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Dear fellow hunters, does anybody have a listing of VDI numbers for small / medium / large Gold coins? Unfortunately I don't have any othwise I could run my Nox over them. If anybody is able to help me....... I am mostly hunting in Field 1 Many thanks in advance Horst

My new T2 arrived this week so I decided I'd take it out for a test run today, I haven't bothered detecting football fields before, it never really crossed my mind to do so especially small town football fields that barely ever get used. I think the last time I even saw people on this thing was about a year ago and they were riding a horse 🙂 I guess back in time it was probably a popular place and my results today show this. This is going to be more of a picture story as the pictures tell 1000 words! I started using the T2 with Mars Tiger coil and within two minutes of arriving I had my first coin, then another, then another..... it was nuts, coins everywhere and very little junk, I was finding nice old coins, possibly one of my oldest in a while too Silver 🙂 1938 British Penny The T2 was getting good depth, easily hitting on coins with good ID's, another silver! 1948 Penny - Now NZ currency, not British like the older Pennies, we used some British currency until 1967. Prior to 1933 United Kingdom currency was the official legal tender of New Zealand, although Australian coins and notes were also generally accepted. The first New Zealand penny was minted in 1940. The penny ran until 1965, when New Zealand stopped minting pre-decimal coins in preparation for decimilisation in 1967. I have no idea what this thing is This is the football field I was detecting, under the goal posts and along the end of the field had a good collection of coins, I guess from all the diving with the ball and coins in the players pockets, I don't know much about football, probably the only NZ male who has no clue about the game 🙂 My oldest find of the day, a British 1912 One Penny It was quite deep down but the T2 banged on it real hard with a solid ID. At this point I decided I'd go home and gear up better as this place obviously has a lot of good old coins. I was only using my T2 with Carrot and Lesche digging tool which was hard work with all the coins being so deep. I wanted a bigger coil to cover more ground but there was no way I was going to strap on the 15" Teknetics coil to continue using the T2 as it weighs a tonne. I opted for the Equinox with it's 15" coil and almost straight away after turning it on, another coin 1950 NZ One Penny. I left the bit of dirt on the coil up the top it came out of, I love when you get the impression of the coin in the soil. Another silver, 1934 Shilling This is the hole it came from, I always recheck my holes and I'm glad I did, another target in the hole, then another... this was crazy 3 Silvers in the hole so far, 1934 Shilling, 1934 Shilling and a 1946 Sixpence, I was sure this was it but I did another check and off to the side of the hole, ANOTHER SILVER Another 1934 Shilling, 4 silvers in one hole, incredible! Someone had a bad day. 1964 Sixpence... the coins just kept coming, all old ones. No longer are they made of silver in 1964... Nice and deep though +++++ My first modern coin, a $2 But look how deep it was, it was deeper than a lot of far older coins.... weird! Another two in one hole, just one cent coins from back when NZ had one cent coins. Another coin leaving a cool impression of itself in the soil, just a one cent I think It sure a lot of ground to cover, I'll be at this place for weeks... plenty more coins to find I'm sure. Time to head back to the car, with my coil to the soil. Another for the road 🙂 Double sided impression on the soil with this one. I couldn't possibly put up a photo of every coin find as there were just too many, all in about 3 hours detecting. The good stuff The bad stuff... not a bad ratio, good stuff far outweighed bad stuff, unusual for me.... I'll be back there tomorrow.... and the next day.... and the next day 🙂

Ive seen a post that someone put up giving the program for a 3d printer coil ears.... and one that slips over the ears. But... how many of us have access to the 3D printer? I checked Ebay .... where i expected to see a few ...... but nada. Anyone selling these? Id like to get my hands on a couple for the Nox. Ive broken the ears off mine once and this seems like a good solution to protect them OR repair them once the warranty is out over the price of a new coil.

Over the years I found my share of gold rings mostly consisting of mens bands so I have a good idea of the TID range they will hit based on size, weight, thickness (cross section) and width. Compared to every other TID machine I have used the Equinox is an outlier. Rings that should hit in the Nickel range hit in the upper tab range, Medium size bands hit zinc penny where with other machines that would be a lunker Class ring or large heavy high karat gold band. 14K gold is not a high conductive target, Alloyed gold such as 14K is actually lower in conductivity than either of the constituent metals of gold and copper. Do these high readings have something to do with Multi-IQ? It's real and is consistent across every ring I have found. I don't understand what aspect of the Nox causes this. Rings are the perfect shape for generating eddy currents and so are generally easy targets for a metal detector but what is going on here with the Nox? I am at a loss to explain it.

