UKD2User

Nice finds! I found an incised 'dandy' button exactly like the one in your second pic here in southern England - I wonder if they were made in the same place? A very similar button was found in this area a few years ago: https://www.sussexexpress.co.uk/heritage-and-retro/retro/pictures-from-the-big-dig-in-petworth-park-in-august-2015-which-uncovered-some-exciting-finds-4010584?page=2

So has it caught up with the MCore in your opinion?

So, switch on the RC in prog 1 general, change from large TID to standard TID display, then hit the audio shortcut button, then go to the equalizer and what should I expect to hear that is not correct?

Sorry - I can't make it do anything strange - what behaviour do you see?

So - don't keep us in suspense! Tell us what new error(s) you've found....

If you're looking for coins then "Deep HC" (prog 6) is a good one. Because it uses a lower frequency range than, say, "General (prog 1)" you risk missing out on some smaller items at depth (earring backs, cut quarter/half hammered coins etc.). Raising Disc to 39 will make things sound quieter, but again, increases the risk that you may miss some smaller and/or masked non-ferrous targets. Horses for courses, I think.

I've done almost exactly the same but with an extra XP lite shaft instead.

I get the impression that the testers are now happy with the software, and XP probably is too. I guess we are now waiting for (at least) 15 different translators to update/'localize' the software and manuals.

Page 38 of the manual says: "To extend the life of your batteries well beyond five years, do not store them either flat or fully charged for a long time. Keep them half charged between 40 and 80%. If you do not use your detector for several months, check them every two months by letting them go flat and then charging them to 40-80%" I don't always follow these suggestions, but I'm quite comfortable with the idea that I might need to change a battery or two at some time over the coming years, and that when I do, it will be inexpensive and reasonably easy to do.

Whatever you do, don't use the inbuilt clock to measure battery life (you could be in for some surprises!!) 😁

I think that this sounds like a good idea - let the pressure equalise.

Any signals which match a 'notched' TID will be 'rejected' and not make any sound. I think this works in multi/full and pitch tones - it would make sense if it did. If you use notch in pitch, you can preselect which TIDs (TIDs being a proxy for conductivity) will not make any sound.

When you save a program, you just save the active settings. So if you've selected pitch tones, that will be what gets saved. If you had previously been in, say 4 Tones and you had edited the 'stock' bins for that program, your changes would only be remembered until the machine was switched off. Tone bins only really mean anything when the conductivity (as approximated by the TID) governs the frequency/pitch of the sound you hear - which is not the case in Pitch Tones (it's a confusing name really!) - the frequency/pitch you hear in this case only varies by size/distance.

I have all three, the one I use least is the 11 inch.

Here in the UK we have a lot of small ancient coins hidden in iron and other trash. I have found that my D2 is particularly good at finding them - we mostly have quite benign soils here, which helps a lot for any detector, I think. 🙂

With the greatest of respect, I think you're getting a little bit carried away 😀.... Of course the D2 can be improved, and I have every confidence that it will be, but it's already a world-class machine (on the beach and in amongst modern/ancient pollution particularly). I think that XP are wise to only release new software when they are 100% confident in it. The alternative to XP's approach would be to make an announcement and then to continually fail to deliver against it (any similarity with other manufacturers would be entirely coincidental...🤐)...