Jump to content

Search the Community

Showing results for tags 'batteries and chargers'.

  • Search By Tags

    Type tags separated by commas.
  • Search By Author

Content Type


Forums

  • Metal Detecting & Gold Prospecting Forums
    • Meet & Greet
    • Detector Prospector Forum
    • Metal Detecting For Coins & Relics
    • Metal Detecting For Jewelry
    • Metal Detector Advice & Comparisons
    • Metal Detecting & Prospecting Classifieds
    • Compass, D-Tex, Tesoro, Etc.
    • First Texas - Bounty Hunter, Fisher & Teknetics
    • Garrett Metal Detectors
    • Minelab Metal Detectors
    • Nokta / Makro Metal Detectors
    • Tarsacci Metal Detectors
    • White's Metal Detectors
    • XP Metal Detectors
    • Metal Detecting For Meteorites
    • Gold Panning, Sluicing, Dredging, Drywashing, Etc
    • Rocks, Minerals, Gems & Geology

Categories

  • Best of Forums
  • Gold Prospecting
  • Steve's Guides
  • Steve's Mining Journal
  • Steve's Reviews

Categories

  • Free Books
  • Bounty Hunter
  • Fisher Labs
  • Garrett Electronics
  • Keene Engineering
  • Minelab Electronics
  • Miscellaneous
  • Nokta/Makro
  • Teknetics
  • Tesoro Electronics
  • White's Electronics
  • XP Metal Detectors
  • Metal Detector Settings

Find results in...

Find results that contain...


Date Created

  • Start

    End


Last Updated

  • Start

    End


Filter by number of...

Joined

  • Start

    End


Group


Website URL


Facebook


YouTube


Instagram


Twitter


Pinterest


LinkedIn


Skype


Location:


Interests:


Gear Used:

