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Found 44 results

  1. Hi, all! I just wanted to mention that in the spirit of the Holidays, Steve's Detector Rods will be giving away one carbon-fiber complete Equinox shaft (upper shaft and lower rod), AND one carbon-fiber Equinox lower rod, to two lucky U.S. winners. Two separate drawings will be held on Dec. 18, one for the complete shaft, and a second for the lower rod. Entry into the drawings is completely free, with no purchase required -- and the entry period is open from now, through 11:59 PM on Sunday, Dec. 15. Additionally, ALL entrants into either drawing will qualify to receive 10% off of any item purchased through Steve's, for the entire month of December. For additional information, including details and eligibility, please visit Steve's Facebook page, at https://www.facebook.com/stevesdetectorrods Thanks! Steve
  2. Today I had a look at the shaft that my father put together for his 800. I thought it turned out very well, so I thought I would take a few pictures to share here. We looked at a few options but ultimately thought a true one piece shaft was best and easiest. Based on a previous conversation I had with an experienced water hunter on here, we figured it would be alright to run the carbon fiber almost all the way to the coil. The lower fiberglass factory shaft was cut down to about 6" and secured into the inanimate carbon tube with epoxy. This, along with the lack of clamps really reduced the weight. A couple of holes for the armrest and pod completed the project. Looks like he even got the button on the end of the shaft too. I will be doing something similar with mine, although I still think I want to try a kevlar shaft just for fun as it is basically transparent to RF. I'm in the process of finding one with the right diameters tonight. The main thing for me is to get the 0.875" O.D. (~22mm) to fit the pod, i can modify the lower piece if need be, or print a new one. I'll also tilt the handle a little bit towards myself. I love this because it is light and simple.
  3. My son printed this up for me. Hopefully it will last longer then factory ones.
  4. Have been looking at this on Ebay and decided to order one today to try out! We will see how it functions! I currently don't have a proper shop, or else i would probably make one myself, out of an old nylon cutting board! If it works out, i may make a few for my other detectors! But for now, I'll just purchase!👍
  5. I don’t really like the smooth handle on my Equinox so I wanted to add something to give it a little more cushion and grip. I first thought of handle bar tape like they used on ten speed racer bikes back in the day but nobody seems to carry it, except maybe a bike shop. Besides, I thought it might have been too thick. I settled on cloth Athletic Tape that I found at Walmart. It’s super thin, 1.5” wide, has a sticky back and only cost $2.97. If it gets torn or dirty, I can just change it like a bandage. I figure I can get about 15 applications out of the 30’ roll!
  6. Has anyone ever made a homemade shaft for a metal detector with PVC pipe ? I think im gonna try it ill keep you informed on how it goes
  7. Curious if anyone has tried one of these variations on the telescopic rod for the EQX? Says the mount for control pod is from a mold rather the 3-d printed. There are 2 listings, one in UK and the other from a seller in Georgia. https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F293119857629
  8. I really needed the Equinox on a collapsible shaft so that I can put it in my backpack or stow it on the Rokon for riding cross country. I already had the Golden Mask shaft that I had modified for the Deus, so I started tinkering. The original Equinox shaft has a smaller diameter than the Golden Mask, so the shaft mounts will not mate up directly. I took the dremel tool and relieved the areas around the screw holes just enough to get the Nox handle brain/screen section to snug up to the Mask shaft. I removed the original Mask handle and fitted the Nox in the same location. (Mask handle is bolted and glued to the shaft, it takes some work to get them apart.) I then used longer NOX sized metric bolts (shown below) snugged them into the NOX handle around the Mask shaft. Its a very tight fit so the bolts end up a little bent. I then cut the heads off the bolts to make them more or less studs. I cut and drilled a hose clamp band, fitted it over the studs, then pulled them down tight over the shaft with a nut and washer combination. I added a little black paint and the whole thing is really stable. I'll had a little black Duct tape to the whole mess so that it doesn't hang up on my shirt or pants. It collapses to 24 inches and fully extends to about 50 inches. The Golden Mask shafts are all carbon fiber so corrosion, weight and shaft wobble are not a problem. I gave it a test run this morning was quite impressed. For whatever reason I can not explain, my bump falsing was cut by about half. That was the first thing I noticed so I went through all the set up functions to make sure I hadn't accidentally changed something like Sens or Recovery. Nope, all my same settings, but now a noticeable reduction in bump sensitivity. I don't know how, but I'm liking it a whole lot better now.
