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Found 54 results

  1. are starting to heat up. I spent a couple hours at the sand bar this morning and managed a couple pieces. Nothing to brag about as the stones in the ring are CZ's. The hoop earring is silver plated. There were 3 other hunters out and their finds were meager as well with only one gold ring being reported at this spot so far. The wire mesh I had welded in the scoop worked a dream. The earring back in the pic is just one of many tiny bits it captured saving a lot of time. 😉 The nut The heartbreak It really felt good to get out and get started on this years "crop"! 👍
  2. Disclaimer: I've only really been interested in Gold hunting so I'm pretty clueless in using my Nox for jewellery hunting. This might be a challenging one, a farmer I knows wife lost her wedding ring in a paddock and didn't realise, Later the same day they run a plough or some sort of farming gadget over the paddock as they planted it out with grass seed so the ring is likely buried. They're pretty certain it was lost in this paddock. I have been recruited to try find this ring, it's 24k gold with about 20 diamonds on it. The guy originally gave me the wrong description of the ring, probably his ex-wife's ring he described as he said it had 1 diamond and sapphires 😄 The paddock is really junk filled, I went and swung my detector over it yesterday morning before skiing and there was iron I assume setting the detector off everywhere in all metal mode. I know the VDI numbers are extremely useful for coin hunting but will they help for finding this ring, I really don't want to have to dig everything! Is there a range I should be targeting? I assume Field 1 will be the best mode or maybe Park 1 seeing there is a lot of junk? Small gold when prospecting always comes up under 10 on the VDI's, I am guessing a ring will come up higher? Would the Equinox be my best choice or would I be better off using my T2 with Mars Tiger 10x13" or 15" round Stock T2 coil for more ground coverage? I also have a Garrett Euroace with Nel Tornado 12x13" I could use if that would be best. That's the biggest coils I own. I have a GPX 4500 with a 15x12 DD Commander I could use but I don't want to dig lots of junk and I was hoping VDI's would be useful. I told them I'd do the hunt for nothing when they tried to pay me as it's a bit of fun for me anyway but they said they can't allow that and they'd give me a few sheep for my freezer for my efforts even if I don't find it but I'm sure if I find it they'll force me to take some sort of payment, I will try refuse as I really don't want it but it will be difficult to not take it when they're forcing it.... The paddock is about 3 hectares!!!!! Just over 7 acres so I really have a job ahead of me. The soil is extremely mild but it seems to have its share of junk. I assume rusty old nails and tractor bits and mower blades whatever else over the years. Any help appreciated.
  3. Hit this deep, 10 gram Platinum ring on the beach recently. Initial signal was a faint, choppy tone, jumpy 12/13 ID. After the 1st and 2nd scoops the signal went to negative #'s and gave me the iron tone. After the 3rd scoop the signal was gone. I utilized pinpoint mode thereafter and recovered the target after the 5th scoop. Solid 13 out the hole. Wet sand was hard packed so I don't believe the target was moving or sinking, no water filled the hole. Has anyone else experienced an initial good target going to negative #'s/iron readout? Halo effect on non-ferrous? Positive this target was at the brink of detection range...14" - 15" inches. Impressive depth but I will not trust that iron reading/tone if it is mixed with a positive reading/tone going forward. I run Beach 2 with no discrimination almost exclusively on the beach. GL & HH!
  4. Hunting tiny gold jewelry in inland sites is just so different from mainstream detecting methods that unless you do it you don't understand the requirements. #1. EMI stability. Your detector has to be stone cold stable. No spurious noise. None. The signals you are after are small tight signals and you can’t hear them if your detector is making spurious noises. #2. The detector needs to be able to keep its HOTs at low gain/sensitivity settings because: a... You need to be able to focus on the right depth of signals and those tiny signals are not deep. Most of the time they are just down in the grass roots. You want to focus only on the top three to four inches of depth. If you have to run your sensitivity at or near max all you are doing is masking the desired signal response with reports from all the other signals surrounding it and below it. And in cases where the ground minerals are high, the ground itself will mask the response. b... You need to control the coil foot print. In this type of hunting you don’t want coil edge surface responses. You only want to hear what is directly under your coil. Concentric coils work better at this than DD coils. DD coils are ok but you get better footprints with concentric and tighter readings on your meter. #3. The higher the operating frequency, the more important the above become. As the operating frequency goes up, the level of discrimination goes down because the trash targets hit harder and sound better. In other words, the higher the operating frequency the better the trash sounds and responds. #4. Notch discrimination or some other form of discrimination that will allow you to focus just on the signal range you are hunting. The only range of signals you are interested in are in the ferrous/non-ferrous boundary range and the foil range up to maybe the nickel reading. All other signals are distractions. I'm editing to add a number #5. Tiny signal audio boost is a big plus if it can be deployed while keeping original signal response integrity. I'll close with this.....You can take a gold prospecting unit onto a woodchip playground or a sand pit and as long as it can handle the EMI you can hunt with it on normal settings. But if you are targeting sites where good quality, tiny jewelry is most likely to be present, you will be working a lot of turf sites where a prospecting detector's normal feature set isn't going to be very helpful. HH Mike
