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Hey y'all, Quick confession, I wrote the title to get attention, I have read articles following the progress of this detector since its announcement, and merely haven't seen much new discussion, so I'm just looking for any new thoughts from the more experienced users on the forum! I have no need for anyone to bash it. If anyone will do that in the future it will be me. 🙂 I just bought a Manticore with the M11 and M9 coils. Got it used but the M9 and ML105 headphones were unused, and the M11 not much at all. I had to update it and the headphones, I had no problem at all. It was a great deal, and since my wife told me to do it, I didn't ask twice. 😎 Fortunately it popped up just when I was getting antsy about the price increase. Since it shipped I ordered some specific accessories: A white coil cover/bumper (I may get a green one, forgot about white sand) that encompasses the whole coil; And a keypad cover that reflects my personal style, but more importantly, along with the coil cover makes it easy to say "Hey, that's MY damn Manticore!" I also ordered a SteveG fiberglass lower simply because I've noticed some small improvement over CF with my other detector, so logically I want to hit the ground running. Add to that a WM09 rig to use other headphones. The reason I bought this machine is to not only have the compliment to my other detector, the venerable D2, but to really ensure I'm not missing out on anything. I plan to use it both on the beach and in the fields. My first "real" detector was an Equinox 600, and after the incredibly quick and simple updates, headphone pairing, and some indoor antics, I immediately came to the conclusion that this is a major improvement over the Equinox series, it's almost like every annoying characteristic of the great but time-worn predecessor is gone. Bravo, Minelab. 👏 In two short weeks I'm off to Florida to do some East Coast detecting with some forum friends, and I've already contacted at least one experienced member for some area-specific settings. I've already read this great post that was done a year ago: And I have to say that while it's spot on and loaded with great advice, something must have changed in a year... 🤔 I plan to do some hunting in my closest relic sites using vanilla All terrain General before I go, but sadly we've just been hit with a polar cold snap and the ground is frozen as it was exactly a year ago when I made a video of my Predator Ranger shovel bouncing off the ground. Wish I could post it. I'll be stuck inside for the next few days until the 1/2" of snow we got last night disappears and the ground thaws out, so to keep from extreme detecting withdrawal I'm asking for any wisdom this forum can impart. Thanks in advance! 🍀

Well it’s here and probably here to stay so people need to understand and live with its abilities. Not only is AI great at programming and writing, it has become advanced enough to find locations by matching landscape photos that people post online to Google Earth images and others, and with fairly good accuracy. This does not depend on the GPS tag location information that is also stored on your smartphone photos, it is actually an image search and analysis of the horizon features shown in the photo that it is doing. I am into Geography and GIS, and use a publicly available locating program to help with my wife’s historical archaeology work to find locations where old photos were taken (it only works if there hasn’t been too much development of the area in the meantime) and it has been fairly accurate. Anyways, just a heads up if you like to post landscape photos online but also want to keep your locations safe, as it is no longer just those people who are familiar with an area that can recognize where your landscape photos were taken, AI can now do it for for anyone almost as well as long as there’s a horizon shown with some features in the skyline (mountains and valleys and other unique items in the skyline).

Thanks GC for posting your reverse signal find with a GPX-6000 as it desired me to share a video for some of the newer swingers out there. The majority of gold 98% of what I have recovered in my 30 yrs of chasing the heavy metal...with Minelab PI detectors and including the GPZ-7000, usually have the normal "Wee-You" or High to Low signal response. This is great knowledge to know as in many locations, the Low to High response is trash and or ground mineral noise. Walking away from those signals has saved me so much time and energy and actually put more gold in my pouch. I have said it before, that I prefer to play the odds and I usually do better when playing the odds than many others who I hunt with. Now on occasion and in areas of thicker chunky gold and or larger gold, I do have to make adjustments and so I dig more trash and more ground minerals (false signals). Now at Rye Patch area, the majority of my digs are not trash. Heck I find very little trash at all and if I were to dig 10 times, it would result in 8 nuggets. But I know RP well and I also know certain areas of RP that has a much greater amount of ground mineralization. Those tricky broad reverse signals could possibly be a bigger chunk at depth? Here's a hint for those folks who encounter such site with that occasional False Signal. Do a quick Timing Adjust and most of the time the so called iffy signals will go away. When I first learned of the reverse signal in the 90's, I was in Easter Oregon with a customer, had found a chunky 2/3rd oz solid nugget. He and I were so pissed of that the target was reverse, we thought something was wrong with our detectors. I even called Minelab USA back then and they had no clue what I was talking about. They reached out to Australia who then informed me of such. So we learned. This old video I did shows the odd and rare gold "Reverse Signal". Then I use a nickel to show the standard proper "Gold Response" so many of us are used to. Just curious how many DP members have found the rare Reverse Signal and it turned out to me GOLD. Would love to see some of your Success pics. Who could only imagine what that 1 pounder is worth in today's $2700+ range. Then add the collectors value and it could purchase a new rig.

