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I have been doing some research, whether im on the right track or not is part of the learning curve i spose! Are reefs/leads connected? Are they related to each other? I went off in another direction today. Riding the dirt bike to cover ground quickly and efficiently. No detector. Interesting to see ‘scratchings’ between reefs! Am i right or wrong?

Hello everyone. I'm new here and have been studying about this new hobby for a month or so. Yesterday i ordered/received my first ever detector the Equinox 800 and added the 6 in. coil. (i'm targeting Gold) I've lived in AZ all my life and currently live in Queen Creek. I'm looking to make my first hunt near Hayden, AZ, 75 miles SE of my home location. I also joined a prospecting club, The Roadrunner's Prospector's Club. My first hunt site will be on a RRPC claim. RRPC has 31 claims in this area. Below is a aerial view of what their claim areas look like. I'm hoping to head out there in a few weeks, It's going to be HOT!

I got this manual at a swap meet in Quartzsite, Arizona. It's a manual written by Ben Thompson, who placer mined a lot in Northern Nevada/ Mill City area. He describes. Terry T bones in 90's that found a 27 ounce nugget, and killed by a train. He also talks about Burns Bros truck stop, and Dick who worked there also found a 24 ounce nugget near where Terry found his (Big Easy). Enclosing pic if his book. Dave

Can I reduce the sensitivity of my GPX 5000 but still keep good depth. I'll show you the problems I'm getting in this video

Found this in P.A in family farm . Looks like a broke golden arrowhead . Not sure any ideas . It's was about a foot in the ground solid the whole way through and very heavy .

In FNQ Australia, there are a number of properties you can go on & detect for gold. Most places are pay to detect & are well set up for camping with designated areas set aside for metal detecting, if you are fortunate enough to have access to private leases & cattle stations with gold bearing country even better again. Up until today, I had access to one of these private cattle stations to prospect on. Unfortunately I no longer have access, this is due to the fact there are still people doing the wrong thing while on these properties. The rubbish left behind at camp sites and open detector holes for cattle to break legs in is out of control. On top of that you got fence jumpers & poachers running a muck too. This is causing huge issues for for graziers forcing them to close the gates to everyone & in most cases getting access now, is nearly impossible. I can't express in words how disappointing this is for us guys & girls who are doing the right thing, only to be told you can't detect at your favourite spot anymore because of w#%kers ruining it for everyone. So the quest for a new spot starts again.... Take only gold and memories & leave only foot prints. So we will all have somewhere to look for gold in the future!

https://metaldetectingforum.com/showthread.php?p=3118425#post3118425

Hi guys, a fellow forum member here in Australia detected what I presume is an eagle buckle a few days ago (guessing US in origin). Any help in identifying it would be appreciated. As a side note, we have had a few US Civil War buckles found this year in Oz, most would probably have originated from US prospectors trying their luck our goldfields.

I was looking around the new Minelab website and I noticed they now say the Equinox is single frequency on Gold Modes, is this some sort of error or are new Equinox 800's coming without multi-IQ on their gold modes? I found nothing wrong with MultiIQ Gold modes so I don't see why they'd change it. https://www.minelab.com/metal-detectors/equinox-800 Detect Modes Equally adaptable for all target types and ground conditions: Park Field Beach Gold: Gold Mode operates the high single frequencies of either 20 kHz or 40 kHz to detect gold nuggets in mineralised soils.

Used Cherry Pick settings from the Handbook for a brief session in a local park. Found a penny, the handle of a spoon. If it ever was silver plated, that is long gone. Then found a quarter-sized disk, a token of some sort. It says "Where a kid can be a kid" on both sides and one side was stamped OTTS.ORG. I just tried that website and it is apparently closed. There was a message to the effect to leave your contact info if you have any business with this site. Question: is there something more than the Lesche Predator but less than a shovel -- a mini shovel, perhaps?

if anyone has ideas, i would appreciate your knowledge or guesses. I am pretty sure it isnt plated, but it doesnt ID like a sterling ring would on my detector. Thanks for your help

This will be where I will post information. I will try and answer any questions I can about detector. Other folks who have experience with detector and wish to join in, by all means do so. Should have detector today sometime. Thought I would get this thread started to save time later. I will only be using Tarsacci on turf, not salt water/sand application. I may do some testing on freshwater beach due to lower minerals present. For refererence - Quick start guide https://drive.google.com/file/d/12ecPA1jFF7JOGZLYYywMxZeeyW5qqkMd/view User Manual https://drive.google.com/file/d/1jYhFnstUqLuo5eV28aEZsj9wfeY2TRt-/view Tarsacci MDT 8000 Data & Reviews

