Practical 3d Printed Sluice

[Creekboy]

10 hours ago, rexhavoc said:

Here's a picture from August of my son and a Thingiverse sluice I printed of PLA. It's not going to stand up to a lot of abuse in the real world that's for sure. I've used the Keene flares; this is much more of a toy, and I doubt it will see use twice. 

That’s really great! Yes, PLA tends to be very brittle and does not like to be left in hot cars but this is awesome, I’m glad there are others out there wanting to print their own gear. 

[M1dn1ghtN1nj4]

In all honesty, I've found my PLA prints to be very durable.  Of course, you shouldn't be leaving it in a hot car anyway.  Depending on size, you can store your prints in a 5 gallon bucket (light color).  Or even just cover it with a blanket (out of the sun).

 

I've used several brands of PLA.  By FAR, I've found 3D-Fuels Workday PLA to be the absolute best as far as strength.

https://www.3dfuel.com/materials/workday-pla/

 

I would also recommend that you coat your part in XTC-3D.  It will seriously make your part better, and with gold, easier to clean.

https://www.smooth-on.com/product-line/xtc-3d/

 

The green riffle drop-ins in my sluice setup are made from the 3D-Fuel PLA (because of its durability)

[Alluminati]

I mostly use PETG  for mechanical parts, sometimes Taulman nylon if I'm feeling spendy.

While PLA + etc are decent, I pretty much just them it for indoor models and stuff. Decent PLA is the same price as decent PETG. I like the stiffness of PLA and the dimensional stability but it's not as forgiving with fasteners etc. If you drop a PLA Benchy, it sounds like a golf ball.

With a E3D hot end and a filament dryer I don't really lose print quality to speak of with PETG vs PLA, though it was a challenge at first.

 

[M1dn1ghtN1nj4]

I've never printed in anything other than PLA.  Need to find out what the requirements are for PETG.  If I'm going to make this for sale, I need it to be cost effective.

[Alluminati]

I use Esun PETG mostly, I pay about $27 Canadian for a killo. (About the same street price as PLA here)

The most important thing with PETG is to dry the filament. I made up something like THIS to dry my filaments.

I'm sure somebody could do you a bulk order on filament when you are ready.

As far as print surface, I use sanded blue masking tape. I use another ball of tape to get the sanding dust off. There are all kinds of new surfaces like spring steel and PEI etc, but the blue tape is a decent standby readily available.

[M1dn1ghtN1nj4]

11 hours ago, Alluminati said:

I use Esun PETG mostly, I pay about $27 Canadian for a killo. (About the same street price as PLA here)

The most important thing with PETG is to dry the filament. I made up something like THIS to dry my filaments.

I'm sure somebody could do you a bulk order on filament when you are ready.

As far as print surface, I use sanded blue masking tape. I use another ball of tape to get the sanding dust off. There are all kinds of new surfaces like spring steel and PEI etc, but the blue tape is a decent standby readily available.

I've tried PLA on painters tape, and it ends up stuck to the bottom of the print, so I have to sand it to get it clean again, and even that's not enough.  I currently use purple Elmers Glue Sticks on my TH3D build mat, and print on it like that.  Pops right off, and cleanup is just a rag with water.  Zero residue, and comes 100% clean.

[M1dn1ghtN1nj4]

I use a 5 gallon bucket filled with desiccant.  Turns pink when it's fully absorbed moisture.

Has a screw top lid, with a digital humidity level and temperature sensor.  Holds 4 spools of filament.  Total of maybe $40, possibly less.

[M1dn1ghtN1nj4]

And I use this food dehydrator to dry my filament, which then either gets used immediately, or goes into the bucket for long term storage.