bklein Posted March 29, 2022 Author Share Posted March 29, 2022 I scraped off the glue and tried to remove the screws from one end cap - the heads just broke off on all 3. Here is what I see as the pin connections. Do the two NC's actually do anything? I'm thinking next I'll cut a section out of the bottom so I can see the guts of the thing. Or do you guys have photos of how it is put together? Already a bit of blue corrosion at the base of the A pin on the headphone receptacle. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Carolina Posted March 29, 2022 Share Posted March 29, 2022 7 hours ago, bklein said: I scraped off the glue and tried to remove the screws from one end cap - the heads just broke off on all 3. Here is what I see as the pin connections. Do the two NC's actually do anything? I'm thinking next I'll cut a section out of the bottom so I can see the guts of the thing. Or do you guys have photos of how it is put together? Already a bit of blue corrosion at the base of the A pin on the headphone receptacle. Once again you will destroy the case to gain access. Drill out the screws and then try running a razor knife around the face plate. Heat the blade as needed. There are 11 NiMh batteries in series 1.5 v each inside. The pins marked A&B, 6 & 7 o’clock are the phones. The remaining pins have no purpose for the limited edition AQ. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bklein Posted March 30, 2022 Author Share Posted March 30, 2022 If I remove the faceplate will the batteries pull out from the case? They aren’t glued in are they? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Carolina Posted March 31, 2022 Share Posted March 31, 2022 58 minutes ago, bklein said: If I remove the faceplate will the batteries pull out from the case? They aren’t glued in are they? Shake it. There is your answer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bklein Posted March 31, 2022 Author Share Posted March 31, 2022 I hear/feel nothing but may be because of the puffing cells. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Carolina Posted March 31, 2022 Share Posted March 31, 2022 5 hours ago, bklein said: I hear/feel nothing but may be because of the puffing cells. They are loose. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bklein Posted April 3, 2022 Author Share Posted April 3, 2022 After doing a few charge/discharge cycles the case bulge went away! I haven't gotten to the inside of the case yet. I did drill out the front panel screws using a piece of brass tubing in a drill. I would think this drilling would have provided any inside pressure an escape. I don't get what could occur to cause the bulge and then eliminate it. From these charge/discharge cycles it looks like the factory pack is holding 2000-2100mA. I would think that would last more than an hour - maybe 3 hours if the detector uses 700mA(?). I've read several different specs on this. Do you have any data on below: 1) nominal current requirements 2) minimum-maximum design voltage range 3) stock battery specs Pjrough, you made a statement that the AQ's lower voltage is 10V. Joe, you published a factory battery charge/discharge chart that gave ~14.3V fully discharged, ~17.5V fully charged. Usual discharge spec on NiMH is 1.1 or 1.2V per cell. If 11 cells that's 12.1-13.2V per pack. I was using 1.1V per cell cutout and at that voltage the charger stopped and read the pack voltage at 12.87V. So I am left wondering if maybe the factory charger is not as good as my RC charger and there may be more life to this pack than I was led to believe. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Carolina Posted April 4, 2022 Share Posted April 4, 2022 4 hours ago, bklein said: After doing a few charge/discharge cycles the case bulge went away! I haven't gotten to the inside of the case yet. I did drill out the front panel screws using a piece of brass tubing in a drill. I would think this drilling would have provided any inside pressure an escape. I don't get what could occur to cause the bulge and then eliminate it. From these charge/discharge cycles it looks like the factory pack is holding 2000-2100mA. I would think that would last more than an hour - maybe 3 hours if the detector uses 700mA(?). I've read several different specs on this. Do you have any data on below: 1) nominal current requirements 2) minimum-maximum design voltage range 3) stock battery specs Pjrough, you made a statement that the AQ's lower voltage is 10V. Joe, you published a factory battery charge/discharge chart that gave ~14.3V fully discharged, ~17.5V fully charged. Usual discharge spec on NiMH is 1.1 or 1.2V per cell. If 11 cells that's 12.1-13.2V per pack. I was using 1.1V per cell cutout and at that voltage the charger stopped and read the pack voltage at 12.87V. So I am left wondering if maybe the factory charger is not as good as my RC charger and there may be more life to this pack than I was led to believe. This will be the last I respond to this thread. Your pack was over charged and one of the 11 (1.5) volt batteries likely exploaded. This resulted in the case bulge. Drilling out the screws gave the air tight case a vent. You likely ruined the battery with your charger. Ole Beechnut is correct. I will show you one last time, a properly charged stock battery with the supplied charger from Fisher. 17.4 volts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bklein Posted April 4, 2022 Author Share Posted April 4, 2022 I used the correct charger. I had two chargers, one for the AQ battery and one for the OBN battery and they were well marked and I charged both batteries simultaneously. Tenergy charger for the OBN and the AQ charger looks just like yours. Oh well, I’ll try using it this weekend and see how long it goes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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