I asked ChatGPT to create a flow chart to help me decide whether to dig a target or not. I have been using a Minelab GPX 4500 for 2 years or so and feel that I have not learned much. I need a way to organize my thinking and experiences so I don’t forget them. I want something that I can revise and extend as my experience grows. We all know that we won’t agree, but this is a good way to start thinking about it. Please make comments and suggestions whether you agree or not. The more, the better. It is pretty simple, but here it is: Decision-Making Flowchart for Metal Detecting Using a PI Machine Part 1: Searching for Shallow Gold 1. Signal Detected - Proceed to analyze the signal. 2. Signal Type - High-Pitch to Low-Pitch (Falling Tone): Likely non-ferrous target; proceed to the next step. - Low-Pitch to High-Pitch (Rising Tone): Often ferrous or trash; proceed cautiously (exceptions exist). 3. Signal Sharpness - Sharp and Clear Signal: Indicates a solid, shallow target; likely worth digging. - Broad or Fuzzy Signal: Likely trash or an irregular object; consider skipping unless in a high-potential area. 4. Signal Consistency - Stable Across Swings: Strong indicator of a desirable target; dig. - Inconsistent or Changes with Angle: Likely trash or irregular material; consider skipping. 5. Final Decision - If the signal is high-pitch to low-pitch, sharp, and stable: Dig the target. - Otherwise: Ignore or move on. --- Part 2: Searching for Large, Deep Gold 1. Signal Detected - Proceed to analyze the signal. 2. Signal Type - High-Pitch to Low-Pitch (Falling Tone): Often non-ferrous target; proceed to the next step. - Low-Pitch to High-Pitch (Rising Tone): Can indicate large, deep ferrous targets or irregular trash; proceed cautiously. 3. Signal Strength - Weak Signal: Likely deep or small target; worth further investigation in areas with high gold potential. - Strong Signal: Likely shallow trash or a large target near the surface; evaluate carefully. 4. Signal Sharpness - Broad Signal: Common for deep, large objects; worth digging in high-potential areas. - Sharp Signal: Rare for deep targets but possible for compact, high-conductivity objects. 5. Ground Balance Check - Ensure proper ground balancing to rule out mineralization noise. 6. Signal Consistency - Stable Across Swings: Likely a desirable target; dig. - Inconsistent or Changes with Angle: Possibly trash or mineralization; consider skipping. 7. Final Decision - If the signal is weak, broad, stable, and persists after ground balancing: Dig the target. - Otherwise: Ignore or move on. --- Additional Notes: - Iron Falsing: Rusty iron may produce good signals; use "wiggle" techniques to confirm. - Digging Questionable Signals: In areas with known gold deposits, err on the side of digging. - Practice: Regularly practice identifying targets by sound and digging to refine skills and improve judgment. This decision-making framework can guide your efforts and improve efficiency while detecting for gold in various conditions.

Been a long time since I posted anything here, I love my Equinox 600 but haven't had anything interesting happen lately until today. I was going through Amazon deals and came across this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0C6LWNNF6 They're light, extremely comfortable, and inexpensive at the moment. They have a microphone but you can swing it out of the way. It isn't removable. They paired with the APTX-LL B+ sign on the Nox right out of the box, I did a factory reset to wipe out the previous headphones I was using, and then pushed the Wi-Fi/Bluetooth button, waited for the Wi-Fi icon to disappear. Then I turned on the headphones and hung them on the detector and walked away. When I came back they were paired. ? They're not all that loud even with the detector at full volume and the bone phones at full, but the point is they work, for a minimum investment of $49. I generally hunt fields so the volume isn't much of a problem, YMMV. Good luck, and happy hunting!