  5. This post is mainly directed to UK field detecting where we have had social open air gatherings since Medieval times and on fields littered with coke. I used these settings yesterday and I was hopeful of finding at least one gold necklace / chain but alas none, better luck next time. As most of us know it is almost impossible to find a fine gold chain with any metal detector and as it is a long story why but mainly due to Eddy Currents and the metal detector rejecting coke which fits into the same frequency range as thin and fine gold and as here in the UK we find our permission fields littered with coke which mostly emanates from the days of steam engines powering farm equipment and the spreading of night soil as a crop fertilizer and which was collected from house middens and where the ashes from the household coal fires was used to cover the stinking human excrement, these ashes contained large cinders which survive for donkeys years in the soil and give off wonderful signals for metal detectors. This information on how to adjust the Tone Breaks to enhance the chances of finding gold chains during field detecting is only applicable to the Minelab Equinox 800 as it has the advanced settings capability. To alter the "Tone Breaks" it involves making changes to three "Target Tone Dependencies" which are "Number Of Target Tones", "Target Pitch" & "Target Volume". Here is my effort to change the settings to cover the frequency conductive range to give off a signal from thin gold chains in the discrimination zones, at present the default Discrimination zone is -9 to +2 and it is the Zero to +2 segment where gold chains show. So first of all select either "Field 1 or 2" your choice. Then go to "Target Tone" choose 5 tones. Then go to "Tone Breaks" and set the 5 tones as thus T1 = -9 to 0, T2 = 1 to 2, T3 = 3 to 28, T4 = 29 to 38, T5 = 39 to 40. Then go back to "Tone Volume" and set tone segments to T1 = 1, T2 = 15, T3 = 25, T4 = 25, T5 = 15. Then go to "Tone Pitch" and set the tone segments to T1 = 1, T2 = 15, T3 = 25, T4 = 20, T5 = 16. To move from from one tone segment to the next segment use the "Accept / Reject" button ( \//x ). These settings are working for me but then again they may not be every-bodies cup of tea.
  6. Hi All, I like H.Glenn Carson's books. I like the way he tries to get you into the right mindset for what you are hunting for. I wrote this little article several years ago kind of along his view of trying to get you to think rather than just telling you where to go. I find it helps you to own the information. Maybe some will find it helpful. HH Mike So you want to find gold with a metal detector? There are three forms of gold you can find with a metal detector; gold coins, gold nuggets and gold jewelry. I’m going to focus on gold jewelry, and further refine that focus to just gold jewelry found at inland sites, like parks, schools, athletic fields and play grounds. Tip number one: You hunt gold jewelry with your mind. Next time you are out and about, take a look at what type of jewelry people are wearing. What do you see? Who is wearing the gold? What type and size of gold is being worn? What part of the body is it being worn on? Almost everybody is wearing some type of gold jewelry. It may be in the form of a chain around a neck or wrist, to a ring on a finger, to an earring in the ear, but nearly everyone is wearing something. Married couples have wedding bands. Most post adolescent girls, young ladies and women are wearing multiple rings and often bracelets of some sort. The high school and college graduates are wearing class rings. Both female and males are often wearing gold chains. The males often just wear a chain, while the females often wear a chain with a pendant attached to it. You’ll even see ankle bracelets and toe rings. You will notice some cultures wear more than others. Some cultures will wear more and larger gold jewelry. But there are more things to look for than just culture. Pay attention to life style as well. For example the hip hop and rap lifestyles tend to wear bigger and larger jewelry. Can you say Bling Bling? What type and size of gold? The smallest gold is often worn in the ears. Little round studs and small designs, sometimes with stones. Various size loops. Often it is hard to tell but maybe you can notice what type of backing is used to hold them on. Probably easier to look at the women in your own life or visit a jewelry store or the jewelry counter at a big box store and learn about the different types and styles of making earrings stay in your ears. While you are there, study the clasps of chains and bracelets and the various sizes of rings. The girls/women wear the small diameter rings, ring sets, and often they will contain stones. The women will also wear the small gold bracelets, sometime with pendants, sometimes with stones, and small diameter chains, often with pendants. The men will wear the larger rings and the larger chains, and as mentioned above, certain cultures and lifestyles will wear even larger than normal gold. I was in a gold buyers shop a few months back and I saw a gentleman in there that had to have had at least $5,000 dollars worth of gold chain around his neck. Big links in the chains with big pendants in the shape of initials. He wasn’t selling, he was buying. So you have spent some time studying people and the jewelry they wear. And you have made the trip the jewelry counter or store and looked at how they are designed to stay on the body part they are intended to be wore on. You have seen the various earring retention systems; you have looked at the clasps of chains and bracelets. You have noticed the styles and sizes of rings. The next question is, “How is the jewelry separated from its respective body part?” That is a very good question. How do the earrings get out of the ears? How do the chains get off the neck? How do the rings come off the fingers? There are only two answers to that question. 1) They are taken off by the owner on purpose, or 2) They are accidently dislodged somehow. Let’s look at these individually. The first reason identified for jewelry separating from its respective body part was that it is taken off by the wearer on purpose. What is going to cause someone to remove a piece of jewelry? When I was young I remember my mom and grandmother taking off their wedding bands and placing them on the window sill before they did the dishes. Why? The main reason, of course, is for safe keeping. The item is removed so that it wouldn’t get lost or damaged. Let’s take that same thought pattern outside. So now we are outside. Folks are taking their jewelry off for safe keeping but where do they put it? Where is the first place you would put your ring if you took it off for safe keeping? In your pocket of course! What if you didn’t have a pocket? You’d give it to someone else who did have a pocket, or you’d put it somewhere you were pretty sure it would be safe. Somewhere you were confident you wouldn’t lose it, most likely with other stuff that you had to do the same thing with, or you would put it into something else, like a bag you brought with you. The second reason identified for jewelry separating from its owner is by it being accidently dislodged. Let’s think about that. What type of