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Found 64 results

  1. Me! I'm the automated assembly line. Only 1700 more to assemble. I can't keep up with orders. Your dealers should have more this week if you have been waiting for the SAGA™. I can't tell you how over the moon excited my wife is that I have completely taken over our dining room table. (Not really.) I have not seen any field reports from people who have purchased the Swing Assist Guide Arm yet. I would love to hear some news. Thanks gang! Doc
  2. A few weeks ago, I started conversing with Steveg (www.stevesdetectorrods.com) about building me a complete carbon fiber shaft replacement with counterweight attachment for my Equinox 800. Well it arrived today, and I thought I would share my impressions. First of all, let me say that the entire process of ordering a shaft from Steve was absolutely wonderful! Extremely thoughtful, articulate, and maybe most importantly, timely communications. From the very first email, I felt I was valued as a customer, and that Steve truly cared not only about me, but about the product he produces as well. The shaft arrived today via priority mail, and was very well packaged. I ordered the bright blue option because, hey, I like blue! The material is stunning, and the workmanship on the shaft is impeccable. Fit and finish are gorgeous. The Equinox weight before disassembly came in at 1354 grams with the stock shaft and stock coil. The stock shaft components on their own weigh 295 grams, while the new carbon fiber shaft weighs 225 grams without the counterbalance. Final weight of the detector with the new shaft sans counterbalance is 1284 grams, for a 70 gram weight reduction. Assembling the Equinox components onto the new shaft was a piece of cake. All the hole locations for mounting the components were perfectly aligned and properly sized, and the cam-lock hardware works flawlessly. The 70 gram difference is very noticeable when swinging the detector, but it really starts to shine when you add the counterbalance attachment. With the stock coil, swinging becomes almost effortless and the balance is such that the coil feels weightless. It really is quite amazing! My shoulder and neck are already thanking me.😍 And there is no wobble or flex in the shaft at all. If you are looking for an upgrade to your Equinox, I can't recommend this enough! And doing business with Steve is truly a joy. My only regret is I don't have another detector to upgrade! When I do, I'll be giving Steve a call! Bash says, run, don't walk, to your computer or phone, and order one for yourself! You won't regret it!
  3. The first aftermarket shaft I got for my Equinox was a Golden mask telescoping shaft. The early version took a lot of crude adapting to make work. Later versions had custom adapters made for a more finished product. I also ended up getting a TeleNox telescoping rod. https://www.detectorprospector.com/forums/topic/6247-equinox-golden-mask-shaft-conversion/ https://www.detectorprospector.com/forums/topic/8628-new-minelab-micronox/ https://www.detectorprospector.com/forums/topic/10299-tele-nox-rods/ https://www.detectorprospector.com/forums/topic/10716-aftermarket-shafts-for-in-water-use/ Between the two they are both fine but I like the Golden Mask version a little more. A bit stouter, no flex, and less levers and other moving parts. The plus for the Telenox is it is directly compatible with the Equinox rod size and therefore the pod/handle swaps over with no fuss. The Golden Mask requires the adapter and its own armrest due to the larger rod diameter. The Telenox starts with the smaller rod and so the last section is thinner than with the Golden Mask, which starts with a larger diameter rod (a need for adapter) but then ends with a larger diameter rod section also. There was a final Golden Mask kit you could buy that had everything you need, but now it seems to be no longer available. So what did I do a while back? I know much better than to ever leave my detector leaning on the rear end of my truck. But I did it anyway and backed over the detector. Right over the pod. Crushed the handle completely! A testament to the Equinox is after I pried the pod out of the ground it still worked. I had to clamp and glue the lower part of the face back to the housing later but it is still working fine. But the rod was a total loss. All I scavenged was the adapter parts and the armrest. With no more Golden Mast complete assembly available, after lots of Googling I found what looked like a possible replacement rod and took a gamble and ordered it. If nothing else I figured I would end up with a new walking stick. $46 delivered from Amazon. I got lucky - seems to be the same rod, except if anything of higher quality. I peeled off the foam hand grip and removed the last rod section, which is too small and makes it too long anyway. I am lucky