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  1. There seems to be much interest still on the TDI-SL mods that our friend Reginald Sniff made. I often find old emails in my junk box from people trying to get the mods. I apologize for not replying as I find them late and often busy with day chores. I will share what I still have left from my conversations with Reg many years ago. Most were over the phone as he had difficulty typing on the keyboard. I took notes and why I have the last picture with a summary of the three mods. Correspondence Reg, Thanks for the picture. I do have a few questions regarding my early model SL. 1- you had mentioned in another thread about doing something also with D20 and D21. We spoke only on changing C20, C21 and removing C56. What is the purpose of the D20,21 Mod? 2- Are C20,21 Polarized? what is the direction of flow ? ( thinking about building a board with a toggle switch to change from OEM to modified.} just in case the mod has an effect on my using my BIG coil. 3. If I did a board would the cables running from the capacitor board to the detector board need to be shielded? I just ordered the Reidman battery. Thanks Gilbert EMAIL sent by Reg in response: I mentioned mods added in 2015 to the SL to correct a problem in Australia. The mods to correct that problem included D20 and D21.. The D20 and D21 were part of that mod as was C56. You can remove D20 and short out D21 with a simple jumper to complete the Aussie mods. This will smooth out the ground balancing a little. If you use the proper caps, C20 and C21 are not polarized. Do not use polarized caps. I don't recommend a board to be added. Just tweak the Delay a little if the cap mod increases the sensitivity too much. On the latest pic I sent you, you will see an arrow pointing to C42. Adding a jumper across this cap will increase the gain and make very weak signals more reliable. Adding a jumper is easy. Simply look for two test points TP2 and TP31. They are near C42. Simply add a jumper from one test point to the other jumpers C42 and takes care of the problem. C42 and R75 are a high pass filter that isn't needed and causes problems. Eric added them when he had a drift problem and thought they would help. The drift was coming from some place else he later found out. Reg ( caps being removed are C20 &21, .47uf and will be replaced with .22uf. Use 50v Panasonic, or Rubicon Stacked Metal Film Polyester type ) from another post by Reg Picture sent by Reg My Summary of all three TDI-SL REG mods Gilbert
  2. I am a frequent beach hunter of S. CA beaches and have found over the last couple of years that almost all hunters are using Equinox 800's. Not like the old days where you would see Fishers, Whites, a random Garrett and even a Tesoro on occasion. Which leads me to the reason for my post. My go to machine on the beach is an Equinox 800 with a 15" coil. It is rock solid, gets great depth and has rewarded me with a lot of nice3 finds. However, I also have a TDI Beach Hunter. Now before I stir up all of the PI guys who will insist that a PI will go deeper than an Equinox, I'm not going in that direction. What I am curious about is the deeper targets vs. more trash targets aspect of using one machine vs. the other. My own personal experience has been that when I have used my TDI Beach Hunter, and the competition is using Equinox 800's, I am always low man when it comes to good finds. While I may be getting better depth, the amount of junk I have to dig (rusty hairpins in particular) slows me down in terms of coverage while the Equinox guys are covering a lot more area and finding more good stuff. Have any of you had a similar experience and if so, when can you justify using the TDI Beach Hunter (or a different PI for that matter) instead of the Equinox 800? Bill (S. CA)
  3. Is there anything that you can share on the details of getting the 16 volt battery configuration to fit in the TDI BH? I have one that I just bought, and I have heard that I can pickup a few inches of detecting depth with the 14.8v vs. 12 v stock config, and maybe even more depth with the 16v config. I would appreciate any details on whether you saw any harm to the electronics with this extra, applied battery voltage or not, the benefits of the higher voltages, and the needed case mods to make it fit? Thanks kindly. Brittany.
