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Hello everyone, this is Mickey Mouse I'm new, but hope to find information on a White Spectrum XLT. Is anyone worked on main board or display? I tried to replace all caps and now Cap # 31 on board 505- 0198-B exploder's every time I put one in. I'm using 12 Volt battery pack. Can anyone help me. have checked polarity and they are in the correct way. C31 is a 220uf, 16volt cap.

hello all, I found a not working eagle spectrum at a flea market in Tulsa OK. I have cleaned up the battery carrier but I don't get anything on display when I press the on button. Any common failures?

I lost my White's Goldmaster V/SAT in a fire and want a replacement. Insurance will cover a new one. What is a new replacement for my old one? Same or better features.

I just recently bought a nice Spectrum XLT that came with the 9.5 coil. I have been trying to search for what other coils are compatible but haven't came up with much of anything, other than some older posts on other forums saying some people favored an 8 inch coil over the 9.5. But they don't tell what the name of the coil is; just the size. Any help is appreciated.

Can anyone help with what it dose or how to use it. I like my old Eagle , it is heavy but like it to coin hunt. How do i use the Sig. Bal. ? after i am detecting or when i turn it on? Mine don't make much difference one way or the other. What dose it do. Thanks Dean

Just a heads up. My screen started to develop the dead pixel lines. Nothing that won't stop me from using it, but I figured I would check around to see if I could score an economical replacement screen. Centreville Electronics does have them in stock, but they're running about $140 + shipping... which is about $150 for a DIY screen replacement. I ended up opening the V3i and saw that it's running a Sharp LQ035Q7DB05 screen. Ebay had a few listings, but this one seemed to be the closest when inspecting the photo. The original Sharp's LCD has two ribbon cables, one large and one small. I traced out the smaller ribbon cable and only two of the leads are being used - same as the listing. I'm quite certain this LCD will work... and for around $30 + shipping. I ordered two and will report back if all goes well. https://www.ebay.com/itm/263099618885

I purchased this from an online app for $110 shipped. The meter's clear plastic cover got damaged so it needs to be replaced. Other than that the meter the detector works perfectly. The guy I got it from did purchased insurance on it... so we'll see where that goes over time. Does anyone have a good used cover or know who might have one? Worse case I could reseal it with some crystal clear hot glue. Also he included a 11" White's relic coil any info on that? Can it be used for deeper coins? Dirt/Beach? I used to own a 6000/Di in the 80's What's the benefits of the Pro unit? I do have a comfort-Tech shoulder strap sling I plan on using on this one. Batteries 4xC cells. Worth going with rechargeable or Lipo conversion? Detector stand? Diy or? So the meter doesn't get wacked! 🙂 Any other suggestions? Thanks!

Having used this machine for years, I am curious if anyone here has experience with any settings other then presets, The places I hunt in are older and I would suspect more silvers should come out of the ground. Yes its a older machine and I dont drive much due to age. I just cant justify the expense of getting a new machine. Thanks in Advance !!

I did not really need another one, but I had to save it. I received it yesterday. Seller stated that it had never been used. It is probably the cleanest specimen I had ever seen. The seller was an estate/second hand type business. The downside was the on/off pot was broken. He probably didn't test it. I stole the pot from my classic SL 1. Small solder job later I was in business. I gotta stop collecting old machines lol.