  9. Since people are chatting up new stems, I would like to recommend a three piece telescoping replacement for the stock Equinox stem. I received it today and love it. It is super lightweight, simple to assemble (I did it so it's simple), it obviously has had a lot of thought put into it. I don't make a habit of putting up ad's for equipment unless I am pretty sure they are first rate and I believe this shaft meets that standard. I took a couple of quick shots of it after I closed it up to it's shortest length. They also included a nice cover for the Eq. control box which I also have shown. Take a look at their website and see what you think https://www.detecting-innovations.co.uk/TELE-KNOX_Detecting-Innovations_Telescopic_Stem/p6292256_19741720.aspx
  10. Hello everybody, can I use the Golden Mask Shaft (converted for the Equinox) in salt water? Are there metallic parts that will be corroded / oxidized by being submerged in ocean/sea ? Thanks Editor's Note - this thread was split from an older existing thread about the Golden Mask aftermarket rod
  11. He made this custom 28 inch dive shaft for me....
  12. Took my new set up to the beach for a few hours for their first trial run as a “team.” Steve’s Detector Rod. This two piece shaft was the best I’ve ever used...bar none. It was solid as a rock, as in no wobble whatsoever, and light as anything I’ve ever used. With the counter balance weight, it was better than swinging my old Deus with a 9” coil. Steve weighted mine using 16 oz of lead shot in a 4.5” long cylinder. He set it up that way so swinging the 11” coil would emulate swinging his 7 oz shaft with a 6” coil installed! It works exactly as intended and designed. Bottom line, I couldn’t be more pleased. This will be my shaft of choice for the very very long term. You can read my original review of Steve’s work at the link below: Quest APTX-LL Wireless Headphones Initial thoughts: My order only took two days to arrive from Hong Kong! Extremely comfortable over the ear design. External build quality looks good. They paired up with my EQX exactly like the Minelab wireless even to the point of using the same tones as the Minelab. Low latency capability is certainly there. I ran them in my test garden using good targets surrounded by iron and they performed extremely well. Nice and clear crisp sound with sufficient volume. Haven’t yet had to use the volume control. Haven’t been able to test battery life yet so that’s TBD. So far, I’m favorably impressed. I’ll take them to the beach on Monday and report back. Additional points: ~ These headphones are easily adjusted for proper fit and the top head piece is extremely well padded and comfortable. ~ They are water/rain resistant. Not designed for diving...and resistance to water damage is all I really wanted. No blue tooth wireless headphones can be used when submerged...at least none that I know of. Fast forward to their first beach run. We finally have a set of Aptx low latency water resistant headphones made specifically for the Equinox! These headphones again linked right up with no issue. They were indeed low latency and I was able to pin point with ease. The sound was clear and crisp as I stated above and their over the ear design served to block out much of the ambient beach noise. They proved very comfortable after 3+ hours of detecting and simply worked flawlessly. I love being “untethered” and confident that when one of our Florida showers come up, I won’t have to worry about these getting wet. Again, they are water resistant not water proof. They are advertised as having a 24 hour battery life so I’ll not be able to comment on that since my hunts are never that long! One thing I took note of was, as is true with most or all wireless set ups, every now and then I would hear just a hint of static interference but it was barely noticeable and very rare. I attributed this to EMI since we were very close to Patrick Air Force Base and its Officer’s Club Beach. I’ve experienced such EMI there before. Bottom Line: I like these headphones very much and you can find them at the link shown below. https://www.questmetaldetectors.com/product-page/aptx-low-latency-bluetooth-wireless-headphones-for-minelab-equinox I now have what I believe is the best set up for my style of beach hunting. The Equinox, Steve’s rod and Quest wireless Hps. Soldier on...