  4. I know that most of you guys are not using TDIBH for underwater hunt. TDI is actually horrible for this task 'couse it floats. Youare really suffer to hold it under water.... Horrible, you have to spent a lot of energy to sink down the detector. Somebody uses the coil weight, but in my opinion it is not so good solution as it provokes extra wear on the washers and makes the coil not so hydrodynamic.... My solution is to use lead shots in the 3d printed plastic case as a weight. It works great. The weight is just clipped on the shaft and that's it. No modifications whatsoever are needed. If you hunt on the dry send, just take a weight off. Here are some pictures:
  5. Hello guys, I finally signed up to this excellent forum, I had been reading it for some time and with the excuse of having bought a TDI SL I signed up to interact with you .... I get to the point, I live in Sicily, at the foot of the volcano Etna, i search more in beach, my beaches many times are very mineralized and with the presence of black sand and black stones.I bought the tdi sl for this to be able to go deeper where the vlf stop, and because I am a fan of white's quality (in my fleet I also have a v3i and I had mxt pro) I currently have two plates, the standard 12 dual field and the coiltek mono 14 "TDI series specific. I generally go hunting for coins and jewels, use the tdi with a 12.6 volt lithium battery, and do some tests by burying an 18k gold ring at 30 cm (+/- 12 ") Gain at max, delay at 10 us, threshold barely audible not annoying, gb on at 7.5, conductivity position all, is the limit for this ring. I tested it with gb off and it hears very well. By mounting the 14 "coiltek things change, with gb on, battery full, same settings as above, at 30 it detects it well. I tried to bury the ring at 41 cm (+/- 14 ") and I discovered a strange operation, if I correctly balance the tdi at about 7.5 the ring does not feel it, if I overbalance the ring at 8.5 I feel very good at 41 cm and I can even raise the plate by another 6-8 cm still feeling good. Is this behavior normal? the problem is that by overbalancing then I cannot search on the beach because the false balance signals return to me. The same thing happens by underbalancing, putting the balance to the minimum (gb at 2 or 3) the ring is heard well. If underbalance it gives it to me with a high tone and therefore low conductivity, if overbalance it gives it to me with a low tone therefore with high conductivity. also does with the standard 12 plate I therefore noticed that there is a balance range that cuts the ring, but I want to point out that it only happens when the ring is at great depths, doing the test with the ring resting only on the sand and buried a little deep, this cut is not heard, and going the gb the only thing I notice that at gb 5.5 is the limit of how the ring sounds, from gb 1 to 5.5 it sounds high-pitched, from gb 5.6 to massimo plays it in a low tone. so I wanted to understand if when the ring is at a high depth and is cut it is normal or not since overbalancing or underbalancing it can be heard, while with the correct gb it is not! the metal is as new it is from 2020. I only have the doubt that at high depth the ring is exchanged with the same level of ground balance and therefore cuts it to me even if it actually feels it. The Problem that I can't walk on the beach over-balanced, it's impossible, so when I balance correctly now I always have the doubt that I will lose rings in depth ...... I have read Steve's guides, I hope he can answer too .... . soon I will make another 16.8 volt lithium pack, I wonder if the problem will recur ... I apologize for the long topic but I had to explain everything correctly goodbye and thank you from the land of oranges and lava Salvo
  6. I came across a french prospecting website where some interesting mods had been done to their White's TDI SLs.... for instance: 1. Removal of resistor R86 within the gain circuit - providing a boost to the gain control. They believe this was to make it stable, for less complaints. Removal of this resistor provided additional gain reserve. They had some good results with their testing. 2. Placing thick o-rings under some of the pot knobs. Helps to add some friction and avoid dials turning themselves accidentally, especially with the above modification. 3. With a single +16V battery pack, there was feedback that depth seemed to increase on the TDI SL. However, this came at a cost of over-driving the 16V rated power capacitors as well as other circuits on the board. Potentially shortening their life, by running them full time. The moderator seems to have been able to add another battery pack in series (6V) with the 12V pack, and use a toggle switch to drive the voltage above 18V temporarily. This "boost mode" was done as a method of improving a faint signal on-the-fly. Just a flick of a switch, double-check that faint signal, and then back off. Ultimately, it seems they were discussing driving the coil with it's own 18V external battery and using the standard 12V battery pack to drive the rest of the board (logic). Basically driving the pulses in the coil without going through the voltage regulator, via a large MOSFET. Unsure if they actually were able to do this mod. Anyways, just thought they were some interesting ideas those french detectorists were messing with.
