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I currently have a Whites 6000/Di Series 3, but always wanted a 5900. I always heard that the blue box 5900 Pro Plus was the best/deepest of the 5900 series. It offered an on/off switch for the SAT by the coil connector and had the GEB Max mode... which I guess was hotter than the later black box 5900. The black box 5900 Pro SL does not have the GEB Max mode because it was replaced with GEB SAT mode. Anyway... the 6000/Di Series 3 also has the GEB MAX mode and Manual Ground Balance (Not the Double Stacked Version), but seems very similar to the blue box 5900 Pro Plus. I know most 6000 detectors have Auto-Trac instead of Manual Ground Balance, but the Series 3 is different. However, it does not have the on/off switch for the SAT like the 5900 blue box. My 6000 Series 3 goes pretty darn deep and that is why I keep it in my stable for relics. I mainly hunt in GEB Norm (All-Metal) and use the GEB Max mode when the ground allows it. It has a silky smooth threshold, ID's in All-Metal mode, filters out awesome on big iron, and I really like the non-motion coil feature that most of my other detectors do not offer. GEB Disc mode is the only mode where you are required to put the coil in motion in order to ID a target, and this detector is super easy to pinpoint with large coils. So is the 6000/Di Series 3 basically the same as the blue box 5900 Pro Plus in performance? I'm still a fan of the older technology, especially with Whites. I've had a Whites MX All Sport and a Nokta Simplex Plus and had zero regrets letting those detectors go. I do need a better gold hunter for micro jewelry and I'm leaning towards a Makro Gold Kruzer because of the waterproof option, but feel an old Gold Bug 2 might be a better. Anyway gentlemen... I would like any advice and comparisons on the Whites 6000/Di Series 3, Blue Box 5900 Pro Plus, 5900/Di Pro SL, and 6000 XL Pro. Is my current 6000 worth keeping? Thanks in advance! This is what I currently have in my stable. Garret AT Pro (Wife's Detector of Choice and Nice on a Rainy Day) Garret Ace 250 (Extra Detector for my Kids or an Inexperienced Hunting Buddy) Fisher CZ6a (Modified by Nasa Tom for Older Sites/Deeper Coins and Does Well on the Beach) Modified Whites Classic 3 SL (Used in Super Trashy Areas and used with the Snooper or Blue Max 600 Coil) Modified Whites IDX Pro (Modified by Sven, which I believe is my Best All-Around Detector while using the Burgundy Royal 800 Coil) Old Blue Box 6000/Di Series 3 (Been using for Deep Relics with a somewhat rare Blue Max 11" 256 Coil)

I'm a die hard White's Electronics Customer and user and I never in my wildest dreams thought I'd see the day White's closed it's doors and sold out to rival Garrets. That is like selling the USA to Russia to me. I feel let down by White's after years of sticking by them. Garrets says they will service White's products but as for Whit's technology, I believe it will disappear under Garrets. Garrets may have the White's Intellectual property and right s to White's patents but it will in my opinion matter little as A Garrets Detector is not a White's and never will be.

Hello guys, so I've had my eagle spectrum now for a few months, but I only use the preset modes coin & jewellery also custom 1 present etc which I haven't changed any settings to, but today I went on my first farm field and using the presets I could not find a single thing only rubbish signals to which I thought some settings needs to be changed, but I am confused on what to change or do so please help me out on what's the best settings to use to be able to have a better find at things, I have started this hobby for 4-5 months and i really enjoy but I haven't found much due to only using parks and grass areas which doesn't do much depth. When with the group today they had simplex + and was finding things everywhere. I'm really stuck as I'm unsure if to sell the spectrum and upgrade to another device. thanks in advance and help,advice and tips would be much appreciated