I currently have a Whites 6000/Di Series 3, but always wanted a 5900. I always heard that the blue box 5900 Pro Plus was the best/deepest of the 5900 series. It offered an on/off switch for the SAT by the coil connector and had the GEB Max mode... which I guess was hotter than the later black box 5900. The black box 5900 Pro SL does not have the GEB Max mode because it was replaced with GEB SAT mode. Anyway... the 6000/Di Series 3 also has the GEB MAX mode and Manual Ground Balance (Not the Double Stacked Version), but seems very similar to the blue box 5900 Pro Plus. I know most 6000 detectors have Auto-Trac instead of Manual Ground Balance, but the Series 3 is different. However, it does not have the on/off switch for the SAT like the 5900 blue box. My 6000 Series 3 goes pretty darn deep and that is why I keep it in my stable for relics. I mainly hunt in GEB Norm (All-Metal) and use the GEB Max mode when the ground allows it. It has a silky smooth threshold, ID's in All-Metal mode, filters out awesome on big iron, and I really like the non-motion coil feature that most of my other detectors do not offer. GEB Disc mode is the only mode where you are required to put the coil in motion in order to ID a target, and this detector is super easy to pinpoint with large coils. So is the 6000/Di Series 3 basically the same as the blue box 5900 Pro Plus in performance? I'm still a fan of the older technology, especially with Whites. I've had a Whites MX All Sport and a Nokta Simplex Plus and had zero regrets letting those detectors go. I do need a better gold hunter for micro jewelry and I'm leaning towards a Makro Gold Kruzer because of the waterproof option, but feel an old Gold Bug 2 might be a better. Anyway gentlemen... I would like any advice and comparisons on the Whites 6000/Di Series 3, Blue Box 5900 Pro Plus, 5900/Di Pro SL, and 6000 XL Pro. Is my current 6000 worth keeping? Thanks in advance! This is what I currently have in my stable. Garret AT Pro (Wife's Detector of Choice and Nice on a Rainy Day) Garret Ace 250 (Extra Detector for my Kids or an Inexperienced Hunting Buddy) Fisher CZ6a (Modified by Nasa Tom for Older Sites/Deeper Coins and Does Well on the Beach) Modified Whites Classic 3 SL (Used in Super Trashy Areas and used with the Snooper or Blue Max 600 Coil) Modified Whites IDX Pro (Modified by Sven, which I believe is my Best All-Around Detector while using the Burgundy Royal 800 Coil) Old Blue Box 6000/Di Series 3 (Been using for Deep Relics with a somewhat rare Blue Max 11" 256 Coil)

Hello guys, so I've had my eagle spectrum now for a few months, but I only use the preset modes coin & jewellery also custom 1 present etc which I haven't changed any settings to, but today I went on my first farm field and using the presets I could not find a single thing only rubbish signals to which I thought some settings needs to be changed, but I am confused on what to change or do so please help me out on what's the best settings to use to be able to have a better find at things, I have started this hobby for 4-5 months and i really enjoy but I haven't found much due to only using parks and grass areas which doesn't do much depth. When with the group today they had simplex + and was finding things everywhere. I'm really stuck as I'm unsure if to sell the spectrum and upgrade to another device. thanks in advance and help,advice and tips would be much appreciated

el modelo 66 TR, SERIAL NUMBER 1917,DATE G3,, TENGO UNO PERO SE ME PERDIERON LOS DOS JUEGOS DE BOBINAS TAMBIEN LA CONEXION DE LOS NUEVE VOLTIOS Y 12 VOLTIOS SE DESCONECTADO DESDE HACE COMO 40 AñOS,DESDE LA ULTIMA VEZ QUE LO USO MI PAPA,, ERA DE EL ,NO SE EN UNA DE ESASA QUE A UNO LE DA POR COMPRAR LO COMPRó,, CREO EN CHULA VISTA,, TAMBIEN YO LE QUEME UNAS RESISTENCIAS ,, SI ALGUIEN DE ESTE FORO DE WHITE ELECTRONICS ,, AL CUAL VA DIRIJIDA MI PETICION, PARA PODER ARREGLARLO, VIVO EN TIJUANA, Y NO ME DEDICO A LA EXTRACCION DE ORO NI DE NINGUN METAL,, SIMPLEMENTE PORQUE PUEDO Y SE PUEDE CONTACTAR CON USTEDES REQUIERO DE SU INFORMACION ,,PARA PODER ARREGLARLO,GRACIAS ,, Y ESPERO PODER HACERLO!!.. MI EDAD EN ESTOS MOMENTOS 64 AñOS(espero no sea impedimento la edad para que me ayuden ok?),SOY MEXICANO DE LA BAJA SUR ,LA PAZ BCS les mando fotos para que vean COMO ESTA OK?..UNA MIA Y COMO VERAN LA DE EL DETECTOR UNA RE

Would be nice to know as I have to change the LCD on my DFX. Thanks in advance for your help.

I'm a die hard White's Electronics Customer and user and I never in my wildest dreams thought I'd see the day White's closed it's doors and sold out to rival Garrets. That is like selling the USA to Russia to me. I feel let down by White's after years of sticking by them. Garrets says they will service White's products but as for Whit's technology, I believe it will disappear under Garrets. Garrets may have the White's Intellectual property and right s to White's patents but it will in my opinion matter little as A Garrets Detector is not a White's and never will be.