I looked all through the Equinox tips here and didn't find anything that addresses this. I was detecting using wireless bluetooth earbuds that have worked fine for months. I walked out of range for a few minutes and when I came back the detector was running, the headphone symbol was showing on the control panel but there was no sound coming to the earbuds. I turned the detector off, turned the headphones off. Then turned the detector back on, the detector was working I could hear it, then turned the earbuds back on, the headphone symbol showed, the sound disappeared from the Equinox speaker but would not come through on the earbuds and it was the same thing when I repeated the sequence with wireless headphones that came with the detector. I also did resets on the headphones, re-paired with the detector - but the same thing happened. Any advice/help would be appreciated. Thanks!

At last, I am meeting an old friend for our first detecting session together. We bought our Equinoxs last March and I have used mine a lot. He hasn't used his very much. It just dawned on me that I don't know how to adjust our machines to reduce/eliminate interference with each other. The manual says to keep about 45 feet apart. That is my recollection, but I will check that simple factoid against my simple memory. But I am hoping to stay closer if it is possible to adjust settings. My instinct would be to go through my normal routine first- before turning on his detector. Recently, I have my pinpointer on before I turn my detector on (thanks Steve). This has nearly eliminated pinpointer jitters in my headphones. I plan to turn both pinpointers on before I set up my unit as usual. Once all is set, then I will have him turn on #2 and.set it up and noise cancel it against the competition. Any and all suggestions to revise my plan are welcome. Last consideration, which is highly improbable, is using WM08 to share audio on a single machine. The one time we shared audio was in the cockpit of his Cessna, and we reverted back to 5th grade behavior at 5000 feet. We barely made it back. I have high confidence that it would be extremely unproductive to be linked to him for any amount of time. He would be in full agreement. -curtis

I finally broke down and got serious about updating my 800, and like most people that has had problems when using Windows 7 I looked for a fix. After a short time of confusion about what was going on and not really finding any answers, I turned to YouTube and found the solution. Simply put the problem is not the program but the compatibility to Win 7. So all one has to do is the following: Before running the program, Highlight and right click on the program and scroll down to troubleshoot compatibility. Click on troubleshoot compatibility and click on Try recommended settings, click next, and then start program. That is all you need to do to get it to work. I hope that this helps someone else out there.

Nov 6, 2019

I have bad shoulders and find the 11” coil to be a bit cumbersome to swing. While the 6” is nice and light, you can’t get much ground coverage per swing. Anybody come out with a 10” solid Elliptical yet? Thanks! Walt ps: I know it only weighs something like 2.5 lbs. with the stock coil but you can sure tell the difference!

Cómo configurar el equinoccio 600 el más cercano al modo dorado del equinoccio 800, quiero hacer una prueba de profundidad con una pepita de oro de 14gr. ¿Cambiará la profundidad en relación con el equinoccio 800 en una pepita de 14 gramos?

Hello, New beginner from Middle TN with a new Equinox 600. Great forum here and I have read and digested to my best ability all the good information here. I have my 600 factory reset and in Park1. Have my test bed setup with a assortment of clad, sliver, copper, zinc, lead, iron and shredded aluminum, All at around 6-7 inches, but I did put a silver dime at 10 inches ( its flat, not not on edge). Im getting super results on everything but the 10 inch dime. I see lots of videos where this should not be a issue. Again, factory defaults, park 1, noise cancelled while held up in air, default ground balance, sensitivity 20.. Not a peep on the 10in dime.. If I crank up the sensitivity to 25 I do start to get peeps , but not consistent... Thoughts on what I should try and if this is to be expected or if I may have a bad unit... or any pointers at all would be much appreciated. Best Regards Brian

I put my 6" coil on immediately after I got it and loved how light weight it was (ordered it with the detector). I've used the 11" twice. Once at the beach in SoCal and then again yesterday. I noticed that the 6" is a bit noisier than the 11. Any thoughts! BTW, at a sensitivity of 20, it was finding pennies and dimes at 5" - 6" 😱