activity does it take to dislodge something that is designed to stay on your body unless you purposely remove it? Let’s use a men’s ring for an example. What type of activity does a man need to be involved in to lose his ring? He either has to have his hand in something that could potentially remove his ring when he removed his hand, or he had to engage in some sort of activity that would cause the ring to leave his finger. What would cause a chain to be dislodged from around a neck? The clasp has to either come open unexpectedly or the chain has to be caught in something that causes it to break. What would cause an earring to leave an ear? It has to lose its fastener, or be caught in something that would pull it from the ear, or both. How is something that is placed in a pocket or bag for safe keeping accidently leave its place of safe keeping? It has to fall out or be spilled out, or be accidently pulled out. Tip number two: Gold has to be hidden from eyesight for us to find it. How come when a piece of jewelry is lost the owner of the jewelry didn’t recover the lost piece? There are only two answers to this question. 1) They either didn’t know they had lost it, and/or, 2) It was lost in some type of media that could hide it from their eyes. There was something that prevented it from being found by only looking for it with their eyes. It could be sand, woodchips, gravel, grass, trash, leaves, anything that once something is dropped onto it or into it that makes it difficult to find with just your eyesight. Tip number three: Learn the loss characteristics of the items you find. Seek the answer to the question, “Why did I find what I found where I found it?” Once you think you have the answer, validate it by hunting other areas where that loss characteristic could be repeated and see if you find jewelry there. A validated loss characteristic is more valuable than the jewelry find itself. A few examples where I have found something and identified the items loss characteristic(s): I found a nice herringbone style 14kt gold chain on an athletic field. It was intact and the clasp was attached to its respective counterpart. The guy would have had to lose his head in order to lose the chain. But here it was down in the grass and there was no severed head with it. So how did it get there? This is an example of an item that was taken off for safekeeping and then lost. It wasn’t torn off, or flew off over his head, this had to come out of a pocket or bag, and I believe it was from a pocket as it wasn’t in a location where bags and such are normally staged. So what activity would normally take place where I found the chain that would cause it to come out of a pocket? Since it was a soccer field, I deduce it was something to do with running or perhaps falling down. I have found many items on athletic fields that were originally placed into a pocket or bag for safe keeping that was then subsequently lost. I found a little 10kt gold chain and pendant with a broken chain in the sand at a school playground. It was quite obvious from the broken chain that it had been torn from a child’s neck in some type of play activity. From the equipment around the find, along with subsequent chain finds in the same area around that equipment I deduce it is a great area for games of tag or some such activity as all the chains I found in that area have been broken. (a validated loss characteristic) I found a nice 14kt gold wedding band with three .20 carat diamonds mounted on it about five inches deep in some woodchips. Studying the situation, it was easy to see that a parent had been sitting on the curbing around the play ground, leaning back with their fingers buried in the loose wood chips watching their children play in the adjoining playground. When they removed their hands from the woodchips the ring was left behind and the parent either didn’t notice the ring was gone or noticed it but couldn’t find it. (validated loss characteristic) I found a nice wide wedding band near a goal post on a soccer field. It had obviously been left for safe keeping in that location, either with other possessions, or by itself and was either not recovered or fell out of a bag when the other possessions were recovered and hidden by the grass. (validated loss characteristic). Ok. So you have figured out the most likely reason a piece of jewelry was lost. Now what? Once it is understood why or how a particular item was lost, the next step is to seek out places where that particular loss characteristic can be repeated. Tip number four: Don’t dig trash, dig gold trash. Gold jewelry is a low conductive target on a metal detector and is found in the same range as aluminum trash. It is often a small target. Remember all those earrings and chains and rings and bracelets you saw at the jewelry counter? Small, low conductive objects that hide in the aluminum trash range can be tedious and hard to find. Even more so if you have to factor in ground minerals that can skew or even hide the signal of the jewelry item. So let’s think about that; small valuable targets mixed in with small aluminum trash that produces the same type readings on your metal detector. That means that to find the gold jewelry you will also have to sort through the trash. Doesn’t sound very promising, does it? Am I saying that to find the gold you have to dig it all? Nope. That is not what I am saying at all. What I am saying is that to find gold jewelry you have to dig all targets that have the highest probability of being gold. Now there are sites like woodchip and sand playground areas where you will want to recover every signal. But to do the same thing in a high use grassy park, athletic field or playground, trying to recover every signal is counterproductive. From your visit to the jewelry counter, you may have noticed that some of the chains have quite a bit of weight to them. A nice gold chain is a good find! Good money! So off I go to hunt chains. I’ve already used my mind, located a promising turf spot to hunt for chains and start digging all the pull tab signals. Hours later I have a hundred plus pull tabs, but no gold chains. Why? I was digging the wrong signals. Pull tabs would be the right targets to recover if I were hunting large rings, but worthless targets to recover if I am hunting gold chains. Especially so if you were in a site that you were confident would produce chains but not large rings. Get the picture? Let’s look at it a little differently. Let’s say that I get to my chain site and start digging all the signals. Now I have a chance to find a chain if it is there, but because I am digging everything I make very little progress on my site coverage, using up energy and time on non-chain targets. I have essentially cut done