  13. Here is a easy way to fix your shaft wobble, even if only temporarily. The male end of the middle shaft just needs a single layer of electrical tape. The tolerances on the Minelab shaft are actually pretty tight. If it was any closer you might not be able to get it apart again. Anybody who has swung a Tesoro Knows those twist-locks only work for first assembly, lol I've done this before with other machines except I used aluminum tape, time will tell how long the electrical tape will hold out. The tape in the picture has about 15 hours on it, so far it's OK. Besides, it's easy to replace. Coincidentally when I took the machine apart for a cleaning and to take this picture, I noticed that Minelab made a similar raised surface on the lower fiberglass rod. The lower rod is so long that a little play really wouldn't translate into as much slop as the upper connection does.
  14. I recently installed one of Steve’s Detector Rods on my Equinox and wanted to share a few observations. When I’m particularly impressed with a product, I like to let the maker and others know my thoughts...good or bad. The first impression out of the box was very positive. The build quality of this two piece system, both material and workmanship, is absolutely excellent. The cuttings are smooth and the fittings precise. You can immediately tell Steve uses only the best materials in the overall construction. Being a scientist, his penchant for precision is obvious in everything he does. Another very important fact about Steve—he’s a one-man-shop small businessman and an avid detectorist who knows what we need from personal detecting experience. Now for a few specifics. The locking mechanism is extremely sturdy and I really appreciate his use of an adjustment knob instead of having to hunt down or carry a screw driver in order to adjust the locking tab tension. I quickly noticed another user friendly design feature on Steve’s part. He uses easily found round washers on the lower rod where it connects to the coil ears! I don’t know about you, but I was amazed at how expensive those tear drop washers are when or if they ever need replaced. Thank you Steve! Another unique offering of Steve’s rods is the available counterbalance weight. As many have commented on these forums, the Equinox is inherently nose heavy...particularly with the 15 inch coil. Although his shafts are extremely light in their own right, a mere 7.86 ounces of combined weight of the two shafts, the counterbalance weight makes a huge difference in the perceived weight. When you first look at this counterbalance weight you may think that it only serves to add more total weight to the Equinox...and you’re right. However, when I installed that weight on the back end of the shaft, the balance was markedly improved...balance being a key factor of perceived weight. The designed fulcrum effect makes the detector simply feel lighter and makes it much easier to manipulate. I’m sure I could swing this Equinox for hours, even without the use of a harness, and my arm would be just fine. The stability of this set up is incomparable...and I’ve used many shafts on many detectors over many decades of metal detecting. One design aspect that may go unnoticed is that Steve’s lower shaft is 1.75” longer than the factory shaft—and he can make them longer upon request. This simple idea allows more of the lower rod to remain in the upper shaft giving it added stability even at extended lengths—not one wit of wobble with this one! An aspect I also appreciate is the elimination of the restrictive spring button adjustment system. The button only allows you to adjust the shaft to a factory predetermined series of lengths. Steve’s approach allows you to adjust the shaft to any length with which you feel comfortable. This guy has really thought the design through and focused his efforts on all those “little things” that make a big difference. Steve offers his shafts in an array of colors. Black, Red, Blue, Green and Silver. He can also provide custom work on his shafts if that’s what you need! Who else offers that? I’m obviously impressed with this young man and his workmanship and I like to let folks know when I find an outstanding product from an outstanding producer. One last but very important comment. I have no personal or financial interest in Steve’s Detector Rods. I never met the young man and since he lives in Norman OK, probably never will since OK is a mite far from my Florida beaches! Specifications: Upper Shaft Length: 34 7/8 in. Upper Shaft Weight: 4.81 oz. (136 g) Lower Rod Length: 26 in. (custom lengths available upon request) Lower Rod Weight: 3.06 oz. (87g) Material: Carbon-fiber (3K, twill pattern, glossy finish) Cam Lock material: Injection-molded Plastic (nylon) Threaded End Cap material: Delrin Threaded Butt-End Insert material: Delrin
