Jump to content

PimentoUK

Member
  • Content Count

    40
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

78 Excellent

About PimentoUK

  • Rank
    Contributor

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. I saw that Stanley digger mentioned on a forum a year or two ago. Knowing that Stanley/Black&Decker stuff is commonly available here, I searched online. Only to find that this digger is not available in the UK - no UK retailer sells it, and Stanley's UK website doesn't mention it either.
  2. Maybe place a 'Wanted' advert in the 'Classified' section, rather than the 'Advice' section ? More people are likely to see it then, as it will appear in the 'Recent Classifieds' block on the right side of the page, too.
  3. ED is in the U.K, he probably didn't put the Lesche on his shortlist because of the cost, though there's also the issue of warranty etc, always troublesome when things get international. By 'unavailable' I meant there are no major dealers selling them, you would have to purchase direct from the US. So there's high postage charges, international payment fees ( eg. PayPal ). Then you may get lucky and it goes through customs easily because it's low value and small. But if it does get the official treatment, add 9% import duties, then 20% V.A.T on top of that. It could easily top 60 GB Pounds ( 75 US dollars). Whereas the UK made Evolution products would be about 30 Pounds, Garrett's Edge is 37 Pounds. digging tools And because no-one uses the Lesche here, we don't really have good data on how strong, reliable, hard-wearing, ergonomic etc it is compared to other offerings. It's clearly an effective tool, as many of the other diggers seem to mimic its design, including the 'Raven' ones listed on the metaldetectingauction link.
  4. Steve: Lesche's are unobtainable here in the U.K, it would cost a ludicrous amount to import one. Evolution products seem well liked by folks on UK forums, the only thing that will wear out is the rubber handgrip.
  5. It seems so, Rick: " Domain Name: DANKOWSKIDETECTORS.COM Registry Domain ID: 228122478_DOMAIN_COM-VRSN Updated Date: 2018-10-06T16:53:02Z Creation Date: 2005-10-12T14:44:25Z Registry Expiry Date: 2019-10-12T14:44:25Z Registrar: eNom, LLC"
  6. When I saw that last photo, my eyes went straight to the key. "I've got one of those!" A quick rummage, and yes, I have an identical one. No surprises it's British, made by H & T.Vaughan. It's for a cylinder lock now usually called a 'Yale' lock, and dates from about 1920. I think it's made of cupro-nickel. I was going to do some experiments on Cu-Ni items to see what worked to bring them silvery again. I have ferric chloride ( it etches copper, so it's used for making electronics PCB's ) so I was going to see if it had any worthwhile effect. The US coin collectors have a product called Nic_A_Date that etched cupro-nickel coins and can reveal lost details, like dates. It's just ferric chloride. Mechanical methods work, like tumbling, fibreglass pencils, silicon carbide paper, but dangerous chemicals have to be tried too, it's only right. H&T.V link : HT&V My key was cleaned with a fibreglass pencil, which took off the red-brown deposits, but the exposed surface was a mix of silver and black, which I was hoping to improve on. Attached:
  7. It's good to see you're doing well over here, some rain arrived just in time to soften the summer concrete for you. A Bronze Age tool is on my wish-list, I've found fragments, casting scrap, but not the full item yet. For everyone, here's a summary of British coins, with some photos of very choice examples: Tony Clayton Site .. the bronze Victoria penny: bronze penny
  8. I stumbled across a few UK magazine issues, Searcher and Treasure Hunting, on the Archive site: magazines
  9. As a Geotech1 regular, we've discussed this complicated issue. The depth that eddy currents penetrate depends significantly on the frequency you're applying, so higher freqs do indeed 'see the skin', and lower freqs penetrate much deeper. But the other relevant variable is the target metal: specifically the electrical resistivity ( or conductivity ). Good conductors, like copper, silver, don't support much skin penetration. And lousy conductors, like most cupro-nickel alloys have much deeper skin depths. For the mathematically inclined: The skin depth varies with the square-root of the resistivity. So for example a metal that has resistivity 4 times greater than pure copper will have a skin depth 2 times greater than copper. To use real data, coin cupro-nickel has a resistivity about 20 times that of copper, so skin depth is about 4.5 times greater ( square root of 20 ). Currents flow 4.5 times deeper into the metal. So your typical machine will see 'all' of a 5 cent cupro-nickel coin. But probably only the outer 0.5mm skin of a silver Morgan Dollar, for example. And the cladding on a clad 25c coin contributes little to the overall response. And, yes, magnetic characteristics are important, too. Iron/steel/pure nickel are ferromagnetic, and really don't support deep currents at all, and it gets worse as test frequency increases. This is why high freq machines like the 100 kHz Compass models ( Yukon, 66 ? ) can 'see through' small iron. At 100k, they only see the tiniest skin of a nail, which makes the nail very 'small'. - meaning the nail doesn't give much signal itself, plus it doesn't distort the magnetic field much, so there's less masking, and other targets become visible.
