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About PimentoUK

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  1. I do find it amusing that you got rid of the half-cent in the 1860's, yet the next coin to go is still in use 160 years later. US inflation has to be 50-times since then ? We have managed to lose our lowest-denomination coin a few times, 1956 (farthing) , 1971 ( halfpenny ) 1984 ( decimal halfpenny), but nothing since. We have had higher inflation than you, of course, about 100-times since the late 1800's. [ and trivia : inflation is 5000-times since the Pound Sterling came into use in about 760 AD.]
  2. Yes, throwing them away is another option. In the early 1980's we had a small halfpence coin that was worthless, and they were discarded, children would throw them at each other as weapons, if anyone dropped one, they certainly wouldn't bother picking it up. And rather annoyingly, they target ID identically to a more modern One Pound coin ( about 1.20 US dollars ), which makes cherry-picking these 'valuable' coins more troublesome, in addition to the various aluminium bottletops that ID in that range too. We're overdue getting rid of our near-worthless 1 pence and 2 pence coins ( = 1 & 2 US cents ), our next denomination, the 5 pence, is cheap to make ( steel cored, nickel-plated outer skin), so it can continue in use for the future. You US guys need to ditch the 1 cent and the 5 cent simultaneously. If just the 1c goes, that puts extra demand on the 5c, which is over-expensive to make, so causes more problems. As your 10c is cheap to make, it's OK to have it as the lowest denomination coin.
  3. This has a familiar ring to it. Our neighbours in the Republic of Ireland have had this issue twice in recent history, each time requesting the public 'look in their drawers and stop hoarding money'. Shortly before they transitioned from the Irish Pound to the Euro in 2002, they stopped making the Pound coinage - resulting in a circulation shortage. Then 15 years later they found they were short of near-worthless 1 & 2 Euro-cent coins, as people didn't bother using them more than once before putting them in jars, etc. links: IrishTimes 2000 IrishIndependant 2014
  4. No beauty, but I hope it hold up for a long time, a new coil is not a cheap item. ------ I always wondered what the bolt supplied with Fisher/Tek machines is made of. It's a commercial bolt made from some engineering plastic, possibly like PEEK, that's been over-moulded by FT with some softer plastic like nylon to create the big knurled head. The nut is what it appears to be, no 'embedded' high-strength nut. PEEK fasteners seem to be seriously expensive in small quantities, maybe they become more cost-effective when 1000's are purchased? The bolt could be glass-filled plastic, that would certainly be cheaper. They seem pretty sturdy, considering they aren't that large in diameter.
  5. Their catalogues are a guide to when a machine was introduced, though they no doubt would be manufactured for a number of years before being discontinued. Here's a French website, with pics of your machine, catalogues: whites detectors whites catalogues and Sven's site has many old catalogues too: treasurelinx site
  6. It would be interesting to see if anyone does know the 'secret'. I have a Coinmaster 2 hipmount version, date code is HD. The few electronics part with any obvious date codes are an IC dated late 1978, and the loudspeaker appearing to be 1980. This is a Savo Scotland produced machine, so may not necessarily match a US-made one. I would suggest looking for date codes on the inner workings. IC's ( if it has any ? ), the loudspeaker, electrolytic capacitors, the potentiometers.
  7. In a nutshell ... it sounds like you've understood it. As I've never used BBS/FBS machines, I never took the time to understand the details, so I can't explain FE/CO properly, but that Knowledge Base pdf seems to cover it, though I'll add another ML article to that post, just fer info.
