CLH

When I was on .71 every piece of iron rang up good. When I went to 1.1 all that pretty well quit. It really helped me.

The "gauge" is apparently part of a Greek Alphabet linotype set as seen here: https://www.ebay.com/itm/265716953488

I have 2 cables already (2 machines) and can't see buying another cable so the factory one just sits in a bag doing nothing. I don't dive and never plan to, it would be just for wading as deep as I can walk so the length should never change. I am mostly wanting to make sure there is no reason this should not work before I cut it.

I read through all the threads I could find about the antenna cable for underwater use. I drilled the top shaft and threaded the cable through to the top and hooked to the control box, then proceeded to try and stuff the remaining Tasmanian Devil level coil spring excess cable into the lower shaft. What was I thinking? I finally got it all stuffed in there, but now the shaft obviously won't collapse all the way because the remaining wire in the upper shaft also has to go in there as it collapses. After reading other threads I have come to the conclusion that I should be able to just lop the excess cable at the top end where it contacts the control box (since it really does not matter exactly where it sits), trim back the shielding and just waterproof it. I assume I could cut off either end, but the clip on the bottom is sort of handy, except that it covers the charging light. Since it requires a lot of fiddling to get that clip seated to be sure it is charging, seeing that light is important. Another oversight by XP. How hard would it have been to make a clip that does not cover the charging light? Now I have to take that off to charge too. More wear on the O-Rings. Maybe I will just cut off that end since a trimmed and heat shrink tube end there at least won't cover the light. Anyway, does anyone have any input, pro or con, to just cutting off the excess cable? No point in buying some other cable since this one is useless as it is if you want to tidy things up and hide it inside the shaft. Might as well chop it up.

I had nonmetallic shoes and kept a nickel on one shoelace so I could check that it wasn't being notched out, and a pull tab on the other so I could notch it out. In the old days with my old machines gold and nickels fell in the same range and I could notch out the tabs, but still found gold rings, not too many other choices for settings. Those days are gone as the machines get more finely tuned and I have gained another 30 years experience.

Lucky dog. Every beach I hit I think they piled up pallets and burned their years supply of beer cans on them, then went over the pile several times with a disk and harrow.

I did waterline to tree line about 40 feet wide. No change.

Went to a small hidden area of beach on a freshwater lake that seems to be the landing point of a lot of floating flotsam. I might as well have walked into Chernobyl with a Geiger counter! 100% chatter every square inch. 99.999% melted alumi-nuggets. I have never seen something quite so bad. I tried every program, sensitivity way down, sniper programs, custom sonar program from Gary, anything and everything I could to tune the machine down, but no stopping the chatter. No houses or cell tower or EMI anywhere near here, just that much junk in the sand. Worst part is every signal was a good coin signal too. All in the high tones and/or numbers, 80's and 90's. Everything I dug was melted aluminum from pea size to palm sized. Pulled one zinc penny out of the roar before I gave up and left after about 20 minutes. Just couldn't take the noise and digging 100% aluminum. I've been at this over 30 years and have never hit anything like this. I suppose it's the product of years of bonfires here and then whatever was burnt on any other beach and drifted in to this cove and got stuck in the sand.