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Hey guys, I have a pretty good idea what the answer to this question is going to be already but what the heck. Have an eagle spectrum i've used for years and love this old machine, however, the LCD screen is beginning to fail and i'd love to find a replacement to keep this old girl running. Does anyone know of a new old stock or used display screen that might be available for this old eagle? I know whites is long gone and their repair centers have long since depleted their supply of screens for this machine but am just grasping at straws here in the tiny hope that someone may know of this part laying around somewhere. E-bay is a dead end as well. Sadly, without a new replacement screen this old eagle is destined for the scrap heap. And that is a real shame to lose this old friend

So, Obviously I have a Whites 5900 Di Pro SL black box metal detector How do I tell which one have? Circuit board or not? Do I need to open her up or is there some visible difference between the two? Thank you in advance. Old Penny

The "battery check"reading on my M6 reads 13 with the alkaline battery pack and with the nicad pack it reads 10. ((Are this readings ok?)) I had some issues with my nicad charger kind of falling apart - so I put it back together with some superglue (the outside "housing" top pulled apart. The red light indicator does not come on now. I was charging the nicad pack prior to the "falling apart". I read the manual, page 5, but I am seeming to have brain fog with understanding it. Thanks for any help. 🙂

I talked to a lady that said she had some old detectors in her barn., she thought one was a Whites...so I asked which one. She sent me this so far, so I thought somebody here must know what it was. And if it was worth getting. Anybody? Edit , think I found one on ebay , Coinmaster 6000?

I currently have a Whites 6000/Di Series 3, but always wanted a 5900. I always heard that the blue box 5900 Pro Plus was the best/deepest of the 5900 series. It offered an on/off switch for the SAT by the coil connector and had the GEB Max mode... which I guess was hotter than the later black box 5900. The black box 5900 Pro SL does not have the GEB Max mode because it was replaced with GEB SAT mode. Anyway... the 6000/Di Series 3 also has the GEB MAX mode and Manual Ground Balance (Not the Double Stacked Version), but seems very similar to the blue box 5900 Pro Plus. I know most 6000 detectors have Auto-Trac instead of Manual Ground Balance, but the Series 3 is different. However, it does not have the on/off switch for the SAT like the 5900 blue box. My 6000 Series 3 goes pretty darn deep and that is why I keep it in my stable for relics. I mainly hunt in GEB Norm (All-Metal) and use the GEB Max mode when the ground allows it. It has a silky smooth threshold, ID's in All-Metal mode, filters out awesome on big iron, and I really like the non-motion coil feature that most of my other detectors do not offer. GEB Disc mode is the only mode where you are required to put the coil in motion in order to ID a target, and this detector is super easy to pinpoint with large coils. So is the 6000/Di Series 3 basically the same as the blue box 5900 Pro Plus in performance? I'm still a fan of the older technology, especially with Whites. I've had a Whites MX All Sport and a Nokta Simplex Plus and had zero regrets letting those detectors go. I do need a better gold hunter for micro jewelry and I'm leaning towards a Makro Gold Kruzer because of the waterproof option, but feel an old Gold Bug 2 might be a better. Anyway gentlemen... I would like any advice and comparisons on the Whites 6000/Di Series 3, Blue Box 5900 Pro Plus, 5900/Di Pro SL, and 6000 XL Pro. Is my current 6000 worth keeping? Thanks in advance! This is what I currently have in my stable. Garret AT Pro (Wife's Detector of Choice and Nice on a Rainy Day) Garret Ace 250 (Extra Detector for my Kids or an Inexperienced Hunting Buddy) Fisher CZ6a (Modified by Nasa Tom for Older Sites/Deeper Coins and Does Well on the Beach) Modified Whites Classic 3 SL (Used in Super Trashy Areas and used with the Snooper or Blue Max 600 Coil) Modified Whites IDX Pro (Modified by Sven, which I believe is my Best All-Around Detector while using the Burgundy Royal 800 Coil) Old Blue Box 6000/Di Series 3 (Been using for Deep Relics with a somewhat rare Blue Max 11" 256 Coil)

