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I have been noticing the past few years that everything is going to rechargeable systems. At least the popular brands are. There is only 1 SMF unit I can think of that doesn't and that is the Vanquish line. I know it is supposed to be convenient and less cost in the long run but, I would like to have a new unit that is competitive with the current line up that takes replacement batteries. I mean these rechargeable systems are running less than 6 volts I believe anyways. With that said I am good with the 4 AA set up. The same can be said with the wireless headphones too. I have been buying some older units just to have handy in case my manticore battery craps out on me. And speaking of rechargeable stuff, I must say the equinox and manticore charge system is way better than the XP Deus line up. I prefer using XP stuff but their fiddly little clips and screw in things are a pain in the A$$. I would like a deus 2 that runs on AA batteries. Maybe the Deus 3 will do that! Does anyone else ever feel that way? At least Nokta makes a pod for extra batteries in case you run low or something happens and the thing did not charge right.

Curious as all hell about this question. Would it be possible for the Owner/Layman to do the procedure at home ? Or is this something the Factory recommends you send the unit in to them for ? Approximate Cost ? Inquiring minds want to know ! ??

It says it only works if internal battery fully discharged. I've never used one - does it work?

I mentioned this in passing on a thread, but I've been looking for a way to keep the Manticore charged for marathon hunts, both in the fields and on the beach. While no solution is perfect, this is about the best I can find currently. The biggest problem you will still face is galvanic corrosion if you are in a salt environment, and I don't recommend immersing the detector much past the lower rod if you decide to use it in water. It's IP67. Here's the battery: It can be found here: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0BX3KC6Y6 They offer a smaller and larger one but this seems to work out well. It should keep the detector charged for about 12 hours or more if you only use it when the battery starts to get low. Simply unscrew the top and connect a charging cable. It's waterproof and dustproof until you open it. Then it is not waterproof or dustproof. I'd also consider protecting the charging cable in some way with an electrical compound, if it gets wet at all you can lose your charging cable and burn the contacts with galvanic corrosion. Here's how I mount it: I use two ball bungees for the unit and one for the cable. You can get a 10 pack of them for like 8 bucks here: https://www.amazon.com/Xpose-Safety-Bungee-Ball-Cords/dp/B07FJQBC6G They come in ridiculous amounts like 30 for even less. 6 inch works great. Here's a side view: I have a magnetic shovel mount on mine that kinda gets in the way but this is a better solution than the much larger and heavier battery I've been using. While not using it simply tuck the wire and close the cap. You can tuck the cap under the socket when using it to keep it from rattling. It doesn't add much weight to your detector, and because it is under the arm cuff you won't notice it much, and it also will counterweight a heavier coil. It only weighs 236g or about 1/2 pound. As a last word, do not use this rig in rain or on blustery sea days when there is a lot of salt spray. 🤔 I'll be field testing it at the beach all next week, and will update this thread with results. 🍀

I've got two batteries for my Algoforce so far, both work great but I've discovered they make battery banks for a tough life, and well, at least for me that's hanging off the bottom of my metal detector and seeing I like my Algo so much I'm going to treat it to a tough battery Dark Energy Poseidon PRO Power Bank Portable Charger Kit - Survival Supplies Australia It's about double the price of a normal one, if not more, but it's made for the outdoors even being waterproof IP68 Poseidon Pro – Dark Energy It claims to hold a charge for 8 years. The video is funny, they blow it up, shoot it, drown it, you name it and it survives.... and all this and it's significantly cheaper than a Minelab battery ?

Hello. This is for anyone who is interested in designing and printing their own things such as spare parts or accessories and has no experience with it. For my part, I wanted to have a second Whites battery compartment for Li-ion batteries and I quickly created it with free software and gave the created STL-file to a friend of my daughter to print, and the printing worked straight away. There are some software manufacturers that advertise free 3D CAD software, but I have only found one that can really be used without restrictions. and that is freecad. freecad is also available across platforms for Linux, MAC and Windows. There are also countless tutorials on the Internet that will teach you how to use freecad, in writing and as videos. People who have experience with 3D printing know that the printer requires slicer software, usually already included with the printer. But there are free alternatives here too. The next goal on my agenda is a budget 3D printer. I hope this post helps some people solve their problems and realize their ideas. All The Best