in that I have a lot of Equinox lower rods sitting around, because I had to cut and grind the part needed to bolt this rod to a coil from a spare lower rod. That could be a tad expensive otherwise. I glued it into the lower rod opening, drilled the new armrest holes and bolted it on, and used the adapter to add the Equinox pod/handle. Finished item is probably a little nicer than what I ran over, same exact length, etc. That worked out quite well and at $46 a lot cheaper than if I had been able to find a new Golden mask assembly. But like I said, I had all the other parts required. If you got this rod, the Equinox handle and armrest will not adapter directly to it. Bonus is I have a nice case for the rod when not in use, and an adapter sticking out of the end that I am going to use to create a removable coil counterweight. Not needed at all for the 6" coil, but nice for the larger coils. Custom carbon fiber telescoping rod for Minelab Equinox Custom carbon fiber telescoping rod for Minelab Equinox
  4. Hey gang, How many of you have old or extra lower rod to an SD/GP/GPX Excalibur, Sovereign laying around? The reason I ask is because I am getting a lot of interest in the SAGA™ from overseas, especially AUSTRALIA. however, the big bug-a-boo, is the cost of shipping. Because the package is over 24 inches long the postal service charges an enormous surcharge. Shipping for one SAGA rod is literally $66. I about choked. Now it just so happens, I was thinking ahead on this issue, and I made the SAGA so it would also use a spare fiberglass rod from an SD/GP/GPX Excalibur Sovereign etc. It fits perfectly. If an international customer could supply their own rod, I could just send a parts bag including a 1 ounce tube of Silicone sealant to glue the handle on and shipping would only be $32. USD. And get this, if a customer ordered two parts packages, the shipping would still only be $32 shipping for two packages. So if you had a mate that wanted a SAGA, you could share the cost of shipping. The only thing the customer would have to do is cut off the head of the rod they have where it attaches to the coil. The other end has the adjustment button which on most if not all Minelab lower rods is metal. That's not good because that adjustment button end is the part that goes into the SAGA pivot joint close to the coil. However, I would just include a plastic button to replace the Minelab metal button. So bottom line is I wonder how many people have those extra lower rods laying around or how readily available they are and if offering that option of the parts bag would be more attractive for an international customers than paying $66 for shipping? I know I wouldn't pay $66 USD for shipping. Actually the same goes for U.S. it cuts shipping from around $12 on a package going to New York to about $6, by eliminating the rod. It only makes sense if you have an extra rod laying around, if you have to buy a rod especially for that reason Minelab charges $42 for a lower fiberglass rod. Really interested in hearing from forum members in Australia. Doc
  5. On the TDI Pro the upper handle was a bolt on assembly with separate part numbers The prototype models has a straight shaft, and the production models an S shaft. In either case you could remove the handle via four bolts to hip or chest mount the control box. Since the production models went S shaft, there were aftermarket straight shafts. Here is the Anderson aftermarket straight shaft for the TDI Pro: https://www.seriousdetecting.com/product/anderson-whites-tdi-metal-detector-black-carbon-fiber-shaft/ Does anyone have any part numbers for the original TDI upper handle? The SL models the handle does not normally separate (attaches from inside the control box) and so only White’s or White’s dealers would have access to the part number for the upper straight shaft or S shaft. The straight middle shaft 500-0288-1 or S shaft 802-5213 is standard on many whites detectors, and there is a “tall man” version 500-0240-1 of the S shaft. Does anyone know or have access to part numbers for the handle on the TDI SL, either straight or S shaft? The TDI Beachunter uses a removable shaft that can probably be retrofitted to the SL models with some drilling. This appears to be the White’s Diver Rod Kit, part # 802-5195-1, with straight middle shaft 500-0288-1 added, and may retrofit to the SL with some drilling. White’s Diver Rod Kit One of the best deals going in a rod assembly for years has been the Whites Space Saver Rod Kit for Classics and Early Goldmaster models, part number 802-5236. This may also retrofit the the SL and is in any case a good way to get some Whites Rod parts cheap. While they last. White’s Space Saver Rod Kit If anyone has any information they can add about any TDI model rod or shaft parts, now would be a great time to archive it while it’s still halfway easy to track down.
