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A few weeks ago I lost my Garrett Carrot AT when detecting down at a local river, I didn't realise it was lost until it was long gone, I tried for a couple of days to walk the same path to find it but never did so I decided I'd buy another one and some gadgets to prevent me losing it too. I have the standard belt holder for my Carrot but didn't like it, too high on my body for my Carrot to sit so it kept getting banged. I first tried my Minelab finds bag to look after it, it appears to have Carrot holders on the side of it but it doesn't fit well which makes it difficult to get in and out and has no clip for a lanyard. It sits really high on the bag too and gets in the way of my elbows. So I hunted around on Ebay and found a Chinese made finds bag for a good price and it had a clip and fits the Carrot much better, the bag has more features and better quality too I like it's drink bottle holder pouch. A zip up pocket for the important stuff and a big area for the junk with holes to let out the dirt. It was about $15 USD delivered. Then I stumbled across bike torch mounts so I bought a few of them thinking I'll mount my carrot on my shaft 😀 They worked fine but again, difficult to get it in and out but there was another model available that looked better. The top is firm rubber and lets you get the Carrot in and out easily and they're only about $1 USD each with free shipping to NZ. They hold stable and won't be lost like this, I don't notice the weight, some might... I can use a torch in them for night detecting too if I wish. And the best news bit of this story, I found my original lost Carrot today down at the river while testing my new T2, it's in that photo on my Equinox shaft after I got it back... lucky it's waterproof as it's been through a lot of rain and snow. If anyone has a better method of not losing a Pinpointer I'd be interested in hearing it.

How many of you have a non-human prospecting or detecting buddy? Dog, cat, burro, reconnaissance bird... whatever. Post a pic and tell us about them. Here is a chance to brag about our best friends!

So there was a rattle inside my T2 when swinging it so I popped it open to have a look what the rattle was. It was a loose black wire, I can't see anywhere it was meant to be soldered on, the wire is stripped at the end but no visible signs it was ever soldered anywhere. This is a photo of a T2 board I found on the web, I've marked the black wire with the Red circle showing the wire in question. There is some hot glue on the back of the control box case that looks like it could possibly be the location where the end of the wire is meant to be, maybe it was just hot glued onto the control housing? The T2 is working perfectly with this wire not connected to anything, it's damn lucky it didn't hit something and short it while it was floating loose inside the control box. It's not worth sending the T2 overseas for this to be fixed and it's out of warranty now anyway, especially seeing it's working fine so I was hoping someone knew what this wire is for and where it's meant to be connected to. I think I'm right it was just hot glued to the case but I'd like to know for sure. I also have no idea why it would be there like that, like an antenna? Also, The T2 is a bit of a pain with EMI, has anyone considered or used EMI reducing coatings on housing to calm down emi? I've always known they existed but never tried one so it would be good to hear from someone who has had experience with them. This is the one I think might be the best, but there is also EMI reducing tapes and the more traditional metal with holes in it method. Super Shield Conductive Coating - 12 oz. aerosol Reduce or eliminate EMI / RFI interference in plastic electronic enclosures. An excellent general purpose EMI / RFI shielding spray. Protects sensitive electronic devices from electromagnetic interference. Ideal for use on plastic electronic enclosures. https://www.circuitspecialists.com/841-340g.html Could also do it the dodgy way and stick tin foil onto the inside of the plastic housing ? It would work, if you wrap your mobile phone in tin foil and try calling it, the phone won’t have any signal. These radio waves are a form of EMF radiation. The tin foil acts as a barrier and completely blocks those waves. Thanks in advance for any help.

Hi People when you see other detectorists, how much distance should one give each other? and 2nd question is, i have the minelab 15 pinpointer but it really struggles unless its all most on the target, it was a free pinpointer that came with the 600. Do i buy the minelab 35 or another brand? thanks

