cudamark

The old warranty may no longer apply since the business has gone through several owners. I guess it will be up to Chuck if he will honor repairs/replacements on sales he didn't even make.

I heard rumors that Chuck is going to start making Stealth scoops again. Hope it's true as I've had no success in contacting the outfit in Ca that was the last manufacturer of them.

I guess I'm the oddball exception here. I LOVE the 900 over the 800. To me, every feature is an improvement with the 900. I find the expanded (enhanced?) TID scale a benefit in separating known targets. I can tell a nickel over a pull tab much easier in most cases. Sure, just the tail of a pull tab will fool you still, but, that's no different than with the 800. Most of the modern tabs I find these days (not counting completely corroded ones) read in the 30's. Nickels NEVER do. They're usually a solid 27 unless corroded where they read less. As for that comparison chart, I don't agree with it's accuracy. For instance, a 29 (clad U.S. quarter) on an 800 is a 89 on a 900.....but, if it now reads 83 or 93 on a 900, are you going to pass it up just because it's an odd number? Not me! I love the "non-coin" numbers. I've found some of my most interesting relics and jewelry with those.

Yeah, use some of the gold to buy some less labor intensive equipment! At least get some gloves and a face mask!

Good thing, huh? 🤣

I look at it as more of a reward for all the junk crap you have to sift through to get that gold! 😀👍

If you're not supposed to peel that sticker, what is the purpose if it and the holes underneath it?

Yuk...give me the popcorn! I've had food poisoning twice at KFC. I can't even walk into the place without gagging now....

Those long range detectors are all great at finding lots of gold.....for the sellers....😀👍

No question who owns it though...eh? 🤣

When you say that "different targets decay at different rates" I assume this is based on the size of the target more than what metal the target is made of? If not, it seems to me that with some creative electronics and programming , you could come up with a discriminating PI. You also stated that Minelab came up with the dual channel PI. I always thought that White's did that. Interesting.

Hi all, I had a curious problem with my 900 on a recent vacation. Before leaving home, my 900 worked flawlessly. When I arrived at my first vacation hunt, it wouldn't fire up! Figures, huh? The green light would just flash once and not stay on steady like a normal start up. After playing with it a bit, sometimes it would start after a few presses of the power button, other times it might take a hundred presses to finally get a solid green light and start up procedure. Once it actually did start properly, it would stay on, no problem. The next day, same issue. It got so bad that I didn't think it would ever start up. Then I got the idea that maybe it would help to try with the battery charger (or in this case, my portable reserve battery booster/charger) hooked up, even though the battery had received a full charge all night long. Voila! Started right up! Humm, what's the deal here.....Over the next few days, that's what I had to do to get it fired up, and once started, it worked fine, although I noticed that the battery seemed to run down faster each day. The last day, the battery only lasted a couple of hours after a full charge from the night before, so, I figured the battery itself was the startup problem. When I got back home, I checked with the warranty info and found that the battery only comes with a 6 month guarantee....seems a bit short, but, ok, get another one. $30 and a few days later, replacement battery in hand, I put a new one in and problem solved. I had previously replace the battery in my 800, so, thinking it was the same procedure (I even thought it might be the same battery, but, no), I felt confident in replacing this one too. It is slightly different as I discovered. It isn't all that different, but, here's what I found. Pull the handle off the shaft as normal, then the battery compartment cap just pulls out....no retaining screw. It just has an "O" ring sealing the cap to the handle/housing. Inside, the battery just pulls out easily, unplugs like the 800, and just slides back in, with a foam bumper holding it in place. In re-installing the cap and "O" ring assembly (it would have been nice it Minelab included a new one with the battery) I noticed that it fit tight enough that the external speaker would flex outward when pushing the cap in place. Not wanting to damage it, I tried installing it very slowly to allow the air inside the handle to escape without flexing the speaker. No dice. I had rubbed a bit of silicone grease on the "O" ring and housing making that sealing surface air tight. Ok, plan B......there was a small round sticker on the cap that peels up easily to reveal some air holes. That did the trick! Just carefully roll the edge of that sticker back enough to expose the holes, then install the cap all the way, and then press that sticker back over the hole(s) again. There again, it would have been nice if Minelab had included a new one with the battery, but, it looks like it will still work fine. I have one question for all of you though... what happens if the speaker cone breaks? Will water flood into the battery compartment and damage something? Is the battery compartment isolated from the electronics in the pod? The battery connection doesn't have a waterproof connector on it, so, if water (especially salt water) got in there, wouldn't it short out the battery? Maybe I'm missing something, but, that looks like a potential problem down the road when dunking this thing in the ocean.

Agreed, using a PI or SMF VLF is dependent on conditions and depth of targets. Digging everything is fine, if you have the time, physical endurance, and mental stability to do so. If you want to dig every signal and are willing to recover bobby pins and fire ring nails/staples from 18" down, have I got the beach for you! It would only take you a few years to cover it, so, come see me......please! Some of us weren't trying to convert him or talk the OP out of using a PI, just that with today's modern SMF machines, that in his situation, he might not need a PI as badly as he thinks. His decision, we just wanted to point out other options in case he wasn't aware of them.

I've had both the Nox900 and the D2 underwater with no problems. Depending on how deep you plan to go, some are better than others. The Nox 900, maybe 10-15 feet, the D2, 25 feet. Excalibur and CZ21 100 feet no problem. I haven't played with the Legend, but, from others I hear it's fine at least to 15 feet too. I have a friend that got one of the waterproof boxes for the Nox 800 from some outfit in Europe and he's had no problem with it either diving to 25 feet. I wouldn't try it without one on the 600/800.

With the great SMF machines available today, there's very little need for a PI in the water IMO. Extreme depth in black sand is the only thing I can think of.