  6. If you think the SAGA™ is just a Swing Arm, it's not. It's a steering wheel for your detector. Start at the 3-minute mark on the video, and watch what the unique design of the SAGA can make your detector do. If you know of any device on the market that gives you this kind of control please let me know, because I know of nothing that even comes close. If what you see intrigues you then watch the entire video. You're going to find that the SAGA will make detecting much easier and less stressful on your body and give you control over your detector you have never had before. - Doc
  7. I want everyone to know about the great service & advice I have received from Steve's Detector Rods! Yes there are other replacement rod companies out there but I can tell you that "steveg" stands by his product 100%. I had an issue with one of his older shafts. The bolt started to rust. As soon as Steve found out, he ordered a higher grade stainless and sent me one free of charge! On my couter-weighted Equinox shaft, I dropped it and busted the counter-weight off and Steve as soon as I contacted Steve about purchasing a replacement, he sent it out that day! He is very easy to communicate issues or questions and I can't say enough good things for how he has helped me out!
  8. I'm not going to bore you with the details of the first attempt. Valuable exercise because the New SAGA™ really is exceptional, if I don't say so myself. If you currently use a Swing Arm, you will throw it away when you use this one. • No more breakage at the pivot point where Swing Arms attach to the detector. The SAGA™ is designed with a pivot point that allows for the typical movement that allows you to swing the arm out and away from the detector, but it also is designed with a rotating Pivot Joint that allows for up and down movement of the arm. This eliminates breakage, but it also gives you better control over the coil on your detector. (Watch the 2nd video start at 6:30 minutes) • No more wishing there was a Swing Arm that would fit your detector with it's weird shaped rod (SDC2300). Nothing could be more weird than the upper part of a GPZ7000, yet look at the picture to see how well it fits even that weird shape. The unique design of the attachment base, allows you to easily attach it to regular round rods, or irregular shaped large rods, depending on how you thread the UV resistant rubber straps. • No more trying to store the arm, if you need your hand to do something else. The SAGA™ has a proper storage clip. • Feel like detecting without the Swing Arm for a while? No worries! Push a button remove the rod and handle from your detector and stow it away until you decide to use it again. • You're a tall person and you like the rod long, or you're a short person and like the rod short? Got you covered. You can easily trim the rod to the perfect length then glue the handle on with the included 1 ounce tube of silicone sealant. If you have never used a Swing Arm, well, you are spending a lot of energy swinging one handed and you are unnecessarily stressing one side of your body, your arm, neck, and shoulders. When you take a walk, do you use both legs or do you hop on one? If you are hopping around all day, that one leg is getting mighty tired. That's why using your muscles bi-laterally helps fight fatigue and strain. Not only that, but you will never have so much control over your detector. You will execute perfectly level controlled swings effortlessly, when you are using both hands. Watch the videos to better understand the unique design of the Swing Assist Guide Arm. It's the last Swing Arm you will ever need, or want! Retail $74.94 Discounted Introductory price $59.95 plus s&h Watch the videos below. On the second video go to around 6:30 minutes mark to see the kind of control the SAGA™ gives you over your detector. Call your favorite dealer today! Thank you for your patience and all of your suggestions. Doc
  9. I know Jeff’s been making these for long time but I just had to mention how impressed I am w his work. I don’t know why I never got one of these for the Explorer or Etrac but sure glad I got it for the Safari! I really like the stand too, it’s a lot wider, keeps the machine from falling over and puts it a little higher too. I’ll probably take the factory stand off,,, eventually.