  7. G’day all, can i have the pros and cons on this unit for gold in highly mineralised ground of Aus please? Thanks.
  8. I want to make a mono search coil for tdi sl. Can you help with the search coil values?
  9. Hi, Is there a modification to have on the TDI Beach Hunter the same "Target Conductivity" switch as on the TDI Pro / TDI SL ? Ie all sounds, or just "High Conductor" or just "Low Conductor"? I had a TDI SL and I might buy a used TDI Beach. Thanks.
  10. This maybe a newbie question but, what is the difference in the 12" Dual Field Coils pictured here other than the black and white labels? Is one 1st gen. or 2nd gen. or something else? Thanks, TC-AZ
  11. I just watched this Whites Video with Josh Bohmker. He found a way to take a couple of D-rings similar to those on the old Goldmasters and chest mounted the SL. Very cool!
  12. Curious if Sun Ray or another 3rd party vendor made an inline probe for the TDI? Thanks in advance! Gabe
  13. Hello everyone! I'm new to the forum and have been an on-again, off-again DFX user for the last ten years (family, kids, work, life, yada yada yada). I picked up a used TDI SL special edition. Figured since we moved to Colorado back in 2014 - why not? I had always wanted one and this one came with a few coils and a Li-Ion converted pack. I wanted to ask - I went out to the backyard to give it a run through. Found a few nails scattered through the yard. However, I noticed I could not use any type of ground balance, as the machine would start to 'pulse' in my ear and sometimes increase in intensity like a feedback loop. If I completely turned off ground balance, it wasn't an issue. I came to find out that the closer I was to my service panel, it would increase. This would make sense since the power lines most likely pass underground through my backyard. My question is: are there any concerns with damaging the front-end receiver on the TDI SL? It was rather alarming when I flipped on ground balance. Thanks in advance! Gabe
  14. Does anyone know any information on the new coil for the TDI SL and if the coil will be available separately? TDI SL is now ... TDI Hi-Q A new high performance coil design for added depth - in two options TAN Part Number: 800-0334-Hi-Q CAMO 800-0334-Camo MSRP: $1199.95 MAP: $1099.00
  15. Well I decided the TDIBH was too much of a handful in the water so I decided to move it on to a new owner. Hopefully I’ll not regret the decision but I got what I paid for it so can’t complain too much. One of Whites best for dry and wet sand hunting but never got much market penetration....I guess most want VLFs these days ? Time to change my profile.......just five machines now 😳
  16. Would like some help please on a specific coil for my TDI Pro,i have the option of buying this brand new Coiltek 6'' Mono coil which was of course specifically designed for the GPX range of detector,the GPX Mono coils do work very well on my TDI Pro as i own and use most of them on the TDI. Has anyone specifically used this small 6'' Mono coil i am looking at using it most of the time because i am using smaller coils more and more due to the problems that i am hving with a broken wrist that i had from a bike accident decades ago,does anyone have any thoughts on this combination please.