on my odds of actually finding the target I went out to find. To have the best odds of finding that gold chain I went looking for, I need to focus on signals that could actually be a gold chain and only recover those signals that could actually be a gold chain. Which leads to: Tip number five: the more ground you cover, the better your odds of recovering what you are looking for. By focusing only on the signal I’m after I can cover more ground and increase my odds of actually finding my desired object, which in this example is a gold chain. Tip number six: Gold is where you find it. Gold prospectors have a saying, “gold is where you find it.” That means that you hunt gold where it has been found in the past. Believe it or not, that same saying is true for jewelry. The characteristics that cause a piece of jewelry to be lost and hidden for you to find it with a metal detector are apt to be repeated again and again in the same location. When a gold prospector finds one nugget, he hunts the area carefully again, hoping to find another. When he does find another nugget in the same vicinity, it is called a “nugget patch”. As inland jewelry hunters we, too, are looking for a “patch”. In our case, a patch is a site or location where a particular loss characteristic can repeated again and again. We are not looking so much for that random find but rather that site location where that loss can be repeated again and again. That is a “patch” for a jewelry hunter. A successful jewelry hunter locates patches and then hunts his patches. Many of my jewelry items have come from the same locations that I have hunted again and again, another words, I have found them in my “patches”. Tip number seven: Hunt clad (modern coins) to improve your site reading skills. You say, “Well Mike that is all well and good for you. You have been doing this for a while now and know where to look. What about those of us which are new to the hobby, or maybe coming over to inland jewelry hunting from hunting relics or old coins?” My answer to you is to ‘hunt clad’. Sounds counter intuitive to hunt clad to find gold, but it’s not. Just like the relic hunter hunts for the iron to find the hot spots, so the inland jewelry hunter hunts clad to find the hot spots in parks, athletic fields and school playgrounds. Remember, unlike relics or old coins, jewelry is lost on a daily basis, just like modern clad coins, and often for the same reason. Clad will validate your site reading skills. Recovering the gold: The equipment. If you are going to focus on inland jewelry hunting with a metal detector there are certain features that make it easier to find. Just like any tool, the more appropriate the tool to the task, the easier the task becomes. Working on your car is much easier and efficient with a socket wrench set as compared to having only a pair of vise grips. You could still get the job done with the vise grips in many cases but it would be a tedious and tiring affair. The same thing can apply when it comes to your jewelry hunting tools. You can find jewelry with any metal detector, but it is easier if the metal detector has certain features. The first feature your detector needs is the ability to focus your attention onto your desired target signals. The easiest way to do this is with tone ID. Tone id allows you to discriminate the audio signals with your ears. If you are hunting ladies rings, you have to be able to tell the foil signals apart from all the other responses. Tone Id allows you to do this fast and easily. The better you can focus the tone id onto a certain conductivity range, the better the detector will function for jewelry hunting. A second, and a complimentary feature to tone id is Notch Discrimination. Notch Discrimination is the ability to discriminate out (or in) a range of target signals independent of the base discrimination setting. Again, focus is the key. The more you are focused on the desired signals, the more of the proper signals you will recover for the amount of area searched and the greater will be your success. The third feature is sensitivity to small low conductors. Traditionally this has been accomplished by using higher frequencies units, and is still preferred; however there are some machines on the market today that can give the needed sensitivity with lower frequencies than has been used in the past. Still, the bottom line is that your detector needs to be able to put out some heat on the lower conductive targets. The forth feature is recovery speed. How fast the machine resets after reporting so that you can hear the next target. This is important as the objects you are looking for are lying next to, below, or above other objects that you are not looking for. And they are small. My first gold jewelry find was two gold rings on a large paper clip. The paper clip response nearly completely masked the ring responses but the Fisher CoinStrike I was using at that time had a fast enough response speed that I was able to hear them as distinct, separate signals. I consider those the four most important features a metal detector needs to be a useful gold jewelry hunter. If you live in an area where the ground minerals are influential on signal responses like I do then you have to include ground cancelling features. There are other factors that can make one machine better than another like visual signal presentations, coil selections and such like. But as long as you have a unit that is fairly quick responding and will let you focus on a desired signal and put some heat on it, you are good to go. HH Mike Hillis
  7. schoolofhardNox

    Beach Hunt #7 Is In The Books

    Well today was beach hunt #7 with the Equinox. There wasn’t a lot of detecting room, with the way the tide was today. Also, a lot of people walking and laying out on the beach. It’s getting crowded out there. I was hoping to keep the streak alive today and I didn’t have to wait very long. First good target was the pink stone 14 K Gold ring. I almost didn’t believe it. That made the rest of the hunt less stressful and more enjoyable, as the gold streak would continue. But I didn’t expect to get too much more, but the finds kept coming. All the time I just kept shaking my head, I can’t believe what Minelab has done!!! 4 gold rings, some silver and a small amount of clad. The broken class ring was found in 2 separate holes about 60 ft apart. The breaking points match up perfectly…they were part of the same ring. The tiny targets were out in full force, as well as the pull tabs too. A small price to pay for the good finds that can come with it. Probably the smallest chain this machine can pick up. Had a hard time locating it once it was out of the hole. I was glad to get out today… a picture-perfect weather day!
