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  1. I got a very rare metal detecting surprise recently when I was informed of something I automatically never considered. Every detector I have with a cross hatch carbon fiber lower rod, screams with a Garrett pinpointer and even more so if I check that lower rod with my 24K. They told us back in the day metal coil bolts were ok because they did not move in relation to the coil. True perhaps but now we do not use them. They told us metal rods were ok if they do not move in relation to the coil, but all the manufacturers got away from that and went non-conductive. I just assumed that's the way it was and always would be. Now it appears conductive lower rods are back in the form of cross hatch carbon fiber. Is the issue a problem or not? Probably not for most uses, but I’ll bet most nugget hunters ears are really perking up on this news. It's definitely a problem for the Manticore used in Gold Mode. I am looking for alternatives for my Manticore lower rod while nugget detecting as it does have some observed issues regarding false signals when jacked to the max for nugget detecting. Credit for this observation goes to Gerry McMullen and his class members and team. It also is shown by Bill Southern in his video below (Jeff McClendon's post) so I don't know who observed it first. Jeff has experienced it, as have others. Apparently the conductivity of carbon fiber varies greatly depending on how it is made and what additives are used. All I know is my pinpointer goes nuts on the stuff and if it does, that’s a target as far as a detector is concerned. From https://europlas.com.vn/en-US/blog-1/does-carbon-fiber-conduct-electricity ”So, does carbon fiber conduct electricity? Yes, carbon fibers do conduct electricity. The electrical conductivity of carbon fiber is typically improved by incorporating reinforcing materials. Additionally, they can also generate electricity when subjected to magnetic fields.”
  2. There was a big blow up over the discovery that the conductive lower rods now shipping with the Equinox 700, 900, and Manticore can be problematic for gold prospectors and maybe others. The lower rods are surprisingly conductive, and can fire off when the detectors are set in gold mode or high single frequency modes. It is not really a problem for people using modes less sensitive to tiny targets. Most coin, relic, and beach hunters are just fine. However, to make it easy I have a simple test for you. If your detector passes this test, I’m not swearing a conductive rod is not an issue. The test is very conservative in that only the hottest detectors will fail. In the case of the detectors mentioned it is dependent on your settings. What I am swearing therefore is if your detector can’t pass this test, is that you really should not be using a conductive lower rod. steveg is now working on and will have a non-conductive rod option available soon for the three detector models mentioned. I will link directly to it here when he has it for sale. I want to note that this is not really a rod problem. It’s a hot detector problem. The conductive carbon fiber rods are excellent in most applications, and it’s only when you pass a certain sensitivity threshold that they might present issues. This test applies to all detectors, PI or VLF. Official Steve H Conductive Rod Test Set your detector up with your desired settings. Be sure you are not wearing a ring or a watch, cufflinks etc on your test hand. Move your open palm directly around on the bottom of the coil. If the coil signals at all to your bare palm, then I strongly recommend you do not use a conductive lower rod with the settings you are running.
  3. Beach hunters might’ve heard the mighty uproar over at the prospecting side of the forum.. They’ve got their undies all knotted up over their high frequency VLF detectors reacting to carbon rods.. As if they’re the only ones.. Whilst Geotech’s excellent video shows that carbon rods don’t react when the detector is in multi-frequency beach mode (where the rod’s signal is filtered out just like a salt signal), not all beach detectorists hunt exclusively in beach mode.. Nor do they just hunt on beaches.. I for one also hunt gold, silver coins and the occasional bit of ‘old junk’ (relics).. I don’t buy any manufacture’s claim that reactive carbon rods only effects a small, easily disgruntled, part of the metal detecting community.. Prospectors are not the only ones who demand the best performance from their tools.. When I read about this ‘problem’ I straight away started to think about ways to fix it.. Even if there's only a slight chance that a carbon rod is gonna make me miss a gold ring (or anything else!), then to hell with it.. To this end, I’ve put the original lower plastic rod back on my Nox 800 (with a carbon fibre upper rod) to serve as my general purpose detector, whilst the fully carbon fibre Nox 600 stays in beach mode as a beach detector until I can get another plastic lower rod for it.. Just like every other detectorist, I don’t want anything to screw up my chances of finding my favourite bit of metal..
