Jump to content

My Custom D2 Dive Shaft - Parts & Build


TTT2866

Recommended Posts

Hi all. I’ve had a few people on Facebook ask about my shaft setup so I thought why not make a thread about it in case others would like to try something different to the stock shaft. I’ve changed it around for a few months and found this is what I prefer. Only thing I would like is for the length to be a bit more adjustable. I may make a shorter interchangeable version. This version is also made to minimise chances something will break out in the water. Nothing worse than calling quits early because a part broke. 

 

personally, I do not like the original d2 shaft, it was too floppy, and I found that sometimes the drag on the coil would detect the aluminium upper shaft. This design is made to have little to no metal that can interfere with the coil. The other weak point is the mount, which would often come apart in the water if I bumped it wrong. I found that I do not look at the screen TID when detecting. My initial setup is putting the volume to full and changing to auto ground balancing, so I’m not bothered covering up the screen with straps. 
I used a T section as originally I had the d2 mount inserted inside it to mount the screen but I didn’t like it. 

Mind you, this setup isn’t cheap to make, I just have a lot of spare parts laying around so it didn’t really cost me anything. 

 

parts needed:

detect ed aluminium equinox arm-cuff (plastic equinox cuff will also work but will break eventually and damage the shaft) $70

detect Ed carbon upper shaft: $120 ish I think

9” carbon tube (or broken carbon lower shaft) 1.5-2mm thick (not needed but helps): $?

equinox 800 lower shaft: $45

minelab GP/SD handle: $35

stainless steel bolts (original will rust. I used some from my GoPro bolts and cut them down): $4

Pvc T section, about 1” : $4 

brass washers and small stainless screws: $5

nylon coil bolts from GPX x2 (short and long are ok) $4

Velcro straps. I used 2 from bunnings and shortened them but you can get them online: $5

Zip ties ($2)

 

changes:

lower shaft is equinox carbon shaft. It is thicker so will not wear down and break as easy. Keep in mind that some models of this lower shaft don’t have a water drainage hole. drill it out if needed. I opted not to. 
 

A 10mm  hole has been drilled through the bolt hole in the lower shaft . I can’t remember why - maybe to suit the Deus coil spacer. 

upper shaft has a roughly 9” carbon tube (old broken carbon lower shaft) glued inside to cover the equinox mounting holes, and to reinforce the top, as the screws need to be tight on the handle. Covering these holes also stop sand getting trapped in the shaft, otherwise your lower shaft will seize. 

Change the upper shaft collar bolts from stainless to the nylon ones. This lets you adjust them whenever, and won’t interfere with the coil. 
 

there’s a stopper in the top of the shaft, I drilled a 4mm hole in it to let water in and out. 

zip ties go around the coil antenna. They are also tight enough to hold it but not too tight I can’t remove them with my hand to ensure the coil is charging and light is flashing. 
 

drill 2 holes on the T section to thread your Velcro through. You can use zip ties instead but you’ll struggle getting the charger/headphone in and out. 

I also have a knife for cutting fishing line mounted to the side, but I found sometimes it jams with sand. You migut need a different knife to the one pictured. 
 

I hope this helps for anyone wanting to change it up 

335DE7D4-E71D-4975-8C74-A82F16496A99.jpeg

067FCDEB-333D-4584-9D1D-23A6A5005290.jpeg

FB7626BE-A6F8-4C9E-AC0D-88994983CE2C.jpeg

3E06E5AF-5997-4E69-AFE3-FD1CE14F688F.jpeg

Link to comment
Share on other sites


Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...