  8. Mike Hillis

    Patch Gold

    Patch Gold = A patch is a hot spot with the right ingredients (cover, clientele, and activity) to allow re-occurring jewelry losses over time. Patch Gold is gold jewelry found in this hot spot. This is nice piece of Patch Gold from one of my patches. 18k White gold with a very pretty diamond I found a few weeks back. HH Mike
  9. I went out early this morning. I was expecting a cut as there had been a 3 hour period of high waves during high tide. As it turned out it was more of a 'blow over' than a cut so after about an hour it was time to move. My next beach was less blown over so I settled in for a bit. Finally I found a few quarters and that can mean rings! So it was today. My first ring was the 18. This made me circle, grid and look near for another. About 20 feet away I got the 16. Nice 2 ring morning before 7 AM. I kept hunting and found the cheap tennis bracelet and then I got the 8, the 3rd ring. I'll give the composition of the ring and you tell me which number goes with it. I'll come .back Thursday Night and tell you the number that goes with the ring There is a copper ring in the top center. There is a silver .925 ring on the left with a nice little amethyst. There is 18k GP ring with a larger glass or crystal on the right. Mitchel
  10. But the wrong kind Had to hunt the beach for a while before the sun and wind broke up 1/4 inch of skim ice next to the shore. As expected very few signals of any kind but did manage a small kids size 925 silver bracelet wgt 3.5 grams I really enjoy using the Fisher ID Edge for working the near shore iron and pulling out the small low conductors.
  11. OK , not all by the Equinox but nearly all are . The Equinox had 3 Silver rings on Saturday last . So far the Nox has had 1 x 18 k Gold with a yellow stone in . 1 Silver Bangle , 1 Silver Chain , 2 x Silver Pendants and 12 x Silver rings out of the 17 i have had this year so far and £141.60p in coinage . The remaining rings and Chain were with either the ET / 705 or Explorer 11 , they have had much more in coinage overall . The other 2 Gold fell to the Explorer 11. I should be getting my second Equinox soon , that will complete my Arsenal till a new ET comes out .
  12. I've primarily been a beach hunter and a coinshooter in the dirt but I'm looking to add parks and fields to hunt for rings. I'm curious where everyone finds the majority of their rings especially in park/sports field type settings. Over the years I've heard several things about where most rings are to be found in parks but never tried to prove them true. Since this is a forum dedicated to learning I'm hoping some of you ringmasters might share the best places to look. Thanks Skate
  13. After reading and rereading all the comments of the forum, decision for model 600, I think that for my needs, that is enough for me. I arrived yesterday and did a little test at home, since Steve has said many times that he does not have the gold program but that he can do equally well in other programs. This test is in park 2 mode and sensitivity to 12, since I am inside the house VID_20180417_192357.mp4
  14. I detected a school very close to my home that I have hit extensively in the past and have always wanted to pull a gold ring from it. It has been 9 years that I have detected it without success using an AT Pro, Teknetics G2, an MXT, and an E-Trac. I was out for one and a half hours today. Tracking was on, 50 tone, 23 sensitivity, and 7 for speed. The ring on the left is silver but the stones are fake. The Moon is also silver. The ring to the right of that is gold. The two other rings are junk. The charm bracelet is also junk. I found the rings among very heavily foiled junk. The silver ring came in at a 24, the gold ring came in at 16. As you can see, I did not dig much trash. The Rings were easy to tell that they were something different than the trash around them due to their numbers sticking out as different from the trash and pennies. My first hunt with the machine was March 10. Average for me was about one gold ring every 6 months or so. This machine ups my average!
  15. http://metaldetectingforum.com/showthread.php?p=2911948#post2911948
  16. https://www.findmall.com/read.php?107,2432256
  17. Current summer temp forecast for the US. I love it when people spend more time in the water loosing their precious. Some of my better bling finds...