  1. I had something strange happen, today. I had my GPX 6000 battery fully charged and fresh off the charger. It had completed its charge cycle and then trickle charged overnight. I popped it in the detector and started detecting. Within five minutes the battery meter dropped from three bars to two bars. If I turned off the detector and let it sit for a 5-10 minutes and then turned it back on, it would go back up to three bars for a short period of time before then going back to two bars. Has anyone else noticed this with theirs?
  2. I love my Excalibur but the stock battery pod construction leaves a bit to be desired. My main gripe is the cheap and somewhat brittle plastic pod, especially the battery cap threads as these will crack if tightened too much. Water and fine silt also gets into the fine opening just before the O ring. Small surface cracks seem to appear for no apparent reason 🤬 So I managed to pickup two new underwater camera enclosures that were priced to clear (rated to 200m). These are 15mm thick acrylic cases and very high quality. I was able to get equally high quality suitable connectors for the battery power cable from Aquascan in the UK as Ikelite no longer make this part. I also wanted to charge the Lithium 18650 cells externally (and not in a sealed case) as they can generate heat when charging. The 3 x 18650 cells should give quite a long run time…..much the same as the R&B battery. I’ve got two of these cases now plus the original NiMH pod and the R&B pack. There is no noticeable extra drag in the water that I can feel even though the case has a somewhat larger profile in the water. Two stainless bolts secure the cases (as shown). There is actually room inside for 6 x 18650 cells which would be about a 6000 mAh battery pack 👍
  3. I have a old EQ, out of warranty. Seems i have more EMI problems the last year or so. Been told a battery swap might fix this. I see them for sale for around $30 bucks but haven't looked at them seriously. Battery life seems fine but if i can reduce EMI problems it would be worth it. Anyone been thru this? thanks
  4. This topic has come up before but I haven't been able to find the thread I remember, and battery technology seems to change rapidly anyway. I'm wanting a small device which can serve two purposes: 1) charge up my detecting rechargeable batteries multiple times, and 2) be capable of jump starting my vehicle in the event its battery runs down. I thought there was a solution for all three, but it seems devices I'm finding capable of jump starting a vehicle are both A) bulky and B) don't carry all that much charge. No expert here but I think a unit capable of jump starting a vehicle has to have high current capability. The small lithium devices with lots of charge tend not to put out a lot of current. Here are a couple interesting, affordable small devices I found searching Amazon, both carrying quite a bit of charge (neighborhood of 40 Ah = 40,000 mAh). But I don't think they put out enough current to jump start a vehicle. Wall charging type. Solar charging type. Can anyone point me to a high (charge) capacity, high current capable (for jumping a vehicle), compact charger?
  5. whats the fit like and general quality ?? as seen on the bay
  6. Hello. I am expecting my new Nokta Legend pro pack this Friday, and I am already "pre-learning" it (watching videos, studying the manual that I downloaded, etc.) My question is about the external battery: Am I supposed to connect it only after the internal battery is depleted, or is it ok to start detecting with both batteries full charged and the external connected before the internal one runs out? I can't find an answer to it in the manual, and I am afraid to do anything that may damage the detector. Thanks!
  7. Hello everyone, I just got my first detector with a Lipo battery. It's the Notka/Makro Simplex+. Since I have no knowledge on this technology, I looked into how to care for this battery. So, I looked here and didn't see a topic on break in procedure. I went online and one expert said he studies batteries and races RC. He claims to extend the life of his batteries and the internal resistance drops once broken in gently. He listed a process in where he gently (low amp) charges then uses a slow discharge then lets it rest for over night. Then slowly charge, then rest then discharge. Then rest. The explanation goes into quite a detail on how low of voltage before stopping the discharge. However, it boils down to discharging to about 10%. Then fully charge. Well, I wanted to post this info here rather than just a link in case his website goes away. So, who on this forum can add to this? I am going to go slow in charging my detector for the first time. I don't see it hurting. Also, news to me is storage should be around 40% for long term. I store long term during the winter months. Below I took only his conversation on the actual process and a couple of comments he made. There is some talk of other things as well and one guy just trying to prove his point. So, this is the meat of the talk. This has helped me I think. Here's the info: How I Break-In New LiPo Batteries (Lowers Internal Resistance Slightly and