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Skookum

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About Skookum

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location:
    Arizona
  • Gear Used:
    Minelab Goldmonster 1000, Minelab Equinox 800

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  1. This poll is designed to see who is currently using either the Minelab SDC or GPZ detectors with a component of identifying anyone who actively uses both. (I hypothesize there may be a selection bias in this forum in favor of more detectorists who use the GPZ even though sales of the SDC are much higher.)
  2. Unfortunately, I didn't take a before and after photo of my IHP, but here are a couple of silvers that were just for fun. It was a totally different process though. And, yes, they are probably only worth a melt value. But, it brings me a degree of satisfaction and makes my collection prettier.
  3. That green patina is quite unique and called verdigris. I can't quite see it cleary enough, but it doesn't look like you have much brozne disease. Maybe there is a little bit of it around the edges. There is a cool way to remove bronze disease, and preserve the patina, but it will put a matte finish on the coin. The phrase you'll often read online is to NEVER CLEAN YOUR COINS! Because, yes, cleaning your coins in any way can obliterate their numismatic value leaving you with nothing more than melt value. But, a lot of the coins I get here in AZ have already been nearly obliterated after having rolled around in our sandy, salty soil at extreme temps for decades. Some times you just want to have a bit of fun cleaning your coin. Most people would probably agree that if the coin is of little or low value, then it doesn't really matter what you do with it. (If it's a valuable coin and you wiped the dirt off the face to see the year and mint mark, you probably just bricked it, anyway.) Just like some people here love that green patina, you might like it looking as close to original, if possible. A year ago, I dug up a 1900 IHP with so much corrosion that not only would no one else have ever bought it, I didn't want to keep it that ugly, either. One way to remove bronze disease is to soak your coin in a sodium sequicarbonate solution. You can make this by dissolving roughly equal parts sodium carbonate (washing soda) and sodium bicarbonate (baking soda) into filtered water. If it's really bad, it can take several treatments with toothbrushing and soaking to remove all the crust. One nice thing about this method is that it can save the color of your patina. However, if the bronze disease is severe, it will remove it right down to bare metal. In that case, you might have to repatinate the exposed areas with a sulfur compound. Once you're done removing the bronze disease, you have to remove left over traces of water or it will happen, again. You can do this by soaking it in acetone. Afterwards, seal it with microcrystalline wax (e.g. Renaissance Wax). Again, just be wary that if you do this a lot of purists might start seeing red. Nonetheless, I've found restoring coins to be a fun part of the hobby that melds both art and science to a pleasing degree of personal satisfaction. Here is a resource I really like. http://www.metaldetectingworld.com/cleaning_preservation_coin.shtml. Good luck!
  4. Interesting... I hadn't considered that some iron compounds might not sway the detector. I was thinking that most iron compounds had some (varying) degrees of magnetic susceptibility. Perhaps not. However, one particular clip from that excellent Fisher reference you cited said something that made me wonder, again, if elemental iron is a problem. Here's it is: I appreciate Steve's comment that localized variations can be dramatic and multifactorial. Now, I'm back to wondering if that map reveals any generic trend in detecting difficulty.
  5. I believe initially, they were having people ship their entire detectors in. Later on, they were just shipping particular parts of the shaft. It sounds like some people have had luck with the replacement.
  6. That’s a great idea. If mine wears through the tape over the tab, I may try the same. Nice variation.
  7. Why did you have to post this? Now I have to start digging 19s and 20s, again.
  8. My 800 had the loose shaft wobble problem. Minelab originally replaced the piece of shaft that was loose. This worked for about a year. Now it’s loose, again. Here’s a similar fix that I’ve done using a piece of high temperature duct tape. Cut a small piece just slightly narrower than the diameter of the tube and long enough to cover the inner surface of the locking pressure tab. Insert using a toothpick. Press flat with finger. The piece of duct tape is thicker and more durable than electrical tape. The high temperature adhesive should be more resistant to smearing or sliding. We shall see!
  9. https://www.minelab.com/usa/community/treasure-talk/a-crash-course-in-everything-coils While there is nothing revelatory written here, does anyone else find it interesting to see them posting this topic at this time? With all of the recent aftermarket coil discussions filling these forums for both the SDC and GPZ, it makes one wonder if they are just trying to be relevant or have a plan to change things up. It’s speculation. But, the timing is interesting. It must be uncomfortable seeing another company modify your product for a profit. There’s also probably a good reason they haven’t released alternative coil options to date. Hopefully, nothing of lower quality gets released in haste.
  10. I haven’t even looked at the GP Extreme. I’ll have to read up on it. Thanks for the tip.
  11. Funny you mentioned that. I messaged that seller and asked him if he was selling it for so low because it was counterfeit. He never responded. ?
  12. Thanks for the response. I’ve been wondering how Arizona compares to elsewhere. We don't have crazy red dirt all over here like I see in some photos of Australia, but it seems we have a lot of hot rocks. Anybody here with experience in Arizona vs. other states?
  13. Thanks. I did some minor cleaning to the Barber. The Franklin and the Mercury didn't need anything!
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