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Posts posted by schoolofhardNox

  1. 2 hours ago, LawrencetheMDer said:

    Here is a pic of the 293 US cents that I have found so far this year (Jan1, 2024-Feb 24, 2024) on the west coast of Florida.  I'd say 95% or so are NOT spendable.  At least I get a good work-out, but I would prefer dollar coins, just a personal preference.

    Happy Hunting


    Melt them down 😅 Skim the copper, keep the zinc. Might as well get something out of the deal. 🤔 I find a lot of coins still here on the New England coast and even the non zinc ones would still have to be tumbled to be readable and spendable.

  2. 1 hour ago, rvpopeye said:


    Impressive silver pile , again. 👍  The dimes reminded me of the wanted poster lineup at the post office , they're all wanted in my neck of the woods 🤔 . Did the pliers turn out to be salvageable ?


    Thanks. If you want to see a real wanted poster.... I have some way better coins I would love to find and post. 😄 But that will never happen 😭. I doubt the pliers are salvageable since it looks like it has lost a lot of steel already. Would probably snap if cutting something 🤭. I'm already itchin' to get out again 😬

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  3. 10 hours ago, GB_Amateur said:

    Thanks for that link.  They're missing the version that's shown in my avatar!  😁  I think it's later than any shown there, likely the last of the ring+beavertail design.  It has no rivet -- just made from a single piece of thin sheet aluminum with the ring part reinforced by rolling.

    We used to find those back in the 80's or 90's. I think the little cans of Mott's apple juice had that style, but I could be wrong.

    • Like 1
  4. 30 minutes ago, GB_Amateur said:

    Are those the ones shown in the lower left portion of your non-ferrous trash photo -- what I'd call beaver tail with near rectangular pull?

    Whatever has happened on your coast, it looks like it's been an unusual winter, on the plus side.  Hopefully you can keep getting out there while the pickens are good.  Oh, where in your photos is the 'wiped' clean nickel candidate?

    Well...... you can't see the white nickel because someone forgot to post that picture. 😵  Here it the picture of the clad stuff. I put the arrow under it and at first glance it may appear to be a Jefferson reverse side, but in hand it doesn't quite match up. But you never know, could just be a Jefferson.

    Yes, the pull tabs on the lower left are the older ones. I once had a nice dated chart showing all the different types, but I can't find it. Here is another source. Just scroll down until you see the picture. Supposed to be the first style around 1963.



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  5. Beach hunt # 24 is done. I decided to hit a small beach for half a day and then return to my silver beach if things didn’t go well at that beach. So, this small beach has previously given up a decent number of coins, some junk jewelry, but occasionally I get a silver ring or some silver coins. I think the most silver in one trip previously was 2 silver coins. I was expecting this beach to be a bit more roughed up from previous storms, but after talking with a friend that lives nearby, I was told the storms usually push sand up on the beach. OK, 🙄 not what I wanted, but maybe there are some good coins pushed up from the ocean depths. It took a while, but I found a coin line and after a couple hours, I managed a silver Washington, a Mercury dime, a silver cross, and part of a silver ring. I also found 2 more war nickels which read 56 and 68 on the Manticore. Well, already that’s more silver than my usual haul when things quiet down, so I was happy with that. 2 Buffalo nickels also showed up, so I am always happy to see those. It tells me I am in the right time frame for silver. But I think it’s time to move on to the other beach.  I was almost ready to leave when I started to dig those very old style pull tabs. If you get them, more silver is possible. So, I stayed and continued to the end of the beach where I started to see some nice erosion. This section was very different from the rest of the beach and was only exposed because of the low tide. I never really thought about this section much because it’s hard to get to unless the tides recede enough. My first target sounded very loud (as shallow targets often do on the GPX). I removed a couple of small rocks and down about 2 inches pops out a quarter. Clad sometimes gets tumbled a lot and comes out shiny, but I quickly noticed the eagle back of a Barber quarter. OK then. 🥰 Next target might be an old nickel, but completely wiped clean. 3rd target was a Barber dime. 🤔 What the heck is going one here? 😅 Not a lot of targets there, and I’m now fighting the tide coming back in, but I managed some more silver dimes and another Barber quarter. Talk about changing my day. Needless to say, I spent the whole day there, and did not go to the other beach. One of my best outings on this beach and I plan to return there the next time we have a decent low tide. You never know what the day will bring.