Hi everyone, A few years back, I came across an older Metal Detector at a garage sale and it came with a “Bigfoot Coil” , I thought I’d be using it more often than I was and decided to see how much they cost. After a Google/eBay search, I listed it on eBay for a price that I felt was fair that they were selling for. I ended up finding someone interested in it on eBay and sent it out to them for cheaper than I even had it listed for, as well as paying for the shipping. About a week after he received it, he sends me this message; "I finally have a chance to check out the Bigfoot coil you sent and thought after hooking up to 1 of my 3 DFX detectors that this is not the correct coil as you have listed for DFX. I went in the basement and found my DFX Bigfoot coil I have not used in several years and testing them against one another. You coil has to be for different frequency Whites detectors as it’s different looking upon top of coil and testing with my wedding ring I get a pretty consistent 20-22 VDI which is normal number even with 9 1/2” coil and with Bigfoot coil it shows a VDI number of close to 85 consistent so I would like to receive a return label as this coil you sent is not correctly working for a DFX.” Just wondering if I can get some input from someone that actually knows what he’s talking about 😅 from what I originally saw, it looked like the BigFoot Coil only came in one model? But could there be different types? I’d really hate to pay shipping again and go through all the hassle of returning it and trying to resell it again. Any help or input is appreciated! Attached are pictures of my Bigfoot coil , and the last picture is a pic he sent in comparison to his other one. Thank you in advance!

Hello. I am in search of a couple of XLT LCD displays to replace the ones in my 10 yr old detectors. The appear to work fine but the displays are crap. The backlight appears strong, so it must be one or both of the segment drivers. Currently looking for a good replacement. You can PM me, if you want.

Welcome everyone! New to this hobby. I just recently aquired my grandfathers old detector that he bought new back in 2003(ish?). It's a Whites 5900/Di Pro model. He got sick around the time he bought it, and never used it. Its been in its case ever since. Just pulled it out today and other than the battery box, it looks like it's brand new. Im trying to get any info from people that actually used this model might have. As mentioned, the only issue that I can see is the battery box. The batteries that were in there were there since he purchased it and they were (to say the least) verrrrrrrry nasty. Appreciate any help!

...from a new forum member. Please see:

Well, I'm on my number 3 Whites TRX now, the first one was a dud and seemed to really lack sensitivity so I bought a second one from Centerville Electronics in the USA, cost me a fortune to get here but it worked a lot better although it had a habit of going off in the air just holding it and seemed very unstable so I had to run it in sensitivity 2 to keep it stable but then the performance was worse than most other pinpointers I owned. I've just always wondered if number 2 was faulty as well as if a stable TRX was ever made that could be run in sensitivity setting 4 it'd be a killer gold prospecting pinpointer as in sensitivity setting 4 it is easily the most sensitive pinpointer I've tried and I've tried a lot of them. So when one popped up for sale in NZ I couldn't believe my luck, these things are rare as hens teeth in NZ and I thought it was quite possible I was the only owner of one in NZ, the guy who owned it bought it in the US and rarely used it so it was a killer buy, to add to that was the price he wanted for it. Yes, $80 New Zealand dollars! That's right $49 USD! I'd seen these things selling for around $400 USD not long ago as they've become quite the collectors item. It arrived this morning and I've had a tinker with it already of course, it's performance is the exact same as the one I bought from Centerville Electronics in the US, so at least it puts it to rest for me if my second one was a lemon or not, the 3rd one runs the same as the 2nd one with the same problem of it going off if swung around in the air, especially in higher sensitivities and also the same falsing on the ground randomly but overall, still the most sensitive pinpointer I've ever used. So, I'm happy, got a deal on another one for a spare and even with it's falsing issues it's still a very good pinpointer and a shame it's no longer made, it is the only pinpointer I own that will hit on a number 9 lead pellet. My first one that I'm confident is faulty I gave to my daughter and shes lost it, probably buried in a box of lego somewhere but I'm going to try find it as I may as well get it back and use it for a spare cover for my other two. At the time I didn't realise you can remove the guts of them easily and replace the cover.