  4. My quest for securing coil cables is over.....I have tried; 1. Electrical tape.....sand sticks and it leaves a gummy residue behind. I am always applying it and taking it off 2. Cable ties......can bite into the cable if too tight and cause damage. Cutting them off is a pain and expense. 3. Cable clips.......can also bite into the cable and sand grinds where it contacts. 4. Velcro.......seriously....too loose and sand plugs the hook and loop constantly. We all pretend the love velcro but we are liars ! Found these at the hardware store the other day by accident........have I been living under a rock all these years. Have my fellow DP members not shared this with me before? Adjustable / easily removable / reusable silicon rubber ties !! Tough and very gentle on the cable.....secure perfectly and tightly. I snipped off a few inches after cinching them down on the cable and shaft. Cheap to buy and if pink is your color then my friend you are covered ! I am in coil cable management utopia........if my wife hadn't asked for kitty litter (for the cat and not her) then this might never have happened. Vegan friendly and NON-CONDUCTIVE !!!! Behold......😍
  5. Whatever the reason, shaft issues, hypersensitive electronics, wrong wiring, I have no idea. But the Manticore sucks in bump senitivity in gold mode. Even when you don't touch anything just strong wind can cause the chatter. I am actually really suprised that the testers did not pic that up. Or, they just had relic hunters test it who never used the gold mode. However, no wind, no touching anything, no fly landing on the coil, and the Manti is brilliant for shallow gold in trashy sites. GC
  6. Phrunt posted a pretty neat Clip he got from China. It works perfect for your Swing Arm. Especially if you have a Minelab Swing Arm that has no convenient way to store the Swing Arm if you don't want to use it. I ordered a sample and it has my approval. So I ordered 550 of them. Price $3.50 plus shipping in the U.S. Unfortunately depending on where you live shipping will probably be more than the clip. Doc
  7. I have a carbon fiber Anderson Over/Under shaft for my Excalibur 2. I typically hunt in water depths varying from knee deep all the way out to chest deep. I am noticing some slight falsing as I am transitioning from the shallower to the deeper waters and vice versa, and I can only attribute it to the water that is retained in the shaft sloshing around next to the detector. When I leave the water and point my coil to the sky, a large amount of water drains out from the back of the over/under shafts. I remember on one of the shafts I had for my Equinox, there was a drainage hole in the lower shaft. My current Anderson lower shaft does not have a drainage hole, and I was wondering if this would help prevent the slight falsing I am getting transitioning from different depths? I guess its easy enough to try and plug if it doesn't work, but I was curious if any other Excalibur users have noticed this?
  8. O-rings work pretty well for locking down the twist locks on the GPX 6000 shaft, but they don’t work perfectly and get really hard to unlock. So in trying to figure out a better way to go, I decided to try something much different. I don’t remember who first mentioned this, but using Detecting Innovations’ Glueless Clamps designed for Tele-Knox Shafts are a really great modification! High Plains Prospectors sells a set containing 2 clamps for $20, and they fit GPX 6000 shaft sections perfectly. For this modification, you have to cut off the two twist locks right up next to each one, and the best way I know to cut carbon fiber shaft tubes is with a basic diamond bladed tile saw so you don’t mess up the fibers. You don’t need water for it either. The shaft clamps work perfectly, and fit very well. You do not need to use glue or anything like that, they simply tighten up with a hex screw that is included with the kit. My 6000 is much more compact and I’ve only lost about 2 inches total from the shaft length by cutting off the twist locks. o
  9. I change coils on my machines quite a bit, always hated the way velcro twists around. I also lost a couple of coils from Nel and Mars as their connectors aren't all that sturdy and the heavy cable wire likes to bunch up which eventually breaks the connections inside the strain reliefs. Something for you guys to think about when winding the cables on the shafts. I came up with a cleat and cast a bunch out of urethane so they are gentle on the wires. So far cleats are working really well for me. I will be shipping a batch out on monday but figured I would post what they look like for those that may want something better. Not sure how well they will work on 3 section shaft systems like the 900 and Manticore have. I have to check that out. Used my initials for the name to add that touch of cheesiness ? Questions, comments etc all welcome. Thanks Ken
  10. Love the box 800 but...the arm cuff is lacking. To big for both my wife and I. It allowed for to much side wobble while swinging. My fix on one is 3/8" felt with cloth glued on. Leather ties keep it in place and can be removed for other users if needed. I needed just a little more room so a 1/4" piece was used. MUCH better. Because of her short arms I also drilled a new hole to move the cuff closer to the handle. Basic ergonomics. Now she is comfortable and will detect for hours.
