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  1. I know there were a few greats in this field a while back Reg being one of them (RIP). But im looking for any info in the whites TDI mods and mabye some instructions. I have a big box I know a bit about the batery but more information would be appreciated. I really would like the stability mod or any others that you could give me. Thanks
  2. Hello everyone — sorry I haven’t posted anything in the past when I originally signed up years ago. Maybe I did cannot remember. Unfortunately I have been fighting pancreatic & liver cancer for awhile, but I did have the Whipple procedure and it looks like the docs got it. I am in recovery mode now. They say I am part of a 1 percent club. Just started detecting again and trying to get back into swing of things with the forums n such. I will say it is great to detect again. Very glad to see everyone is keeping the TDI mods alive. I know Jim in Idaho — of course I haven’t talked to him in awhile unfortunately. I mainly use my TDI SL’s on the beach’s here in Florida (have 3). So if anyone is interested in performance of the machine with mods on the beaches just ask. The mods are not just for the prospecting side. If you have thought about the mods and haven’t done them — do them! They are not that hard to do on the SL. I might even have some extra matched caps if people can’t find what they need. I hope everyone is doing well in this crazy world and looking forward to posting. R/PI-Man (Gary)
  3. A year full of distractions, so yes I kind of did forget about this project. All parts had been ordered and arrived in good time. Assembly to follow in the next few days... with photographs and a performance test on the modified Pro I still have.. I'll take it steady and do it right, get the soldering tidy and follow the plan..
  4. A couple of recent posts referred to the whites TDI – so I thought I'd pass along the following. Last week I purchased a secondhand TDI from a guy who had sent it in to have Reg Sniff's noise reduction mod done - along with replacement of the op-amp. I had a TDI previously and the difference between that one and this one is like night and day. My old one had a warbly threshold that drove me nuts and made it very difficult to use the sensitivity higher than about 2/3 of full. My house is EMI hell, the neighborhood has underground utility service and the transformers sit on the ground. Even mildmannered VLF's like Whites Classics go nuts here at full sensitivity. This TDI has a silky smooth threshold with just an occasional blip at full sensitivity (12). It also air tests 17" on a nickle with the standard 12" DP coil! That's 4" more than I ever got with my old TDI here at the house with the same coil. I have been playing with the silver coin hunter trick with the high conductor mode selected and the GB offset to kill all ferrous. It really works - with the GB on 4, I hear no iron - and a quarter that I buried down 8" about 5 years ago gets a good signal with 2-3" air gap even using a 10" elliptical Coiltec mono. Now I need to find a dead Bigfoot coil and build a mono PI "Bigfoot". The mods were $125. Reg could probably furnish current details.
  5. Hi, there. I was using my TDI BH for almost two years now. It worked great till the las week then I noticed an important sensitivity drop. In other words, the detector switches on and work as usual, but no matter what I do, I am getting less depth on my targets. Just to give you some numbers. My test target is a nickel coin which I was detecting from 27 cm a least (10us, gain full, gb off). Now, under the same conditions I can detect the same coin at 10-12 cm only. It is not the matter of the battery, as I have tested it with different batteries I have laying around. The TDI have a couple if weeks warranty left, but I have some doubts about my dealer's possibilities. On top of that the type of the fail is rare. Looks like the detector work as it should if not the lower detecting depth. For the person who is not familiar with TDI BH, this type of defect could be not so obvious. Any ideas what could be the reason? Thanks.