I am always dismayed when I read of fellow detectorists who say that they have yet to find a piece of gold after one year, two years, etc. I am to the point now where I find gold almost every time I go detecting. I may get skunked 1 out of 20 times. That 1 time is usually when I am prospecting totally new ground, and just have not hit a new area yet. We all know the saying, "Gold is where you find it." I think that statement is wrong and very misleading and harmful. In fact I think it may give newbies the wrong impression about prospecting for gold. It implies that gold is randomly dispersed, and if you do happen to find it, it is only by some coincidence or luck. Nothing could be further from the truth. Finding gold is a science and an art executed by people with the skill and experience that know what they are doing. All we are doing with a metal detector is processing dirt. Now the more dirt we process the better chance we have of finding gold. But think of what a small amount of dirt we are processing. A column of dirt under the coil to an indeterminate depth and we sweep that coil back and forth. We do that for 6 to 8 hours a day? Now compare that to the tons and tons of dirt you see the boys on Gold Rush process. Yards and yards and tons and tons of dirt processed to collect their gold. It's amazing that we find anything when you compare the small amount of dirt we "process" with a metal detector. So, think about what a bizarre feat it is for a person with a metal detector to process such a small amount of dirt, and yet be able to find gold. It is the old adage "needle in a haystack" so to speak. Yet, experienced prospectors, like Steve and a host of others on this forum who are always posting pictures of their gold finds ...., us guys that have been around a while, how come we are more successful at finding gold than other people? Do we process more dirt? NOPE! Our secret is we spend our time processing dirt that is more likely to have gold, than other dirt. We have all heard go low and go slow. Well, I agree with that "go low" admonishment. You need to keep that coil on the ground. But SLOW? If you watch experienced detectorists, you will see that they vary their speed when they are "looking for gold." They speed up in areas that their knowledge and experience tell them they are less likely to find gold. They slow down in areas where that experience tells them there may be a greater chance for there to be gold. So they spend their time more productively by processing only dirt that has a higher probability of having gold. Now when they find a nugget, they may turn around and go back over the area they went through quickly. This time they will go more slowly. They do this because they now know this area may be more likely to have gold too. So they invest their time wisely. As an outlandish example. You are standing in a paved parking lot of a Walmart. Next to the Walmart are acres and acres of quartz strewn red dirt with all kinds of gullies where water has ran during the wet season. Where are you most likely to find gold? Are you going to spend your day in the Walmart parking lot swinging over asphalt? Well experienced detectorists are constantly looking at their surroundings. They look at where they are going and where they have been. They are calculating the odds. Is this a Walmart parking lot, or a gold vault? "Gold is NOT where you find it." "Gold is found in places it is most likely to be." Seasoned prospectors have spent their careers learning what those places look like. Now are we ever surprised to find a nugget in a place where we would never intentionally look. Certainly, but those are few and far between. Most times when we find a nugget we have a pretty good idea of why it is where it is. Deteriorated quartz is everywhere, we detect on a bench, in a tailings pile, in the bend of a gully, under a waterfall of boulders, behind a bush lining a gully, near an old mine or there are indications the old timers were there. I once was way off the beaten path on my ATV. I found a canteen that said BEAR BRAND, Patent 1918. Lid still on it, canvas completely gone. I stopped right there and detected the gully I found it in. I pulled out three nuggets. Let's say after a year you finally find your first nugget, under a boulder up on the side of a gully. From that day forward, you will check every boulder on the side of gullies. Why? Because you learned where to look. It's no coincidence that after taking so long to find their first nugget, newbies generally find their second nugget soon there after. WHY? Knowledge. I have often said, if you don't take at least 20 minutes with every nugget you find, letting it tell you it's story, you are missing a valuable education. "How did you get here little buddy? Why did you stop here? Where did you come from? What's different about this gully than other gullies I have checked? Is there a concentration of deteriorated quartz around here? A contact zone? You're sort of rough, you didn't travel far did you?" I can almost bet that any experienced prospector will tell you that they can be riding on their ATV and all of a sudden they come upon ground and their heart starts beating a little harder. They may even say to themselves out loud, "Oh man this area looks good." After years and years of experience, we sometimes just "get a feeling." It's not voodoo, it's just our subconscious telling us that at sometime in our past, we came across a place that exhibited similar conditions, and we found gold there. We may not even remember the specific area in our distant past on a conscious level, but our sub-conscious knows. So what is the moral of this story? Buying a detector and expecting to learn how to become a successful prospector without training is like buying a 747 and trying to get it airborne when you have had no training. I hear it time and time again. I've been detecting 2 years and never found a piece of gold. Who trained you? TRAINED ME? "Well I've done a lot of research and I have read a lot on detecting and prospecting and I belong to the GPAA ...." That's akin to someone saying, "I have had the worst luck with airplanes. I have owned five different planes and can't get the damn things in the air; I have crashed every one of them." Where did you get your flight lessons? "ME? LESSONS? YOU MEAN FLYING LESSONS?" So boys and girls, my lesson for today is: "Gold is NOT where you find it." "Gold is found in places it is most likely to be." So hire someone to teach you WHERE to look! There are great dealers who frequent this forum who offer training... it is invaluable. A company who only sells you a detector, is doing just that. They are selling you a detector. There is nothing wrong with that if you are a seasoned veteran who does not need training. Or if you have someone who is willing to take you under their wing and teach you this wonderful past-time. However, if you are new, or not successful at finding gold, look for dealers who sell detectors and offer training. Because then you are not just buying a detector. You are investing in a relationship with someone who wants to make sure you are successful at learning how to prospect and find gold. Doc © 2017 G.M. "Doc" Lousignont, Ph.D.