  11. I just stopped dithering and bought the EQUINOX 900…. now I just hafta learn how to use it…. I’m looking for 2 lower carbon fiber shafts ( the shaft that the coil attaches to )…changing coils on this 900 is a chore…the shafts for the 600-800 will NOT work as they are a different diameter….I’ve contacted several dealers with NO results and have left several messages on Minelabs voice mail, but have had no reply from them….any ideas will be most appreciated….
  12. I finally got around to putting on a carbon fiber shaft that steveg designed for my GPX 5000. Sorry for the long delay Steve ?. I put it on the backup GPX and finally tried it out. The shaft breaks down in the center for easier travel. The 3rd section is a short shaft around 8" that connects to the coil. I wanted to have short shafts on various coils so they would backpack easier when traveling deeper into the woods. We were worried about a clamp that would have to be located right next to the coil, and if that would interfere with the coil. It does not and it still pulled silver at 15+" at a beach site it was tried at. So no worries there. Design and weight of the shaft is top notch. Those of you considering this for a GPX, just remember the main 2 pieces have to be designed for your height, as there is no way to adjust them. The adjustment comes from the 8" coil shaft. So you will only have about 4-5" of usable adjustment. This is necessary to keep the shaft assembly strong. The stock Minelab handle moved slightly for me since, I'm chicken little with it due to breakage. I've cracked too many of them, and I was over cautious of tightening it fully. I will do so in the future. Even though I under tightened the handle it did not move much for the whole hunt. I'm pretty confident the handle fits on it when tightened. Thanks Steve for the great job!
  13. Dropped the detector and the shaft snapped just above the bolt. What are the options? JB Weld? Someone make a new, stronger shaft?
  14. Hi all. I'm looking to build an upgraded shaft suited to some very specific needs. I have all parts EXCEPT the coil mount piece. Does anyone know where I can grab a couple of them cheap? I'm thinking like most Minelab gear, they're probably under some random miscellanies camping equipment spare part name. Obviously Garrett, Nokta, Minelab, Tesoro, Detect-Ed, XP etc have them for their own shafts so they must be readily available somewhere? I've even seen some knockoff cheap shafts coming from China which have them but I can't find the individual part anywhere. Ideas?
  15. I made this for a carbon shaft conversion I did for my Cibola. Requires 4 8-32 x 7/8 screws and nuts and some double face mounting tape ie Gorilla tape or 3m. There is no holes needed to mount on shaft so it is non destructive. I did this because I did not want to drill holes through a carbon shaft because that causes a weak spot. So far the cuff is holing up really well and is very durable. When printing you can use a 10% infill to keep it light. 2 mm wall max is needed. Cuff 22-3mm shaft.zip
  16. This is likely a stupid question, but I'll ask. While I'm not interested in landmines, it seems that some mine detectors fold into those nice-looking and portable packages. Why all(?) civilian detectors that I know of have this standard, less-portable, and more awkward form factor: a coil on a (collapsible) stick with a control box attached?
  17. On June 21 I ordered a locking shoe for my Deus 2 and I paid extra for 2 day shipping. It has now been 2 weeks and I still have not received the item. I have sent them 2 messages and haven’t received any response. Has anyone else had a problem receiving their order from detecting doodads? At this point I am going to contact them through PayPal and request a refund. I don’t know what is going on with them, but their customer service stinks.
