Badger-NH

Do you have a link?

Come to think of it, wax and silicone are both petroleum products and are made from the same basic thing. Surf wax has sticky stuff added to it. You wouldn't want to use it on your snowboard. Nor would you put ski wax on a surfboard.

I don't foresee anything getting dirty or ugly. I didn't get a chance to try the silicone. It still defies logic to me that lubricating the washers would improve their grip, but if it works for you, that's great. .

I just discovered what may be the fix for loose floppy coils. So the problem for me all along is that I want the coil to stay in place and not lay flat every time I set the detector down. What most people do is crank down on the bolt as much as possible but this can snap the bolt and possibly put stress on the ears. For years I've been putting a piece of grip tape on the inside of one of the ears. This helps a little but I was thinking it could be better. So I took some surfboard wax and coated the ears and the washers with a layer of wax. Surfboard wax is extremely sticky. When I put the coil back on, I was amazed how well it worked. The coil stays put so well that I didn't need to crank down on the bolt at all. I don't think it even needs the grip tape. The sticky wax gives the surfaces plenty of grip, yet I can still adjust the angle whenever I need to. I'm very pleased with how well it worked. Surfboard wax is cheap. Any surf shop will have it for a couple of bucks, or you can get it on Amazon. Actually, any kind of wax might work. Even candle wax. Give it a try. Surf wax just happens to be more sticky.

The ears on the Fisher 11" DD coils break super easy if you don't use the rubber washers that come with the detector. The Fisher washers look like any other washer but the coil ears are so thin that even the slightest difference in thickness will cause them to snap. I repaired mine with Gorilla Super Glue and it seems to be okay so far.

Laying flat when you put the detector down is exactly what I don't want the coil to do. I like the coil to stay in the hunting position at all times. That's why I put grip tape on one ear. It holds the coil in place when I set it down but still allows for minor angle adjustments while hunting. I've never heard of anyone having a problem with the coil being too tight but I have snapped bolts from overtightening. If I want my coil to be looser, I just loosen the bolt a little.

Interesting. I will try it

Lubricating the washers with silicone makes no sense at all to me. It will just make everything more slippery requiring the bolt to be even tighter than would normally be necessary to hold the coil in place.

A friend of mine broke his ears and all he hunts is land. Mostly fields and woods. I'm always afraid of overtightening, not only about the ears breaking but the bolt as well. I put a piece of grip tape on the inside of one ear to give more traction to the smooth surface. It's an adhesive backed tape that you put on stairs so that you don't slip. This way, I don't have to over tighten the bolt. I've been doing this for years on many different detectors and it seems to work. The coil is loose enough to move when you want it to but stiff enough to prevent it from flopping around. I started doing it because it bothers me when the coil lays flat every time I set the detector down. So far I've never had a problem.

I hope they don't add weight to the coil design just to appease the water hunters. That would leave all us non water hunters swinging a heavier coil. It's so easy to add a weight to the coil if you want it to sink. Filling the rod with sand would help as well.

From the title of the post, I was expecting to see a photo of Gold Canyon. 🙂

By quirks in pin point do you guys mean the 2 or 3 seconds of muted tone that you get after you push the button? I've never seen that as a problem. I just wait while it adjusts itself to the target. Then it works fine. It doesn't seem to negatively affect the performance of the machine while in pinpoint. I find pin point mode on the Equinox to be just as accurate as my Explorer SE was and fine tunes itself to the target just as well. I use it all the time for in ground targets.

The reason why I don't care about the way signals sound is because I dig a ton of crappy signals from targets that are often at the very edge of detection. I usually run my detectors very hot to get as much depth as possible which on many machines makes the target ID unreliable. Just the other day relic hunting, I dug an 1835 Capped Bust Half Dime that sounded like junk. All I knew was that it was very likely non-ferrous.

Yup, I surfed today for three hours. It was chest high and clean. I hope I'm still surfing ten years from now.

I'm 63 and have been detecting since '96.

I had a Gold Bug Pro with the Fisher 11" coil that did pretty good on the dry sand as long as the rain had washed most of the salt out of it. The depth performance diminished though as wet salt was introduced. Yes, it behaved well enough on the wet sand but the depth was terrible. If that's your only detector then that's fine I guess. I see people at the beach all the time with low performance machines. That's why I inquired about the depth that Joe was getting. Maybe the G2+ performs better than my GBP did.

Sorry but that makes no sense at all to me.

I just dig any target that might be non-ferrous. The only thing I avoid digging is iron. I don't need to know the subtle differences between various non-ferrous targets because they could still be gold or silver no matter what they sound like. Depth and the ability to identify iron is all that matters to me.

What is the purpose behind the poker chips? I'm not familiar with that type of depth testing. Why test junk targets? Do you not dig non-ferrous junk? The G2+ was designed to hunt gold nuggets and relics near iron. That's why I'm asking about the depth on the beach. It's not a beach detector. I would guess that the salt in the sand would severely limit depth with that machine compared to multi frequency detectors.

Forgive me if this has already been discussed. What kind of depth are you getting with the G2? Have you done any tests? Are you sticking mainly to the dry sand?

Those Tarsacci covers are very thin and brittle to begin with. I went through three of them in the short time I had mine.

I would have no interest in buying those items separately. Few people would, especially at retail prices. But they can sell tens of thousands of them if they include them with the detector and still make a good profit from it. It just shows that it costs them practically nothing to manufacture this stuff. We are paying for it no matter how you look at it. It's also very wasteful to sell people things they don't need. Just more plastic for the environment. But they don't care as long as they make money.

White's was one company that did that. Now some companies are starting to include things we don't even necessarily need, like the headphones and WM08 Module that come with with the Equinox. That actually angers me a little. They are afraid that if they don't include them with the detector, people might not buy them, which is true I suppose.

Goggle?

I have to agree. Using a cover is not a big deal. The advantages of using a cover outweigh any benefits of not using one, at least with Minelab machines. Thanks for all the opinions.