Had to surrender both of my now 6 hr. (49 watt) cells for this machine today because they have no outside markings showing the wattage. This have no more wattage than most laptop batteries but because they are external they are subject to more scrutiny. Shame the AQ is my secret weapon and I will be withoout it on this trip when I need it the most. You would think that one could extrapolate the wattage from the charger but it was in my checked anyhow. I hope to get them back on the return but you never know with airlines. I notice that FT did take my advice on the angle that the charge port comes out of the cell face. It was on an angle on the orignal proto I suggested that it be flush as these M8 connectors are hard enough to work with when you can birds-eye them with a flush mount. Bet that saves FT a lot of returns, and a lot of customers the frustrating experience of breaking a pin, or worse breaking it off in the appeture. Not a bad product but it needs proper markings -- if you were returning (boarding) from somwhere they could just keep it and you would have no recourse. cjc

The other day I was offered some coils. When I picked them up the guy gave me a Minelab GP Extreme for free. It had two battery packs, a wall charger, and a car charger. All four were dead and I assumed the detector was too from the looks of it. I managed to get it up and running on wall power, then proceeded to build a lithium ion battery pack for it. Since I was in strip and solder mode, I threw in an audio booster that's currently only adjustable by an internal pot, but I'll be putting a dial on the pack. First video from when I first started playing around with it. I had never even touched one of these before so I'm just tickled about the ideas of what to do with it. And an update video: Apologies for the rambling on in the video. I was enjoying fiddling with it and talking about my plans for it. I attached some pics of it before and after. It came with the 1100 and 1800 coils along with a Super Goldsearch 8" coil. But it's getting a drag coil.

Is it ok to leave batteries for my GPX 6000 discharged after a prospecting trip until my next trip

I would like to do an experiment: if I took a standard White's Electronics slide-out battery pack, installed 7 AA 1.5 volt Alkalines ( thus. 10.5 volts) and then added 1 lithium 3.7 AA (which I have seen on Amazon ) would I have a USABLE 14.2 volt battery? I want to see if I can improve the depth of my TDI SL. ALSO: if this works, can anyone recommend a particular brand of 3.7 volt true AA 3.7 v. Batteries? Thanks!

I have purchased 2 of Doc's Gold Screamer Power Pack systems over the years as I have owned a GPX5000 for 10+ years. The control box cover bottom tents to wear out after setting it down several times over time. I have used iron on patches on the inside and outside to prolong the life of the cover. In my case, I found camo patches to iron on the outside, looks kinda cool, anyway, this is one way to fix your covers.

Just thought I would share my wireless setup for anyone thinking of trying this. I have used Avantree Saturn Pro (Low Latency) bluetooth Transmitter/receiver and some Camcorder batteries. I have also got a couple of Lipo batteries from my RC which run the 5000 really well as they keep their voltage for longer. The leads I made myself with genuine power plugs and a deans RC battery plug and a 1/8 audio jack so as to go straight into bluetooth wireless module. These little module are very good and are lasting well over the 8 hour mark on a charge, and their size and weight make them very versatile. The 7200mah pack and wireless module come in at 325 grams with leads included this lasts about 5-6hours I have made up a couple of 3400mah packs with 18650 cells and these weight 180 grams with module and leads and lasts about 3 hours. I have a 5000mah Lipo hardcase which weight 200 grams with both wires and module, this goes for 7 hours before the low voltage alarm comes. Lipo batteries aren't for everyone as they can be a little volatile, but I am yet to have one explode and treat them with care when charging with a good lipo charger.

So I picked up another GB2, I think my 3rd. After a 10 year stint in the West TX oilpatch I am back to prospecting. I got the GB2 again for picking out dinks while i drywash. I found an old 2015 post from Steve stating that these worked. Looking for info on what's recommended now in a rechargeable 9v for GB2 Thanks

I was thinking today about all the newer detectors that have built in batteries. Most manufacturers say they are good for 5 to 10 years and thousands of charges. Well, what happens if or when they go bad? I haven't seen any mention from any manufacturer about replacements being available. I guess I'm old school and like the battery separate and not built in. I suppose a few of us could replace the built-ins ourselves. Just ranting! Best wishes to all! snakejim

Does anyone here (dealer's included) redo the batteries for the GPX 5000? One of mine does not charge past 5 or 6 volts. Some cells must be dead in it. I'm not the kind of guy that wants to tear it apart and put new batteries in it. So looking to ship it out to get all new cells in it, if possible.