Prepares Cells for High Demand so they Last Longer): Link: https://www.rctech.net/forum/radio-electronics/1074298-how-i-break-lipo-lithium-polymer-batteries.html I prepare new LiPos by running the first 3 cycles slowly on the charger. This allows the electrolyte in the cells to stabilize and get used to both their fully charged and fully discharged states. Every time I do it, I do notice a small drop in Internal Resistance, and my LiPos seem to last for years and years. These days, many people say that breaking in your LiPo is a waste of time, but I can tell you for sure that it certainly makes a difference for me. So with that being said, here is how you do it properly: For all break in cycles, you will want to BOTH charge and discharge VERY SLOWLY. The MAXIMUM rate of charge or discharge for break-in is 0.5C, I usually run somewhere in-between 0.25C and 0.5C. For Example: Breaking in these new Ovonic 3S 5200mAH LiPos, ALL of the charges and discharges were run at 2.0A, or 0.38C. Yes, it is time consuming, but as I said, it ACTUALLY makes a difference. So, on to the actual process: STEP ONE: SLOWLY charge to 100% fully charged (4.20V Per Cell for standard LiPos, 4.35V Per Cell for LiHV packs). Unplug the battery when finished. Allow battery to rest and settle for 20-30 mins. Plug the battery back in and run CHARGE CYCLE AGAIN. This additional charge is performed because the battery will lose some voltage while settling, and it needs to be topped off. Once the Battery is topped off, unplug the battery and let it sit fully charged for 4-12 hours. This will allow the electrolyte and internal chemistry to become accustomed to its fully charged state. I usually leave the topped-off batteries overnight and then proceed to the next step first thing after I wake up in the morning. STEP TWO: SLOWLY Discharge the battery to a voltage of 3.7V Per cell. This very gentle discharge will only drain about 60% of the LiPo's capacity, or "mAH". This is something done deliberately because a fresh LiPo stays healthier if it is "eased" into a full discharge. As with the first step, unplug the battery when finished, settle for 20-30 mins, and then re-run discharge. You will notice that the oppasite has happened versus step one. Now the voltage will have bounced back up. These things happen because just like running the battery in an RC, charging and discharging puts a load on the battery. This means the voltage sags when discharging past what the actual voltage is, just as the voltage spikes when charging. This is why we re-run every single charge or discharge during break-in. We need the voltage to be as close as humanly possible to our actual target. So, after re-running the discharge to 3.7V per cell (11.1V total voltage on 3S pack for example), ensure that cells are balanced and unplug the battery. Again, as with the first step, now its time for the battery to fully settle in this state for 4-12 hours. Then you can proceed to step three. STEP THREE: SLOWLY charge to 100% again, same very slow rate as step one. Again, unplug and allow 30 mins to settle, re-run charge, then unplug and allow 4-12 hours. STEP FOUR: Same as step TWO but with ONE VERY IMPORTANT CHANGE: Now your discharge target will be 3.5V Per Cell (10.5V total Voltage on 3S Pack). Again, Unplug, settle for 30 mins, then re-run discharge. Finally, unplug, settle for 4-12 hours. STEP FIVE: FINAL SLOW FULL CHARGE. Unplug and settle for 30 mins, then re-run charge. Unplug and settle for 4-12 hours. STEP SIX: FINAL SLOW DISCHARGE. Target will be 3.3 Volts per cell (9.9V total voltage for 3S pack). You do NOT want to discharge your pack ANY LOWER than this, EVER. If you have an intelligent charger that can count mAH pumped in or taken out (like my ProTek Prodigy 625 Duo Touch can), you will notice that your full mAH rating will be drained going from fully charged to 3.3V per cell. The idea that discharging to 3.0V per cell on LiPos is okay for LiPos is actually a common misconception. 3.0V per cell will actually damage the life of the battery, just very slightly and very slowly, so it is considered acceptable. However, if you do your research, you will find that setting your LVC on your ESCs to 3.3V per cell or higher is the ONLY TRUE WAY to keep your LiPos FULLY HEALTHY for years to come. As with all other steps, unplug the battery when its done discharging and allow to settle for 20-30 mins, then re-run the discharge. Now, unplug and allow settling for 4-12 hours. FINAL STEP (SEVEN): After allowing your battery to FULLY settle at 3.3V per cell, you can return the battery to proper storage voltage (3.80-3.85V per cell) until it is time to stick it into a vehicle. When you are ready to run it in a vehicle, run the first usage charge at the same slow charge rate you used when breaking in, allow to settle for 30 mins, and top-off. Then, when running vehicle, take it a bit easy. You don't have to drive super slowly, but avoid full throttle and wheelies and things that put the battery under immense power draw for just the first run. Ensure your LVC (Low Voltage Cutoff) is set properly and do your best to drive the vehicle until you hit LVC. After this first run, you can now use your