  18. steveg has outdone himself again, and produced a "tall man rod" for the GPX 6000, that adds 5" length to the length of the stock rod. At 5'11" I find the stock lower rod to be just long enough, so this will be great for the taller people out there. See The Classifieds If This Link Does Not Work For Latest Ad
  19. Here’s a simple fix for the 6000 twisting shaft issue- just put a 1/8th inch thick dry O-Ring inside each of the locking rings. When you twist the locking rings, the o-rings compresses and tightens up between the shaft locking ring and collet keeping the shaft sections from spinning as easily. I used these two sized o-rings (in inches): 13/16 x 1-1/16 x 1/8 3/4 x 1 x 1/8 Fully unscrew each plastic locking ring and separate each rod, leaving the plastic locking rings in place on them and put the o-rings on. Be sure the o-rings fit snuggly but not too tight around each rod as shown below. Then insert the rods back in place and reconnect the threaded locking rings with the o-rings between the two parts. The o-rings will slip between the plastic collets and the ring wall as you screw on the locking ring. When the locking ring gets hand-tight, the o-rings will provide more locking force between the rod sections so they can’t spin as easily.
  20. Hot weather kept me in most the summer so I got bored. Wasn't happy with the frankenshaft I had put together for my Cibola so I snagged the all carbon S-Shaft from Steve G. Carbon shaft alone is only 8.6oz!! You can see the taper on it that I needed to make an adapter plate; Plate I may redo and refine it later and make it bit lighter as I over built it as usual. Next I made the cuff: Finally because I ordered the shaft with the back too long I had to trim a couple inches off. Final pics of complete machine: Total weight including the 10.5 oz Shrew is 2.1lbs. If I remake the adapter I can get it to the 2lb mark. The adapter plate and cuff use pocketed screws and bolts and internally there is a recess for industrial adhesive tape. I did not want to glue or put screws through the carbon in case I needed to remove a part so nothing is permenant.
  21. Got my very durable beach rod set for the Deus 2. This has great features. *Antenna run through the center of the shaft [Steves yoke mount has a hole in the center] . *Original coil bolts are used with washers on both sides. *Hand grip with stress washer on top. *The pod can be turned slightly from left to right depending on which hand you want to use. Added Anderson arm cuff. *Cam locking clamp. *Also, no holes in the shafts except for where the antenna comes out. I will be using the Gig's modification for attaching the antenna to the coil with adhesive and keeping water out of the antenna wire. This has already been tested by me. Both on land with and without antenna connection and in the water without any performance loss. I would like to thank Steve from Steve's rods for helping me make a great strong Deus 2 beach set-up.
  22. Hi all, (I apologize in advance if there is already post(s) re this. I haven't been able to find one.) I live on a rocky island in New England (the shale at its end has been traced to west Africa). As such, damage to equipment is expected. That being said, I'm hoping to find a shaft for my Nox 800 that routes cables from the coil internally. Obviously, if there are multiple options, the lighter the better so long as the shaft is durable. I could have sworn that I had come across at least one carbon fiber shaft that fir the bill when I first bought my Equinox ~1½ years back, but can't find them. Any help and guidance towards shaft(s) that fit the durable witj internally routed cable will be extremely appreciated. Thanks in advance for taking the time to read this post and advise me, Kurt
  23. This is not an upgrade situation for present owners , only a request on behalf of future purchasers .I find that the “dog ears “stand does not do the job .The machine almost always falls over ,normally towards me .I like my machine to sit upright when I place it down on the ground .To my mind the dog ears need to be wider apart to prevent this from happening .
  24. I do not care for the Velcro style coil cable straps that every manufacturer gives you to secure you coil cable so I did a search and found something different to secure my coil cable to the detector shaft and they work great https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B09SZ4L4LR/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1
  25. I know this topic has come up here a few times and there are some of us out there who prefer an S shaft. We have debated the benefits of the straight vs S shaft, counter balancing, offered Frankenstein solutions, discussed the limited available options. When Steve announced he was working on an S shaft option for Equinox, and mentioned he was looking for testers, I jumped at the chance to try this out. I provided Steve my thoughts on the prototype I received from another tester in Florida, exchanged a few messages. Great guy to work with. I believe the prototype shaft was only getting one small tweak so I immediately placed my order. Couldn’t wait to get my production version! A few days later, Steve had my S shaft built and in the mail. Behold the Equinox S shaft from Steve’s Detector Rods! I opted for black red color and no counterweight but I believe he is offering that option on this shaft same as on the straight shafts. I’d also like to thank Steve for listening to us and now offering this beautifully executed solution! Some pictures for your enjoyment below.
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