  6. Hi, so... i bought a secondhand whites spp, i'm still waiting for it to arrive at my house. i was looking to buy a extra coil. i have got a xp deus 2, and i'm looking for a deeper detector, the dream was minelab gpx, but too expensive... I read some reviews of this machine, and it seemed like a good choice. i'm from europe, so almost every coil that I read were good, I just can't find them here in Europe. i have two options, or a minelab coil, or a detech coil. i was looking at the detech coils, and i found this "DETECH 18" MONOLOOP CLOSED DESIGN SEARCH COIL FOR MINELAB GPX, GP, SD SERIES GOLD DETECTORS WITH COIL COVER PROTECTOR INCLUDED", so... will this coil work great at this detector? have anyone tried it? is it stable? this coil is compatible with "This Detech 18″ Monoloop Closed Design Search Coil for is for use with Minelab GPX, GP, SD and White's TDI/TDI Pro/TDI SL Series Metal Detectors." so... is this coil a good option? or which coil do you recomend between detech or minelab compatible with this detector? thanks
  7. Hello, I'm new to this site, so bear with me if this question has been beat to death. I have a TDI Beach Hunter and I want to upgrade the battery pack, since the Whites packs are more or less extinct now. I was hoping to use the 3.7 V batteries (X3), but with how many mAh? I want to find one of these as well (see picture). Thank you very much! and happy hunting!
  8. Hi I have a question regarding all the talk regarding ramping up the amps volts etc on the tdi sl wouldn't good batteries like 8 x energizer lithium batteries add up to 14 volts rather than trying to squeeze an extra battery in there or striping the guts out of the battery pack to put in 4 18500? What about 4 x 14500 which for memory are the same width maybe a tad longer they add up to 15 volts plus I'm not sure any thoughts
  9. Have been reading past treads from Steve H., Reg Snift, and others concerning modification that could be added to the TDI, TDI PRO, and TDI SL. One was a Li ion battery pack to up the voltage. I can do that. Another was to change a couple caps (c20 and c21) to .22 mf and change a couple op amps. Sounded like Reg would do some for a price. Then sounded like Reid Mann in Virginia would do them. Then the VP from Whites came on the forum asking for feedback. I forget his name but think he just retired , anyway, his final answer sounded like he would have this mod. incorporated into the new TDI SL future production. This was a year or two back. Now my question, Do you know if this mod. has been installed in the new TDI SL that fedex is supposed to deliver to me tomorrow? If not since I'm a retired electronic tech. I could install myself if Reg had given a little more information. If no one has or are willing to give out, do you know anyone that installs the mod. for a price? Thanks, Joe
  10. Hi I'm looking to see if anyone still mods TDIs I have a original big box model I was wondering if I could get some instruction links so I could do it myself becuse it's probably hard to find someone that mods them now a day.
  11. Hi, Having recovered a Whites TDI motherboard (not SL) and having a coil. I would like to reconnect it with potentiometers and switches. Does anyone have photos showing the wiring/colors of the switches and potentiometers on the plate and the values/types of the potentiometers (B100k etc.) and switches? Thanks. David
  12. I'm curious as to the history of production and sale of the various TDI models. I know the original was called "Pulse Scan TDI" and had the large control box. Eventually that was replaced with the TDI Pro (also with large box). The SL came after the original (but after the Pro??) and its offspring were housed in a smaller, lighter housing but also used less battery power and thus didn't punch as deep. How long was each in production/distribution? And if you care to go even further, what were the prices? I think both big box units retailed ~$1600 initially and the SL more like $1300 when released, but those prices evolved. Also, did White's have MAP prices on these that differed from retail?
  13. I bought Snakejim's White's Sierra Pulse Pro from the classifieds and got it this afternoon. It was a great deal and the detector is in fantastic shape and works great. I owned a beige special edition TDI SL for a while and didn't care much for it. Somehow, (maybe it's me) the SPP with the Miner Johns folded Mono 9X5 and the little Super 150 are hitting targets that my TDI SL couldn't hit even after doing a battery mod and I was using a NF Sadie on it most of the time. It's a head scratcher. This SPP is hitting small gold and lead targets that Deus 2 can't hit!!!! I mean, hitting a .1 gram nugget at 2" depth and a .25 gram nugget at 3" in bad dirt is great in my book on just default settings for a simple detector like this. Sure it is not as sensitive as many hot detectors like the SDC 2300 and GPX 6000, but it's turn on and go and this one anyway runs very quietly at the default settings and only gets an EMI warble when I turn the gain up past default. So far it is way better and more stable and easier to get running than the QED I had for awhile. It is super lightweight, EMI resistant enough to use in my backyard and is screaming on 6" deep coin sized targets that most detector miss in my test garden. This should be a really hot relic detector and a backup PI for the Axiom when it is released. Thanks Jim for offering it through DP Classifieds.