Retirement is probably a non-realistic option for most, in reality it's more like work till you die. But for those of you that can move to your dream prospecting area, where would you consider moving too??? I used to live hours away from my nearest mining camps which were located in Eastern Oregon and Southern Idaho, I was able to plan a few trips during the six months that they had road access due to the winter snows, in the end I realized Montana/Colorado/Northeastern Oregon/Alaska/Idaho/Wyoming/High Sierra's were probably not a good place to retire and be able to get out very often detecting, duck hunting was maybe more fit for these locations. These area's do have very remote areas that are spectacular to explore during the fair weather months and have very little people to worry about running into. I decided to try living in Winnemucca, Nevada which was probably a dream location for detecting especially in the late 90's. The changes that happened there were the big mining companies open pit mined a lot of the historical mining areas and the easy road access allowed the rest of the mining camps to get flogged with prospecting detectors. So Arizona has the opposite affect of the northern states, December is wonderful, but the summer heat is brutal, thankfully its not for six months and you can hunt in the mornings. This area has a mix of remote places and some flogged areas nearer to the snow bird camping areas. Definitely a place to consider for retirement detecting. California, hmm!!! why would you move to California, is this not the place where you make your fortune and leave as soon as possible? The southern area is surely overcrowded and has mostly private lands. The Motherload's Sierra foothills have a pretty good year around climate ideal for detecting, a lot less people to contend with and a huge amount of mining districts. The downside is lots of private ownership until you get farther into the higher Sierras', then your dealing with the winter snows as mentioned before. Northern California??? So far this place has a little of everything desirable for a retired detectorist. Lots of mining history, lots of open public lands, considerably less population, year round outdoor weather conditions (close by mountains for in the summer and the valley for when it's colder outside. Remember colder in the northern Sacramento valley is 40 degrees, not even cold if you have lived up north. I took a trip to southern New Mexico and went to Silver City and some other historical mining districts there, absolutely a beautiful place to explore. It also includes a lot of the qualities of northern California. I have not been to NZ, WA or other places like that. Maybe someone from there could better describe the places they have found there dream detecting place. Or maybe they do not want to attract attention to it, which makes good sense to keep it a secret.

Greetings! I have a Minelab GP 3500 that needs diagnosed and repaired. I cannot find anyone here in the USA that repairs these older models. Is there anyone in Australia or elsewhere that would do the repairs if I ship them the unit? Thank you!!

Has anyone seen that Ali Express offers major detectors from Minelab, Nokta & Garrett? You wonder how they can pull that off?

G'day all, I'm new to the prospecting scene, just bought a GPX 5000, was after some helpful advice and tips on the best settings.

I just came back from a campground trip that has a lot of electronic signals and energy both in the air and in the ground. In a few places the EMI is so bad that even single frequency struggles, but I have a proven simple way to minimize that. You will lose a little depth but you will still come away with a lot of finds, especially because other detectors do not have this capability. The Deus 2 really amazes me with its capability the more I use it, and I use it a lot. I've got to the point that I almost don't have to look at the screen. The Deus 2 has a setting called Audio Response, it's available in most or all programs, and has a setting from 1 to 7. It is primarily used to estimate depth via the strength of the audio signal in the headphones. I typically use two Deus 2 programs depending on where I am, Relic and Beach Sensitive. Usually when I am using Relic I do not have to adjust for EMI because I'm in a farm field with no EMI or power lines, and I run Audio Response at 7. My reason for this is to make even the smallest target at depth sound off. The same applies to Beach Sensitive, but the presence of salt water, Wi-Fi, or power lines may cause me to reduce the setting to compensate. If you hear EMI at all, try reducing Audio Response first before reducing other settings. I can run sensitivity at 92-94 with AR turned down to 3 in heavy EMI, and still dig good targets at 6-8" or deeper. What happens in my opinion is that the EMI is a weaker signal, and gets pushed to a very tolerable level, while the closer signal from the target is preferred. Using this has brought me many finds that others have missed. My favorites with AR at 7 are small coins like dimes that I can find at 12" or more, and very small buttons. If you read my posts, many coins are dark or green from being deep in the ground for a long time. It is great to have the ability to find even more by varying this setting! It is the first one I adjust. 🍀

