I went for comfort.

I made this awhile ago and has helped me tremendously. High carbon Japanese steel and 1/2 iron pipe to the angle of my wrist.  Attached with silicate bronze rod. Slices cut with a 4 1/2 " cutoff wheel and sharpened on one side to make it easy to resharpen.  Blade is 11"

37 minutes ago, Duncan c said:

You must be selling nokta seems I've touched a nerve and people have been viewing the vids plus nokta told me they would only repair if I deleted video, is that bullying/blackmail you tell me, infact you are probably the person who was posting simplex is as good if not better than the nox. I love the fact your blaming me, you clearly have not watched the vids, you should watch vids first before posting blame GB amateur.

Steve thankyou I had been in contact with the dealer but correspondence stopped. How do I post a direct youtube link.

It's simple. Open the owners manual and look for the phone number of the closest service center and call them. I can assure you that no one here despite the many different machines we own, promote one machine over another. They all have a different or overlapping role in the hobby. I'm sorry you are having issues with your machine. Don't make more issues with the people that try to help you. 

On 6/4/2020 at 8:52 AM, 67GTA said:

Still trying to wrap my mind around this. I only decided to buy a Simplex after the extra depth update. Wonder if the people complaining about jumpy numbers/chatter realize they are losing depth and they can't have both? Wonder what Nokta's response will be if they complain about loss of depth? And yes now you will have to choose between quiet and noisy updates. 

On 6/2/2020 at 9:15 PM, Sven1 said:

D stability and depths have been changed back to the same levels of version 2.68.

The machine will still be deeper. You just won't see an ID or accurate depth reading and be less chatty. Is what I'm getting.

ID stability and depths have been changed back to the same levels of version 2.68. This will NOT affect the overall depth and sensitivity of the device.

My Whites service center told me Whites waterproof detectors work well. Just don't get them wet!

On 1/2/2020 at 3:18 AM, 2Valen said:

Simon,

Some of the capacitors will not show any sign damage and still be bad.

I finished replacing all the capacitors on a mother board of a 42 inch flat screen and none of the caps looked bad at all.

They will lose value first and then they will go bad on these newer TV sets, so that is why I have replaced all of the capacitors.

My rule of thumb is after say 10 - 15 years in a piece of equipment replace the capacitors and then see if there are any more problems. That will usually fix the problems for about $10 - $20 and it will save a lot of time and heartache down the road.

What I saw in the photo it would only be about a $5.00 cost in parts on EBay or even Amazon, but I do suggest only use a good brand of capacitors for the long haul.

My rule of thumb with a consumer electronics that after 10 years buy a new one!

Happy Fathers day Steve! I hope your eyeballs are doing better.

White's had ample time to step up to the competition and just chose to lay back and go the way of the dinosaur. I grew up with and had many Whites machines and all were good performers. They just didn't respond to what the customers wanted and what other companies had to offer for less money. I'm sad to see them go.

Thank you for the countless thoughts of treasure and the great memories of searching for them.

God Bless and good luck to their employees and to Ken. 

Johnny DeMarco

1 hour ago, Johnnysalami1957 said:

I heard them called "cold" joints. I used to find them by touching the joints with a toothpick and see if I can induce the issue. 

A few years back I was interested in micro soldering. I went out and bought a 40X stereo microscope and a camera for my laptop. After practicing on a ton of old motherboards I got decent at R&R components and surface mount chips. Just to say I did it. Now my hands ain't so good so I just buy a new whatever. I still like to take stuff apart to diagnose though. I figure you love that stuff too. I think I spent more on the stuff to make the repair than I saved on the repairs or mods. I call it tuition.

2 hours ago, phrunt said:

Sounds like your Gold Bug 2 has dry solder joints. 

With the Equinox very little could be causing this issue if you're certain the coil cable is secured other than the internal coil plug not connected properly.  I can replicate your fault to an extent by purposefully having a loose coil cable.  If I remove my coil cable quickly and plug it back in I get the same erratic behavior while removing the coil cable too.   If I take too long to plug it back in the Nox shuts down with a coil error 🙂

These little plugs tend to be very good and tight fitting so it'd be very unusual they would be poorly fitting, could also obviously be bad soldering on the other end of the that cable.

If you get that same thing happening in all different locations and you're 100% sure your coil cable is tight, I would be sending it off for warranty.

I heard them called "cold" joints. I used to find them by touching the joints with a toothpick and see if I can induce the issue. 

There's other things designed for that. 😉

https://www.consumerreports.org/video/view/healthy-living/fitness/952474458001/consumer-reports-tests-the-shake-weight/

Overcooked!

Goes well in spaghetti sauce too!