  14. I see so many people wanting to up the voltage. I know by doing so also improves sensitivity and overall performance. Maybe someone can tell me why didn’t White’s do the same. My thinking is less load on the electronics makes the detector last longer. At the same time the detector will have a better chance of making it through the warranty . Here’s another can of worms I’ve opened up. Chuck
  15. Well, thanks to forum member YubaJ I just ended up with a very slightly used White's Sierra Pulse Pro, or as it is more commonly referred to, the White's SPP. Bonus is it came with three coils, the standard 12" round mono, a 6" round mono that was part of an introductory special when they first came out, and a 5" x 9" Miner John folded mono coil. The Sierra Pulse Pro is nothing more than a White's TDI SL with the Conductivity switch and Pulse Delay knob both removed. The unit is locked into the hottest 10uS pulse delay. It is a limited availability machine only available from west coast dealers and in Australia. The whole story on how it came about is kind of interesting and detailed in my original thread on the machine from May 2014 at http://www.detectorprospector.com/forum/topic/213-whites-sierra-pulse-pro-whites-spp/ Now you may ask, why did I get this detector? There is a story there also. My first detector was a White's Coinmaster IV that I purchased in 1972. My first detector dealership was for White's in 1976, and I have had good success using many of their detectors. I currently have a White's V3i with Bigfoot coil that is my jewelry machine for large parks and sports fields. Bottom line is White's and I go way back. Whether I intend to use them myself or not I like spreading the word about on new models others might be interested in, so I perked up when the SPP was announced. I was more than anything just excited to see a ground balancing pulse induction machine introduced for under a grand, plus I always liked the ultra light weight of the previous TDI SL model. So I really was kind of pumped up to get one and posted on a few forums about it. Now, I used to hang out a lot on the White's Electronics forum at http://forums.whiteselectronics.com/ to just offer some free help and support as one of the only people there that seemed to know much about the White's GMT and TDI models. I made a post there identical to the one on this forum at the link above, and I get this message from the moderator: "Had to remove the Pic and "Sierra" name from the title of your post. The SPP is a Jimmy Sierra product, and as such isn't allowed to be "advertised" or "plugged" on the open forum." I posted again, something along the lines of "WTF it is made by White's and is sold by White's dealers but because it says "Sierra" in the actual name of the product I am being censored?". I got another message saying my "rant" had been deleted and the issue forwarded to the admin. That was it for me - I banned myself and have not participated there since. Jimmy Sierra later contacted me to apologize and he did set things straight with the people at the forum but water under the bridge by then. Just another example of the strange and convoluted politics at White's Electronics. I had been all fired up to get the SPP but just put the whole idea aside at that point. Yet down inside I still wanted one. So when by pure chance I saw this SPP for sale at a good price I pounced, purely as an impulse buy. I have no real use for the machine and will probably sell it but I want to play around with it a bit. The main thing about the White's TDI SL and the SPP is they are crazy light weight. The machine weighs about 3.5 lbs with the 12" coil and right at a perfectly balanced 3 lbs with the smaller coils. This is what the Garrett ATX or Minelab SDC 2300 could have been and should be packaged like. After swinging a GPZ 7000 all summer the SPP feels like a feather! Now, the TDI SL and SPP models are not high power pulse units and like the Garrett Infinium they really do not do any better in low mineral ground than a good VLF detector. However, as ground mineralization and hot rocks get worse there is a crossover point where the problems these conditions cause on a VLF (loss of depth, false signals) can be overcome by using a ground balancing pulse induction (GBPI) detector. Something many people do not understand is that by adding a ground balancing circuit to a PI some depth is lost in an absolute sense, and this is very easily illustrated with the TDI/SPP models in air tests by just turning the ground balance off. The machine gains quite a bit of extra punch, and a nice thing about the White's GBPI models is they have this ability to be run in pure PI mode in low mineral ground. In particular this makes the original TDI and TDI Pro models some of the best beach PI detectors you can get your hands on. In the case of the TDI SL and SPP however running the machines with ground balance off is almost the same as running a good VLF in all metal mode. The only difference is you do