Being new to these forums, if this is not the place for this, please move. Due to excitement just wanted to sing out here. I am adding a Gold detector to my arsenal.. I did research this for quite a bit and realized that gold detecting, nuggets anyway, would only be maybe 1%, well maybe less, use of the machine. It would also be used for general detecting and a unit for friends that want to give it a try (it’s a easy to use detector.) But, I do want a capable detector the will work for gold also. Reading Steve’s review and rating of this detector, I'm pulling the the lever. For these reasons I have chosen a Fisher Gold Bug Pro. Thanks for listening. Joe

Found this while scouting out another section of woods along a main trail. It's a Harvard Crimsons pin that was gold plated over brass. Also found a 61 silver Canadian quarter. Got excited at first until I whipped the dirt off the rim and saw it wasn't a really old USA coin :( . Also a musket ball and small round.

I have a Safari and have a few questions. Does wet grass have an affect on it? It is chirping like you threw tinfoil all over the ground, no matter what mode I am in.. No.2 sometimes when I use the pinpoint on the detector it will stay humming and the screen will show black no matter if it is over the target or not. Thank you.

Do I need to say anything about this? Enjoy. Re: Treasure Classifieds - Someone has a question about your listing Reply| Today, 10:39 AM You Good morning John, I am okay with the Terms and Condition of sale as seen on the advert including Your Final asking Price as Stated.I have gone through the content of the advert once again am very satisfy.Payment will be made out via a Check which will be issue to you for the payment and pick up will be arrange after the Check is Fully Cleared by your Bank.I will not be able to come over to view it because i'm always busy at work but i believe that all the details of the advert are right and will want update about the Service History. You don't have to worry yourself about the shipment, My Shipper will take care of pick up as soon as you confirm the payment is Cleared by your Bank. let me know if there is any other miscellaneous payment like,the tax charges, etc that will be added to it.Transportation and maintenance cost will be added to the Total amount that will be issued on the Check. it will be used By My shipper who will be coming for the Pick Up at your location after your bank confirms cash available for use.My shipper is the one that will act on my behalf regards the documentation of the change of ownership so any signation will be sign by my shipper pick up and other all necessary detail information will be fill by shipper so don't worry yourself about the change of ownership documentation will be taken care by my shipper.Get Back to me with information listed below in order to make out the Check and payment will be issued and send via first class Mail Name to Be Write on The Check Address To Send the Check To so you receive and get it Deposited in your bank. Your Phone Numbers. Many Thanks. Daniel.

A interesting article with some good videos. http://golddetecting.forumotion.net/t26534-home-made-skid-plates-easy

I found this button in a early 1900’s park in Utah County. I has a 3 point crown in the middle. No luck on the “google machine” so hopefully someone on here may have some insight as to a date and or manufacturer. The Nox read brass area but it was found about 8” with a square nail next to it. thanks for any help with this!

I’m waiting for my Anfibio multi to arrive and was curious if anyone has tried wireless earbuds with the Nokta detectors, I have an equinox 600 and use them sometimes, also an Avantree clip on transmitter with my Tony Eisenhower Waterproof headphones, it’s nice to have options, would also like to make an adapter so I can use Tony’s headphones underwater with the Anfibio.

