1moar

Oh I think they may have a little speed yet LOL;

Hmmmm what can I say that will stir XP to release before its time...... NOTHING! LOL But if I get the 'spelling' and 'cursive' right........ Here; my sigilnature X ; )

Happy to help.

.....Also the WS6 screen is a little convex so use plenty of UV glue to fill the edges. Give it a short exposure to the UV light to set the lens and then wipe excess glue away before full UV light cure.

Link for the picture posted above; https://www.amazon.com/Tourist-Anti-Scratch-Anti-Fingerprint-Anti-Bubble-Installation/dp/B07873R8QJ/ref=sr_1_2?c This link is for one that is only slightly bigger than the viewable screen on the WS6; https://www.amazon.com/Tourist-Anti-Scratch-Anti-Fingerprint-Installation-Replacements/dp/B078HBDDGG/ref=sr_1_1 There are a few different UV glue kits for watch screen savers listed there. Make sure you get the right UV glue or the installation could be permanent.

Was tired of looking thru scratched plastic and waiting for the official product so I went in search of these. Mr Bezos has these for the small apple watches and UV glue kits for them. Much better.

I run Sensitive Full Tones and PWM exclusively. The only changes I fluctuate are Reactivity and Sensitivity but only a little either direction of default. Iron buzz becomes very pronounced with falsing. A few swings will also start scrubbing the falsing. Between the iron buzz and falsing be aware of that possible faint solid signal that can still be had in both directions. Brief erratic 91s are a good sign of falsing also. Its all an ear full so keep the volume at comfortable levels..... lol

A little taught but she will go. Peeling the flap back gets you to the charge port. Maybe XP will make a proper one.....

Ok ran it this weekend and found large ID a little slow in sensitive full tones. Its not terrible because I rely on tones mostly and hover until shown. It is slow to leave the previous ID.

I think some are on crack. Its an injection issue that seperates the metal flake in that area.

You gotta take all the mystery out of it don't you. lol

Once one of them are installed, right click on the XP file and extract into folder of the same name as the original folder.

You need WinRAR or WinZip to open it. Go to authentic sites to download trial versions.

Its probably not the best solution but it is adequate for what it is doing. Maybe D3 will address it.

Options/ Settings/ Infos/ >

1/8" plug.

Might as well set a post while you're at it... lol

No, you are going straight down.... lol

Is there a transmit power increase in Deep HC and Diving mode? I wonder if in Mono Frequency also. I base these questions on suggested battery life in manual.

I myself did not notice any difference in performance after large ID v0.6 so I thought you all cray cray but maybe not now. lol Just checked and I had the large ID firmware v0.6 dated 08-03-2022 Updated again to check and found v0.6 dated 11-03-2022 hmmmmm lol No personal program or pairing lost this time which is great.

Confirmed working. Ray Charles could see it now. ; )

Yes sir after the initial fairly short break-in period, LiPo will begin to very slowly deteriorate under these conditions.

A few more charge/discharge cycles will get you to the prescribed 8hrs of usage for Deep HC mode, maybe even a few minutes more (I'm tired just thinking about that much time) lol. LiPo batteries do need some break-in to reach full capacity. Happy Finding!