  17. My first comment regarding discrimination with a ground balancing PI like the TDI and others is that people may be expecting things of the TDI it cannot deliver, and may be better off with a good discriminating VLF detector. If your priority is discrimination, no PI will discriminate like a VLF. There are two ways to tune the TDI. The first and preferred option is to tune the detector for the best depth. On low mineral beaches ground balance "off" usually give the best performance and you generally have to dig all targets. The sensitivity control and pulse delay are set to the desired level of quiet operation. You have to adjust those settings for your conditions. Forcing it by using settings other people use is fruitless. Salt conditions do vary as does mineralization and electrical interference, and the machines themselves vary by a small amount. I notice many people think lower settings will cause lost depth and therefore insist on higher settings, and then complain the machine is unstable. It simply is what it is. Adjust the machine for the conditions. If it does not perform to your satisfaction, use a different detector. You can't make a detector do what it does not want to do. As ground mineralization increases on some beaches, there is a point where using the ground balance “on” gives you more depth. Only with experiments can a person determine which setting gives more depth on your beach - ground balance “on” or ground balance “off”. If you use the ground balance, it BY ACCIDENT creates two audio classes of targets, those above the ground balance setting and those below the ground balance setting. These give either a low tone or a high tone. The resulting two classes of targets have only a little to do with what they are made of, but are based instead on the rate at which eddy currents decay in the target after the transmit pulse shuts off. Size has as much to do with the audio results as composition, just like on a VLF. The pulse delay sets the minimum level for this eddy current cut off or rejection. See Understanding the PI Metal Detector by Reg Sniff. With ground balance “on” you would normally, just like with ground balance “off”, adjust the sensitivity and pulse delay for whatever level produces quiet operation. I usually just put the coil underwater and pump it in the water, and first try lower sensitivity. If that does not remove noise I raise the pulse delay a little and try again. In general I am trying to keep the pulse delay as low as possible and sensitivity as high as possible. Eventually through trial and error I find a combination of sensitivity and pulse delay that eliminates audio results when pumping the coil in saltwater. The ground balance setting is determined by whatever setting gives no audio results when moving the coil up and down over the beach or the bottom when underwater. If basalt cobbles are present they may also need to be included in the ground balance tuning procedure. In extreme cases you may have to lower the sensitivity and pulse delay even more to get a proper quiet ground balance. Again, once you have tuned everything for best performance, you will have a pulse delay setting and ground balance setting that ACCIDENTALLY creates two classes of targets. The only way to see the result is to test various targets. In the U.S. our coins are much more conductive than many European coins and retain eddy currents better, and therefore generally give a low tone while most jewelry will give a high tone. Large ferrous will give a low tone and small ferrous a high tone. Very large rings may give a low tone as will most silver rings. In Europe and other places the tones may vary from what we see with U.S. coins. After experimenting to find out what items give what tones, you have a simple decision. You can dig one tone only, or you can dig the other tone only, or you can dig all targets. The results will be what you have determined by your experiments and if digging only one tone or the other loses items you do not want to lose then you must dig all items. If that is not acceptable, your should be using a VLF detector instead. Now, if you are willing to give up some depth, you can try to purposefully misadjust the ground balance control to move the tone division point. Doing so may switch some items from one tone to the other for a better result as regards discrimination. This however puts the detector out of proper ground balance. In mild ground you can do this easily but in highly mineralized ground the machine will now signal when moved over the beach or the bottom or past hot rocks. The depth is lost as you compensate for this by again reducing the sensitivity or increasing the pulse delay. Again it all is a matter of experimentation. If a desired item that is giving a "wrong" tone can be made to give the opposite tone by misadjusting the ground balance you may benefit from this in milder ground. It may be that the lost depth or audio side effects from being out of ground balance are not be worth it. You have to decide. To sum up, VLF detectors offer the best discrimination but may not get enough depth on mineralized beaches. A PI detector can get more depth, but any discrimination is an accidental byproduct of the ground balance system employed and will not separate targets like a VLF. In general you dig everything with a PI but in some cases you can derive benefits by digging some tones and not others, but you will without a doubt miss some class of good targets by doing this. That is just the way it is. The first ground balancing PI (GBPI) I used for beach detecting was the Garrett Infinium. Next was the TDI and then Garrett ATX. All three have similar tone results, but the TDI has the additional benefit of allowing you to manually set the tone break point via the ground balance setting. I have also used similar tonal separation using Minelab GBPI detectors. I go into more in-depth detail on another post referencing the new Fisher Impulse AQ where I reference all my notes on all these detectors so I am going to link there for further study. The Impulse is basically a refined version of what the TDI is doing, with the ground balance control used first and foremost as a discrimination control, and as with the TDI there will be performance trades depending on the settings employed. Understanding one will help you understand the other. This is a very complex subject for those wanting a simple VLF type discrimination system in a PI detector. They are however two different things, and you have to read and think quite a bit about how a PI detector actually works to get your head around all this. Or at a minimum do lots of experimenting and learn by observation. I have tried my best to explain things, but there is no magic tuning or answers I can provide that will make these machines do what people seem to want them to do - act like a VLF. They are not. If they do not discriminate the way you want I have no settings that will make it happen other than what I have tried to explain already. This is kind of a summary and along with all the other posts is really about all I can offer or have to say on the subject. I hope it helps! Fisher Impulse AQ Discrimination Explanation Where Will The Holes Be In The Fisher Impulse System White's TDI SL Owners Manual White's TDI Beachhunter Owners Manual White's TDI Pro Owners Guide Steve's White's TDI Review
  18. I am still need to metal detecting and learning an original tdi. So lately I have been experimenting with the different controls and how they affect the machine. I read some instructions that mentioned running the gain at the point that the threshold remained steady and did not waiver. This typically leaves me with a gain of 3 or 4. Does this sound right or am I missing something?