What are peoples thoughts on Ferrite Choke's/Core Filters on coil cables? I noticed that with my QED detector a Ferrite Filter came with it to clip onto my coil right up the end where it plugs into the control box. As I have a few coils I clipped one on each of them as I had a few of them laying around, I was a couple short so I'll have to buy some more to do every coil. Seeing the QED uses them I was wondering why other detectors don't so I googled images of coils, Well it turns out they do... Above is a picture of a CTX 3030 coil, note at the end where the cable plugs into the detector is the Ferrite. And then the GPZ 7000 also has one, but Minelab did it the better way by putting it on the wires inside the control box. This method would work better as the wires there aren't already shielded so the ferrite can work its magic better. Above is the Wiring Loom, C-Box Coil Connector for the GPZ. This is the perfect method in my opinion, the wires loop around the ferrite to give the best results and there is a shield wire going down onto the connector. This could possibly be a method the QED could use in future upgrades to give the best results as putting it over an already shielded wire would limit its effectiveness I would think. The filters probably do a better job at helping prevent EMI out of the detector than coming into it, but it would be interesting to know peoples thoughts on them. I'm going to order a few more clip on ones to put on my coils I use on the QED anyway as it must need them, these are the ones I'll get, simple clip ons... 5 for $2 🙂

Dear fellow treasure- and coin hunters, as I am very much interested in a trip to the UK I had to find out that those trips are fairly expensive. After more investigations I found something I want to share with you: https://www.farmstay.co.uk/PlacesToVisit There is farms and B&B offering accomodation and there is an option to select by activities. One option is metal detecting. I already contacted 2 farms and wait for feedback.

My detector has been having some problems lately. I have a teknetics liberator. The other night it was chirping periodically. In the morning it wouldn’t turn on. So I checked the connecting points and put a fresh battery in and the power button still didn’t work. When I put the battery in it would turn on automatically but then would turn off after a short time. Has anyone ever had experiences fixing this?

Say I'm trout fishing today and find a 4" quartz seam loaded with visible gold (Googly 'gold in quartz and it's as good as anything on page 1). But, the land is already claimed by an armchair 'miner' that actually just uses it as loooong term camping/fishing/hunting space without campground antics and charges plus it's close to a deer layover area. Say I know this for sure since I met his grandkids and son years ago during hunting season and taught them how to snipe for gold on that very stream since the 'miner' was oblivious as to how. What would you do; Tell him? Wait for him to lapse his claim into abandonment or die?

I have an equinox 800 debating on whether to upgrade to the etrac is a significant difference any information would be helpful thank you

So I have a Tesoro Mojave that I love, it made me put the "all mighty" AT Pro down and never pick it up again. But ever since I got it I couldn't use it on the "Low" ground condition setting because it would false like crazy. I finally decided to have a serious look around and see if anyone had this problem and had fixed it and I couldn't find anything. I posted on treasurenet to see if anyone could help with at least some knowledge of the trim pots on the circuit board but i didn't get much help. Then I remembered about a website I saw a while ago, TreasureLinx, that had some diagrams of Tesoro mods on it. So I emailed Sven, the owner and asked if he could help out. He told me which trim pot controlled the ground balance and I fixed the problem, at least so far I think it's fixed. I'm going to copy and paste the posts I made to treasurenet and the email to Sven here... (POST 1) Hey all. I've searched around google but I can't really find any information about this. I bought a Mojave on eBay a year or two ago and I love it. I found my first and best gold ring with it and i even ditched my AT Pro in favor of it. The problem is it's always been pretty hot and falsed a lot in the low setting of the GB. In southern CT I had to run it on the high ground balance even though I'm pretty sure the ground there isn't that mineralized. I love in Costa Rica now and the few times I've taken it out it likes to false on the high GB setting and the low is basically unusable. I've tuned the ground balance on my compadre that ran hot when I got it too but from what I can see there's no GB potentiometer screw on the Mojave. Does anyone know of anything I can do tune it a bit so it doesn't run so hot? (EMAIL TO SVEN) Hi, my name is Josh. I have a Tesoro Mojave that runs hot in high ground phase mode and I was wondering if you knew if either of the trim pots on the board are for adjusting the ground balance? I'm trying to ask on treasurenet and on the Facebook Tesoro group but I'm pretty sure it was you who put a manual ground balance on your Mojave. I've adjusted my compadre because when I got it it would false on some basalt rocks and now it runs perfectly quiet. But the Mojave has been chattery since I got it. Here's a picture of the board, I don't think you need it but I marked the two trim pots and the two wires coming from the ground phase toggle. Thanks! (EMAIL BACK FROM SVEN) Hi, one towards the PCB center should be GB pot, the other will be disc bias- don't touch it. Tom has reworked his Mojave with full mods, contact him thru Findmall https://www.findmall.com/profile.php?56,1260 Sven (EXPLANATION OF MY SOLUTION ON TNET) Ok I fixed this one too (I'm referring to the almost same problem I had with the Compadre that is documented on this forum also). I emailed Sven from treasurelinx, hoping he'd see the email and get back to me at some point in the next couple weeks...it was less than 12 hours before I had a reply. I asked him if he knew which trim pot, if any, controlled the ground balance. He informed me it was the one on the left, the innermost one that did. The one on the outside controls the discrimination and should not be touched. Here's what I did. I opened up the control box and exposed the board. I made sure the disc was set to the lowest position in iron (basically no disc), the sensitivity was on 4 and the ground condition was on low. I took the coil and pumped it at the ground and it falsed. I then turned the trimmer all the way CLOCKWISE until it wouldn't turn any more. I did this very very easily and lightly. If you attempt this remember, easily and lightly. I then pumped the coil to the ground to make sure it wasn't falseing still and it wasn't. Then I started turning it back COUNTER CLOCKWISE a tiny bit at a time until it started to false and then turned it slightly back CLOCKWISE to where it didn't false any more. Remember, the movements are slight when turning the trimmer. I also noticed that when I touched the yellow wire coming from the ground condition toggle, it made the machine false also. Knowing why and being able to fix it is probably beyond my knowledge and comfort zone so I made sure that when I put it back together it was snug and didn't move. I'm guessing some of the falseing was for that wire and other falseing was from the ground balance being off. Again, this was the solution to my problem. It might not be the same for everyone but it worked for me. I hope this helps at least one person with the same problem since I couldn't find a solution for it myself, or even a good picture of the board Here are some pictures of the Mojave board for reference