  15. Hi all!I wanted to mention several things that may be of interest.First of all, as some know, I've been working on making colored shafts available regularly, as a "special order" item. I recently ordered a "test batch" of colored tubes, and all of the colored shafts produced from these tubes have been sold, except one -- it's in the "red/black" color, and I will post a picture of it a bit later.Second, I have several customers requesting colored shafts, so I'm looking to put together a new order for colored tubes from my supplier, in the next week to 10 days or so. I would like to get as many customers as are interested, to let me know, as my supplier would like as a large of an order as possible. So, IF YOU ARE INTERESTED IN A COLORED SHAFT, please let me know. Here is a picture of the available colors...Finally, I just received parts that will allow me to re-stock inventory on the standard (black) Equinox complete shafts; I also have CTX 3030 lower rods, and Equinox lower rods, available as well. Please let me know if you are interested -- sending me an email is the best way to get in touch, at steve@stevesdetectorrods.com.THANKS!Steve
  16. I have had a 600 for over a year now. There is much to like about the detector; however, the ergonomics are something of a problem. Unlike all my other detectors, I must use the Equinox arm strap, otherwise my arm will not stay within the arm cuff while swinging the detector. My original plan was to try to turn the middle rod into an S rod. I wasn't sure I could do this with just bending, or, if it would be smarter to attach a separate S section either mechanically, via welding, or even via epoxy. Since then, I have acquired two additional middle rods, one for each coil. This would now mean three times the work if I alter the middle rod. The other day I was looking at my AKA Signum MFD. It has the older style plastic housing. Rather than being a straight rod, or an S rod, it is more of a V setup. This got me thinking that if I bend the upper rod of the Equinox so that the arm cuff is higher, (similar to a hockey stick) this may solve the ergonomic problem, or, at least let me get rid of the arm strap. Has anyone tried bending their Equinox shaft? Will a simple conduit bender be sufficient to do the job?
  17. Just by coincidence, this 25mm * 23mm carbon fiber tube fits both models, so it's a "win win". I needed a 1" * 7/8" tubing clamp to make the conversion complete. I didn't want to drill a bunch of holes and not have them line up, so I used the "GM 1000 clamp on" cuff. As you can see, I trimmed off about 4" of the mid EQX section. I wrapped sand paper around the cf tube and slowly increased the clearance in the handle/clamp combo, until I was happy with the fit. Total un-extended length is 25", and could be less if you remove the coil. As for the counter-balance weights, it's just another happy coincidence. The washers fit like a glove (.90"), and by adding an over-sized washer, I can move the weight in or out of the shaft. That 1.5" bolt with 14 washers weighs about 4 ounces, and is infinitely adjustable with regards to length, weight, and positioning. https://www.amazon.com/Carbon-Fiber-Tube-Wrapped-Surface/dp/B07DH8WYQQ/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?keywords=carbon+fiber+tube&qid=1554147132&s=gateway&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1 https://www.ebay.com/i/123165031900?rt=nc&var=423574663558&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIM.MBE%26ao%3D2%26asc%3D20160908110712%26meid%3Dae995979ba42462ea30ceb0bda2fd5d5%26pid%3D100677%26rk%3D2%26rkt%3D9%26sd%3D122309026322%26itm%3D423574663558 Happy swinging. Brett
