Rattlehead Posted April 19, 2023 Share Posted April 19, 2023 I just take measurements and then draw with my own CAD program. If something doesn't work perfectly, I make some adjustments and then give it another shot. I've only been 3D printing for a few months now. Ferrous Bueller (Chris) got me into it. Its fun to tinker with, and not very difficult to learn. 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rexhavoc Posted April 19, 2023 Author Share Posted April 19, 2023 It depends on the complexity of the object - either a scan or CAD model. The CAD models are preferable as you can modify them much more easily, especially if you define measurements parametrically. But, some things are just a pain to model. 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GoodAmount Posted April 20, 2023 Share Posted April 20, 2023 I’ve never printed directly from scan data as I’m rarely replicating existing parts. I usually design new parts - but they may mate up to another existing parts, which is where scan data can be helpful as a reference. Mostly though, good old vernier callipers do the job, plus importing front, rear, side, top and bottom photos into the modelling software which can be scaled for shape reference. It usually takes a couple of modifications and reprints to get the final part right. 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jasong Posted April 20, 2023 Share Posted April 20, 2023 For wear parts do you guys stick with stuff like ABS on 3d printers, or has anyone tried resin printers to see how durable they are for things like knuckles, etc? The resin printers seem pretty interesting for detail work, or things like experimenting with fine detail sluice riffle or pan bottom designs. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rexhavoc Posted April 20, 2023 Author Share Posted April 20, 2023 I don't like ABS filament for the noxious fumes it gives off during printing. It's not particularly tough either in my experience, as you can mar it with your fingernail. For filament prints I like PETG or other nylons. For resin prints I mostly choose Formlabs "Tough 1500". Resins of course come with their own challenges, being toxic until cured, and the isopropyl alcohol vapours emitted during the wash phase. But the resolution is hard to beat. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GoodAmount Posted April 20, 2023 Share Posted April 20, 2023 I print with PLA, PETG and TPU (for flexible parts) on my DIY 3D printers, but mainly ABS on my Stratasys machine. The prints that come of that machine are resilient and hard wearing. 300C extrusion temps and a 75C heated build chamber makes the layers bond super well. I’ve been really impressed with how the parts have performed in the field. I’ve only used SLA parts as visual prototypes in the past, so I’d be interested to hear how newer resins hold up in the field. The early resins were brittle and not much good for high impact applications, but the process resulted in excellent appearance parts. There’s been a lot of development with them since, so I’m sure the mechanical properties are better now. Anyway, I like using materials that can be recycled and so far resins are a little way off being reusable. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Herschbach Posted May 7, 2023 Share Posted May 7, 2023 well, there have been a few submissions, and a download, so I guess it's working. Thanks for the feedback, and do let me know if anything seems to not be working right. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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