  19. As I mentioned some days ago, I was afraid to have a non waterproof control box after minor works on the coil's cable and the PCB inside. The final result of this morning Is been: lot of unstable treshold drift since a few minutes inside the water(no way to calm down the treshold even with GB off). Some minor short cause I can see the voltmeter crashed and fuc...d up... After almost two hours of terrible noise and a few real signals, nothing to Say but a finally stable treshold without signals at all when targets were under or over the coil... This means to me:the coil isn't working anymore... Maybe the dumping resistor? Maybe the lower resistance due to the cable shortening? Nope....The gasket leakage and maybe the connector too. I don't even have the time to dismantle again today..🤬🤬🤬🤬 Pissed as usual Skull
  20. I've been experiencing lower yields due to sites being detected, by me for sure and there are also signs by others previously. SchoolofHardNox's success on a beach using the Minelab GPX 5000 reminded me to re-read Steve's treatise on using the (in his case original big box Pulsescan) TDI for coin detecting. I just a few days ago stumbled upon a promising site where extra depth could be key. It's a schoolyard going back at least to 1955. Unfortunately as is the case in many of my public sites, it has a history of backfilling. From aerial photos I see than in the 50's it was grass/sod covered but in the early 60's they put down gravel. The person who told me about the site (a person who walked up to talk when he saw me hunting a nearby park) said he was a student there 45-50 years ago and at that time it was (again) grass/sod. I did a one hour survey hunt with the Minelab Equinox (11" coil) and encountered a couple inch thick gravel layer about 5" down. I did find one Wheatie below the gravel, but 7" is getting deep for my detector + soil mineralization combination so if coins remain from the 50's (pre- gravel layering) then I expect I will do better with extra depth (and that may even be required). One thing I've found in my detecting of these older sites -- there are always nails present. So even if my TDI/SPP can deliver in the coin category it's going to be signalling on a lot of nails. One of the tricks Steve used was to set the conductivity switch to high conductors (low tones) but the TDI/SPP doesn't have that feature -- I will be hearing both high and low tones. This is a dual disadvantage -- extra tones to have to mentally tune out but also extra threshold noise since both parts of the signal spectrum will be contributing to that as compared to only half when the conductivity-low switch selection is made (on all TDI's except the SPP version). Here are some specific concerns: 1) Am I fooling myself thinking I can get extra depth with the TDI/SPP, particularly when it comes at the expense of a noisier threshold? 2) Which coil(s) should I be using (choices I'm considering are 6"x8" Nugget Finder Sadie mono, 7"x14" NF mono, and 12" round White's 'Aussie' mono)? 3) Should I flag the promising targets but double check with the Eqx 800 (and if so, should I use the 11" or 12"x15" coil on the 800)? (Note, even if I choose this route I will likely at first dig, regardless of what the 800 says, just to get an idea of what is giving the signal and how deep the targets are.) Any other advice (from anyone) is appreciated.