Hello. This is for anyone who is interested in designing and printing their own things such as spare parts or accessories and has no experience with it. For my part, I wanted to have a second Whites battery compartment for Li-ion batteries and I quickly created it with free software and gave the created STL-file to a friend of my daughter to print, and the printing worked straight away. There are some software manufacturers that advertise free 3D CAD software, but I have only found one that can really be used without restrictions. and that is freecad. freecad is also available across platforms for Linux, MAC and Windows. There are also countless tutorials on the Internet that will teach you how to use freecad, in writing and as videos. People who have experience with 3D printing know that the printer requires slicer software, usually already included with the printer. But there are free alternatives here too. The next goal on my agenda is a budget 3D printer. I hope this post helps some people solve their problems and realize their ideas. All The Best

What are some basic tips and settings for detecting in mineralized soil and or water? I'm mainly looking for gold, small nuggets in this case, and silver. Yesterday I took it down to a creek and I felt like I couldn't get it set right. The sand/gravel has quite a bit of fine flour gold and a lot of black sand. I was getting constant dings at 11. 14-18 and 60 were common too. In a lot of places it signaled, but only while in the water so it feels like my gb is off or something. What can I do to help this? Just turn the sensitivity down? I dug some to check, but nothing. I tried wet sand setting and the signals started going to 60 and some at 43. Im not sure if I know how to balance it correctly. Will the detector pick up things not directly under the coil in water? I was using the smaller 6 inch coil. Any tips are appreciated, I'm fairly new at this. Thanks

I have a Minelab Excalibur II that needs TLC as well as a Tesoro Sand Shark. I am having trouble deciding what I should do with each. I feel for the price of getting the Excalibur fixed, I could buy one of the newer machines for about the same costs and have a warranty. The Sand Shark is a PI machine that seems to short out when in use.

Anyone who reads my posts recently saw a floating sifter I got for beach hunting, and thank you all for the suggestions regarding making it better. I took the advice of one of the people that responded, sent it back, and got the one I really wanted, the great but expensive Tube Tubb: This thing is big, kinda heavy (around 3 pounds), and expect to pay around $200 for it, but it's made in the USA, has no metal in it at all, and has a really thick fiber sifter with 3/8" holes. It can take a big scoop of rocks and silt and will not flip over just like the other one, but it's way more well made. It's 31" long by 16" wide. I got mine from Serious Detecting, but it's pretty much available from many metal detecting specialty companies online. My next problem was how to carry it. 😬 One thing I noticed with the other one was that because it's huge and the grab handles are thick, you have to carry it by hand or attached to a lanyard and it bangs all over the place during portage, not to mention keeping one of your hands occupied. I've seen the Hoover Boys using one but they just toss it in a boat, I have to walk to the beach from the parking lot. 😵 I searched Amazon for various backpack rigs and came upon this one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B08372G1VX Again it's kinda pricey ($68) but it's the only thing I could conceptualize holding this sifter. 🤔 Man was I surprised when it got here. It's a bit fiddly to adjust at first, but it's extremely well made and worth every penny, the perfect backpack carrier for the Tube Tubb. Pop the two button locked Bianchi clips and you're ready to go, you can keep the backpack unit on your back while in the water. 🥳 It has comfortable and easily adjustable shoulder straps and a cross strap as well. It also has a cushioned pad with two zipper pockets. Now with both hands free to carry my detector and scoop, I should be all set for some serious water hunting this fall at my rocky, pebbly beach. I will revisit this post when I have used this rig.