I'm chasing some advice. I've not been much of a beach hunter but do it occasionally, I started with a terrible little plastic scoop and quickly upgraded to a galvanized metal scoop as the plastic one felt like it would break every time I dug a hole in compacted sand. The Galvanized one wasn't too bad, quick and easy to dig with. I quickly got sick of getting on my knees to dig every hole when I encountered a beach with lots of bottle tops so I've just bought myself a stainless steel scoop that has the option of adding a long handle to. So I went down to the hardware store and purchased a hardwood handle for it, the problem now is, how long to I make my handle, this handle seems way too long as it goes up to my neck, I guess it's for a broom. What length is a good length for a sand scoop? I hope to use it in the water on a beach I did very well on in the sand. I'm 5'11" tall if that helps. Thanks for any advice.

This may seem hilarious but I want to use my detector to find a locomotive or two. In the 1920's some trains were buried nearby as a bit of a stop bank for the river to help with flooding as they no longer had a use for the trains when they decommissioned the train lines and their scrap metal value at the time was next to nothing. A team of guys are finding the trains to restore them to put them on display in the town. It seems from the surface currently the ones that have been found are about a meter down when you first encounter the metal but that could obviously vary, that's just ones they found using a digger exploring. I have a limited supply of detectors but I think possibly my GPX 4500 using the biggest coil I can get my hands on might be the best choice of detector? I can detect my car from almost what feels like about 2 meters in the air using the GPX and 14x9 Evo Mono and a train has a whole lot more metal than my car. I also have the Equinox with 12x15" coil, the T2 with 15" Teknetics coil and Garrett Euroace which is quite low frequency at 8.25khz with the 12x13" Nel Tornado coil and I have the 12x15" DD Commander coil for my GPX. Here is the ones they've found already And the Newspaper story on it https://www.stuff.co.nz/national/109051796/trains-unearthed-in-southland-for-the-first-time-in-nine-decades Does it seem feasible I would be able to help them find more using the GPX or any other detector? It's been mentioned I maybe able to help them but I wasn't sure. Also, if the GPX is the best, is there settings on it that would be best to find bigger deep targets, I have it setup to find small gold. Thanks 🙂

I found this very worn coin on the beach with the Equinox. I'd @ 14 and appears to be similar metal to a nickel. There is the bust of a head on the front looking to the left. The reverse shows the number 5. I've searched Google for octagonal coins with no luck. I found this in an area where I was finding bronze nails from a 1860 shipwreck. Anyone know what it is? Thanks, Tim