LiPo normally, using your choice of charge rate (I always recommend 1.5C or less for battery health longevity), and you can drive as you see fit as well. Monitor battery temps closely until you know how your battery responds to high demand. I hope this helps some of you guys get a bit more power and life out of your Lithium-Polymer batteries. These batteries aren't cheap, so I find it more than worth the time and effort to break them in, for the healthiest and longest-lasting batteries possible! One detail I forgot to mention: A good example is the fact that these Ovonic LiPos started with an Internal resistance of 4.4 MiliOhms on their first charge. However, after running my Break-In process, my charger now shows 3.2 MiliOhms average per cell at full charge and after settling for 60 minutes (this is how you properly measure IR, LiPo MUST be fully charged, topped off, and allowed to settle for 60 minutes in a environment with standard room temperature of 70-80°F). Firstly, leaving a LiPo fully charged for a few hours at a time does no harm to it. Usually, once you leave a LiPo fully charged or discharged for about 48-72 hours, THEN you will begin to see slight degredation in the life of the battery. If you leave it fully charged for weeks or a month (a mistake often made by people new to the hobby) then that might be enough to finally seriously damage or kill the battery. If leaving a LiPo fully charged for just a few hours hurt them, nobody would be buying them. You can find articles if you do your research that will explain how Lithium battery chemistry benefits from allowing the electrolyte to become accustomed to being fully charged. If you look at HRB USA website, you will find in LiPo battery product descriptions that they even recommend a break-in process for their batteries. The owner of SMC Racing and I have spoken about this over E-Mail before as well. One of my favorite sites for learning about battery technology is "Battery University". A very good read indeed. For instance, did you know that when LiPos were first invented, Break-Ins were MANDATORY for satisfactory performance? If you didn't do a proper break-in, your battery likely burst or put out very little power. There were several reports of bursting batteries to show that it truly wasn't an option. Now days, its not 100% necessary, but I have been doing RC for 16 years. Yes, Ive tested more than just 2 packs. This is just ONE example. Ive been breaking in LiPos now for about 8-9 years. In that time I have noticed changes on about all but one pack. Somewhere in the neighborhood of 50 packs tested. 5 Manufacturers, I run ProTek LiHV packs, Gens Ace Bash packs and Redline LiHV packs, SMC Racing Packs, Fantom Race Packs, and Ovonic Bash packs. Now as I said, the difference made on expensive race packs like Fantom was minimal. There WAS an observable difference, but was the process woth the time and effort? Eh, debatable. I suppose you could just charge slowly the first couple charges and drive gently the first couple drives if you want an easier way to break in that doesn't seem like a waste of time. I prefer the charger because I can observe and measure the difference from start to finish.
  8. Seeing these parts are getting scarce and I needed a battery door for a Cibola I whipped up one and printed it out. Seems to be working well. I used an SLA printer but recommend an FDM or SLS print as they would be stronger. Better choise of material would be ABS or PLA. Can files can be found on my onedrive here: https://1drv.ms/u/s!AjccxQu5QhuelFqzB1wbY0LvAHz7 There are a slew of 3d print houses out there ie shapeways etc. Enjoy!
  9. Hello, Please Help. I Have A Gpz7000 Battery That Does Not Work With The Detector. After I Removed The Battery, It Became Clear That The Cells Were Working Fine And There Were No Problems. I Checked The Cells With A Voltmeter At The Outlet Of The Battery مرحبا ارجو المساعدة. لدي بطارية gpz7000 لا تعمل مع الكاشف. بعد أن قمت بإزالة البطارية ، أصبح من الواضح أن الخلايا تعمل بشكل جيد ولا توجد مشاكل. راجعت الخلايا باستخدام مقياس الفولتميتر عند مخرج البطارية. لا يوجد جهد 7.2 فولت تشغيل الكاشف مع العلم أن جميع الأجزاء المثبتة سليمة ، لا أعرف ما إذا كانت عبارة عن برنامج
  10. I would think the Detecting Doodads Coil Charging Clip would work… any reason why not?
  11. Just got the D2 last nite and when I charged the remote with the included plug the plug doesn't go very far and is loose and falls out easily. I have it lined up correctly. I don't see how that will work when trying to upgrade the system. If it looses connection while doing an update it could cause a lot of problems. am I missing something on this? I don't want to push too hard for fear of bending or breaking any of those tiny thin pins. It's freezing and more snow coming so I am trying to figure out the menu system. I did scan some coins and stuff under the coil to see approximate TID's and to hear tonal nuance (CD) lol The EMI in this house is crazy and you should see what it looks like in the XY screen... lol
  12. Just wandering how long it takes to fully charge the equinox battery?
  13. Dear all, My detector is Makro Racer Pro. It says "Battery low" always even replaced batteries by new batteries. Could you help me to solve this problem?