Hi everyone, A few years back, I came across an older Metal Detector at a garage sale and it came with a “Bigfoot Coil” , I thought I’d be using it more often than I was and decided to see how much they cost. After a Google/eBay search, I listed it on eBay for a price that I felt was fair that they were selling for. I ended up finding someone interested in it on eBay and sent it out to them for cheaper than I even had it listed for, as well as paying for the shipping. About a week after he received it, he sends me this message; "I finally have a chance to check out the Bigfoot coil you sent and thought after hooking up to 1 of my 3 DFX detectors that this is not the correct coil as you have listed for DFX. I went in the basement and found my DFX Bigfoot coil I have not used in several years and testing them against one another. You coil has to be for different frequency Whites detectors as it’s different looking upon top of coil and testing with my wedding ring I get a pretty consistent 20-22 VDI which is normal number even with 9 1/2” coil and with Bigfoot coil it shows a VDI number of close to 85 consistent so I would like to receive a return label as this coil you sent is not correctly working for a DFX.” Just wondering if I can get some input from someone that actually knows what he’s talking about 😅 from what I originally saw, it looked like the BigFoot Coil only came in one model? But could there be different types? I’d really hate to pay shipping again and go through all the hassle of returning it and trying to resell it again. Any help or input is appreciated! Attached are pictures of my Bigfoot coil , and the last picture is a pic he sent in comparison to his other one. Thank you in advance!

Hello. I am in search of a couple of XLT LCD displays to replace the ones in my 10 yr old detectors. The appear to work fine but the displays are crap. The backlight appears strong, so it must be one or both of the segment drivers. Currently looking for a good replacement. You can PM me, if you want.

Welcome everyone! New to this hobby. I just recently aquired my grandfathers old detector that he bought new back in 2003(ish?). It's a Whites 5900/Di Pro model. He got sick around the time he bought it, and never used it. Its been in its case ever since. Just pulled it out today and other than the battery box, it looks like it's brand new. Im trying to get any info from people that actually used this model might have. As mentioned, the only issue that I can see is the battery box. The batteries that were in there were there since he purchased it and they were (to say the least) verrrrrrrry nasty. Appreciate any help!

...from a new forum member. Please see:

Well, I'm on my number 3 Whites TRX now, the first one was a dud and seemed to really lack sensitivity so I bought a second one from Centerville Electronics in the USA, cost me a fortune to get here but it worked a lot better although it had a habit of going off in the air just holding it and seemed very unstable so I had to run it in sensitivity 2 to keep it stable but then the performance was worse than most other pinpointers I owned. I've just always wondered if number 2 was faulty as well as if a stable TRX was ever made that could be run in sensitivity setting 4 it'd be a killer gold prospecting pinpointer as in sensitivity setting 4 it is easily the most sensitive pinpointer I've tried and I've tried a lot of them. So when one popped up for sale in NZ I couldn't believe my luck, these things are rare as hens teeth in NZ and I thought it was quite possible I was the only owner of one in NZ, the guy who owned it bought it in the US and rarely used it so it was a killer buy, to add to that was the price he wanted for it. Yes, $80 New Zealand dollars! That's right $49 USD! I'd seen these things selling for around $400 USD not long ago as they've become quite the collectors item. It arrived this morning and I've had a tinker with it already of course, it's performance is the exact same as the one I bought from Centerville Electronics in the US, so at least it puts it to rest for me if my second one was a lemon or not, the 3rd one runs the same as the 2nd one with the same problem of it going off if swung around in the air, especially in higher sensitivities and also the same falsing on the ground randomly but overall, still the most sensitive pinpointer I've ever used. So, I'm happy, got a deal on another one for a spare and even with it's falsing issues it's still a very good pinpointer and a shame it's no longer made, it is the only pinpointer I own that will hit on a number 9 lead pellet. My first one that I'm confident is faulty I gave to my daughter and shes lost it, probably buried in a box of lego somewhere but I'm going to try find it as I may as well get it back and use it for a spare cover for my other two. At the time I didn't realise you can remove the guts of them easily and replace the cover.