  18. http://metaldetectingforum.com/showthread.php?t=258044
  19. Tnsharpshooter

    Few Nox 800 Finds

    Get these out of a pounded site. A site I hunted probably hunted 20 times, an old house site, nightmare scenario to hunt. Just going in there with a 11" coil, a person might need to have their head examined. Lol Anyway the little badge thingy, Ms, Ruth Huffines was one of 12 siblings, only herself and 1 sister and brother survive. Ms Huffines is 92 years old and is doing well according to her brother who lives done the road from me. I plan to communicate with her daughter and return this to who ever wants it be it her daughter or Ms Huffines (her maiden name) she is married. The little ring says on the inside 14K GP. Looks like the plating is trying to peel off. Then the buffalo nickel. This family was a big one, and was dirt poor. Only site I have ever hunted period where I have found more nickels than dimes and quarters. Site has given up 2 war nickels previously. Oh forgot to say. The badge thing was only giving a reading of 30 in this one little spot, detector like going bonkers. Here is what was in the hole with it. Badge does airtest with a 30 in the meter too.
  20. A common misperception among those new to metal detecting is that metal detectors can identify one metal from another. How much we wish that were true. The reality is that for all practical purposes the common metal detector target id scale is based on a combination of the conductive or ferrous properties of the item multiplied by the size and shape of the item. There are two common terms in use for this scale. The Target ID or TID scale is the most generic. White's also popularized the use of Visual Discrimination Indicator or VDI numbers. You will see references to both TID and VDI numbers and both refer to the same thing. The problem when you use Google is that TID also refers to Terminal ID number, which is for credit card machines. VDI gets far better results as the preferred term and so is what I will use from now on. The VDI scale is almost always arranged the same way by common convention although in theory it can be rearranged any way you want. The common scale has ferrous items on the low end and non-ferrous items on the high end. Ferrous items are like mirror images of non-ferrous items and so the most common arrangement of the VDI scale is with small items in the middle with ferrous getting larger in one direction and non-ferrous getting larger in the other direction. The ferrous and non-ferrous ranges actually overlap in the middle. Large Non-Ferrous Medium Non-Ferrous Small Non-Ferrous Tiny Ferrous/Non-Ferrous Overlap Small Ferrous Medium Ferrous Large Ferrous We can assign a numeric range to this basic VDI scale any way we want. Many early machines went with a 0 - 100 scale, with the ferrous compressed into the low end of the scale: 100 Large Non-Ferrous 50 Medium Non-Ferrous 20 Small Non-Ferrous 5 Tiny Ferrous/Non-Ferrous Overlap 3 Small Ferrous 1 Medium Ferrous 0 Large Ferrous The idea of ferrous as negative numbers made sense due to the mirror imaging in size between ferrous and non-ferrous. A very common White's scale runs from -95 to 0 to +95 95 Large Non-Ferrous 50 Medium Non-Ferrous 15 Small Non-Ferrous 0 Tiny Ferrous/Non-Ferrous Overlap -15 Small Ferrous - 20 Medium Ferrous - 40 Large Ferrous The "positive only" 0 - 100 VDI scale seems most popular these days with other manufacturers, but the scheme varies. Two very common setups are 0-40 ferrous and 41-99 non-ferrous OR 0-10 ferrous and 11-99 non-ferrous. But as I noted you can set this up any way you want and so other scales do exist. When we look at just the non-ferrous part of the scale, what is important is how the detector "sees" the target. In very simple terms conductive targets are either very weak or very strong or somewhere in between. Small items are weak targets. Low conductive metals are weak targets. Large items are strong targets. High conductive metals are strong targets. The shape matters. Irregular shapes or thin items are weak targets. Rounded and thick items are strong targets. On a conductive scale of 0 to 100: 0 = very small targets 100 = very large targets 0 = very thin targets 100 = very thick targets 0 = very low conductive metals 100 = very high conductive metals 0 = very irregular shaped targets 100 = very rounded targets, especially is a hole in the middle Add this all up and small gold items are low on the VDI scale and large gold items high on the scale. Silver being a better conductor than gold, a silver item will read higher on the scale than the identical size and shape gold item. In general silver will read higher than gold. However, a very large gold item can read higher than a very small silver item. Chasing thin hammered silver coins in the U.K., especially the cut varieties, is not that different than hunting gold nuggets. What you rapidly figure out is the metal detector VDI scale can only get repeatable results on certain man made items that are the same every time, like a U.S. nickel or a U.S. dime. And even these signals degrade when deep in the ground or in proximity to other items under the search coil at the same time. Given all the limitations, it is a wonder we get any degree of accuracy at all with detector discrimination systems. With that, I give you a standardized White's VDI scale taken directly from the control box of my White's DFX. This -95 to 0 to +95 scale is common on many modern White's detectors. Nearly all other detectors have the same relative positioning of items just with different numeric scales, an exception of note being the Fisher CZ detectors, which use a rearranged scale. This DFX scale is helpful because it includes gold coins. The main thing I want you to focus on here is the relative positioning of items on the scale. As a detectorist operating in the United States, I always pay attention to just three things 1. where do the ferrous numbers start? 