GB_Amateur

Variable ground is exactly what this feature is made for. I've tried it in NW Nevada searching for tinies in Gold modes with the 6" coil and it seemed to perform quite well. Thanks for the followup. I've been wondering about your original post even as recently as two days ago So many (even I sometimes 🙄) ask for help/advice and then forget to repost when they find a reason/solution. I look forward to reading what your tracking experiments reveal.

Can you even find a new TDI of any variety? (There's a used Pro on Ebay.... That model seems to be the one the purists prefer. I think RNB makes lithium batteries for it.) In the USA (with service centers) your choice for a new land based (meaning with ground balance circuitry) PI seems to be down to the heavyweight Garrett ATX and the Minelabs (soon-to-be-released GPX6000, SDC2300, and price-reduced GPX5000). IMO, if you want/need a PI now, might as well get one. Used is always an option in my book. Life is too short to sit around and hope....

Like a lot of things, old steam and diesel engine powered farm equipment has a dedicated following. Here in the Midwest (when there isn't a pandemic in progress...) there's a show somewhere about every weekend during the 5-6 warm months. Has that sports field you found it in been around a long time? Or could it have been a farm prior to becoming a sports field?

Oiler seems right, maybe off a tractor? The coin/token is likely brass or bronze with a lower copper conent than our Large Cents (pure copper) and small cents (95% copper) given its Equinox dTID of 21. I find a lot of arcade tokens with that TID although they are smaller (just under 1 inch diameter). I have some batting cage tokens that are just under 1.25 inch but your find appears to be even bigger than that. Sure would be mega-cool if it were a Colonial coin, though. Quite an eclectic mix for a sports field.

Thanks a lot for that link, Steve. Obviously I had read it back then as I had given it a thumbs-up, but it didn't sink in, at least partly because I didn't even have one yet (and I've been learning it ever since; continuing to do that). You must have quite the ability to see the future, having answered my question perfectly three years before I asked it!

Sounds like I need to give Gold Mode more of a workout than just investigating questionable ('iffy') targets. I've become dependent upon multi-tones (5, not the full spectrum) when I hunt which saves my neck (don't have to watch the screen like I used to do with the Fisher Gold Bug Pro) but unmasking is worth the pain. I guess this is a case of not trying to cover too much ground as my need for unmasking is driven by the large amount of trash (especially iron) targets.

No, but I don't know too much about buttons. I did find a Waterbury catalog from turn of the century online (pdf format) but this doesn't look like one of theirs. Other military relic detectorists here might be able to identify your button. I know a lot more about (USA) coins and dinnerware since I've collected both of those for a long time. Buttons, just tried to ID the ones that have showed up while detecting (and I don't detect in battle sites so only have a few of those old ones).

I was out yesterday and remembered that the Gold Modes (I use Gold 1, if that matters) can be used to investigate iffy targets. Then I had a thought when I noticed a lot of ferrous hits per swing (likely nails) while searching in Park 1 (no notching/discrimination), gain of 24, Recovery Speed = 4, Iron Bias F2=0 -- I switched over to Gold 1 and the target rate per swing increased dramatically, something like a factor of two! (Note: there aren't hot rocks in this location and I checked that ground balance was correct. I'm pretty sure these are bits of iron such as nails or pieces of wire.)

You gotta change the thread title when you find coins. 😁 kac and School-master seem to have you headed in the right direction on your coin's ID. You can tell from the distance the bust is from the rim that it's not one of 'ours'. The diameter is right, though. (I guess we copied our former rulers.) The weight is light be that could be explained by wear and chemical action loss. Great to see all your finds that seem to be pouring in. I guess you gotta strike when the iron's hot (i.e. field hasn't been planted).

...where it belongs! If my ratio were similar (dry land detecting) I would conclude that the site hadn't been frequented in the last 35+ years (1982 having the last 95% copper cent production). But you beach detectorists have different environmental factors working. Is you conclusion similar or do you think the Zincolns have disappeared, either by corrosion or selective washing away? 7 hours with such a heavy detector is quite impressive. I do well to hold up after only half that amount of time with my ~3-3.5 lb detectors. And obviously, based upon simply the number of good targets s

Looks like to reverse was hit with a tool edge. Is it bent? Condition is otherwise nice. And it sounds like you've found others nearby in better shape -- good site! That button looks unusual. Can you discern the manufacturer? We mostly see military buttons of that style but of course the manufacturers (such as Scovill and Waterbury -- I think those are different companies) made buttons for civilian use. I doubt there are as many collectors of the latter, though. Nice finds!

For once it's an advantage being left handed. 😀 I prefer knobs that have incremental resistance ('click'). Headphones are where that can really help. (My SunRay Pro Golds don't have it. 😞) A couple opinions about this specific case: The on/off switch on the F75 is my favorite on all my dectectors. In today's digital world there are still situations where analog is a better option. This is just one more ergonomic nicity of the F75 (and T2). Having said that, it seems they didn't anticipate this annoyance of the knob getting bumped and unintentionally repositioned. I like your sol

Garrett site has $155 for AT version, $150 for Ace version. I don't know if the MAP is lower (couldn't find on Ebay with a Q&D search).

The 6" coils, for example, (especially the concentric but sometimes the DD) show up fairly often on Ebay for decent prices (meaning under $100 and sometimes in the ~$60 or so range). (I just looked and right now there is one but with a silly price.) One thing about at least the more recent (relative term 😁) Tesoro coils is that they come in two varieties: 4 pin ('Delta') and 5 pin ('Epsilon'). The LST, Vaquero, Tejon, and Cibola all use the 4 pin coil.

Is changing the male connector on the contol box an option? (Maybe you'll have the same problem of figuring out which wires go to which pins...) But that way you'll have all new connectors instead of all old (grubby looking 🥴) ones like in the bottom picture.