I have two Whites TRX's, one seemed to not be as sensitive as it should even on sensitivity 4 it wasn't sensitive so I bought another before they disappeared from the face of the planet. This new one will pick up a number 9 lead pellet, when it feels like it that is, so it's got the sensitivity I wanted, sometimes. Turn it off and on and it might find the pellet, it's random. It's very prone to falsing in sensitivity 4 (highest) so it's pretty unusable when it is in the highest sensitivity mode which is the one that hits the #9 pellet so really that modes useful for virtually nothing other than testing, it drives you mad trying to use the highest sensitivity mode in the field with all the falsing. I always turn it on with it touching the soil and press the button to retune every time it starts going crazy and that calms it down but in doing so the sensitivity seems to drop also. In sensitivity 3 and 4 just moving it around in the air can set it off easily, lower sensitivities it happens too, but again less than in higher sensitivities. Is it possible that's EMI? I've never had a pointer affected by EMI before that I've noticed. One weird quirk is the TRX gets stuck, I can find a target, it goes nuts on it as desired but it doesn't stop, you pull it away from the target and its still going crazy, even in the air. This happens on all sensitivity settings, but more so on 3 or 4. This is by far the most annoying thing with it as it happens a lot. Recovering any target with it is a chore. I stumbled across an old thread with others with the problem but they never got to a resolution, the main guy with the problem got a replacement but it did the same thing so he was forced to get a refund. See the link below. https://metaldetectingforum.com/showthread.php?t=210737 So, what are my options, use it in sensitivity 1 so it happens less and have its performance neutered whereby I'd be better off using a fake Chinese Carrot as it'd give me better performance, just use my real Carrot AT and give up on the TRX or is there something I don't know that will fix it? I've tried factory resets and everything else I can think of. I've tried various batteries, currently settled on a 9.4v Maha battery so it can't be too low power, surely? I've tried AA's and not just rechargable, various Alkalines too. Do any specific batteries work better than others, is it better off with a 9v than AA's when it comes to stability? I bought it for it's small gold sensitivity and it has that, if it would work properly. From what I'm seeing on my research what I'm experiencing is pretty normal and not a fault, would this be correct? If so I can't see why anyone would say it was a good pointer. I assume in this instruction sheet when it says you can change frequency that's just the audio frequency of the sound and not the operating frequency. I've tried moving the frequency a bit and it does nothing other than change the sound so to me that's just the audio frequency. Also, it's not my detector causing any interference, I experience the same when not even using a detector. I've basically given up with this being my second attempt to have a reliable TRX but if anyone has any advice I'd appreciate it. I'll take some video in the next day or so, I haven't bothered to do that so far but I've 100% confidence it will get stuck for me within under 5 minutes so I'll get a video easily.

Does anyone have the Sierra Madre Program for the XLT? Thanks! Walt

Look what I found in the garage. My old boss died of cancer as are result of Asbestos exposes in power stations and left me his Eagle years ago. What a break through this was. He was able to pull out some great targets in our coin patches that was full of junk. However the gold fields that we dug every signal he had no success. This was the first detector that could beat most operator with technological. Worth a look (...Link....) Lets hope Garrets use the tech. and improve it. ).

The Chinese have gone nuts flooding the auction sites with fake Whites detectors since Whites closure for very cheap prices and instead of blanking out the brand name they're taking on the Whites names even in their marketing and on the detectors. They used to edit the photos of them hiding the branding I guess to keep the brand names from complaining and are doing that far less now Whites is out of business. They've even been so bold as to use one of Gerry's videos for their marketing and branding the video with their GPoint brand logo at the start of the video acting like Gerry is endorsing their detectors. I doubt there is anything you can do Gerry but if you want the direct link to the detector being sold with your video on it as advertising I will give you it, I won't post it here as I don't want people being foolish buying one of these detectors thinking they're getting the real deal for a cheap price as they're not the real deal, and they will likely not work near as well either. It's sad to see this happening but I guess it was inevitable with Whites going out of business they'd get more bold with their fake detectors.