A friend of mine asked me today for some advice on a good entry-level detector. He mainly wants to dig coins, jewelry, relics, etc. But, he did say he would like to be able to look for gold, too, if he got the notion. Now, I know there are a lot of good detectors out there that will foot that bill. However, HIS entry-level is not the same as MY entry-level, so I'm not really sure where to point him. Which kind of leads to the topic of this post. I know back when I was growing up there were some really cheap detectors out there that one could purchase to get started. But, the thing is, they were just as cheap in quality and functionality as they were in price. Bounty Hunter's were about $50 during my childhood (maybe even less in some stores) and would have a hard time finding a locomotive in a rail yard. Then there were the Radio Shack branded machines that worked better as a walking stick than a detector. On the opposite side of that coin you had the good machines by White's, Fisher, Garrett, etc. MY very first detector ever was in 1997 and was a White's Goldmaster V-SAT. I bought it for $30 at a yard sale and it worked perfectly. So, his question on a "starter detector" got me to thinking. Does cheap price necessarily always mean cheap quality in respect to detectors these days? I'm a Minelab guy and that's all I use now; so my "normal" recommendation to him would have been a EQ800, EQ900, or maybe even the Manticore. But, he is looking for something $300 or cheaper... and that is where I got stuck. I know Minelab has the Vanquish and X-terra machines, but are they actually good machines for their low price? I really don't know. But, I do know that I do not have the financial ability to buy all of their cheap machines just to find out. Any input would be greatly appreciated. Thank you.

Hello again. I'm hoping that I can get some open and honest insight on a decision I am having a hard time making. And here is it: I have a Minelab GPX 6000 with the 3 ML coils (11", 14", and 17" elliptical). I also have a stock EQ700 that's only been used twice. I have been contemplating getting either the Coiltek Goldhawk 10"x5" coil or the NuggetFinder 12"x7" Xceed coil for the 6000. My thought was initially to trade the 17" elliptical for one of them, but I'm sure there are not many folks out there looking to swing that big old thing all day. OR.. maybe trade my EQ700 for one of those 2 coils. For those of you that have used the 2 coils I'm contemplating, would you guys mind giving me your personal thoughts/opinions/suggestions on what you would do? Should I keep both the 17" coil and the EQ700 and just spend the money on one of the other 2 coils? Or go ahead and sell/trade for one of them? Also, please tell me your thoughts on which of the 2 coils is "best" for the 6000? Thank you in advance to anyone who answers. 😊

Well, after almost two weeks out of the water, I just used on the wetsand the M9 for a couple days, leaving the M8 to rest for a little. So this morning I was approaching the deeper waters and after half an hour or so, a crazy noise started out of the blue. No sensitivity detuning or noise cancel or GB or program change worked to keep the machine quiet. Turned off and re-turned on, nothing, same conduct. At a certain point, really tired by all that noise, I managed to change the min. & max. Pitch lower to avoid ears overstress in the depth audio mode and simple profile (the only combination for a neat strong signal). This solved just partially the problem and finally I've been able to hear signals by three SS rings that were in the area. I passed and crossed the tight space in every possible way till silence, but I mean by objects. My Manticore seems to get crazy without a reason and in spite of the longer lower shaft to avoid the rod lock bolt interference or the usual tight cable on the upper part, it remains to understand what is happening. Later I'll carefully dry it out and clean as usual to change the coil and try with the M8. If at that point the noise goes away, I'm maybe the owner of a faulty M9. This is the fourth or fifth session I dive with it... Let's hope for the coil or I'll be forced to ship the Manti to the doctor😑

Hello I was wondering what the chances are or if there are meteorites In Southern Illinois because I believe I read on the internet that's her only really in mainly like five states and only 1900 a year found in the US. But I found a picture of one on the internet and what I have to me resembles it but others have told me it's slag I'm not sure so I was just looking for any advice It didn't make a mark on a ceramic tile on the back of it the first picture I'm going to put the meteorite picture off the internet and then I'll put a picture of what I have that I believe looks like it any info is appreciated and then I put a pic of the inside after I cut it open and I've never seen an earth rock look like this thing looks inside and I busted open thousands