Hey guys, I have a pretty good idea what the answer to this question is going to be already but what the heck. Have an eagle spectrum i've used for years and love this old machine, however, the LCD screen is beginning to fail and i'd love to find a replacement to keep this old girl running. Does anyone know of a new old stock or used display screen that might be available for this old eagle? I know whites is long gone and their repair centers have long since depleted their supply of screens for this machine but am just grasping at straws here in the tiny hope that someone may know of this part laying around somewhere. E-bay is a dead end as well. Sadly, without a new replacement screen this old eagle is destined for the scrap heap. And that is a real shame to lose this old friend

So, Obviously I have a Whites 5900 Di Pro SL black box metal detector How do I tell which one have? Circuit board or not? Do I need to open her up or is there some visible difference between the two? Thank you in advance. Old Penny

The "battery check"reading on my M6 reads 13 with the alkaline battery pack and with the nicad pack it reads 10. ((Are this readings ok?)) I had some issues with my nicad charger kind of falling apart - so I put it back together with some superglue (the outside "housing" top pulled apart. The red light indicator does not come on now. I was charging the nicad pack prior to the "falling apart". I read the manual, page 5, but I am seeming to have brain fog with understanding it. Thanks for any help. 🙂

I talked to a lady that said she had some old detectors in her barn., she thought one was a Whites...so I asked which one. She sent me this so far, so I thought somebody here must know what it was. And if it was worth getting. Anybody? Edit , think I found one on ebay , Coinmaster 6000?

I have two Whites TRX's, one seemed to not be as sensitive as it should even on sensitivity 4 it wasn't sensitive so I bought another before they disappeared from the face of the planet. This new one will pick up a number 9 lead pellet, when it feels like it that is, so it's got the sensitivity I wanted, sometimes. Turn it off and on and it might find the pellet, it's random. It's very prone to falsing in sensitivity 4 (highest) so it's pretty unusable when it is in the highest sensitivity mode which is the one that hits the #9 pellet so really that modes useful for virtually nothing other than testing, it drives you mad trying to use the highest sensitivity mode in the field with all the falsing. I always turn it on with it touching the soil and press the button to retune every time it starts going crazy and that calms it down but in doing so the sensitivity seems to drop also. In sensitivity 3 and 4 just moving it around in the air can set it off easily, lower sensitivities it happens too, but again less than in higher sensitivities. Is it possible that's EMI? I've never had a pointer affected by EMI before that I've noticed. One weird quirk is the TRX gets stuck, I can find a target, it goes nuts on it as desired but it doesn't stop, you pull it away from the target and its still going crazy, even in the air. This happens on all sensitivity settings, but more so on 3 or 4. This is by far the most annoying thing with it as it happens a lot. Recovering any target with it is a chore. I stumbled across an old thread with others with the problem but they never got to a resolution, the main guy with the problem got a replacement but it did the same thing so he was forced to get a refund. See the link below. https://metaldetectingforum.com/showthread.php?t=210737 So, what are my options, use it in sensitivity 1 so it happens less and have its performance neutered whereby I'd be better off using a fake Chinese Carrot as it'd give me better performance, just use my real Carrot AT and give up on the TRX or is there something I don't know that will fix it? I've tried factory resets and everything else I can think of. I've tried various batteries, currently settled on a 9.4v Maha battery so it can't be too low power, surely? I've tried AA's and not just rechargable, various Alkalines too. Do any specific batteries work better than others, is it better off with a 9v than AA's when it comes to stability? I bought it for it's small gold sensitivity and it has that, if it would work properly. From what I'm seeing on my research what I'm experiencing is pretty normal and not a fault, would this be correct? If so I can't see why anyone would say it was a good pointer. I assume in this instruction sheet when it says you can change frequency that's just the audio frequency of the sound and not the operating frequency. I've tried moving the frequency a bit and it does nothing other than change the sound so to me that's just the audio frequency. Also, it's not my detector causing any interference, I experience the same when not even using a detector. I've basically given up with this being my second attempt to have a reliable TRX but if anyone has any advice I'd appreciate it. I'll take some video in the next day or so, I haven't bothered to do that so far but I've 100% confidence it will get stuck for me within under 5 minutes so I'll get a video easily.