  8. It has been discussed on Geotech1 and Dankowski's forum. I'll try and pull together a few links that are relevant. There's also a technical paper on ML's website explaining some of FBS operation. The summary is: FBS transmits its two frequencies CONSECUTIVELY. It produces 8 cycles of 25 kHz, followed by 1 cycle of 3.125 kHz, then repeat. The key point is that during the 3.125 kHz transmission, there is no other signal present, so there is just a square-edged waveform with a 160 microsecs gap between two consecutive transitions. This is used as a crude PI signal, which allows the detector to analyse a target differently to how a continuous sine-wave machine would see things. By combining the analysis of 'crude PI' and the 'continuous waveform' (that goes back to BBS machines like the Sov) it's possible to create a 'FE' figure, in addition to the more conventional 'CO / conductivity' one. Multi-IQ does transmit all three of its signals SIMULTANEOUSLY , in a complex square-edged waveform that clearly has a lot of 39 kHz, in addition to the 7.8kHz & 18.2 kHz signals. So there is never a point where there's a big long gap between waveform transitions - about 20 microsecs is as big as it gets. So this 'crude PI' method can't be applied. So to produce FE/CO figures, the Equinox would have to generate something close to a BBS/FBS signal. Long gaps between signal transitions are needed at some point. Possible solutions would include a user choice of Multi-IQ or FBS operating modes. Or perhaps a mashed-together mode, such as one cycle of 5kHz followed by a burst of Multi-IQ waveform for 200 microsecs then repeat. The first of these is simpler, as nothing 'new' needs to be engineered, the existing know-how just needs transferring to the Eqx platform. Here's the Minelab Technical article that mentions the 'FE' - determining technique: ML article There are a couple of other simple 'how detectors work' articles on ML's site that are perhaps too basic, but might be interesting to some: www.minelab.com/usa/support/knowledge-base/articles Here's a couple of Eqx threads on Geotech1 which show the waveform: Geotech EQX Freq Geotech EQX general This FBS thread on Dankowski's Forum unfortunately does contain a lot of poor info as well as good info, and the waveform screengrabs that Yeasty posted up have now 'gone' , so it's not so good now. Dankowski FBS geekery
  9. Quote:"Unless there is something inherently limiting regarding Multi IQ's ability to support Fe-Co target ID ..." There is. The simultaneous multi-freq technique used in the current Equinox models has no means of determining the 'FE' characteristic of a target. But ... as the Equinox would appear to be able to generate any frequency waveform ( it's created by software ) it could be made to run a BBS/FBS-style signal, and hence have CTX-like performance. The limiting characteristics of the coil may affect what is possible. The Eqx seems capable of working at 5kHz and 40 kHz , FBS works at 3.125 kHz & 25 kHz, so maybe a tweaked FBS operating at slightly higher freqs would be viable. There's nothing magical about the FBS frequencies, the 1:8 ratio isn't 'golden' , it was chosen because it was easier to create in the early Sovereign-era electronics.
  10. @ Cobill: I think you've made an error in purchasing those '8000 mAh' cells. The highest capacity I've found available from a known/reliable/trusted brand is 5500 mAh. Those cells in your link are very likely to disappoint, and may well have a capacity some way below 2000 mAh.
  11. I was aways puzzled as to why the Fisher 15" coil was round in shape. Everyone seemed to think the 11 x 7 bi-axial stock coil was a good shape, and presumably the machine would in some way be 'optimised' for that shape. So why wasn't the 15" coil actually a 18" x 13" or suchlike? If you're hoard-hunting, then I guess shape doesn't matter that much, so the round coil would be acceptable. But heavy ... if you're only planning on light-duty use, there is no doubt some weight-saving possible. I have tried large-target hunting with my F75 / stock coil. It works, but really needs a bigger coil in the 15 - 20 inch area to do the job properly. I never bought the Fisher 15 coil, and since buying the Eqx, I've found its stock coil is large enough to give reasonable 'hoard-hunting' potential. So hopefully in the next month I will be trying it out on some farm fields that are ready for crop harvesting.
  12. The problem with the T2 is going to be down to the 'sensitivity hole' , the worst case being when Disc is set around 25-30. The F75 in DE (default) mode has the same issue, when Disc is set to around 11. A quite significant loss of sensitivity occurs, not that the User Manual makes any mention of it. On the F75, increasing Disc from 1 through to 11 causes a progressive loss of sensitivity. Increasing it from 11 through to 23-ish steadily increases sensitivity back to 'full' level. I guess on the T2 this is roughly 1 thru 25 thru 50 ( I've never used a T2) The F75 thankfully has JE ( Jewelry ) mode, which does things differently, and seems to not suffer the 'hole', being sparky regardless of disc settings. I haven't really tried large iron hunting on my F75, so I can't guarantee JE is the best mode, though.
  13. Shelton is a man of few words .... He's demonstrating various 3D printed modifications to his Equinox with telescopic carbon shaft. Audio is in Polish.
  14. FTP coils are pretty hard-wearing, in my experience, but it's not too hard to improvise some basic protection yourself. Thin plastic sheet and a decent amount of black electrical insulating tape is one way. I've salvaged polypropylene ( PP ) from liquid containers like shampoo, engine anti-freeze, whatever. Heating the sheet over a gas stove / barbecue etc will soften it and allow it to be flattened if it has that 'permanent bottle' shape. PP is slippery stuff and is probably better suited than the more common polythene HDPE.
  15. My hunch is that serial number sticker is stating it was made in the second week of 2010, based on 02 10. The sticker also closely resembles the one on my 2009 F75 ( which soon became a completely blank white sticker ) In which case, it's unlikely to out-vintage you. I have food in my kitchen that's older than 2010. But I'm pleased to see you have a machine that truly is designed for the tiny yellow bits of metal you have in NZ.
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