I’ve gotten a lot of questions from hunters (who learn that I have two books out on the Equinox) asking for “settings.” One guy saw some rings I had found in salt water with the Equinox and asked for my “settings.” Others describe a type of site they are hunting--“cellar holes” for example and want to know just what “settings” to run. I can’t answer these questions because what they need is not a “setting” but rather a skill set--a “system” of tuning the detector, (in relation to the specific ground and target matrix), listening to and examining targets with the coil, selecting responses and conducting their overall hunt. To focus on simple “settings” or the technology of any detector type ignores the fact that there are a whole range of skills needed for success at difficult sites. Not all involve the detector itself. The real skill lies in understanding and managing the interactions. A good maxim is that: “…predetermined settings only get you into the ball park—it’s up to you to find the best seat…” The ideas is to learn to recognise what the conditions demand and apply your machine’s strengths based upon basic skills--not hope it will take the place of them. What I advocate is a broad-based approach to learning and detecting. This is kind of like the Equinox itself--just as a multi-frequency signal gathers more information to be analysed, examining your signals from a wide range of standpoints lets you learn and develop a broader knowledge base--faster. Then, as you encounter problem targets or sets of conditions which are new--you have the general skills to adapt. Part of the misinformation about the Equinox comes from those who have had success under highly specific conditions--many in situations where not a lot of skill was needed--flat out “hear and dig” in stable inland conditions. While there are sets of conditions where this is the only way to operate--it’s a narrow mindset. Why buy a detector that has the versatility of the Equinox and not develop the kinds of skills that will let you get the most from it? From” “Skill Building with the Minelab Equinox Series Metal Detectors” by Clive James Clynick (Prestige Publishing, 2019)

I’m proud to announce my new 120 page book on developing your skills and accuracy with the Equinox. You could say that this is an advanced book about simple skills. These small, basic skills, tricks and competencies add up to “more than the sum of the parts” in what they allow you to do with the Equinox. It’s my hope that the book will teach readers to: -develop skills that can be applied at any type of site–park, relic or shoreline. -create effective custom settings for your sites by responding to the conditions. -understand and manage some of this detector’s performance “trade-offs.” -overcome conditions-related problems. -get more depth and hunt with greater accuracy using this great detector platform. -understand and apply the Minelab Equinox “2.0” upgrade. Skill-Building with the Minelab Equinox Metal Detector By Clive James Clynick Clive James Clynick is the author of some 24 previous treasure hunting “how-to” books and numerous articles. In this detailed and informative book, he explains how understanding the Equinox’s operating characteristics and features can help you to find more treasure. Topics include: Dense Iron Methods and Skill Building Walk First. How Small Skills Add Up to Accuracy Managing the Heavily Processed, Modulated Signal Understanding and Managing the Power Curve Beyond Meter and Tone Accuracy and Conclusiveness Salt Water Stabilization and Depth Tips from Top Hunters Signal Balancing the Equinox for More Depth ‘Micro’ Gold and Chain Hunting Understanding the Upgrades …and much more… (8.5 X 5.5, softbound 120 pages) $16.95 Ordering: http://www.clivesgoldpage.com/shop/publications/skill-building-with-the-minelab-equinox-series-metal-detectors/

I was reading a post on another forum and the poster stated that the VDI on deep silver dimes in Park 2 came in much lower than in Park 1. He was saying down in the single digits. I do not dig single digits or low double digits unless I am relic hunting or in an area where gold jewelry is a possibility. I have tested a 10 inch silver dime in Park 2, and although the VDI was more jumpy than a shallower target, it ranged between 19 to 27 with the primary numbers being 23 to 25. Has anyone experienced single digits on silver dimes or any silver coins? Not doubting the posters credibility just unable to duplicate his experience.

Hello treasure hunting friends. I've never used a metal detector. I just purchased a Minelab Equinox 800. I am looking for advice on settings when searching for large(1 once and larger)gold targets up to 36" deep. Thanks.

Here is Minelab's latest video explaining promoting Multi-IQ 🙂

Does anybody know why they didn't include the 15 kHz frequency in the Prospecting modes?

I enjoy this guys equinox videos, and found this one pretty helpful.