Hey guys, I have a pretty good idea what the answer to this question is going to be already but what the heck. Have an eagle spectrum i've used for years and love this old machine, however, the LCD screen is beginning to fail and i'd love to find a replacement to keep this old girl running. Does anyone know of a new old stock or used display screen that might be available for this old eagle? I know whites is long gone and their repair centers have long since depleted their supply of screens for this machine but am just grasping at straws here in the tiny hope that someone may know of this part laying around somewhere. E-bay is a dead end as well. Sadly, without a new replacement screen this old eagle is destined for the scrap heap. And that is a real shame to lose this old friend

So, Obviously I have a Whites 5900 Di Pro SL black box metal detector How do I tell which one have? Circuit board or not? Do I need to open her up or is there some visible difference between the two? Thank you in advance. Old Penny

The "battery check"reading on my M6 reads 13 with the alkaline battery pack and with the nicad pack it reads 10. ((Are this readings ok?)) I had some issues with my nicad charger kind of falling apart - so I put it back together with some superglue (the outside "housing" top pulled apart. The red light indicator does not come on now. I was charging the nicad pack prior to the "falling apart". I read the manual, page 5, but I am seeming to have brain fog with understanding it. Thanks for any help. 🙂

I talked to a lady that said she had some old detectors in her barn., she thought one was a Whites...so I asked which one. She sent me this so far, so I thought somebody here must know what it was. And if it was worth getting. Anybody? Edit , think I found one on ebay , Coinmaster 6000?

I have two Whites TRX's, one seemed to not be as sensitive as it should even on sensitivity 4 it wasn't sensitive so I bought another before they disappeared from the face of the planet. This new one will pick up a number 9 lead pellet, when it feels like it that is, so it's got the sensitivity I wanted, sometimes. Turn it off and on and it might find the pellet, it's random. It's very prone to falsing in sensitivity 4 (highest) so it's pretty unusable when it is in the highest sensitivity mode which is the one that hits the #9 pellet so really that modes useful for virtually nothing other than testing, it drives you mad trying to use the highest sensitivity mode in the field with all the falsing. I always turn it on with it touching the soil and press the button to retune every time it starts going crazy and that calms it down but in doing so the sensitivity seems to drop also. In sensitivity 3 and 4 just moving it around in the air can set it off easily, lower sensitivities it happens too, but again less than in higher sensitivities. Is it possible that's EMI? I've never had a pointer affected by EMI before that I've noticed. One weird quirk is the TRX gets stuck, I can find a target, it goes nuts on it as desired but it doesn't stop, you pull it away from the target and its still going crazy, even in the air. This happens on all sensitivity settings, but more so on 3 or 4. This is by far the most annoying thing with it as it happens a lot. Recovering any target with it is a chore. I stumbled across an old thread with others with the problem but they never got to a resolution, the main guy with the problem got a replacement but it did the same thing so he was forced to get a refund. See the link below. https://metaldetectingforum.com/showthread.php?t=210737 So, what are my options, use it in sensitivity 1 so it happens less and have its performance neutered whereby I'd be better off using a fake Chinese Carrot as it'd give me better performance, just use my real Carrot AT and give up on the TRX or is there something I don't know that will fix it? I've tried factory resets and everything else I can think of. I've tried various batteries, currently settled on a 9.4v Maha battery so it can't be too low power, surely? I've tried AA's and not just rechargable, various Alkalines too. Do any specific batteries work better than others, is it better off with a 9v than AA's when it comes to stability? I bought it for it's small gold sensitivity and it has that, if it would work properly. From what I'm seeing on my research what I'm experiencing is pretty normal and not a fault, would this be correct? If so I can't see why anyone would say it was a good pointer. I assume in this instruction sheet when it says you can change frequency that's just the audio frequency of the sound and not the operating frequency. I've tried moving the frequency a bit and it does nothing other than change the sound so to me that's just the audio frequency. Also, it's not my detector causing any interference, I experience the same when not even using a detector. I've basically given up with this being my second attempt to have a reliable TRX but if anyone has any advice I'd appreciate it. I'll take some video in the next day or so, I haven't bothered to do that so far but I've 100% confidence it will get stuck for me within under 5 minutes so I'll get a video easily.

Does anyone have the Sierra Madre Program for the XLT? Thanks! Walt