Tyler

Which Coiltek are you speaking of?

Do y’all think the 11 coiltek elite is similar to the detech 11 ultra sensing as far a small gold and depth?

@RickUK I won’t submerge mine either. Also I’m very careful with the machine. Even though I love the way it operates if the most part it does have a fragile feel. I broke the coil ears on the first 11in coil but It was from over tightening I believe. Right after I put a put a stiffener on it as well. I was also in a rough, rocky cutover over with my wood laps and ruts from logging equipment. I may have stumbled and leaned on it. But I epoxied it back and tie wrapped it crossways it’s been holding for 18 months. I have a new spare just in case but I’d figure I would get all the use out of it I can. I might get a sturdier arm cuff for it. But I have some creeks and rivers that I might use the legend in if there’s a chance I might submerge the equinox. If it’s no more than a foot to 18 inches deep I’ll use the equinox.

@RickUKHave you tried running the 15x12 commander mono onthe TDI? I also have the ultra sensing 11 detech but I was hoping to not get the tiny bits with the 11 (I’ll save that for chasing gold) and maybe hit some larger deeper items with the commander when I want to use a lighter machine. I’m sure it would get more depth the the stock dual field 12.

Exactly! If it was going to crap out it would have done it shortly after it was submerged. I can’t bring myself to dunk mine.

Exactly! If it was going to crap out it would have done it shortly after it was submerged. I’ve heard the nokta legends are better in water than the original equinox. Is this true?

I run the 800 in field 1 most of the time with the 11in coil. If I’m in an iron patch like a colonial or pre civil war home or barn site I usually turn the sensitivity down to 18 sometimes less like 16. I haven’t been running to the updated iron 2 mode. Maybe I should. But I usually keep the iron bias at 2-3. 5 tones, recovery speed at 6-7. I leave the iron audio on so I can tell when I’m hitting heavy or lighter spots moving quieter ground. Or if I’m walk away from the main home site I can tell when I hit another structure or area of high activity. Typically I can pick through the iron pretty well. It takes some practice a learning the sounds but I can usually tell a False positive from a good signal most of the time. It takes a lot of digging and seeing what you have at first but I’ve noticed heavy flat iron pieces have a larger louder not so smooth tone with the ID jumping around. There’s a type of old tin can material that will fool you sometimes especially if it’s folded over. But it usually shows up at an ID at 16-15 or below and sound have a broader signal especially when shallow. With the sensitivity turned down the better signals that are in between and deeper have a more crisp sound and give a solid ID. I need to try some of the smaller coils soon. A lot of the times I’ll move to the outskirts and need the 11 because of its good all around abilities to get the deeper stuff. But you will start noticing tendencies like that. Different ways the machine reacts to a target. Deep square nails especially if bent when at the depth limit will give an iffy signal but so will a deep bullet. I used to run the Whites MXT and the flat iron, beer caps or larger iron would always have a rougher signal with a subtle iron grunt mixed in with the good signal. Those deep square nails at like a foot deep+ would give iffy signals but sometimes its a bullet. That machine faired better with the gain turned back in iron as well. Some people get in trouble running the gain to high in iron patches. No machine is perfect but the more you dig and learn with it the better. Definitely take the time to learn the machines language.

Has it been submerged?

Are the carbon fiber shafts all the great for the equinox? What’s the greatest advantage?

Thanks for the info. I currently have the 15x12 commander DD. I’ve only had the GPX for about a year and only used it a few times because life’s been busy with kids and work. I’ve got a mix of spots about half in good ground with a few hot spots and the other half is either red hot or moderate. I’ve been using the equinox in my spots in good ground and doing pretty well with it. I hit a spot not long ago that I had gone over many times with a VLF on a moderately hot ridge and got several pistol bullets and a couple eagle buttons I had missed. Is it worth taking the GPX in good ground camps I’ve hit hard already with VLFs or mainly hot ground places?

Had you had the 14 Coiltek for awhile? I was wondering about their durability?

Thanks for sending those. It seems to be in good shape other than the cable support. I could fix that. Let me do some thinking overnight. I’ll get back to you tomorrow. What went bad on your coiltek 14?

How’s the discrimination depth on the 14 coiltek? Similar to the 15x12 commander and the Ultimate spiral? And does your friend still have the ultimate spiral for sale?

Yeah I’m very tempted to get one. I would use it for relic hunting and prospecting. I’m hoping I can find a used one after this DIV hunt in Virginia is over.

The 15x12 DD commander is a popular coil around here at civil war camps in highly mineralized ground. There’s some mean ground around here. Most of those sites are littered in iron too and the discrimination is needed. The only thing I would use the mono version would be prospecting away from much iron. But I think the detech 11 mono ultra sensing I just got would probably be just as effective.

That’s what I figured. I know it’s a good deal but the ultra sensing 11 would probably punches down just as deep.

Using the GPX 4000. I see someone has a 15x12 mono hardly used for 100 dollars. I have the DD version and a detech 11 ultra sensing mono. Would this coil be any more effective than either one of those on deeper larger nuggets?

It seems to work well. I tried just the silicone tape one time in a hay field that hadn’t long been cut and there was just enough stubble and sharp edges from different grasses and weeds that it popped of in less than 30 mins. Even since I’ve started putting that wrap of electrical tape over the silicone I haven’t had any problems. I think it’s a good combination. If hunting in highly mineralized soils just keep an eye on how much dirt you have building up around the edge. Give it a cleaning or change the tape out of it gets to bad.

If started to use the silicone self sealing tape a couple wraps and then go over top of it with electrical tape. That way if you need to take it off the electrical won’t leave any residue on the coil. And the silicone just pops right off. I’ve found it you wrap the silicone tightly stretching it that just the silicone alone will pop off the coil sometimes just from hitting sharp objects. The electrical tape holds it in place nicely.

Thanks for the tips! Looking forward to trying it. I’m thinking it will do well in spots I’ve gone over with the stock coil.

Yeah I just got the 10x5. I usually keep the 11 on because sometimes I like to move out of the iron and hunt the outskirts of the house sites where civil war camps often were. The 10x5 might be a good compromise between separation and depth. I know the stock 11 punches down deep on bullets and buttons. When I hit and iron patch I’ll turn back the sensitivity a bit and run the swing speed higher.

What are most of y’all using these days? Which one is deeper? Better on small gold?

Has anyone used the 10x5 around iron infested home sites. Does it fair any better than the stock 11? I’ve had some success with the stock 11 in colonial and civil war era houses. Would the 10x5 do any better than the 6?

Would you say the ratio of the depth on the commander on a bullet for example would be in between the 15x12. Say like I’m the middle 13.5 inches Or would it just be the width of the coil roughly 12 inches.