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  6. That's a lot of coins. I have had a couple of days recently of high coin counts, so I know the feeling. You just can't stop digging them. I guess one of the reasons to dig like that, is the fact that nature can bury that location within a matter of days. So time is of the essence. Also, you never know when someone else can stumble onto that location. Congratulations on your hard work. It looks like it payed off!

  7. 1 hour ago, BigSkyGuy said:

    Based on my tests it appears to be a leaching issue. I tested over 2,000 non-dug war nickels and only found three out of spec. @JCR has found several War Nickels that read high, but I suspect that he has not recovered thousands of them that read in spec. Also of interest, is that one of the three out of spec coins that I identified read low. I have not heard of anyone finding one the reads low. As GB mentioned the manganese was added to decrease the overall conductivity of the coin so that it matched the standard 75% copper/25% nickel coin.  Under mildly oxidizing conditions, manganese metal oxidizes to a very soluble ion (Mn+2), unlike copper which forms a relatively insoluble oxide coating on the metal. Therefore, the manganese leaches from the coin, increasing the conductivity.

    I agree with you and GB, that the manganese has to be the culprit. We can account for the higher readings but the low one must mean that copper or silver was leached out without the manganese loosing much. I guess under the right conditions, you could find a chemical way to do just the copper or silver. But it must be rare, since I didn't get many that read low.

  8. All fantastic posts and observations. So.....is it a leaching issue or is it an out of spec issue or is there something in addition to those, like our machines are so much more capable of analyzing the coins, or all of the above? Could there even be some sort of anomaly in new technology that has more than the usual problems with mixed metal identification? Kind of the way nails false high and hit in many non ferrous numbers? Are we getting a true ID or is some of it skewed by the processing of the signal? Kind of like harmonics when dealing with frequencies. So far the manganese factor seems to be the most probable to have something to do with it. Most of our silver coins  read pretty reliable, only changing due too wear. Our Cu/Ni coinage usually reads solid, but when you add manganese into the mix, you get what we have now. I wish I still had my DFX. I would love to see what they read on older technology.

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  9. 2 hours ago, JCR said:

    None of the War Nickel I have dug had any serious corrosion. The discoloration varies some. I may have time to see if there is any correlation.

    (edited my original response)

    I'm assuming you are digging in dirt. If that's the case then the consistency of our coinage is in question.

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  10. So I have been posting my beach detecting series mostly using a GPX, but sometimes the Manticore. Recently discussions got around to trying out the war nickels on the Manticore, doing an air test to see if they read the same as a non dug (clean) war nickel and also how that compares to a CU-Ni modern nickel. This is a continuation of those discussions now posted in a more appropriate forum. I was running the Manticore in Goldfield (but ran it in every other mode) with just about the same results. Sensitivity was set to 13  as I was in my house. It ran very quiet and all targets were solid, non bleeding and on the line targets, on the screen. Nice round blobs. For this test I ran a bunch of war nickels that were from the same beach, over a span of around 6-8  years. The first test was done with them uncleaned. I separated them into 3  general categories: black toned/black encrusted, green encrusted, white/ mostly white. Here are the Target ID's (Black toned - 23, 15, 23, 21, 16, 16, 20--- Black encrusted - 80), /// (Green encrusted - 23, 25, 49, 31, 44, 38, 70, 45, 32, 11, 43, 52, 46, 68, 35, 56) ///  (White or mostly white - 25, 27, 34, 24, 26, 45) As a reference, I scanned a non beach clean war nickel and it came in at - 28. Also a modern clean (CU NI) one that came in at - 26.

    I then took one of the black nickels that read 16 and cleaned it until all the black toned color was removed. It still read 16 - no change. So I took the black encrusted nickle that read 80 and cracked off the black coating and brass brushed it and baking soda steel wooled it, but could not get it completely silver, but almost. It now read 80 - no change.

    I have absolutely no idea why these nickels read all over the place. I first thought that the green crusted was more copper based - copper oxide, so it should read higher. I also thought the black crusted ones would probably be a silver oxide and would read even higher. At first it looked like that, but now it seems the coating has no repeatable effect on the target id.

    Any thought on this? This picture is one of the first experiment I did on the issue with just 4 nickels (not included in the list above).

    war nickles.jpg

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  11. I'm going to start a discussion on this issue on the Manticore forum, so maybe other beach Manticore owners can try this as well. I ran some more tests and I'm more confused now than ever. 😳 Steve or anyone who can move some of the posts from here to there, it would be appreciated.

