Jump to content

White's 5900 Di Pro Sl 'improvements'?


Nailer

Recommended Posts

Greetings,

As I'd stated in my intro-post, I have this unit from my father's estate.  I'm fully confident that I'll be able to get it up and running.

It also has this coil (head?).
 

I'm wondering, seeing as there is NO warranty for it, and I have to take it apart to chase power issues, is there any particular 'fix' and/or 'improvement' that can be made on this, to make it gooder?

Also was wondering, considering the advancements in both technology and use, the coil makes me question whether a better one might be more applicable?  The foldable/collapsible ones that were used in the ME for mine detection I'm sure were better than this 80's technology, no?

As I'd also stated in my intro-post, I'm at the beginning here so I fully admit that I don't know what I should be asking or looking for.

 

White's Body.jpeg

White's Head.jpeg

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites


I'd forgotten to add, and can't find an 'edit' function yet, but with regards to the 'coil' I've seen in different places where it was said 'not for use in saltwater'.  I'm at the center of the continent, so that isn't an issue.  But what about plain 'waterproofness' or is there something I can do to make THAT better?

I'm not talking about using it in the rain/snow near as much as puddles and creeks and whatnot.  And wet grass, etc.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The short answer is there is nothing substantial you can do to improve the performance other than getting it running again. This is an analog model and the advancements taking place now are in digital, a whole different world. The 5900 was near peak analog performance so not much you can improve, without going to digital processing.

Coils are model specific so you can’t just slap any coil on it and have it work. As far as waterproof those coils are waterproof. The warning about saltwater has more to do with corrosion or accidentally dropping the unit in the water than the coil.

IMG_4458.jpeg

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thank you sir.  I now have a place to aim for, as well as a starting point.  From the list you have at the bottom of the post, I'm assuming (I hate doing that) that I have the 9.5" P/N 801-3217-3 as mine is labelled the:

Blue Max Deep Scan 950 P/N 624-0265

I appreciate your reply, and am in the middle of reading the "Coils PDF" as I checked this thread.  I've a long way to go, and I know that.  This helps me get pointed into a narrower direction.

I appreciate that.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

In it's day, the 5900 was a very good detector. It still is to a certain point. In today's world, it's rather depth limited compared with a modern detector, it's heavy, not quite as ergonomic, not waterproof (the box, not the coil, which is), very poor in salt water and wet salt water sand, not great at detecting tiny items like stud earrings and such, relatively very slow processor which affects recovery speed and target separation, and even though they're very good at target I.D, it's just a needle moving on a gauge. On the plus side, I always liked the trigger pin point switch, the accuracy of the target I.D., the rugged construction, and the center hole in the search coil. The coil by the way is a very good all-around coil for it's day. It was also used on more models than what Steve's list shows. My 6000/DI Pro, Eagle 2 SL, and Spectrum also used that coil. Hopefully, the battery pack is the only problem with yours, and it's the alkaline one. They also had a rechargeable, but, not sure if those are available anymore. You wouldn't want to spend a lot getting one anyway until you know the detector works. If it needs more than just some new batteries, I wouldn't recommend fixing it. For the money, you'd be better off getting a new detector that has more features, better depth and separation, lighter, waterproof, etc. Good Luck! 

  • Like 3
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Welcome aboard ! 

It sounds like you might have some circuit board experience and want to attempt this fix ? Schematic searching ? You'll probably find some help here with that.

If I'm wrong and you are looking to send it for repair .  Bench fees aren't cheap anymore.... You should consider that cost against a new but relatively inexpensive detector in the $200-500 range from  Minelab , Nokta , XP , Garrett etc. Or even in the classifieds.  Maybe post a wanted ad there too ! There does seem to be a few members that have a couple of extra's laying around.......

You might be able to be detecting by the 25th !

Questions ?  Ask and you shall receive.

 

 

   

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yes, I am looking to trace the problem and do the repair myself.  Living on a fixed (Disability) income doesn't allow for much 'extra' expenses.  I have time on my hand, so I'll do what I can.

As for the schematic's, if ANYONE has a set they'd be willing to share, or if you know of a link I could use, that'd be HUGE.  I'm not an electronicologist, but I am able to trace, solder, spark, and 'release-magic-smoke'.

Merry Christmas y'all,

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hello Vic,
Yes, I'm talking about White's detectors, specifically the 5900 Di PRO Sl.

I'm looking forward to using this particular one, after I do what I can to repair it.  Hence why my request if anyone has a schematic for it.

No, I do not 'repair White's' so-to-speak.  I'm looking to repair the one that I have here, of which I just inherited it from my father's estate.  I've done a bit of soldering and dabbling and creating in the past.

Apologies if I misled.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...