Does anyone have the Sierra Madre Program for the XLT? Thanks! Walt

Look what I found in the garage. My old boss died of cancer as are result of Asbestos exposes in power stations and left me his Eagle years ago. What a break through this was. He was able to pull out some great targets in our coin patches that was full of junk. However the gold fields that we dug every signal he had no success. This was the first detector that could beat most operator with technological. Worth a look (...Link....) Lets hope Garrets use the tech. and improve it. ).

The Chinese have gone nuts flooding the auction sites with fake Whites detectors since Whites closure for very cheap prices and instead of blanking out the brand name they're taking on the Whites names even in their marketing and on the detectors. They used to edit the photos of them hiding the branding I guess to keep the brand names from complaining and are doing that far less now Whites is out of business. They've even been so bold as to use one of Gerry's videos for their marketing and branding the video with their GPoint brand logo at the start of the video acting like Gerry is endorsing their detectors. I doubt there is anything you can do Gerry but if you want the direct link to the detector being sold with your video on it as advertising I will give you it, I won't post it here as I don't want people being foolish buying one of these detectors thinking they're getting the real deal for a cheap price as they're not the real deal, and they will likely not work near as well either. It's sad to see this happening but I guess it was inevitable with Whites going out of business they'd get more bold with their fake detectors.

I have a White's Spectrum XLT. Several years ago a rogue wave washed over it at the beach and then it quit. The LED screen is still good but I get no action out of box, so, is there a place that I can purchase a mother board for it? Thanks Thomas

What batteries are compatible to White's spertum dfx e-series 800-0284 ?

Would be nice to know as I have to change the LCD on my DFX. Thanks in advance for your help.

https://www.centrevilleelectronics.net/parts.htm

When I got this detector in 92 from Kellyco it was the top line of White’s . My cost was 725.00 and for the time that was a lot to pay for a detector. Well this morning I got it out and put batteries in it and it came alive just like it did back in 92 . I ran soon test to see if everything is still working and at the same time I’m thinking why I put this aside. I’ve said this in the past those who had the Eagle and wanted to up grade to the Eagle ll White’s would. I’m not sure of the cost but it was around a 125.00 . I believe this was the only time White’s offered doing that. I have the stock coil that came with it but right away ordered the small coil that has great depth for the size. I don’t know if kellyco person that’s on here remember that Kellyco came out with a coil for the Eagle ll . I got the coil and I didn’t find it was any better that the stock 9 inch coil. Here’s some pictures that will take you back in time to another great day in detectors. Chuck

Hello. I just did a forum search but this ended up with a useless result. My question for the long time White's users is, is there more than one software version for the XLT Spectrum E-Series detector? Just read somewhere in the net there was a 1.0 and a 1.1 version. Is this correct?

New to the forum. 5900 Di SL Pro black: What I know: Operates at roughly 6.5 kHz; Has reliable/powerful "manual" Ground Balancing; Is easy to adjust and trust (If you take the time to learn the ins and outs); Likes to swing and loves to send its signal deep; Can discriminate and eliminate with the best of detectors. What I do not know: Date of manufacture and how many years they made the 5900 Di SL Pro (Black), What the Di means, What the SL means. So, my questions are for those that know are, 1) what is the date of manufacture and how many years they made the 5900 Di SL Pro (Black)?; 2) What does the Di in the name mean? 3) What is the SL technology that set it apart from the original 6000 DB Coin master from the 70's? Thank you in advance, Old Penny" PS. After some research, I believe the "D" deals with the ability to discriminate. That opens the question about DB and still leaves the Di question somewhat unanswered. I've ventured thoughts and opinions on what the "SL" might signify, but would love to hear from the more knowledgeable members. Again, thank you in advance, Old Penny