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  12. 38 minutes ago, GB_Amateur said:

    Wow, thanks for the quick response!  Do you realize you've just solved a mystery that has been floating around this site (and other detecting sites) for quite a few years?  I'm serious.

    There have been multiple reports of Warnicks giving considerably higher VDI's than other nickels, even though no one has ever given evidence that Warnicks *not* coming from the ground read anything different than standard 25-75 Ni-Cu.  (I measured over 150 in my non-detected collection with the Eqx and all were either 13 or (occasionally) 13-14.

    The Manticore's USA nickel VDI's peak around 26-27 so your recent two are way above that.  (And they are consistent with many of the earlier reports of coins which were found in the ground, but not in saltwater.)

    The environment has seriously changed the conductivity and selective removal of manganese (9% of the Warnick and a very low conductor) is pretty much now the solid explanation.

    I'm wondering if the copper oxide crust is raising that number considerably. If I get some time this weekend, I'll try a normal non oxidized war nickel and see if it reads closer to 26. It seems the more refined detectors become, the more number variability they take on. Bring back the E Trac set to maximum spread. 😅 There was just enough difference to mostly tell silver from clad (even Wheats from Memorials).

    Ok, I couldn't wait 🙄. So I tried a war nickel that was clean and it read 28. So far so good, just 2 numbers higher that a Cu-Ni one. But then I started to think maybe the copper oxide is raising the numbers to be more and average of copper and nickel. So then I thought what if the black encrusted ones I find are silver oxide on the top making it black.They should read even higher. But the findings surprised even me. These four new nickels are from the same beach different year's hunt. both the top left and bottom left are black, the only difference is one is clean and toned black (corrosion cracked off), the other is raw thick black (not having the corrosion cracked off). The top right and bottom right are different levels of the green corrosion. What is going on here??? I think I was in goldfield mode.

    war nickles.jpg

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  13. 22 hours ago, F350Platinum said:

    Outstanding again.

    I don't know how you do it, but I sure know why, 🤔 looks like things are starting to thin a bit. 😬

    I get the silverware but old buttons and doorknobs? Well at one beach I have found some old house parts like glass fuses and such.

    Another great one. 👍

    Yep, things are drying up a bit. But I can't complain, it's been a good streak for silver with a couple gold thrown in. Now back to reality 😓 The old button is probably just after WW II, when beaches were a great source of relief. I get a lot of coins in the 40's / 50's layer. The door knob is probably from some previous storms that took down cottages that were waterside. Either before the state took over the beach or from adjacent areas that were later purchased by them. I get a decent amount of house items, and yes, them cork fuses show up sometimes.

    3 hours ago, GB_Amateur said:



    If I've been following correctly, isn't this the first time in a while you've been in single digits with your silver coin count?  Even for you that was a hell of a run!

    BTW, if you think of it would you run one of those green Warnicks over the Manticore and report the digital TID?

    Thanks. Single digits are fine (unless it's just 1) 😅. I'm shocked the silver stuck around this long. I'm sure there is probably another beach somewhere where the conditions were similar. I should have tried to get to some NH beaches. I saw some videos where the GPX would have done very well on those rocky areas. Unfortunately, I couldn't spare anymore time than I already did.

    On the Manticore, I ran some numbers for you. I was inside, so sensitivity was at 13. I had discrimination, but it would not affect the readings as the signals were pure with no bleeding into the disc zone. I did not reset the machine, as I didn't want to lose my settings. So not a standardized test by any means. I tried both nickels, so the first number you see is the less corroded one and the second number is the more corroded one. AT Gen - 46/49, AT Fast- 46/49, AT LC - 47/50, AT HC - 48/50, AT Trash Reject - 46/49, Beach General - 46/49, Beach LC - 46/49, Beach Deep - 46/49, Beach Surf & Seawater - 45/48, Goldfield - 45/48. Numbers jumped sometimes with the low number at 45 and the high number at 50 (occasionally jumping to 53).

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  14. 15 minutes ago, The_Stalker said:


    What machine were you using for this hunt?

    GPX 5000. Now, I usually bring the AQ and the Manticore in case my 2 batteries die on the 5000. These recent hunts seem to draw down each of my batteries after 4 hours hunting. My machine of choice for beaches is the GPX. But the beach takes a toll on the machine. I'm surprised it survives what I do to it 😅

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  15. 2 hours ago, rvpopeye said:

    As usual .....another good haul !    37 merc is a nice one !