2. where does a U.S. nickel read? and 3. where does a U.S. dime read? If I know those three things, I can adjust almost instantly to any detector scale in existence, because I know how everything else reads in relation to those three points on the scale. Looking at the scale you can use gold coins as a rough guide to where large gold nuggets will read, although coins being pure gold and round will read much better than gold nuggets of the same size. It might take a one pound gold nugget to read the same as a one ounce $20 gold coin, which in turn reads very close to the U.S. silver quarter reading. On the other end, tiny gold, tiny ferrous, and salt water, being a low conductive target, all overlap. This is why if you tune out salt water on the beach, you also tune out single post gold ear rings and thin gold chains, which read like small gold nuggets. If a prospector tunes out salt alkali readings on a salt lake, there go the small gold readings. And the chart shows that if you get too aggressive in rejecting all ferrous items, good items can be lost also. When I say small it is important to note what we are really talking about is small/weak readings. A large gold item buried very deep in mineralized ground will have a very weak reading and appear as a small target to the detector. This means a very deep large items can appear just like a very small gold item and be lost for the very same reasons as those small items. Again, think weak targets and strong targets to get a better feel for how things react in the field. To sum up, gold and platinum are low conductive metals, and when also small in size read very low on the VDI scale, even dipping into the ferrous range. The foil range is the sweet spot for ear rings, thin gold chains, small womens rings, and platinum items. In general women's gold rings will read below a U.S. nickel and men's gold rings will fall above a U.S. nickel on the VDI scale. Nearly all gold nuggets found by most people are going to read nickel and lower just because nearly all gold nuggets are small. However, as this photo I made using my DFX and some gold nuggets shows, gold nuggets can read all over the place due to their shape and purity. Surprisingly, if you add silver to gold the conductivity drops as alloys are less conductive than pure metals. This makes many gold jewelry items and gold nuggets far harder to detect than would be the case were they pure gold. See this article for details on this nugget photo Some Gold Nugget VDI Numbers You can get some great spreadsheets for jewelry VDI numbers for White's and Minelab detectors here. There are no doubt many people who have read this who are just shaking their head and thinking "this is why I just dig everything". I absolutely agree, when at all possible, that is the best solution. Unfortunately it simply is not possible in some locations where trash targets outnumber the good by thousands to one. This is where knowing the VDI scale and how it works can pay off. The best book ever written on the subject of discrimination is "Taking A Closer Look At Metal Detector Discrimination" by Robert C. Brockett. It is out of print but if you find a copy grab it, assuming the topic interests you.
  21. Lady is an attorney. I detect on her farm occasionally (350 acres). Said she lost ring day before yesterday and thought ring was lost when removing her gloves. Ring was lost supposedly in a goat barn. Yep she is a goat farmer too. One problem though she was feeding the goats feed and hay in this portion of goat barn where she thinks she lost. I swept the entire area (detectable) using Deus detector. No luck. May go back and take rhe Nokta Impact with smaller coil and try again. Remember the movie Gone in 60 seconds. Lol
  22. You either have the right metal detector for micro jewelry detecting or you don't. I hunt gold jewelry on land. It is my desired target. I focus on it to the near exclusion of all else. I hunt for hot spots and when I find them I prep them for efficient recovery of new losses. It is what I like to do. And I find pretty small jewelry. Too small to even take good pictures of with my current camera. So I thought I was doing pretty good. Maybe using the term 'Micro' was splitting hairs. I had asked Tom Dankowski what to use for a Micro Jewelry test piece. He replied back that a 10k White Gold 4 or 6 prong stud earring capable of holding, what? a 1/4 or 1/2 caret stone would be a recommended test object. So I went searching for something and finally obtain something at the right price off of ebay; 3mm solid 10k white gold 4 prong stud earring. Silicone backing. So its just the earring stud itself with a topaz stone in it. Pretty tiny. Smaller than I thought it would be when I ordered it. Ok. The Gold Bug Pro is a proven prospecting unit, and my G2+ is nothing more than a Gold Bug Pro on a different rod set up. I've seen the pictures of the small gold pickers it can find. So surely it will hit this earring no problem, Rght? Well, I put the 5" DD on it, and start bench testing. All metal gets a hit on it out to about 1-1/2" if the prong end of the earring is facing it. Horizontal and Vertical orientation presentations are much less. In Disc, I can get a signal about an 1" away with the prong facing the coil and the other orientations are about 1/2" with mostly non-ferrous responses. That is at maxed out sensitivity. Wow. I thought it would be better than that. I have a V3 with a 22kHz single frequency option with a hot gold program on it that will hit it good, too. Right? Well I put the 4x6 DD on the V3, load up my hot little gold program and start my test. Hey, I'm getting something, thinking positive...better depth than the gold bug, oh...wait....its picking up my hand. So I transfer the earring stud to a ruler and try again. This time no response. Or at least no usable response. Did some tweaking to the program and still no thing. Wow. Got to try some programming changes and see if I can at least equal the G2. Not done yet......what about the Omega 8500. No. Not a chance of every finding one these little earrings with that. Put it up. Still not done yet....what about the F75LTD? Lets give it a try. I put the little football concentric on it, maxed it out and frequency shifted for stability and give it a try. WOW. In both JE and Boost mode it did better than the G2. The G2 audio wasn't that strong but the F75 audio was great in all orientations. And I was getting at least an 1" in the vertical and horizontal orientations and about a 1-1/3" with the prongs facing the coil. And it was giving mostly non-ferrous TID. This reminded me again of what a top notch detector the F75 is and will always be. Wow. Just Wow. I ended up sitting there thinking about how much time I have wasted at some sites thinking that if 'any' gold was there I would have gotten it. I got over it a day or so later as reality set in and reminded me that hunting really small jewelry has its own little focus and that I need not worry about unless I'm specifically hunting for it. But that if I'm going to hunt for it I need to equipment myself for it. And that is the back story to my pre-order of the Makro Gold Kruzer. HH Mike
  23. I am using the Minelab Gold Monster 1000 here in Oahu. So far I have found 16 gold jewelry items. And yes, I do dig a lot of tin foil and many small pieces of other types of metal. Most of the time, I can operate in manual sensitivity level 9 or 10. In some areas, I do have to switch over to auto sensitivity + to be able to hunt. I do have high hopes for the Equinox 800 here.