I have a White's Spectrum XLT. Several years ago a rogue wave washed over it at the beach and then it quit. The LED screen is still good but I get no action out of box, so, is there a place that I can purchase a mother board for it? Thanks Thomas

What batteries are compatible to White's spertum dfx e-series 800-0284 ?

Would be nice to know as I have to change the LCD on my DFX. Thanks in advance for your help.

https://www.centrevilleelectronics.net/parts.htm

When I got this detector in 92 from Kellyco it was the top line of White’s . My cost was 725.00 and for the time that was a lot to pay for a detector. Well this morning I got it out and put batteries in it and it came alive just like it did back in 92 . I ran soon test to see if everything is still working and at the same time I’m thinking why I put this aside. I’ve said this in the past those who had the Eagle and wanted to up grade to the Eagle ll White’s would. I’m not sure of the cost but it was around a 125.00 . I believe this was the only time White’s offered doing that. I have the stock coil that came with it but right away ordered the small coil that has great depth for the size. I don’t know if kellyco person that’s on here remember that Kellyco came out with a coil for the Eagle ll . I got the coil and I didn’t find it was any better that the stock 9 inch coil. Here’s some pictures that will take you back in time to another great day in detectors. Chuck

Hello. I just did a forum search but this ended up with a useless result. My question for the long time White's users is, is there more than one software version for the XLT Spectrum E-Series detector? Just read somewhere in the net there was a 1.0 and a 1.1 version. Is this correct?

New to the forum. 5900 Di SL Pro black: What I know: Operates at roughly 6.5 kHz; Has reliable/powerful "manual" Ground Balancing; Is easy to adjust and trust (If you take the time to learn the ins and outs); Likes to swing and loves to send its signal deep; Can discriminate and eliminate with the best of detectors. What I do not know: Date of manufacture and how many years they made the 5900 Di SL Pro (Black), What the Di means, What the SL means. So, my questions are for those that know are, 1) what is the date of manufacture and how many years they made the 5900 Di SL Pro (Black)?; 2) What does the Di in the name mean? 3) What is the SL technology that set it apart from the original 6000 DB Coin master from the 70's? Thank you in advance, Old Penny" PS. After some research, I believe the "D" deals with the ability to discriminate. That opens the question about DB and still leaves the Di question somewhat unanswered. I've ventured thoughts and opinions on what the "SL" might signify, but would love to hear from the more knowledgeable members. Again, thank you in advance, Old Penny

Of all the different types of metal detectors, the two box is the oldest(?) but also one of the least used. Defintitely a detector for special situations, but with a couple possible exceptions, for the proper situation it's the best choice for the job. I'm aware of two standalone models still available new -- Fisher Gemini-3 and White's TM808. Garrett's Treasure Hound (see P. 43 of their latest catalog) and apparently a new kid on the block are attachments for specific standard (control unit + shaft + single coil housing) detectors. In particular what has me wondering (and confused) is the fact that the Gemini-3, operating at 81.92 kHz doesn't appear to have a gound balancing adjustment but the TM808 (6.5 kHz) does. I was under the (naive?) impression that low frequencies are less susceptible to ground mineralization but here it seems in practice, it's just the opposite. Any thoughts/explanations?

