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Did anyone here try this 2 detectors I know one is 4 filters with auto balance the other is 2 filter with added manual ground balance if you had to pick one what model will it be

I just recently bought a nice Spectrum XLT that came with the 9.5 coil. I have been trying to search for what other coils are compatible but haven't came up with much of anything, other than some older posts on other forums saying some people favored an 8 inch coil over the 9.5. But they don't tell what the name of the coil is; just the size. Any help is appreciated.

I currently have a Whites 6000/Di Series 3, but always wanted a 5900. I always heard that the blue box 5900 Pro Plus was the best/deepest of the 5900 series. It offered an on/off switch for the SAT by the coil connector and had the GEB Max mode... which I guess was hotter than the later black box 5900. The black box 5900 Pro SL does not have the GEB Max mode because it was replaced with GEB SAT mode. Anyway... the 6000/Di Series 3 also has the GEB MAX mode and Manual Ground Balance (Not the Double Stacked Version), but seems very similar to the blue box 5900 Pro Plus. I know most 6000 detectors have Auto-Trac instead of Manual Ground Balance, but the Series 3 is different. However, it does not have the on/off switch for the SAT like the 5900 blue box. My 6000 Series 3 goes pretty darn deep and that is why I keep it in my stable for relics. I mainly hunt in GEB Norm (All-Metal) and use the GEB Max mode when the ground allows it. It has a silky smooth threshold, ID's in All-Metal mode, filters out awesome on big iron, and I really like the non-motion coil feature that most of my other detectors do not offer. GEB Disc mode is the only mode where you are required to put the coil in motion in order to ID a target, and this detector is super easy to pinpoint with large coils. So is the 6000/Di Series 3 basically the same as the blue box 5900 Pro Plus in performance? I'm still a fan of the older technology, especially with Whites. I've had a Whites MX All Sport and a Nokta Simplex Plus and had zero regrets letting those detectors go. I do need a better gold hunter for micro jewelry and I'm leaning towards a Makro Gold Kruzer because of the waterproof option, but feel an old Gold Bug 2 might be a better. Anyway gentlemen... I would like any advice and comparisons on the Whites 6000/Di Series 3, Blue Box 5900 Pro Plus, 5900/Di Pro SL, and 6000 XL Pro. Is my current 6000 worth keeping? Thanks in advance! This is what I currently have in my stable. Garret AT Pro (Wife's Detector of Choice and Nice on a Rainy Day) Garret Ace 250 (Extra Detector for my Kids or an Inexperienced Hunting Buddy) Fisher CZ6a (Modified by Nasa Tom for Older Sites/Deeper Coins and Does Well on the Beach) Modified Whites Classic 3 SL (Used in Super Trashy Areas and used with the Snooper or Blue Max 600 Coil) Modified Whites IDX Pro (Modified by Sven, which I believe is my Best All-Around Detector while using the Burgundy Royal 800 Coil) Old Blue Box 6000/Di Series 3 (Been using for Deep Relics with a somewhat rare Blue Max 11" 256 Coil)

I see a lot of requests for Garrett to step up and do a remake of some of the detectors that they acquired from their purchase of White's Metal Detectors especially the V series. Some have speculated that the Vortex V series is just that, a reimagining of the Whites V series. Personally, I prefer the Whites V series color screen and some of the audio choices and I am a huge fan of mixed audio which sounds like an MXT. I like the light weight, internal rechargeable battery, 3 tiered ferrous/non ferrous display, easy to see screen, simple to adjust features and waterproofing on the Garrett Vortex VX9. I am not a fan of its audio. So, here is a video comparison between the VX3 and VX9 for low and high conductor US coin target ID accuracy in high iron mineralization dirt. Using a USA nickel and USA quarter for test targets. Up averaging of target IDs and audio responses plus loss of depth is a given in high iron mineralization and common low conductor coins and trash can respond like high conductor copper and silver coin and jewelry targets. This can make selective digging really difficult even on shallow 3" deep low and mid conductor targets. Due to the high magnetite content in the soil here, the Vortex VX9 ground balances at 96.75 on this dirt. The results you see in this 6 minute video are exactly what I see when hunting wild targets here. The VX3 has the advantage in overall coil size for sure. Notice that I have all of the iron filtering on minimum setting on the Garrett Vortex VX9. Which detector's simultaneous multi frequency technology works best for identifying targets in these soil conditions? There was lightening in the area and plenty of WiFi EMI interference. I tried to especially help the VX3 using frequency offsets. Nothing would help. I have a new screen ordered for my VX3. Thanks to Eureka Treasure Hunters Club, Denver Colorado for letting me borrow their Garrett Vortex VX9.

Hello. I am in search of a couple of XLT LCD displays to replace the ones in my 10 yr old detectors. The appear to work fine but the displays are crap. The backlight appears strong, so it must be one or both of the segment drivers. Currently looking for a good replacement. You can PM me, if you want.