get the ability inherent in all PI detectors to ignore some ground conditions due to the pulse delay and how it works. See Understanding the PI Metal Detector by Reg Sniff for details. More about the SPP versus the TDI SL. The SL comes with what White's calls a Dual Field coil, which is basically a small mono running inside a large mono. The coils look like doughnuts, the outer rim being the large coil, and the inner circle being a smaller mono coil, both running at the same time. The theory is the depth of a large coil with the small gold sensitivity of a small coil, all at the same time. The problem was these coils were a bit too hot for Australia, and so the SPP coils are just regular mono coils. Easy to confuse also because a 12" Dual Field looks identical to the regular 12" mono. My unit has both the 12" mono and a 6" round mono that was part of an introductory special (now over). The SPP was a killer deal at introduction with two coils for $999.95. It is now being advertised new with a single 12" coil for $999.95 but is being offered by at least one dealer for $899.95 with the single coil. I really like the little 5" x 9" folded mono coil and scuff cover that came with my unit. What is a folded mono you ask? Something Reg Sniff came up with, details at Link deleted since Findmall Forum update broke all old links Basically his answer to the White's Dual Field, which was patented. Miner John sells these for $199 at http://razorbackcoils.webs.com/apps/webstore/products/show/6277891 and it is probably one of the best coils you can get for a TDI to hunt gold. Finally, the SPP is interesting because it really is a TDI SL under the hood. The plug in connections for the Conductivity switch and Pulse Delay control knob are still on the circuit board, and the SPP can be upgraded back into a TDI SL for just a few dollars in parts. Here is a thread on adding the Conductivity switch back in at https://www.prospectingaustralia.com.au/forum/viewtopic.php?id=13934 You can see the little white plastic sockets on the control board picture below marked conductivity and pulse delay. Anyway, just got this and no time yet to do more than take pictures and post but when I get time more will be forthcoming.
  16. There seems to be much interest still on the TDI-SL mods that our friend Reginald Sniff made. I often find old emails in my junk box from people trying to get the mods. I apologize for not replying as I find them late and often busy with day chores. I will share what I still have left from my conversations with Reg many years ago. Most were over the phone as he had difficulty typing on the keyboard. I took notes and why I have the last picture with a summary of the three mods. Correspondence Reg, Thanks for the picture. I do have a few questions regarding my early model SL. 1- you had mentioned in another thread about doing something also with D20 and D21. We spoke only on changing C20, C21 and removing C56. What is the purpose of the D20,21 Mod? 2- Are C20,21 Polarized? what is the direction of flow ? ( thinking about building a board with a toggle switch to change from OEM to modified.} just in case the mod has an effect on my using my BIG coil. 3. If I did a board would the cables running from the capacitor board to the detector board need to be shielded? I just ordered the Reidman battery. Thanks Gilbert EMAIL sent by Reg in response: I mentioned mods added in 2015 to the SL to correct a problem in Australia. The mods to correct that problem included D20 and D21.. The D20 and D21 were part of that mod as was C56. You can remove D20 and short out D21 with a simple jumper to complete the Aussie mods. This will smooth out the ground balancing a little. If you use the proper caps, C20 and C21 are not polarized. Do not use polarized caps. I don't recommend a board to be added. Just tweak the Delay a little if the cap mod increases the sensitivity too much. On the latest pic I sent you, you will see an arrow pointing to C42. Adding a jumper across this cap will increase the gain and make very weak signals more reliable. Adding a jumper is easy. Simply look for two test points TP2 and TP31. They are near C42. Simply add a jumper from one test point to the other jumpers C42 and takes care of the problem. C42 and R75 are a high pass filter that isn't needed and causes problems. Eric added them when he had a drift problem and thought they would help. The drift was coming from some place else he later found out. Reg ( caps being removed are C20 &21, .47uf and will be replaced with .22uf. Use 50v Panasonic, or Rubicon Stacked Metal Film Polyester type ) from another post by Reg Picture sent by Reg My Summary of all three TDI-SL REG mods Gilbert
  17. this machine is new have used it for about a month never droped it or abused it , this is what is happeneing when i turn it on ,it starts overloading and moaning but only in the All or high position if i turn to low its a quite as a mouse turn it to all and it starts moaning and will not stop , any ideas?