  24. Finds first for the TLDR people. As the finds in my current primary patch dwindle in numbers from being worked heavily the past two years, I'm scouting for a new primary patch to begin working. Using the criteria and method outlined in a previous post, I've located a very good location that is certain to hold gold, silver, and more. Today will be my first time boots on the ground at that location and I'll walk the reader through it along with my scouting method. Maybe it will help someone and provide insight or encouragement. Here is the sat. view 5 playgrounds, one skate park, basketball, tennis, two soccer fields, two softball fields, two shelters, one former 1890's to 1950's church location on site. Here are my paths while scouting. Deus in red, V3i in green. So, from the sat. images there are many hot-spots to strike, and I won't try to get them all as this is a long term prospect, and I only desire to determine 3 primary things today. 1. Pressure - hunting pressure from other detectorists. 2. Trash composition and density. 3. Presence - Is there jewelry where I expect it to be. Deus gets the top spot today as it's the ideal scouting unit. Light, fast, great tones to read the trash. From the parking lot I begin and move to the skate park since it's close and can hold silver and junk jewelry along with lots of coins. Foil seems to be the primary trash along the way, and around the skate feature the aluminum kicks in - light can slaw and tabs primarily. I can hear lots and lots of coins, zinc and copper cents mostly, but a healthy quantity of dimes as well. I select a few targets I know are quarters and pennies, then intentionally sample some of the larger better sounding trash before moving on. The primary traffic flow from one side of the park to another is divided by a slight drainage ditch with the easiest pass being on either end... and people naturally take the easiest route, so I do too. Pennies everywhere! Zinc mostly, healthy dose of copper, decent selection of dimes, quite a few quarters...light trash mostly foil and ferrous bits... but I keep on moving through without digging a single target. Not interested today. Moving to the goal at the primary soccer field I work my way over to the nearest corner, then down the sideline to mid-field before cutting over to the center. Then I work my way to the opposite goal before coming around the back net. From there, and because of its close proximity to the goal, I briefly enter the playground before hitting the nearest corner of the soccer field diagonally opposite from the first corner I hit. Quarters everywhere! I decide to spend some time here sampling, cherry picking the best sounds. Within 10 minutes I found the heart pendant necklace. Jewelry confirmed, nice. So I pause, crank up the notch to 93 and take all the quarters before moving on. Erasing the notch I notice an area of the playground is different. Something was removed and not replaced. I suspect one of the super dangerous merry-go-rounds that children today get no experience or joy from used to be there. Clad everywhere....move on. Swing-set looks vintage so I check that and the mostly abandoned softball backstop area nearby. The trash picks up and bottle caps start to appear below the coil. I dug a first (for this park) beavertail ring pull, nice...a sign there might be some silver coins lurking around here. I'm getting hot by now so start thinking of shade and where to find some. It's scarce, so good places to concentrate. I mentally discriminate everything but quarters. Lots of nice signals, lots of trash and rusty caps. So far this is the trashiest area and I'm impressed it's not worse. Out of water and thirsty, I head back to the parking lot where I started, taking any quarters I come across. There are so many coins around it's obvious to me this park has never been heavily worked over by much of anyone in a long time, if ever. This place is a clad mine. Exactly how my current patch started out! I switch out units for the V3i and head towards the nearby secondary soccer field goal. I work one small corner of the goal net taking everything in a 6 foot diameter...clad and tabs mostly. Then I work right down the field towards the only clump of trees between the two fields and casually work the area randomly, still cherry picking signals but expanding the range down below zinc cents a little plus taking all nickel range targets as I find them. Getting tired and hot I'm thinking of wrapping it up so I head out to the sideline and try to find the trash zone where people sit and spectate. There isn't much trash to detect so I decide to just pick a line inside the playing field and take everything not obviously trash out of the ground. As I reached the corner of the field the silver ring shows up. Someone threw the ball into play and lost a ring perhaps. Now we're talking! Satisfied with the mission I walked off and swung over the curb area near the parking lot to get a feel for the trash there, too. With light to moderate trash, tons of clad signals, two pieces of jewelry - I have all the intel I need to know that this park is going to produce a few gold items, eventually. I'm hesitant to give 5 stars so we'll rate it at a 4 plus star park, IMO. Next hunt the tedious process of clad layer removal begins, oh, joy. Thanks for your time. Good hunting.
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