So I have a dilemma, I love my Nox 800 and I've found my original green T2 to be an excellent machine, especially now I've improved it's resistance to EMI. I'm also a bit of a collector of machines 🙂 Somebody is selling an F75 that has DST and was purchased new in 2017 in USA for a very cheap price, I've paid about the same amount for a coil before... it doesn't have any extra coils nor does it have Boost or Cache modes. Is there much point owning an F75 when I have a T2? They are really similar it seems but the F75 is much newer than my T2 so perhaps it's improved on a number of things. I've always wanted a machine that can use concentric coils so that's a bonus with the F75 that I can see. I was thinking it might suit my wife to use for coin hunting, the only type of detecting I can get her to do, she loved the comfort levels of my T2 but hated it's jumpy Target ID numbers when my Nox was rock solid, she always got me to check targets for her as my numbers were so much better so she started using my Gold Bug Pro as it had better ID's but it lacked the depth of the T2 and she complained it wasn't as comfortable to swing for her girl arm 🙂 I always assumed the Target ID range of 50 was a hindrance for the Nox but over time I've worked out it isn't, it bangs on a solid number on a lot of targets, the T2 even though has a larger range of 99 seems to bounce even when it gets a nice solid ID it's always bouncing between a couple of numbers, eg our $2 coins are a solid 21 on the Nox, on the T2 they seem to bounce between 78, 79 and 80 when in a very good range so even though it has a bigger range it doesn't really have a benefit. It's like my Garrett Ace 350 (Euroace) has a Target ID resolution of 12, so it is rock solid on $2 coins, never skips a beat, even at massive depth it gets the ID right as it's ID range is so small but obviously a lot of other targets will fall into that range also so you'll dig a lot of other targets trying to get that $2 coin. Is a newer F75 like that going to be giving a better Target ID on coins than my old first edition T2?, I believe it's from 2007. If so it's the perfect machine for my wife, she loves my T2's comfort levels but prefers my GBP's ability to ID targets. Keep in mind this is a decision based on my wife and coin hunting and not serious coin hunting, the occasional hunt for a bit of fun but I have to make it as easy for her as possible, she likes the comfort of my T2 but wants more accurate ID's. If I don't make it fun and easy for her, she doesn't want to do it and I like her doing the occasional hunt. I like it has a backlight too as I often coin hunt at night as I never do it with people around, I hate all the tourists coming up asking me questions like "what are you doing" My other option is to pay a lot more and get her a Nox 600 but I'm hesitant on that as she won't use it much and I don't like the idea of a fixed battery on a machine that doesn't get used often, I much prefer the AA's of the F75 in that situation. Is there anything I would appreciate with an F75 that I don't already have with my other detectors? I should add the F75 has had so little use it's not even flattened the first batteries. For those thinking I let her use my Nox on those occasions it's not happening, that thing doesn't leave my hands, I'd rather buy her one 🙂

My friend is asking what the restrictions are bringing gold nuggets into the United States from a foreign country? She also wants to know what the taxes might be or if there is a broker fee or any special license? I have no idea and only wish it was something I knew from experience but my nuggets wouldn’t draw much notice, however looking online I don’t see anything that would be an issue other than possibly normal currency limits and taxes although I’ve no idea how an exact value would be placed on something like natural unrefined gold, or are nuggets treated similar to loose and/or unpolished gem stones?

The group I detect with here in Eastern Oregon are mostly interested in gold hunting and we own and hunt with Minelabs, Gold Bug 2's and a few others. Many of my friends who are nearing retirement, have asked what I would recommend to hunt parks, schools, etc. for coins and I just don't know what to tell them, realizing that many wouldn't be able to afford some of the new machines. Could some of you familiar with coin hunting give me a list of their favorites, including less pricey older models. Thanks Guys. Gary

So there was a rattle inside my T2 when swinging it so I popped it open to have a look what the rattle was. It was a loose black wire, I can't see anywhere it was meant to be soldered on, the wire is stripped at the end but no visible signs it was ever soldered anywhere. This is a photo of a T2 board I found on the web, I've marked the black wire with the Red circle showing the wire in question. There is some hot glue on the back of the control box case that looks like it could possibly be the location where the end of the wire is meant to be, maybe it was just hot glued onto the control housing? The T2 is working perfectly with this wire not connected to anything, it's damn lucky it didn't hit something and short it while it was floating loose inside the control box. It's not worth sending the T2 overseas for this to be fixed and it's out of warranty now anyway, especially seeing it's working fine so I was hoping someone knew what this wire is for and where it's meant to be connected to. I think I'm right it was just hot glued to the case but I'd like to know for sure. I also have no idea why it would be there like that, like an antenna? Also, The T2 is a bit of a pain with EMI, has anyone considered or used EMI reducing coatings on housing to calm down emi? I've always known they existed but never tried one so it would be good to hear from someone who has had experience with them. This is the one I think might be the best, but there is also EMI reducing tapes and the more traditional metal with holes in it method. Super Shield Conductive Coating - 12 oz. aerosol Reduce or eliminate EMI / RFI interference in plastic electronic enclosures. An excellent general purpose EMI / RFI shielding spray. Protects sensitive electronic devices from electromagnetic interference. Ideal for use on plastic electronic enclosures. https://www.circuitspecialists.com/841-340g.html Could also do it the dodgy way and stick tin foil onto the inside of the plastic housing 🙂 It would work, if you wrap your mobile phone in tin foil and try calling it, the phone won’t have any signal. These radio waves are a form of EMF radiation. The tin foil acts as a barrier and completely blocks those waves. Thanks in advance for any help.