My mxsport was run over.😪😪 before I really had a chance to use it fully. Cars tire struck between the battery holder and the lcd screen area.was in 3 pieces ,but still connected by its wires of course. I made a new bracket for the coil.(fixed) I bought a new battery holder and 8 new aa batteries .reconnected the shafts. Tried to turn it on ) nothing) I started to shake it and I heard a noise coming from inside the screen, at that moment I feared the screen was shattered and that would be it for me on experiencing metal detecting considering the price I paid. I opened up the waterproof screen and found that the noise was a silicone moisture packet freel moving about. I was relieved the screen was still intact I guess.checked the 2 wires coming in from the battire holder to screen no breaks in wires that I could tell,closed it up and tried to check the wires from outside screen running thru back to holder,nothing I could see was impacted or separated from either point. So tried again to power it up,nothing. Can anyone help me to make it work again.noone in hawaii on big island does repairs on this type electronics unfortunatelly.please respond thankyou and aloha

I picked this up the other day for a decent price and it works just fine. It's not the last word in pulse delay sensitivity but I plan to use it in fast salt water (just behind where the 2 footers break). I believe the pulse delay is in the high twenties and I'm okay with that. I have stripped it down and removed just about everything. I'm guessing it only has seen one or two outings and is pristine. The O-rings were still greasy from the silicone lube and all cables are like new (have been treated with 303 Protectant already). This particular unit was from the far south of my state here in Western Australia so it was never subjected to hot temperatures as the area is cool and cloudy just about all the time. The coil is near flawless and importantly the coil cable is shiny and very pliable....no signs of any age related problems. I will probably swap headphones depending on how my other spare waterproof headphones sound. The PCB is out and although it didn't need it, I cleaned the whole board down with a specialist PCB cleaning spray. The voltage converter (charge pump) chip has been removed from the board (that's the bare spot on the board at the lower left) and will be replaced with a higher rated one to 12v (thanks to Geotech on that advice). I will replace the 6 electrolytic capacitors with new ones as well. A new snap connector power lead will also be soldered on. I ran a magnifying glass over the whole board and nothing appears out of the ordinary as far as dis-coloured components is concerned. Unfortunately I don't have the skills to actually mod this detector (faster delay) but I'm not too worried about that considering how I will be using it. All cable gland and O-rings will be replaced as well but don't appear to need it. I will also Plast-Dip the lower half of the coil for added insurance. These 950 Zero-Buoyancy coils are well regarded and are almost impossible to find in this condition....they are nice and heavy and require no effort to keep down. If anyone else has any other ideas then feel free to comment.

Just a heads up. My screen started to develop the dead pixel lines. Nothing that won't stop me from using it, but I figured I would check around to see if I could score an economical replacement screen. Centreville Electronics does have them in stock, but they're running about $140 + shipping... which is about $150 for a DIY screen replacement. I ended up opening the V3i and saw that it's running a Sharp LQ035Q7DB05 screen. Ebay had a few listings, but this one seemed to be the closest when inspecting the photo. The original Sharp's LCD has two ribbon cables, one large and one small. I traced out the smaller ribbon cable and only two of the leads are being used - same as the listing. I'm quite certain this LCD will work... and for around $30 + shipping. I ordered two and will report back if all goes well. https://www.ebay.com/itm/263099618885

I have a very niceXLT detector, it has been in a hard case for about 3years. No batterys where left in it when i put it away. Took it out the other day and it all works fine, but the face don' t light up very well, i can't hardly see it. it is yellow looking. It still has the face plastic on it, could that got yellow, and if i take it off, can i get one for it? Do you think that could be what it is ? Thanks Dean

Hello everyone, this is Mickey Mouse I'm new, but hope to find information on a White Spectrum XLT. Is anyone worked on main board or display? I tried to replace all caps and now Cap # 31 on board 505- 0198-B exploder's every time I put one in. I'm using 12 Volt battery pack. Can anyone help me. have checked polarity and they are in the correct way. C31 is a 220uf, 16volt cap.

Hi everyone. I have a question on this coil. I recently bought a bundle deal with 2 White's V3i 's and 5 coils. This coil has a sticker with DFX, MXT & M6 on it. The Detech's website shows two distinct model numbers for compatibility (V3, V3i) and this other one, the DFX, MXT, M6. I have only a handful of hours on the machine so far. I have been using it and have found coins. I don't want to waste time on this one if the other model # is specifically made for my V3i. My burning question is should I stop using this coil, is it not fully compatible, what are the differences between the two? Should I sell? Thank you. Richard

Greetings, As I'd stated in my intro-post, I have this unit from my father's estate. I'm fully confident that I'll be able to get it up and running. It also has this coil (head?). I'm wondering, seeing as there is NO warranty for it, and I have to take it apart to chase power issues, is there any particular 'fix' and/or 'improvement' that can be made on this, to make it gooder? Also was wondering, considering the advancements in both technology and use, the coil makes me question whether a better one might be more applicable? The foldable/collapsible ones that were used in the ME for mine detection I'm sure were better than this 80's technology, no? As I'd also stated in my intro-post, I'm at the beginning here so I fully admit that I don't know what I should be asking or looking for.