Finally finished my mini WS-6 Master. First off, I bought a Golden Mask style shaft for it, it came with a steel arm cuff and foot, poorly and unevenly drilled holes for the zinc bolts (all the fitment hardware is zinc ?), and possibly a missing bottom shaft aligner. The shaft is carbon fiber, not the thickest I've seen, but it's fine for me. It has 3 sections which make it the longest detector I own, here it is next to my stock D2 fully extended: Yeah it's that long. You'd probably have to be Shaq or even taller to complain about it. Fully extended it's almost as tall as me (6'1). I could probably use it to search storm drains if they didn't have iron. ? I disliked the arm cuff, so I replaced it with an Anderson cuff for Minelab FBS detectors, it's powder coated aluminum. I used a single stainless bolt as the second hole was drilled improperly, and put 3M Extreme tape on the flange before I tightened it. I have a single zip tie on it to prevent rotation, but it probably won't. Next obstacle was a foot, I bought a Nokta Universal Bipod. Again secured from rotation by 3M Extreme tape. It folds forward and is very light. I secured the WS-6 puck holder to the mount using a single zip tie, it will not fall off. I think I learned that here from one of our other intrepid rural engineers. Gotta replace that zinc screw however, I'm sure it will rust fast. I will probably replace all of the hardware. Completely compressed the detector is a little smaller than my stock D2: I understand now why the 3d section position holder was omitted, it allows the coil to be rotated to the side to put it in a backpack. The biggest obstacle I noticed was the coil yoke, does anyone understand the XP coil securing concept? Xp coils come with a plug of sorts that goes on the wingnut side of the coil. The coils only come with one washer, and the reason for it is simple: XP puts all of the rotation pressure on one coil ear, nearly eliminating ear breakage. The plug fits in a hole on the wingnut side, and pushes the coil against the single washer on the bolt head side. This keeps the bolt straight so it does not break, and puts enough pressure on the coil so it can be made difficult to rotate. I've tested this concept with a Lyman Trigger Pull gauge. The amount of pull on the shaft in order to move it has to be greater than 5 pounds, or the coil will flop. Not so much the 9" but definitely the 11 and 13" coils, which is why you don't want to use two washers - one on each side - to secure the coil. I can pretty much guarantee bolt breakage or flop. This shaft came with two washer/grommets, that equals floppy coil. Most washers are made with EPDM or some other such compound, and they are slippery. Slippery x 2 = floppy coil or bolt bending and breaking. ? I found a solution to this as well, I went to my local Ace Hardware, and bought 2 hard black nylon washers and a press plug to hold them together, inserted it in the wingnut side of the yoke, and used the standard XP bolt and plug to hold it all together. Below is a photo of the assembly, you can see how it pushes the coil left to put pressure on the single washer/grommet, keeping the bolt straight. This can be tightened almost as much as you want without breaking a bolt, I'm getting 8 pounds of pull before the shaft moves, that's really good for people that don't like to spend all day adjusting the coil! ? Yes, I'm crazy. ? I removed two of the zip ties on the cuff, they aren't necessary anymore. The whole thing weighs 992 grams, that's about 2.19 pounds, a little heavier than the stock D2, but smaller and longer, and far more secure to use. The twist locks are aluminum with rubber grips, probably the second best thing to the carbon fiber ? I prefer camlocks. it may not be totally practical but it was a lot of fun figuring all this stuff out! ?

Does anyone on here know anything about the laws regarding detecting for gold in the Philippines? I know gold has been found all over the Islands and sits #2 in the world for gold reserves. I would like to know about requirements, permits,where to contact for any Geological/Gold maps or production journals,are you allowed to keep the gold, staking a claim in the Philippines, regions that produced nuggets, etc... I know of one area that produced nuggets and it was placer.

After all these years of detecting I'm considering adding gold prospecting to my game. I've never started just because my location did not make it seem like a fruitful thing to do given the beach and parks are always close by. It also hurt because the wife refused to allow me to put a wash plant in the backyard so I could pretend I was a miner. So that being said where to begin? I have my Manticore and Equinox but beyond that I have no clue how to read the ground or tell if something is going to be gold bearing. If you were advising someone just starting out what would the path be? Would you advise them to join and organization like GPAA? Pay someone like Gerry to take you into the goldfields and get a crash course in prospecting or take a more cerebral approach and digest as much of this forum and books as possible? I have time and in no hurry at the moment. The current economy has put a damper on some of my pursuits so funds are not unlimited. I gotta be smart as to how I get going on this and I figured this was the place and the group to ask. I'm located in Ventura County and I know at one time there was gold in our hills but maybe not so much anymore. Thanks in advance! Skate