I was wondering if anyone on this site can help me setting up a Goldseeker 9000 VLF/TR Metal Detector.The detector was built here in Australia by the creators who are now Minelab [I think].Well, my dad [Deceased] bought the unit in 1983 but never got a chance to use it because he had a stroke, so my Mum just put it away in the shed,Well, about 6 months before my Mum passed away last year, she gave it to me after she found it cleaning out her shed.There are a few instructions with it but not very clear, so if anyone out there can help me out, it would be very much appreciated.I know it is a good machine, and I would like to use it and try it out.Thanking everyone in advance.

As many GPX owners may know the GPX has toggle switches, they're quick and easy to use, but they're also quick and easy to bump... you can spend half a day detecting in a mode you didn't mean to by accident unless you check them regularly. It's happened to me all too often. I have a Steelphase SP01 audio enhancer for my GPX and on it's toggle switch is a handy little guard that stops you bumping it's on/off switch. I've decided I want to add something like this to my GPX to prevent me screwing up bumping the switches but I can't find where to buy them, I'll have to keep hunting around online and see, and also check electronics shops next time I'm in town. Has anyone done something like this to their GPX or am I the only clumsy one bumping the switches all the time? If so what switch guards were best? There appears to be a lot of different designs.

The Nox manual suggests a minimum charger output of 1.7 amps for a charger but does not give a safe maximum output. I have chargers with 2.4 amps and 3.4 amps. I think the 2.4 amp charger is ok to use but concerned that the 3.4 amp charger might be too hot and damage the battery although it does charge the Nox much faster than the 2.4. I have just replace the earbuds I have been using because I used a charger greater than the 1 amp maximum recommended (note to self: always read the users manual even if you think you know what you’re doing). So, do you folks think the 3.4 amp charger is safe to use or not? John

I'm a bit puzzled on timings, I've pretty much left mine in sensitive extra since getting it and it seems the go-to timing for around here. I only use mono coils and I'm basically chasing tiny gold in soils with very low mineralisation, 1 gram is huge for me so we are talking 0.0X to 0.3 gram bits on average that I am chasing. I was looking at timings charts on this site here and found the two best options for me below, I think. Sharp appears to be best if using a DD, does that mean I'd be best off sticking with my sensitive extra seeing I use a mono coil or is a DD coil worth considering? I'm trying to see if there is a way I can scratch out a bit more depth on these little nuggets. This chart is the one that throws me out the most, basically no timings are "Excellent" for mono coils except Fine Gold, Enhance and Sens Smooth which are more for mineralised soils, only DD coils seem to have Excellent for the timings I'm trying to use for the small gold in mild soils..... ? And this chart below describes the two timings I think might be best for me.

I found this at the same place the 1899 Barber Dime came from, the old farm where I grew up in Wisconsin. It appears to be brass, and the thin strip of metal makes a "bwonggg" sound when plucked. Any guesses?

Looking at some usernames on this forum i sometimes wonder how they came up with their name. Obviously some have user names that are their real name but others are a little more bizarre. When i decided to join prospecting forums i didn't know what to have, so googled how you say Gold in different languages. I came across "Jin" which is the Chinese term for gold.

Dear fellow treasure- and coin hunters, as I am very much interested in a trip to the UK I had to find out that those trips are fairly expensive. After more investigations I found something I want to share with you: https://www.farmstay.co.uk/PlacesToVisit There is farms and B&B offering accomodation and there is an option to select by activities. One option is metal detecting. I already contacted 2 farms and wait for feedback.

i m a New member. i Live in Turkey. Love stones and minerals. is this stone galena ? i found the rock in seferihisar . Turkey Thanks....

Well my Sand Shark is about finished so time to shop for a new dedicated (salt water ) beach detector. This machine will be dedicated to wet sand and/or surf only environment. Currently considering the ATX and TDIBH,, any suggestions / input would be appreciated.............Thanks! Rob

Anyone hunting near Bristol this August?

In your opinion or experience what is the deepest smallest picker that you found with a VLF? Which VLF detector do you think does the best with depth and sensitivity?

Found this in P.A in family farm . Looks like a broke golden arrowhead . Not sure any ideas . It's was about a foot in the ground solid the whole way through and very heavy .

I have been doing some research, whether im on the right track or not is part of the learning curve i spose! Are reefs/leads connected? Are they related to each other? I went off in another direction today. Riding the dirt bike to cover ground quickly and efficiently. No detector. Interesting to see ‘scratchings’ between reefs! Am i right or wrong?