  18. The passing of a friend unfortunately has led to me taking ownership of a modified Tdi Pro. My machine is mounted on an Anderson shaft and is factory spec. My old mate had his machine modified to smooth out the threshold and to add some sensitivity. The specifics related to the modifications are not known by me, other than that they were conducted by 'Luke'..Oz Digger.. This happened some time ago. So the modified machine is probably not a keeper, I don't want two Tdi Pro machines.. The opportunity to do a comparison cannot and should not be ignored. My intention is to focus on small gold performance, the threshold smoothness, the ability to use gain, basic performance and handling characteristics under different circumstances. The machines will use the same fully charged battery pack, same coil, same targets, same test location and conditions on the same day etc. Trying to minimise external variations. I'll start with the usual useless air test. Later I'll follow up with in ground testing on the actual goldfields in mineralized soil. Test coils will be with a small coil and a large coil. Targets will be gold only. The 1 grain ingot, the half gram gold coin, a half sovereign gold coin. Some real small sub gram nuggets to see how small we can go.. There is a process involved so I'll take my time and do it right. Any specific questions or suggestions, speak now or forever hold you peace.. I'm only doing this once. Once it sold it will be too late to revisit.. All the best.
  19. I am a frequent beach hunter of S. CA beaches and have found over the last couple of years that almost all hunters are using Equinox 800's. Not like the old days where you would see Fishers, Whites, a random Garrett and even a Tesoro on occasion. Which leads me to the reason for my post. My go to machine on the beach is an Equinox 800 with a 15" coil. It is rock solid, gets great depth and has rewarded me with a lot of nice3 finds. However, I also have a TDI Beach Hunter. Now before I stir up all of the PI guys who will insist that a PI will go deeper than an Equinox, I'm not going in that direction. What I am curious about is the deeper targets vs. more trash targets aspect of using one machine vs. the other. My own personal experience has been that when I have used my TDI Beach Hunter, and the competition is using Equinox 800's, I am always low man when it comes to good finds. While I may be getting better depth, the amount of junk I have to dig (rusty hairpins in particular) slows me down in terms of coverage while the Equinox guys are covering a lot more area and finding more good stuff. Have any of you had a similar experience and if so, when can you justify using the TDI Beach Hunter (or a different PI for that matter) instead of the Equinox 800? Bill (S. CA)
  20. Is there anything that you can share on the details of getting the 16 volt battery configuration to fit in the TDI BH? I have one that I just bought, and I have heard that I can pickup a few inches of detecting depth with the 14.8v vs. 12 v stock config, and maybe even more depth with the 16v config. I would appreciate any details on whether you saw any harm to the electronics with this extra, applied battery voltage or not, the benefits of the higher voltages, and the needed case mods to make it fit? Thanks kindly. Brittany.