Asked by a friend to make a battery pack for his new TDI Pro. 4 cell 16.8 volt, most important thing is to buy brand name batteries from a well know source. I like Samsung, Panasonic, Molice, Epoch, Sony, Nitecore.. And most of the time I purchase from the 18650 battery store. One thing as your assembling the battery pack, keep a bucket of water and a fire extinguisher near by, Li-ion batteries can be very dangerous and can short out fast causing injuries and fire. I know TDI Pro's are becoming rare but for those that still have them I'm sure many need new batteries so I figured sharing this information may help. Whites TDI Pro Parts list Panasonic NCR18650GA 3450mAh Li-ion Pigtail Barrel Plug Connector cable 2.5mm x 5.5mm Male and Female connectors (Male for the Battery pack and Female for the charger) PVC Clear Heat shrink tube 95mm wide (I chose clear for Earl but comes in Blue, Black, and Red) Heat transfer tape 10mm Polyimide Brown 4s 10A 18650 BMS 16.8v Protection module Tenergy Universal TLP3000 1.5a charger for Li-ion 4 cells 14.8v Black assorted shrink tubing Nickel strips assorted 2 inch Battery Insulating rings Red Battery Insulating material Gray 18 gauge wire assorted colors Red-Black-White-Yellow 2 part . 15 minute dry epoxy Assemble batteries in the correct order with small amount Epoxy drops between each Make up nickel ends that will connect to B1 B2 B3 on the PCB and the battery Measure and fit Measure and trial fit PCB/BMS board Connect wires 18 gauge Weld or solder nickel ends Nickel ends welded and ready to connect to PCB's B1 B2 B3 Black to B1 White to B2 Yellow B3 White wire under PCB to B2 ...... notice insulation under PCB 2 Red and 2 Black wires ready ... soldered to Nickel fittings, ready to solder to ............. B+ B- wire to PCB/BMS Checking B+ B- 13.60 volts low charge P+... P- will be dead until the battery charger is hooked up...it wakes the battery pack up Fitting/soldering 5.5 x 2.5 females to the battery charger.. red to red and black to black ..outer shell is Neg, Pin is Positive Batt packs on charge, red lights indicate charging Pic out of place........... but showing male 5.5 x 2.5 barrel plug to P+ P- on the PCB Insulation is put under the PCB and on both sides of the battery to protect from shorts....Shrink wrap is slide in place and ready for the heat gun to shrink Two finished 16.8 volt battery Packs Finished Charger and Battery packs

Hello - I have a Minelab Eq800 which uses a sealed lithium-ion battery. As far as I know, having checked TSA and FAA websites, a Li-ion battery cannot exceed 100 watts if you are travelling by plane. Q: can you please tell me how many watts this battery is? TSA is also vague about even flying with one that is less than 100 watts and says one should check the airline's website. Q: what do you do when there are restrictions like this? When flying to France, I was able to take my Vanquish 540, but that uses AA batteries and I would really prefer to use the EQ800. I would really appreciate any suggestions about flying with metal detectors and how you deal with the security issues. Thanks a lot, Jane

Wife has me changing all the batteries in our smoke alarms...they are hard wired but also have the 10 year 9 volt batteries installed...they are 6 years old and was going to throw them away but then decided to try one in the pinpointer...seems to work fine...anyone try these before ? I realize they are basically back up batteries in the smoke alarm but I’m wondering it they would last longer then the regular Duracell 9 volts that I’ve been buying... strick

Hello All, I am new to your forum and could use your help. I have a Teknetics Mark 1, which I purchased back in the 80's, and I just pulled it out of storage looking to get back into the swing of treasure hunting. My battery clips are in kinda rough shape and I have seen a post on your forum about doing a mod to change the 8 aa's to a 9v and 2 aa's , and then on the 6 aa's side, they had stated that they put 2 9v batteries on that side. Would 1 9v work on that side or does it require 2? Any help that you could give me would be greatly appreciated. Also, any other mods that you can think of, would you share those as well. Thank you guys, I hope to hear from you soon. Take Care. Arlin

Flat pack Lipo LP-904085, 3.7v, 3700mAh 85mm including wrapper x 38mm x 10mm Seen some on ebay but they are in the UK. Amazon doesn't have them and trying to avoid the slow boat from China via Aliexpress.

Just wondering If anyone has used a External Power Bank. 1. What kind did you buy and what size mAh? 2. If so how did you attach it to the detector and where? 3. How did it work if you just used it for charging both the head set and the detector?

Does anyone happen to know which Iklite fitting was modified to make the charger to battery adapter? Or was it proprietary specifically for the excal? I am missing the adapter and it looks like they want about 75 bucks for the stupid little thing on The Bay. I have all the little bits to make one except the threaded adapter to install the pins and jack into. Right now I have it shoddily rigged up to charge but am hoping to make a round two that looks cleaner and is more secure. My backup plan is to try to design one and 3d print it but that always turns into a big project to get everything printing cleanly and consistantly. It generally devolves into a lot of cursing. Thanks Coggles

does the external aa battery pack charge the gold kruzer

I would think the Detecting Doodads Coil Charging Clip would work… any reason why not?