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PimentoUK

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  1. That map of Europe looks a bit 'distorted' to me. I'm sure the UK isn't that big. Not to mention all of Scandinavia and the Baltic States are missing - Norway, Sweden, Finland, Latvia, Lithuania to name a few.
  2. A process known as Bioturbation is a very significant factor in coin sink. Essentially, earthworms disturb the soil around the item, until one dry/wet/cold/whatever day, the conditions allow it to drop 2 or 3 mm. Repeat this for 100 years and your target is 20cm ( 8 inches) down. If the ground is inhospitable to worms, the sink is much slower. Unfortunately for us, earthworms tend to live in the top 30cm ( 12" ) of soil, because that's where the plant matter they eat is located.
  3. If it's laying on the surface, or nearly, then the obvious thing to try is lowering the sensitivity right down, to 5 perhaps, then you'll only get signals from shallower stuff [ or big stuff deep ]. Try a few experiments with a 'similar' mans ring.
  4. Sounds terribly over-complicated to me, surely a couple of bent coat-hangers, maybe with a pocket calculator hot-melt glued on top, would find all these targets?
  5. Sorry to hear about the accident, it sounds serious , was fire involved? How damaged is the search-coil for the Equinox ? I would actually be interested in obtaining it if it was not destroyed, I'm wanting the electronics board out of it for a tinkering project. Thanks.
  6. My guess is it's made of 9ct gold ( or some similar low-ct like 10 or 14) , so you need to get it tested, under XRF. It may still be worth 40% of a genuine one. You can also perform a density test on it, which will give a pretty good guide to ct value. I've copied this post of mine from a Geotech1 thread: Here's how to measure the volume, and also the density, of un-hallmarked jewellery etc. See the attached photo: A ) Place a small container of water ( 20 - 50 cm3 ) on your scales, and 'Tare' the readout to zero. B ) If you're wanting the weight of the item, place it alongside the water container, and take the reading as indicated. C ) Using monofilament fishing line / polyester sewing thread / very fine wire, lower the item into the water, so that it is just submerged, and not touching the bottom or sides of the container. Make sure there's no air bubbles attached. Take the indicated weight reading. Reading C is the weight of the displaced water, which, because water has a density of 1.00 g/cm3 , it's also the volume of the water in cm3 . To calculate the density, divide the weight in reading B, by the weight in reading C. So in the example, the finger ring weight = 9.50 grams. The volume = 0.92 cm3. The density calculated as 9.50 / 0.92 = 10.33 g / cm3 which is typical for Sterling Silver ( tech data usually gives a figure of 10.36 ) As a guide to what density some precious metals are, some figures are: Metal Density --------------------- 9ct gold 10.9 to 12.7 14ct gold 12.9 to 14.6 18ct Yellow gold 15.2 to 15.9 18ct White gold 14.7 to 16.9 22ct gold 17.7 to 17.8 Pure 999/24ct gold 19.3 Sterling Silver 10.2 to 10.3 Pure silver 10.5 950 Platinum 20.1
  7. I think the damaged sixpence has 'mower rash' , rather than spade strike. I've found plenty of 'coinslaw' caused by mowers, so it's no surprise that you will come across it. And it's not a tractor, it's a steamroller / roadroller, made by Aveling Barford. Possibly Budgie or Lesney Matchbox, though I would expect it would say on it's underside. This type of thing: roadroller Edit: or is it a Fun Ho ? FunHo
  8. I've just done an airtest on some small Cu-Ni coins, to see how they compared. Coins tested, with target ID value: British sixpence: 75/25 [ same as NZ issue ]: ID 10 NZ threepence: 75/25 : ID 6 / 7 British 5 decimal pence: 75/25 : ID 11 Norway/Sweden 10 Ore : ID 7 [I don't have the 10 Ore composition , it's probably 75/25] ID's are in 'multi' mode, in both Park1 and Park2. The 5 Pence is rather thick, compared to the others, which pushes up its ID value. Attached pic of the test coins. For those in the US of A, the 5 Pence is exactly the same diameter as a Dime.:
  9. I was also curious about Simon's low TID value for the 3d CuNi coin. For the benefit of GB_Amateur and others in the US, the threepence is pretty close in size to the later 'Seated Liberty' half dime coin. For reference, here's their specs: US Seated half-dime NZ CuNi threepence Simon's oldest threepences are the British ones, 925 Sterling Silver. The more recent NZ ones are 50% silver, and the later Cu-Ni ones are 75% copper/25% nickel. I've now got hold of a couple of NZ Cu-Ni threepences, and on my Eqx600, they read as ID = 7 ( multi , Park1 or 2 ), which is what I would expect, based on what ID other coins I've tested give.( British CuNi sixpence, decimal 5 pence, 1980's Norway 10 Ore). So I'm curious as to the low reading Simon gets. The ID I gave is an airtest value, and an uncorroded coin. They do corrode, quite noticeably, a few days out in the rain and they start to look dull, much like US 5c coins. And Simon's are usually quite deep, though his ground appears to be fairly mild, going by the depth he finds stuff at. How do your threepences airtest, Simon ? I guess you don't have a 'fresh' circulation one to compare with ?
  10. Now that is clever, and funny, thanks for posting it. And there's definitely aspects of LRL innards in this diagram. Not just the hot melt glue - there's the non-functional 'decoy' component; the impenetrable jumble-of-wires; the 'Holy Water' and the magic smoke container; the switch that's glued in the 'open' state so it never functions. An obvious omission is a frog's leg, possibly the first electronic component. And a jar of 'Gypsy tears'. I like the inclusion of the electric eel, an under-rated component, for definite. A few in-jokes appear too: you can use a sandal in place of the 'flip-flop' circuit.
  11. A simple discriminating pinpointer, to mainly be used as a portable detector, rather than a pinpointer, is on my long 'Winter Projects' list. My 'inspiration' is a little-known Polish project, that a thread over on Geotech1 drew attention to: geotech1 pp The Polish original ( hope this translation works OK ): Polish original The problem with commercially making a true VLF pointer is the difficulty/expense of producing an induction-balanced coil. (sorry for off-topic ramblings)
  12. The eagle/shield badge is a US Navy one, the missing bits are anchors. WW2 era, I would think? Like this one: Navy badge another one Keep it up.
  13. To the left of Cook Islands? Seeing as everything else old in NZ seems to be British, perhaps it makes sense the Monopoly sets would be, too. There's an Indian edition with tigers and peacocks as pieces.
  14. Yeah, I was wondering why he didn't recognise it, but thought maybe they had different pieces down under, boomerangs and wallabies or something!
  15. The raw material is expensive; cutting/bending/drilling/grinding is difficult. Welding is not easy, then the heat-treatment needed for some of these fancy steels is quite elaborate. Not just heating to fairly high temperatures then slowly cooled, as you might expect - but it can also include immersion in liquid nitrogen baths to force the 'age-hardening' process. There is a 'How it's made' episode on top-end kitchen knives, they get the nitrogen treatment, I think it's this one: kitchen knives Some background on these steels: wiki maraging steel
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