Recently Gary Blackwell put up two videos informing us about a program someone else introduced to him - "Tekkna". It has a whizzy name for sure, and some really odd parameters. Here's the first video: The idea is that it's supposed to help you find small coins in iron infested areas. Let me first mention that no program or set of parameters for the D2 is "magic", although @Rattlehead's "Silver Slayer" was as close as one could get on V0.71 in my opinion. ? That was for coin shooting. Today I went back to continue my grid search of the place I was yesterday, but I quickly found out there was really nothing else, I believe it was a spot that was used a few times for a gathering in the early 1800s, there were oyster shells everywhere and occasional big iron hits, I dug a couple of them and they were all kettle fragments. I then switched to random hunting, located another really trashy spot further away, put the 9" on and tried Tekkna. Purely by coincidence I swung the detector a few times and got an 87 in all the trash, Tekkna really sounds off clear when you have a non-Ferrous target. Between a few odd bits of heavily squelched iron, I dug this: Yet another Spanish coin, #5 this year. ? I believe it to be a Half Reale cob. The reverse is this: Not much to go by other than the cross size, it would be much larger if it were clipped. Cobs are oddly shaped and cut. I searched around for two more hours using this program, made a couple of tweaks to it, first iron volume which I reduced to 8, and then Audio Response which I increased to 5. I also lowered Reactivity to 2 rather than 3 and heard a lot more targets, but from then on the only stuff I got was bits of lead. I also put bottle caps at 3 because the first time I used it here I dug a bottle cap. I might change that to 5 if I get another, it really doesn't mess things up, I've found gold in the beach with it at 5. Here's his second video posted today that gives clear instructions on how to set it up on the WS6: And here, in a nutshell are my notes for setting it up on the RC unit if watching the first video doesn't help: Tekkna Program Based on Sensitive Full Tones Disc 42 95 sensitivity Frequency Max 40 Iron volume 10 Reactivity 3 Audio Response 4 Frequency offset 10 Bottle Caps 0 Notch off Silencer 0 My impression of this program is that it is "interesting", it's not for the 13" coil for sure. You're going to be using it in machine gun iron hoping to squeeze one more target out. ? You don't need the bigger coils grabbing stuff on edge that might overwhelm the center. I lowered iron volume because it really hammers you, 8 is rather comfortable. I raised Audio Response because I wanted targets to jump out slightly more, and lowered Reactivity because I felt I wasn't hearing enough. I don't think the program is really "unmasking" anything, it's just giving you a better chance to find good stuff in the bad stuff. From other tests I've done live in the field I have yet to see any D2 mode "unmask", that seems to be a myth to me. If you're like Gary (I am) and want to feel like you're hearing everything, albeit a whisper until you catch a diggable target, it works rather well for that. It did find a small desirable coin in a bed of crap. Understand though, my area of the country has a lot of Spanish silver, you're not gonna just go out and have it appear. ? I'm pretty sure the UK is a lot different than my mild soil here in Virginia, but Tekkna might be another tool to add. I did not dig any iron, and had no instance where I might have. Check it out. I'll be testing it a lot more very soon, and will update this with any other observations I make. GL, HH ?

Although there used to be quite stringent rules for dealers on selling instruments and accessories outside the allocation area, lately it is possible to find several detectors of any brand on Amazon or eBay and buy them from another country. Having just sold a coil of my old Deus2, the new owner does not know what to do in case of service. Since the coil came from France, is it possible to get service from a dealer in another country? Should one send it to the dealer who first made the sale to initiate the service procedure? Thank you to anyone with information on this matter....

hi all anyone have any info on the CORS Shrew 6.5" x3.5” DD Search Coil im thinking on adding 1 to my g2+ since nel snake coils are not available

It was taken from a construction site where they were digging with the backhoe and they pulled a bunch of this out. Anyone know where I can sell it or anyone interested in buying some of it.