  14. I'm really liking what I'm seeing with the Deus 2 however never owning one, I have concerns for / about saltwater durability and the charging connections. I've dealt with minor charging problems with the connections on the Equinox and was just curious if anyone had an idea how the Deus coils hold up to saltwater use on a fairly consistant basis...I mainly water hunt. Cliff
  15. Does anyone make the 14v battery for this machine or anyone have a used one they want to sell i am not handy enough to make my own. Saw the video on utube
  16. I am going to do a little complaining and its only directed at Minelab batteries. As an owner and consumer of Minelab products I have to say their GPX Li-Ion stock battery with amp disapoints. Never had a problem with them charging and holding a good charge, of course over time the batteries time is reduced. My grip is with the amp, this is the 2nd battery that the amp failed , its a shame that a 440 dollar battery the amp goes out after 2 years. This should not happen on such an expensive battery, are these amps or amp connectors replaceable?
  17. This is from Steve’s GPX 6000 accessories page. The following items do not come with the GPX 6000, but are likely to work with it based on what is known so far. This is preliminary guesswork, and it is not advised a purchase be made based solely on the information presented here. https://parts.minelab.com/0302-0082-p/0302-0082.htm
  18. Shutting it down for this season. During winter I routinely charge up my tector batteries once a week or so for the 6-7 months until spring. Question.....is this the right thing to do? What happens to battery life if I don't keep them charged up? Also curious if I need to keep the wireless ML phones charged regularly and what happens if I don't...??? Thanks for the input.....
  19. i have had to use a 3rd party clip clamped onto the coil with a G clamp to charge the coil as the coil cover is out of shape despite it being new and unblemished its buckled in the area of the contacts ..both clips wont contact the terminals so i took off the coil cover to connect the 3rd party clip with a clamp
  20. Hi all. I use a GPZ 7000 at the moment. I will be looking at the new 6000 early in the new year. I spoke to a supplier today asking if the mains charger for the 7000 is compatible with battery for the 6000. WAS TOLD NO, as the 7000 mains power transformer supplied is 18 volt not 12 volt. Looking at both systems firstly the 7000 series. Tansformer input 240 volt- 0.7 amp output output 18 volt- 1.67 amp Goes to BC 10 cradle input 11-30 volt 23w max output 8.4 volt- 2 amp AND 5 volt- 0.67 amp The battery states 7.2 volt total capacity 72Wh Now the GPX 6000 Transformer input 240 volt- .5 amp Max output 12 volt- 10 amp Trans plugs directly into battery input 12 volt- 1.0 amp? output 7.2 volt- 42Wh What this tells me is Minelab have produced a new detector which uses the same voltage to run as the 7000 but the charging components are not compatible between the models. Should be. The new 6000 uses a reduced capacity battery (weight issue?)which does not last the full day, then you need a spare which you cant charge with mains power until the original is fully charged in about 5/6 hours. After a big day in the field I cant stay awake to swap the batteries so I need another transformer as well? I am told by the Dealer though you could use the two car power leads as they are connected to a 12 volt car battery. Cheers sturt
  21. Newbie here. So I'm getting ready to train my customers at Rye Patch, NV and many will have their new GPX-6000's. Here is my question for those of you who have learned. Yes I've seen the video with the gator clips to a 12V vehicle battery, but what they don't say is for how long does it typically take? Will it run a battery down in the winter cold of NV? We'll be out there off the grid for 3 day and some of us much longer. I'd like to get those have already figured out the timing and or a new way of charging the battery. Funny thing is my 1 Ton diesel can charge my GPZ-7000 and my Equinox 800 with no issues and even when the truck is turned off. I just plug into the outlets provided inside the truck dash. My 1/2 ton gas truck only charges when the truck is running and as soon as I turn it off, all chargers go off as well. Your help is needed so I can try and prepare my customers. This salty dog is still learning new tricks on the GPX-6000... with your help that is. Thanks in advance.
  22. I'd like another...anyone know where to buy? strick
  23. I recently purchased these They are the proper 1.5 volt and lithium batteries. They work well in my Tesoro that tends to chew up batteries fairly quickly. Will see how they hold up. They should not fade in performance as regular Alkalines do. $20 for 4 is pretty good. Much less than the $80 I paid for my AT Pro lithium pack.
  24. Buy yourself a metal detecting flashlight holder $5, and a power bank with built in flashlight $5-$20. I personally prefer the larger waterproof solar power bank with dual LEDs. Great for night time surf hunts All available on eBay.
×
×
  • Create New...