  21. I know that most of you guys are not using TDIBH for underwater hunt. TDI is actually horrible for this task 'couse it floats. Youare really suffer to hold it under water.... Horrible, you have to spent a lot of energy to sink down the detector. Somebody uses the coil weight, but in my opinion it is not so good solution as it provokes extra wear on the washers and makes the coil not so hydrodynamic.... My solution is to use lead shots in the 3d printed plastic case as a weight. It works great. The weight is just clipped on the shaft and that's it. No modifications whatsoever are needed. If you hunt on the dry send, just take a weight off. Here are some pictures:
  22. Hello guys, I finally signed up to this excellent forum, I had been reading it for some time and with the excuse of having bought a TDI SL I signed up to interact with you .... I get to the point, I live in Sicily, at the foot of the volcano Etna, i search more in beach, my beaches many times are very mineralized and with the presence of black sand and black stones.I bought the tdi sl for this to be able to go deeper where the vlf stop, and because I am a fan of white's quality (in my fleet I also have a v3i and I had mxt pro) I currently have two plates, the standard 12 dual field and the coiltek mono 14 "TDI series specific. I generally go hunting for coins and jewels, use the tdi with a 12.6 volt lithium battery, and do some tests by burying an 18k gold ring at 30 cm (+/- 12 ") Gain at max, delay at 10 us, threshold barely audible not annoying, gb on at 7.5, conductivity position all, is the limit for this ring. I tested it with gb off and it hears very well. By mounting the 14 "coiltek things change, with gb on, battery full, same settings as above, at 30 it detects it well. I tried to bury the ring at 41 cm (+/- 14 ") and I discovered a strange operation, if I correctly balance the tdi at about 7.5 the ring does not feel it, if I overbalance the ring at 8.5 I feel very good at 41 cm and I can even raise the plate by another 6-8 cm still feeling good. Is this behavior normal? the problem is that by overbalancing then I cannot search on the beach because the false balance signals return to me. The same thing happens by underbalancing, putting the balance to the minimum (gb at 2 or 3) the ring is heard well. If underbalance it gives it to me with a high tone and therefore low conductivity, if overbalance it gives it to me with a low tone therefore with high conductivity. also does with the standard 12 plate I therefore noticed that there is a balance range that cuts the ring, but I want to point out that it only happens when the ring is at great depths, doing the test with the ring resting only on the sand and buried a little deep, this cut is not heard, and going the gb the only thing I notice that at gb 5.5 is the limit of how the ring sounds, from gb 1 to 5.5 it sounds high-pitched, from gb 5.6 to massimo plays it in a low tone. so I wanted to understand if when the ring is at a high depth and is cut it is normal or not since overbalancing or underbalancing it can be heard, while with the correct gb it is not! the metal is as new it is from 2020. I only have the doubt that at high depth the ring is exchanged with the same level of ground balance and therefore cuts it to me even if it actually feels it. The Problem that I can't walk on the beach over-balanced, it's impossible, so when I balance correctly now I always have the doubt that I will lose rings in depth ...... I have read Steve's guides, I hope he can answer too .... . soon I will make another 16.8 volt lithium pack, I wonder if the problem will recur ... I apologize for the long topic but I had to explain everything correctly goodbye and thank you from the land of oranges and lava Salvo
  23. I came across a french prospecting website where some interesting mods had been done to their White's TDI SLs.... for instance: 1. Removal of resistor R86 within the gain circuit - providing a boost to the gain control. They believe this was to make it stable, for less complaints. Removal of this resistor provided additional gain reserve. They had some good results with their testing. 2. Placing thick o-rings under some of the pot knobs. Helps to add some friction and avoid dials turning themselves accidentally, especially with the above modification. 3. With a single +16V battery pack, there was feedback that depth seemed to increase on the TDI SL. However, this came at a cost of over-driving the 16V rated power capacitors as well as other circuits on the board. Potentially shortening their life, by running them full time. The moderator seems to have been able to add another battery pack in series (6V) with the 12V pack, and use a toggle switch to drive the voltage above 18V temporarily. This "boost mode" was done as a method of improving a faint signal on-the-fly. Just a flick of a switch, double-check that faint signal, and then back off. Ultimately, it seems they were discussing driving the coil with it's own 18V external battery and using the standard 12V battery pack to drive the rest of the board (logic). Basically driving the pulses in the coil without going through the voltage regulator, via a large MOSFET. Unsure if they actually were able to do this mod. Anyways, just thought they were some interesting ideas those french detectorists were messing with.
  24. I want to make a mono search coil for tdi sl. Can you help with the search coil values?
  25. Hi, Is there a modification to have on the TDI Beach Hunter the same "Target Conductivity" switch as on the TDI Pro / TDI SL ? Ie all sounds, or just "High Conductor" or just "Low Conductor"? I had a TDI SL and I might buy a used TDI Beach. Thanks.
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