  10. Though I've not tried it, a possible way of recreating the coin on edge situation is this: Find a clean patch of ground in a place you can re-find. Use a large kitchen knife or something similiar to push in a vertical slot of the required depth. Slot in a non-valuable coin, maybe use a tool like a screwdriver to push it down to depth. Enjoy swinging your detector over it. This would also work for coins nearly on edge, if your slot is angled. I've had a look at NZ threepences on UK eBay, they're pretty cheap ( from the right seller ...) , so for now, Simon, I won't be needing one. Keep them stockpiled, in case I have any new plans .. We have some special-themed markets here. Classic car 'bootsales' are known as 'Autojumbles' , some of the big ones are amazing, so much vintage stuff, and the sellers are really knowledgable, you name it, they'll be in the back of their truck, returning with some air filter for a 1937 Humber "there you go mate". Where has all this stuff been hiding for 80 years? More niche are Aerojumbles, catering for the aviation crowd.
  11. Hmmm ... I was speaking in general, most of my experience is with single-freq machines, and they seem to do it with both DD and concentric coils. But my limited Eqx time seemed to show the same behaviour ( DD only, clearly ) Please educate us all if you have any Eqx tips on the matter. One thing I have not done much of is switching between multi-F and single-F modes to analyse tricky targets - is this a situation where it could help? We have 'flea markets' here in the UK, but they tend to be a bit more upmarket. The sellers are more likely to be commercial dealers, and the goods on offer tend to be more collectible/antique/vintage - with prices reflecting this. Does this match the US version? Though professional traders do attend boot sales, their draw to me is the low end pitches. Ordinary folks having a clear out; amateur traders selling stuff they've acquired from house clearance auctions, industrial surplus, goodness knows what sources. One regular seller at my local bootsale used to 'dumpster dive' around industrial areas, always had an eclectic assortment of stuff, priced cheap.
  12. Good stuff, Simon. I'm sure all the park hunters know the tell-tale signs of a coin on edge. They beep twice when you sweep across the coin in the correct direction. When you sweep at 90 degrees, they beep once. The 'pinpoint' location is halfway between the two beeps ... though if one beep is noticeably stronger, dig towards the stronger beep. If you just aim for one beep, you'll almost certainly stick your spade right through the coin. I was wondering if you might come up with a cupro-nickel NZ threepence. It's a coin I have on my 'to buy' list when I'm looking at 'mixed foreign coins' at Car Boot Sales. I'll probably end up buying some on eBay. They make an interesting low conductivity test target. We never got them here in the UK. Though we had Sterling and 50% silver threepences, like NZ's ones, they were replaced by larger thick brass coins. When silver coins were replaced by Cu-Ni after WW2, a Cu-Ni version of the small 3d coin never happened for us. Do you think other events could've been held on this field, like carnivals, funfairs, visiting circus, markets, where money was spent? Or other sporting events where money exchange happened? (You do have Car Boot Sales in NZ, I'm sure. They originated in Canada, we embraced them in the late 1970's. They never made it to the US, though. They just have 'garage / yard sales'. They don't know what they're missing. "Car boot" = US: "Vehicle trunk". For the Yanks: bootsale guide
  13. d for Denarius, the Roman penny. The old British coinage system ( and also New Zealand ) was often referred to as LSD = Libra, Solidus, Denarius = Pound, shilling, pence.
  14. It's EPNS; Electro-plated nickel-silver. 'Nickel-silver' is cupro-nickel, there's no silver in it. The whole thing is then electroplated with a thin silver layer. They normally go pink if they've been in the ground long enough. 3 DWTS PER DOZ = 3 pennyweight per dozen, which doesn't make sense, as 3 pennyweight is about 5 grams, and a dozen of those spoons would weigh more like 300 grams. Update: it's referring to the thickness/quality of the silver plating ... 5 grams of silver per 12 spoons. Which looks like a bit on the low end, quality cutlery is 8,10+ DWT. VINER&S.LTD is Viners of Sheffield: Viners Sheffield is ( was) a major steelworking city in northern England, a lot of cutlery was produced there in the past. It's possibly military issue, so maybe dating to WW2. They typically have other military markings on them, like 'arrow' symbols.
  15. Based on my experience here in the UK, I think you'll find Crowns extremely rare. Full sovs were also little used, half sovs more so. Do you know when sovereigns stopped being used in everyday transactions in NZ ? Things were perhaps a bit different here, thanks to WW1. By the end of that, gold coins ceased being used, a combination of the government persuading people to give up their gold and start using banknotes, and the fluctuating price of gold meant they were often worth more in scrap than their face value. Some background reading on the war and gold: RoyalMint I don't know if you have full / half sov coins to test on the Eqx, but I think half sovs will read about 15. Full sovs about 18.
×
×
  • Create New...