A question on another forum sparked my attention so I pulled out a few of mine to see how they rang up on the Equinox 800. The coins were laid separately on the ground so this was nothing more than an air test in Field 1. Coin Date VDI $0.50 1860 3 (California Gold fractional coin) $2.50 1925 15 $5.00 1881 18 $10.00 1888 21

As promised, below are my observations of the Equinox update 2.0.1 with concentration on Iron Bias F2 when used on Daytona Beach. Emphasis is on “MY”observations. These are mine and mine alone. You’re observations could very well differ depending on your beach...they’re all somewhat unique. The beach I hunted was at the Bahama House Hotel in Daytona Beach Shores. The conditions were sanded in but I did hit it at low tide. I can’t speak to or test in an environment that some characterize as a “bed of nails” since we don’t really see such conditions on our beaches. The junk we routinely have that causes detector problems is bottle caps from a variety of manufacturers, pull tabs, can slaw and aluminum foil with a few tent stakes thrown in now and again. Primarily I wanted to observe the 2.0.1/F2 function based on detected targets found at an actual beach using various 2.0/F2 settings vs the 1.7.5 FE iron bias function. You’ll not find any “scientific data” here as these are just my subjective observations….as was always the objective. Bottom Line Up Front: As fully expected, update 2.0.1 F2 is better at identifying various forms of “junk” alloy than 1.7.5 FE in this beach environment. Observations: 1. The signals I got from a variety of bottle caps not surprisingly differed depending on the metallurgical composition. Not all bottle caps are the same although they ring up as junk if they aren’t 100% aluminum. Some have more aluminum than others while others have more ferrous material. Success in identifying those signals ranged from “no doubt junk” to “no doubt good targets.” The all aluminum twist off caps for example still ring up solidly as good targets...same with the ever present pull tab but I have to dig them or risk missing out on gold. 2. I once again confirmed the importance of properly “dialing in” the settings appropriate to the environment. The relationship between sensitivity, recovery speed and F2 made a big difference. I found that a lower sensitivity (13-18) was best when paired with a recovery speed of around 3-4 and an F2 setting of between 5-7. Those were the “sweet spots” for me that day at that beach. Anything lower on the F2 scale than 5 the more the targets sounded like “dig me” targets. Anything above 7 and I sensed a potential masking issue. Again, just what I saw that day in an environment that had significant EMI I might add. The sweet spots will differ when EMI is not as much of a problem. The takeaway however remains...”dial it in” regardless and you’re detecting life will be much improved over the FE settings on the same targets. 3. I didn’t detect any caps in the surf so my testing was limited to the wet and dry areas. I did try my test sticks again as well and they confirmed what I was finding in the “real world.” “Dial me in Colonel and you’ll be rewarded.” 4. Not many targets that day but I did find a productive coin line...which even yielded an English 20 pence coin. Conclusion: I’ll use F2 with a high degree of confidence and be diligent to “dial it in” after noise canceling based on the local conditions. Any additional thoughts from your beach experience is highly encouraged and most welcome. Just the view from my foxhole...

Has anybody else noticed that the 12x15 coil doesn’t ground balance as well as the stock coil or the 6” coil? Or is it just my imagination?

Heres one id like to see what others have found. Today i was playing around on the beach with the Nox. Havent had much time with it so i thought id see how the F2 was working. That got me playing around with disc. What i noticed in disc ...... as i swung the coil it was knocking out the ferr like it should in disc....... HOWEVER i was getting these -1 and -2 iron blurps occasionally. I also noticed it knocked out the TID for iron except those digits giving the blurps..... oddly. Im an AM hunter on the beach. What i did was ..... turned down the volume to 0 for targets 0 and below. It seemed to work just like disc...... with two exceptions. 1.. you never got ANY sound from those -1 and -2 targets. 2..... the TID was still reading all the iron targets. So.......out in the water i went hunting in AM target volume for iron set at 2. Then id switch and go back...... doing it with disc....... then with iron volume at 0 using AM. Far less noise from mineral...... but i got the same non-ferr targets just as clear. I know people have asked if there is a difference between disc iron and turning the volume down to 0. To me there seems to be some near target ID bleed that can create unwanted noise at that 0 disc point.

Depth and unmasking...