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Need Suggestions With Tom D Program In Water


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So guys what I am trying to say is I am hunting in shallow salt  water with Tom’s settings. 
I feel it’s like using the excal in all metal. At least that what I am telling myself. 
and I think it can have some real potential. 
I really like the 8 in coil especially in the water. 
Was wondering if anyone else is doing this and is there any tips or detecting modes there using. I am having a hard time understanding the target sounds. Trying go just use sounds not numbers. the beginning and end when sweeping over the target. I must be gettalot of small metal coming in 7-10 range and it’s junk. Think it’s small lead shot or split shot. Would like to have the gold sound better or sound different 
is there anything I can try adjusting or programming. 
appreciate any advice you give
 

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1 hour ago, stateguy said:

So guys what I am trying to say is I am hunting in shallow salt  water with Tom’s settings. 
I feel it’s like using the excal in all metal. At least that what I am telling myself. 
and I think it can have some real potential. 
I really like the 8 in coil especially in the water. 
Was wondering if anyone else is doing this and is there any tips or detecting modes there using. I am having a hard time understanding the target sounds. Trying go just use sounds not numbers. the beginning and end when sweeping over the target. I must be gettalot of small metal coming in 7-10 range and it’s junk. Think it’s small lead shot or split shot. Would like to have the gold sound better or sound different 
is there anything I can try adjusting or programming. 
appreciate any advice you give
 

Although I have postponed the purchase and further testing until next fall, as far as the Manticore is concerned I can say, after a couple of hours spent scrolling through the settings, that it is very reminiscent of the parameters found on the Ctx and expands on them with several filters.

Although underwater you tend to look at the screen very little, don't forget that using ferrous limits and all metals with red numbers is already a good help in discarding doubtful signals.

I think you are using the prospecting theme and perhaps that is why you cannot decipher with audio an unusual shape and its signal.

All that remains is to devote at least two tones to the first 1/15 and 15/30 bins to get a feel for subtle targets and at least two more tones from 30 onward for larger objects and coins.

Keep in mind that while tightening the pattern with the wider ferrous boundaries, throughout the all metal, does not mean dumbing down the audio on the iron, but hearing the tone "dirtying" the signals.

 As a rule of thumb, I would not dig anything that sounds even a little ferrous.

Not when we are immersed, there is absolutely no time to waste.

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I'm using Tom's settings in the water with the M8 coil also. I don't think there is any way you can adjust any settings to make gold sound better. To me, gold has a smooth soft sound compared to coins or aluminum. In the prospecting audio every nonferrous target sounds pretty much the same. I say pretty much because I am hearing subtle differences on pull tabs or irregular aluminum, but I still dig everything that remotely sounds good. I too have audio responses from the smallest of targets that fall through the scoop or move around when trying to scoop them up. Sometimes after multiple attempts I move on. The audio response in prospecting mode is very short and quick. I think the more time spent on this particular mode is best for learning the Tom D settings. I hunt in Florida, so his settings are working for me. I don't think I will change to something else at this point. 

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As Okara said, with Prospecting Audio there are subtle but telling differences in target sounds. First off, if you don't want to dig iron, make sure your Ferrous Volume and Ferrous Pitch are set to your liking and are loud enough to be audible. I have my ferrous volume at about half of what my regular volume is. That grunt sound in addition to the red indication on your screen should eliminate digging iron if you so choose.

Aluminum is tough. Learn the short hit sound of foil or tiny can slaw in the 12 and under range. It is different than a gold ring hit sound in the same range. Some may debate this, but I can tell the difference quite noticeably. There is a beach in my area just loaded with tiny can slaw everywhere. It is as if they replenished sand there with recycled aluminum mixed in on purpose almost. I have learned to pass on hits under 12 or so that don't have that "ring" sound after many hours of hunting this beach. You would wear out in 2 hours digging all the aluminum hits there. A ring will have almost a double "ding-ding" sound for lack of a better description. Junk aluminum that IS NOT ROUND will just have a wispy, short hit sound usually under a 12 ID. Round aluminum and pull tabs sound like a ring, nothing you can do about that....just dig it and see. If pull tabs are every 2 or three feet everywhere, don't dig 29-31 ID's even though they sound great. I still haven't dug a ring between 29-31, but I know some may have. It's always been a pull tab for me.

Lastly, you say you're trying to use sound, not #'s. Not sure if you mean not looking at all at the ID #? I don't know why in the world you would not want to use the #s to check a target hit. I don't use the #'s either until I get a hit sound. Then.....use them.

Time with Tom's settings will be your friend. I've used his settings with Prospecting Audio from day one 15 months ago and have no desire to use bin-tone type settings.

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If the OP has the time or desire, he may want to read the details about the Tom D's settings in the following link (below).  Just pay close attention to ground balancing the detector relating to coil distances from the wet salt, and the distance between the coil and the water's surface.  Also, read what he has to say about sensitivity and noise cancellation:

https://www.detectorprospector.com/topic/24667-tom-dankowski’s-settings-for-the-minelab-manticore/

If you want the answers you seek, it will take a lot of time to read everything about the Tom Dankowiski's settings. There is enough information from "Nasa Tom" to be able to write a book about it:

https://www.dankowskidetectors.com/discussions/list.php?2

 

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