  21. I have an easy and maybe stupid question to present now... Observing my TDI Bh, with both of the coils I own (the original 12" and the aftermarket Detech 8"), I can clearly see way too long wire around the shaft and I'm forced to make several loops up to the control box near the handle. Supposing to measure the right lenght for the maximum extended shaft, and to cut away the hipmount mile long cable.....Am I doing a disaster or not? I actually can't remember the technical cable's specs in the amazing pdf Steve posted time ago, but if I'm correct it talked about to reduce some current resistance with a slight performance improvement too...Have I seen a mirage or what?... I'm not kidding 😜... It's just me, looking for something to play with, suffering for a missed AQ.
  22. A year full of distractions, so yes I kind of did forget about this project. All parts had been ordered and arrived in good time. Assembly to follow in the next few days... with photographs and a performance test on the modified Pro I still have.. I'll take it steady and do it right, get the soldering tidy and follow the plan..
  23. A friend traded me an old Tdi Sl for my old Canon DSLR with a couple lenses. The camera was old but still worked well and perhaps worth a couple hundred at most, so I threw in a telephoto lens and we had a deal. I got a dead or dying Tdi Sl in exchange. The machine would power on etc everything seems to work except it will not ground balance and sensitivity was way down to almost nothing. Ok so not dead but way out of sorts at least. The previous owner has moved on after having done something to the machine. Yes he had opened it up and poked about and tried to make adjustments or something to it. He has lots of history when it comes to pulling things appart followed by difficulty in putting them back together. Let's say this is not his first Humpty Dumpty moment, rather one of many.. Looking at the PCB there is nothing to adjust? I'll take a closer look later now that the PCB is out. At worst I figured I would get some parts etc. Anyways, later I managed to obtain an SPP PCB and swapped them out. Plugged everything back as I would the TDI SL PCB. Sensitivity is back to normal, seems to work well. Pulse Delay as well as HI LOW ALL do not appear to work like they would on a Tdi SL , even though they are plugged into the board. It does appear to work as a Sierra Pulse Pro should. The SPP board is the latest with all the mods already done at the factory. The old White's rep in Australia has a few SPP boards left for about $70 US each. So I have an SPP for a while, until I can figure out how to repair the Tdi Sl PCB. I'll wait and see what happens. I've got a battery project on the boil and lots of real work to keep me busy. Locked down till mid August so I'll get busy playing with my projects during my spare time. I'll compare it to my Tdi Sl LE and see if performance differs, should be the same. In the image the left PCB is SPP. right PCB is from sick Tdi Sl. I think it was a good deal and the end result satisfactory for now. Even better if I can fix the original board.. All the best.
  24. I am interested to learn more about the 7.5-inch mono versus the 7.5-inch Aussie coils that are available for the TDI series. Is there an advantage of one coil design over the other when hunting for nuggets? I have the standard 12-inch dual field and also a Super Pulse 150 coil and am curious whether I should add either or both of these coils to my collection? Or should I purchase one of the new Nugget Finder 8x6 Sadie mono coils? Any thoughts or advice would be greatly appreciated.
  25. I opened up my TDIBH the other day for some fiddling around and checking out a few things. I powered up the detector with all of the guts and board opened up and had it hooked up to the 14.8v (4 x 18650 cells) battery pack. I had it going for just a few minutes when I gripped the circuit board as part of my “fiddling” around......well I dropped the board and swore a bit in response the burn I was expecting on my fingers. Well it turns out that on the opposite side of the board behind where the big capacitors sit is some sort of heat sink and I can tell you the heat from this spot was something else. The detector has and runs just perfect but the hotspot really surprised me. I decided to hook up the 12v battery pack and let it run for a decent amount of time and it never got past a mild warm on the back of the board. That extra couple of volts is generating some serious extra heat.....bit like on the heat sink area of the CPU chip in your computer. I honestly don’t know if the detector can handle this extra heat long term but I’m not taking any chances. I’ve moved back to the 3 x 18650 battery pack which I knocked up when I first got the detector. There is a slight loss in depth but surprisingly not too much. I feel the performance of the 11.1v Lithium setup is maybe 1 to 2 inches behind the 14.8v “hot pack”. You can see in the photos the big caps on the detector and where the heat comes from. The other photo is my 11.1v pack which packs some punch and lasts much longer then the stock NiMH pack.
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