Hi everyone, A few years back, I came across an older Metal Detector at a garage sale and it came with a “Bigfoot Coil” , I thought I’d be using it more often than I was and decided to see how much they cost. After a Google/eBay search, I listed it on eBay for a price that I felt was fair that they were selling for. I ended up finding someone interested in it on eBay and sent it out to them for cheaper than I even had it listed for, as well as paying for the shipping. About a week after he received it, he sends me this message; "I finally have a chance to check out the Bigfoot coil you sent and thought after hooking up to 1 of my 3 DFX detectors that this is not the correct coil as you have listed for DFX. I went in the basement and found my DFX Bigfoot coil I have not used in several years and testing them against one another. You coil has to be for different frequency Whites detectors as it’s different looking upon top of coil and testing with my wedding ring I get a pretty consistent 20-22 VDI which is normal number even with 9 1/2” coil and with Bigfoot coil it shows a VDI number of close to 85 consistent so I would like to receive a return label as this coil you sent is not correctly working for a DFX.” Just wondering if I can get some input from someone that actually knows what he’s talking about ? from what I originally saw, it looked like the BigFoot Coil only came in one model? But could there be different types? I’d really hate to pay shipping again and go through all the hassle of returning it and trying to resell it again. Any help or input is appreciated! Attached are pictures of my Bigfoot coil , and the last picture is a pic he sent in comparison to his other one. Thank you in advance!

I was looking at my old PI Pro that I use as a loaner and was surprised to find a crack in the control box cover that might compromise its waterproofness. Someone out there may have a non-working PI Pro (or Dual Field) that is only good for parts and willing to sell me the box cover for $30? The covers are the same for a number of White's PI detectors - just with different decals and the covers are easily removed (no tools required). The dimensions are approximately 4" x 6-3/8", Thanks!

hello all, I found a not working eagle spectrum at a flea market in Tulsa OK. I have cleaned up the battery carrier but I don't get anything on display when I press the on button. Any common failures?

I lost my White's Goldmaster V/SAT in a fire and want a replacement. Insurance will cover a new one. What is a new replacement for my old one? Same or better features.

Can anyone help with what it dose or how to use it. I like my old Eagle , it is heavy but like it to coin hunt. How do i use the Sig. Bal. ? after i am detecting or when i turn it on? Mine don't make much difference one way or the other. What dose it do. Thanks Dean

I purchased this from an online app for $110 shipped. The meter's clear plastic cover got damaged so it needs to be replaced. Other than that the meter the detector works perfectly. The guy I got it from did purchased insurance on it... so we'll see where that goes over time. Does anyone have a good used cover or know who might have one? Worse case I could reseal it with some crystal clear hot glue. Also he included a 11" White's relic coil any info on that? Can it be used for deeper coins? Dirt/Beach? I used to own a 6000/Di in the 80's What's the benefits of the Pro unit? I do have a comfort-Tech shoulder strap sling I plan on using on this one. Batteries 4xC cells. Worth going with rechargeable or Lipo conversion? Detector stand? Diy or? So the meter doesn't get wacked! ? Any other suggestions? Thanks!

Having used this machine for years, I am curious if anyone here has experience with any settings other then presets, The places I hunt in are older and I would suspect more silvers should come out of the ground. Yes its a older machine and I dont drive much due to age. I just cant justify the expense of getting a new machine. Thanks in Advance !!

I did not really need another one, but I had to save it. I received it yesterday. Seller stated that it had never been used. It is probably the cleanest specimen I had ever seen. The seller was an estate/second hand type business. The downside was the on/off pot was broken. He probably didn't test it. I stole the pot from my classic SL 1. Small solder job later I was in business. I gotta stop collecting old machines lol.

Hello guys, so I've had my eagle spectrum now for a few months, but I only use the preset modes coin & jewellery also custom 1 present etc which I haven't changed any settings to, but today I went on my first farm field and using the presets I could not find a single thing only rubbish signals to which I thought some settings needs to be changed, but I am confused on what to change or do so please help me out on what's the best settings to use to be able to have a better find at things, I have started this hobby for 4-5 months and i really enjoy but I haven't found much due to only using parks and grass areas which doesn't do much depth. When with the group today they had simplex + and was finding things everywhere. I'm really stuck as I'm unsure if to sell the spectrum and upgrade to another device. thanks in advance and help,advice and tips would be much appreciated

The model 66 TR, serial number 1917, date G3, I have one but I lost the two sets of coils also the connection of the nine volts and 12 volts was disconnected about 40 years ago, since the last time my dad used it, it was his, I Don’t know in one of those that one gives to buy he bought it, I believe in chula vista, I also burned some resistances, if someone from this white electronics forum, to which my request is directed, in order to fix it, I live in Tijuana, and I do not dedicate myself to the extraction of gold or any metal, simply because I can and can contact you I require your information, to fix it, thank you, and I hope to be able to do it!.. MI EDAD EN ESTOS MOMENTOS 64 AñOS(espero no sea impedimento la edad para que me ayuden ok?),SOY MEXICANO DE LA BAJA SUR ,LA PAZ BCS les mando fotos para que vean COMO ESTA OK?..UNA MIA Y COMO VERAN LA DE EL DETECTOR UNA RE

Would be nice to know as I have to change the LCD on my DFX. Thanks in advance for your help.