  10. I really needed the Equinox on a collapsible shaft so that I can put it in my backpack or stow it on the Rokon for riding cross country. I already had the Golden Mask shaft that I had modified for the Deus, so I started tinkering. The original Equinox shaft has a smaller diameter than the Golden Mask, so the shaft mounts will not mate up directly. I took the dremel tool and relieved the areas around the screw holes just enough to get the Nox handle brain/screen section to snug up to the Mask shaft. I removed the original Mask handle and fitted the Nox in the same location. (Mask handle is bolted and glued to the shaft, it takes some work to get them apart.) I then used longer NOX sized metric bolts (shown below) snugged them into the NOX handle around the Mask shaft. Its a very tight fit so the bolts end up a little bent. I then cut the heads off the bolts to make them more or less studs. I cut and drilled a hose clamp band, fitted it over the studs, then pulled them down tight over the shaft with a nut and washer combination. I added a little black paint and the whole thing is really stable. I'll had a little black Duct tape to the whole mess so that it doesn't hang up on my shirt or pants. It collapses to 24 inches and fully extends to about 50 inches. The Golden Mask shafts are all carbon fiber so corrosion, weight and shaft wobble are not a problem. I gave it a test run this morning was quite impressed. For whatever reason I can not explain, my bump falsing was cut by about half. That was the first thing I noticed so I went through all the set up functions to make sure I hadn't accidentally changed something like Sens or Recovery. Nope, all my same settings, but now a noticeable reduction in bump sensitivity. I don't know how, but I'm liking it a whole lot better now.
  11. I know there's a long and old thread discussing this topic and other Equinox ergonomics but I decided not to bury this post there. In the last few months I've had some minor issues with the elbow on my swing arm ("tennis elbow" according to my doctor) but worse, recently I've been having wrist pain on the same arm. I don't know if the latter is related to detecting but it reminded me of the above linked discussion (and others) about S- vs. straight-shafts. I don't know if the mod I now describe is new. (After 2 years in the users' hands I would have thought not, but don't recall it on this site, anyway.) Here's a picture of the almost finished garage mod: In a nutshell, I've replaced the two lower sections of the Equinox shaft with the two lower sections of the Minelab X-Terra shaft. Now I'll start at the bottom and work my way up, describing the differences. Coil to shaft attachment: Surprisingly (because it seems like Minelab changes dimensions, etc. on every new detector) the gap between the ears is almost a perfect fit. It seems to be slightly looser with this mod, but that may be simply due to wear on the gaskets. I measured the shaft's widths and they are very close, possibly about 0.005 inches (~0.1 mm) different. Different gaskets or just a metal or plastic shim could tighten things up, but for now I'm not going to do that. Next is the screw/bolt and nut. The X-Terra had a nominal 1/4 inch diamter bolt while the Eqx is larger, (I think it's 8 mm, slightly larger than the SAE 5/16 inch). Again, until I find out otherwise I'm not going to be concerned about this as the smaller bolt goes through both parts just fine. Lower shaft section composition: The Eqx has a carbon fiber lower shaft section whereas the X-Terra has an aluminum shaft with a plastic extension/insert for the coil attachment section. I did a quick test-garden check and the mod didn't appear to give any deterioration in performance. 5 in. deep penny and 6 in. deep US nickel, in moderately mineralized soil, I could turn gain down to 5 and still (barely) hear both in Park 1, recovery speed = 5, Iron Bias F2 = 5. Again, at this point good enough for me. Middle shaft section: This is the S-section. The smaller diameter of this part is why you can't use the Equinox's lower section -- its diameter is too large to mate with the X-Terra S-section. Middle shaft section (X-Terra) to upper shaft section (Equinox) mating: This is where things get a bit more complicated. The O.D. of the X-Terra shafts is right at 3/4 (0.75) inch whereas the Equinox is ~0.78 in. This 0.03 (~3/4 mm) difference is not acceptable as is. I used 0.0015 in thick copper tape to build up the X-Terra shaft. The tape's adhesive adds some thickness as well. I needed 15 inch length of tape for a complete wrap to make up the difference. (Note: I'm going to add another equivalent wrap above the alignment pin as well, but as of now -- shown in the photo -- I only have the one wrap.) Next, note that the