My first metal detector in 1972 was a White's Coinmaster 4. I became a White's dealer in 1976. Over the years I owned the following: White's Beachhunter ID, White's Coinmaster IV, White's Coinmaster V Supreme, White's DFX, White's Goldmaster, White's Goldmaster II, White's Goldmaster V/SAT, White's Goldmaster 3, White's Goldmaster 4/B, White's Goldmaster 24K, White's GMT, White's M6, White's MXT, White's MX Sport, White's Surfmaster II, White's Surf PI, White's Surf PI Pro, White's Surf PI Dual Field, White's Sierra Pulse Pro, White's TDI, White's TDI SL, White's Vision, White's V3i And as a dealer I "borrowed" and played with countless more models. Right as of this moment I still have a DFX, V3i, and Goldmaster 24K I got in the fall of 2018. It's just now sinking in that after 48 years of using White's metal detectors, I have probably officially purchased my last new White's. I guess it is not impossible yet somebody could purchase the company and somehow take things on to new and improved models. Unfortunately, I just do not see that as being very likely. The name may continue, but White's as an industry leader is probably nothing more now than a memory. It's hard to believe that a company that produced something as sophisticated as the V3i in 2009 is now done.... I was still harboring a hope that somehow a V4 would see the light of day. In fact I figured they either pull a rabbit out of their hat, or it was over. Unfortunately it proved to be the latter. I do know one thing. My V3i is in pristine condition, and I am going to treat it with kid gloves now. If there was ever a detector that might become a collectors item, the V3i is it. I do not think we will see anything remotely like it ever again. The Goldmaster 24k is a very good detector, and thanks to Tom Boykin I got to use it early on and write my last big review of a White's detector. I always felt a little bad about the MX Sport debacle, so it was nice to end things on an upbeat note. A picture of my last detector from White's Electronics, quite a difference from my first "big box" Goldmaster in 1973.

Not sure if I should classify this machine as an antique, perhaps classic analogue fits best. It seems to have some following in the USA, but in Australia it is a rare beast. My first Whites was a blue box 6000 series that swallowed a lot of batteries and was more than heavy. For better or worse I ran in on GEB MAX most of the time. It punched deep and performed well. Built to last, the 6000 series still show up here and there. The MInelab Pi revolution was well on its way when the XL Pro appeared and so it never gained many followers downunder. Years after getting an MXT I noticed the XL Pro online and researched it. After a few years I managed to buy one and found it an excellent all rounder to compliment the MXT. It's reputation seemed well founded and in my experience it performs very well. Not my first choice on the goldfields, but it can be made to work and the older blue box machines found a lot of gold in the early years. Excellent balance like all White's machines, good depth and stable performance make it a winner. I enjoy swinging this old classic and will continue to do so for many years to come. Love that meter, fantastic audio and good looks... Karelian

As mentioned in one of my earlier posts and as much as I love my TDIBH........the coil at 12” diameter is just too big in my generally rough ocean conditions....the swell and waves knock it around too much and with zero visibility due to stirred up sand and white water.......anyhow I have managed to secure myself an unused (outdoors) Whites’s Surf Pi Pro that a very nice person called Eric Foster currently owns. It’s had a few changes too by Eric. The unit will be outfitted with a recently hand made coil by Eric......a 10” centre mount / 3 spoke coil (Full epoxy fill so no buoyancy problems) with an inline waterproof connector to be able to swap out coils if needed. The coil is in the style of the old Aquastar detector. Centre mount coils are awesome and are very physically stable. I think the AQ will have such a coil. Eric has tweaked the internals of the detector for better gold response.....I think similar to the mods done by Mr. Bill on the Surf Pi Pro. It will be powered by a 10 cell NiMH battery pack or a 3 cell Lithium pack. I’m not going crazy with extra voltage such as the TDIBH so the standard 12v nominal will be more than adequate. I plan to keep the headphones stock.....I’ve always liked White’s 🎧 Pictures will be added as soon as possible. I was thinking if the Surf Pi Pro is good enough for Steve in Hawaiian conditions then its good enough for me 👍 Tony

I saw a White's High Sierra metal detector the other day for sale. I've never hear of that one. Looks like a very deep searching detector with no discrimination.