    Spoons are well represented today.  The ?  #1 key fob/whatzit on the left below the dimes is interesting.  Looks like a scared ghost.🙃

    Thank. The 37 Merc is in nice shape. Usually they are fairly worn.

    I have that charm backwards. I think it's supposed to read  - # 1. On the side I showed you can just read the "ng" from sterling to the right of the bottom of the 1. God I hate spoons  😫

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  16. Beach hunt # 23 is over. I started by hunting another beach I had done well on recently and was lucky enough to get a Walking Liberty half dollar. 🥰 I spent about 4 hours there and the only other good find was a military cuff button. So, it was time to move on. Beach #2 however was the beach I have been hunting for the last couple of times, so I didn’t take much for me to head there. It was slow going at first, finally scoring a worn-out Mercury dime. I was pretty sure my day would end with just 2 silvers for the day. I did get a lot of coins, mostly clad, along with less trash than the other beach. Finally, I hit a spot that gave me a small silver ring along with an odd silver pendant. I was almost ready to go, as the sun sets fast these days. I procrastinate a lot at the end of a hunt, and I was bitchin’ to myself that I spent too much time at the first beach. 😔 But as luck has it, I hit 3 targets in a row that were silver dimes. That helped a lot. I did get my obligatory Buffalo nickel, as I feel lonely without one. 🙄 The biggest surprise came at home when I started to look over the nickels, checking on the dates. I usually use nickels to see what era I was hunting in. I would have never imagined I had 2 silver war nickels, as they were green encrusted, as opposed to the normal black beach encrusted ones. After thinking about it, I barely recall finding one green war nickel before. I only spent 3 hours at beach 2, but the finds outdid beach one (time spent). A decent hunt and I’m struggling to see where I want to go next. I may have to again do a 2-beach hunt, starting at a new beach and then ending up at silver beach.




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  17. 1 hour ago, Steve Herschbach said:

    It was not all the fact the forum software was dysfunctional. The freedom of speech so highly touted there was really due to there being no moderator, Wally always being busy and Tom out of the loop. Quite a few well known posters from past times were run off by trolls due to the lack of moderation. This forum was actually set up in direct response to unmoderated forums, almost all of which have now died away completely. I don’t see those people returning no matter what software is running the place as long as trolls are given free rein.

    Here is the link to Tom’s Old Forum

    and here is the direct link to Tom’s New Forum

    I wish them well, lots of great info posted there over the years.

    How true. The reason I left there was because of the relentless attack on a forum member (I did not know him). The forum shifted from a great bunch of knowledgeable people, to a gang of old timers that ruled it for their amusement. I was embarrassed after sending the archaeologists that I work with on projects, to that site to ask members if they could ID some of their finds. They never posted anything there after seeing that drama. I felt like an idiot for recommending that site. I always felt I lost some credibility with them over that. I have no reason to ever go back there.

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  18. 7 hours ago, Valens Legacy said:



    I have a lot of contacts that are 18k solid and a lot of traces or runs that are gold plated. That is the reason I am interested in reclaiming as much gold as I can from the circuit boards.

    Some of the contacts are between 1/2 to 1 gram each and will add up very quickly.

    Specialty boards that use gold for connections are not cheap and I am going to get my monies worth since they are bad.

    Thanks for the heads up on what to expect from reclaiming gold from boards.

    I belong to a gold refining forum, as I have a small recycling business. There are a lot of ways to get gold from components on a circuit board or from plated pins. There are ways to bleach or hydrogen peroxide to put metals into solution, but aqua regia is the fastest and most effective method. There are other more dangerous methods out there. I would strongly recommend  that if anyone is intending to do any kind of refining to join a refining forum on line. Not only are there life threatening chemical combinations that can be fatal, but there are components that contain beryllium, that are very toxic. Also other conditions that may happen inadvertently when you are refining for one metal but there may be others present that may cause you harm.  I don't want to stray off topic too much, but DM me if anyone needs more information and on what forum to join.

    As for the article, there has been more interests lately into using amino acids and other more natural ways to leach metals from components, as well as crushed rock. The article still needed nitric and hydrochloric acids to put the metals into solution. Interesting read, but not to the level where it would be practical to use....yet.

    Most people over estimate the amount of gold in electronics. You need a lot more separated components that one might think. I won't refine mine until I have a lot of gold bearing items. The cost of chemicals makes it difficult to refine on a small scale. But you can do it just for fun or to have a tiny bead of gold to show.  Here is how I store mine until I can break down the boards for refining.


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