  18. Hi all. Now that I have the prototype shafts built, I've been able to work some more on the counterweight design, and I have moved very close to finalizing the design. I have discovered through this extensive testing/design that the amount of weight needed to achieve proper counterbalance is a bit more than I was originally thinking, after the preliminary, "rough" proof-of-concept testing. I would like to present the findings, and get some opinions -- from anyone who has been potentially interested in the counterbalance system -- as to whether these changes are acceptable, or if this would change your desire to possibly purchase the counterweights. 1. The weight needed to counterbalance the 12" x 15" coil, (based on an "average" lower rod extension length), is roughly 28 oz. This is a fairly substantial amount of weight -- BUT -- I must note that when the weight is applied, the machine swings BEAUTIFULLY. It FEELS lighter, even though the "absolute weight" -- i.e. according to measurement as provided by a scale -- is obviously greater. With my forearm in the arm in the arm cuff, swinging the machine normally, I was literally able to hold the handle of the machine with only my thumb and index finger -- and swing the machine effortlessly! The sensation is that the machine FLOATS across the ground! (For the 11" coil, the amount of counterweight needed is of course slightly less -- roughly 25 oz.) 2. To include this amount of weight in the tube extensions, and yet not have the extensions excessively long, I must use larger-diameter carbon-fiber tube than I planned -- I've decided on 31mm outside diameter tubes. I had intended to use the same diameter of tubing as used on the upper shaft (22.15mm outside diameter), but the extension length required was far too long. 3. Using the 31mm outside diameter tube for the counterweights, I calculate that length of the tube extending beyond the end of the shaft will be 7 1/2" for the 12" x 15" coil, and 6 1/2" for the 11" coil. 4. There would be no changes to the shaft design needed; anyone wanting the counterweight system in the future would still purchase a shaft with the same threaded female fitting installed in the butt end of the shaft, and the same threaded end cap that screws into the butt end. The only changes would be to the counterweights themselves (as comparted to what I had originally planned) -- i.e. larger diameter carbon-fiber tubing, and thus a larger end cap for the ends of the counterweights themselves. SO, my questions are, with the counterweight lengths needed now a pretty-well "known quantity" -- i.e. 6 1/2" and 7 1/2" long (11" coil and 12" x 15" coil, respectively), and the weights to achieve balance being also a pretty-well "known quantity" -- i.e. 25 oz. and 28 oz., respectively, would those interested in the weights find these specs acceptable? Please offer your comments. Preliminary/rough pricing info would be as follows. One counterweight, $22.50 plus shipping ($30 total). If an EQX user only wanted to order one weight, I would suggest the 6 1/2" long, 25 oz. weight, designed for the 11" coil; this amount of counterweight still achieves a degree of balance that feels GREAT with the 12" x 15" coil. I am of the opinion that no counterweight is needed, for the 6" coil. Two counterweights, one for the 11" coil and one for the 12" x 15" coil, $42.50 plus shipping ($50 total). Thoughts? Steve
  19. Hi all! I just wanted to let everyone know that I have finally been able to kick into shaft production mode, after the last of the long-awaited parts shipment arrived last Wednesday. Shaft building has been underway since, and I'm happy to say that I've managed to start shipping a first handful of shafts to customers on the wait list. Everyone who has contacted me in the past, and had their name added to the wait list requesting a shaft from the "first batch," has been contacted; each of these customers' shafts are compete -- and are now in the midst of a few days worth of epoxy-cure time. I expect all customers on the wait list, who requested a shaft from the first batch and have been contacted within the past week, will have their shafts ready to ship by Wendesday or Thursday. MEANWHILE, I have more than enough parts to build a couple of dozen shafts beyond those allocated to customers currently on my wait list. So, if you are interested in purchasing a shaft, please contact me, or be on the lookout for a "for sale" ad in the classified forum later this week. Finally, I have typed up a couple of detailed documents as well -- one providing lots of information on the counterweights (including assistance/advice on how to choose the "right" length/weight for your personal needs), and then a second document discussing the "spring button hole" option that is being offered, for those who feel they may wish to still utilize the spring button in the lower shaft. Please contact me if you would like to receive either or both of these two documents, or if you have any other questions regarding the new, complete carbon-fiber shafts now available for your Minelab Equinox! THANKS! Steve www.stevesdetectorrods.com (see the "what's new" section for complete shaft information) www.facebook.com/stevesdetectorrods
  20. I just got my 6” coil, and a dedicated lower rod is on the way. To make on-site coil changes fast and easy I came up with the following system. Each lower rod and coil have the cord fastened near the bottom with just enough slack to flip the coil flat for my carry bag. Then I made the straps shown with adhesive backed Velcro from the $ store. The soft part goes around the middle rod by it’s adhesive backing. But then it extends 2” and the hard part of the Velcro goes on the sticky side of it so one side is hook Velcro and the other side is loop Velcro and then it is trimmed narrower with scissors. I have one of these on either side of the folding mechanism I installed on my box shaft. What saves time in the field is that these straps stay on during coil change and securely fasten the coil wire. Also, in my case with the folding shaft I used zip ties to make a loop in each coils cord to go where the folding mechanism is where the cord never interferes with the folding or unfolding of the shaft. I will keep the other coil in my detector bag so I can change the coil during a detecting outing it the situation warrants it. No big deal but easy enough that others may consider doing this method of strapping. A
  21. Anyone bought the carbon fiber rods for a GPX? Wondering if its worth it and how fragile they are.
  22. Hi all! I've been talking about this for so long, that I figure some of you may have wondered if it was ever actually going to happen, BUT... I am happy to announce that parts for one of the two prototype Equinox complete shafts arrived today, and I finished assembly. I am VERY pleased with the quality of the parts -- especially the clamping cam lock, which was a large portion of the focus for the design. I have done a small amount of testing/evaluation, and I am happy to say at this point that the strength/security of the clamp is impressive, and meets the design intent. Overall, I see nothing about the shaft that needs to be changed/tweaked at this point. I plan to build the second prototype when parts arrive for it on Tuesday, and then will do more testing and evaluation of both shafts. Soon thereafter, I expect to place a "first order" for parts, so that I can begin offering them for sale. Here are a few pictures... Thanks! Steve
  23. Hi all; Just wanted to give a heads-up that while lower rod sales continue at a brisk pace, I'm also nearing completion on the design of the complete carbon-fiber shaft system (that I've hinted about before). I will have two prototypes (using two similar, but slightly different clamping cam-lock systems) built in about 2 weeks (parts are in production now), and then, after some final testing, I'll be ready to ramp up to production mode. I think these will be really nice shafts; my main focus over the past couple of months has been the cam lock system -- specifically the strength/security/stability of the cam lock. The goals are two-fold -- 1.) to eliminate ALL wobble issues experienced by some users with the factory shaft, and 2.) to HOPEFULLY eliminate the spring button/button hole design. While I will continue to offer my lower shafts WITH the spring button (so that my lower rods will remain compatible with Minelab's middle shaft), my expectation is that the clamping cam locks on my shaft will meet the design spec for strength/stability -- which would mean NO BUTTON HOLES REQUIRED in the shaft. The intent of the design has been with an eye toward the final result being somewhat akin to the CTX 3030 type of shaft -- i.e. a secure cam lock, permitting "universal" adjustment lengths for the lower rod. Anyway, I expect to have these shafts ready soon; shortly thereafter, I expect to have a rather unique counter-balancing system available as an optional add-on accessary, to achieve perfect balance for the machine (through the availability of several different weights, each one appropriate for each of the different coils, and for different lower rod adjustment lengths). Finally, a custom arm cuff may also be an optional add-on accessory in the not-too-distant future. I'll offer more information later -- and I also have a more detailed post up on my Facebook page at https://www.facebook.com/stevesdetectorrods if anyone wants more information. Thanks! Steve
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