X-Terra has two alignment pins compared to the single one for the Equinox. Turns out they are 90 degrees out-of-phase. In addition, the pin size (and thus hole diameter required) is different, this time slightly larger on the X-Terra. I'm going to drill two opposing holes in the upper Equinox shaft. Again it appears that the X-Terra was made to SAE dimensions and a 1/4 inch hole is the right size. To make sure I don't get more hole than I need, and to avoid the sloppy 'triangular' hole that standard jobber drill bits tend to make in thin sheet metal, I've ordered a 1/4 inch reamer from Amazon for the job. Weight difference: The X-Terra lower sections and the attachement bolts & nuts are 80 g. (~2 2/3 oz. or ~0.2 lb) heavier than the equivalent Equinox pieces. I assume this is due at least in part to the carbon fiber composition but the tubing (and other pieces) may also be contributing. Potential concerns: I start by pointing out that I'm not a beach/water hunter. Apparently the drag, etc. in that form of detecting puts more mechanical stress on the connections and parts in general. In particular, drilling two more holes for the alignment pins in the upper section shaft (which unfortunately are located right at the same location as the already present hole) will result in a weakening of the shaft there. I don't think that will be an issue for me, but water hunters (who apparently prefer straight shafts anyway) could be scared away from this mod. I suppose one might be able to buy a replacement upper section from Minelab.... Those holes are the only thing that keeps this mod from being purely 100% reversible and assuming they don't result in future breakage, I have the best of both worlds. (Of course it helps to have an X-Terra sitting around collecting dust!)
  12. It was the last straw for a detector that tips over on any and every bit uneven ground. It actually worked not so bad. If anybody needs to just get through the day, you could give this a try. Fifty cents of nylon braided rope, a juniper branch, and some good, old-fashioned Boy Scout lashing. Just make sure the frapping is good and snug. It might work even slightly better to carve a groove for the shaft into the stick. If it loosens a little, just re-frap and you’re good to go. Yes, there are more elegant manufactured versions available, but isn’t the saying “frustration is the mother of invention”?
  13. I think I'm going to need to invest in the tall man lower shaft for this E trac, I'm 6' 4" and I have the lower shaft extended as far as it can go and its wobbly now ....
  14. Hi all!I wanted to mention several things that may be of interest.First of all, as some know, I've been working on making colored shafts available regularly, as a "special order" item. I recently ordered a "test batch" of colored tubes, and all of the colored shafts produced from these tubes have been sold, except one -- it's in the "red/black" color, and I will post a picture of it a bit later.Second, I have several customers requesting colored shafts, so I'm looking to put together a new order for colored tubes from my supplier, in the next week to 10 days or so. I would like to get as many customers as are interested, to let me know, as my supplier would like as a large of an order as possible. So, IF YOU ARE INTERESTED IN A COLORED SHAFT, please let me know. Here is a picture of the available colors...Finally, I just received parts that will allow me to re-stock inventory on the standard (black) Equinox complete shafts; I also have CTX 3030 lower rods, and Equinox lower rods, available as well. Please let me know if you are interested -- sending me an email is the best way to get in touch, at steve@stevesdetectorrods.com.THANKS!Steve
  15. I am one of those people who have always found the armrest of the Garrett Ace and AT models to be just a hair short for my liking. This would include what I’m seeing on the new Ace Apex. Years ago a guy was making and selling an item called the Garrett Gizmo, a machined metal extension for the armrest. It not only made the armrest longer but acted as a counterweight making the detectors less nose heavy. Unfortunately he must of machined up a limited number, as there are no recent internet references that I can find. It seems to have disappeared. Does anyone know where to get one of these or something like it? If not, here is an accessory sales opportunity for somebody. Garrett Gizmo
  16. I'm not shy about it. Yup. I have big clumsy feet. The good news is it gives me stabilizing ballast should sobriety forsake me. The bad news is it's hell on GPZ 7000 lower shafts. I have broken several. To make matters worse, the lines of communication between my big feet and my small command and control center often get disrupted somewhere between my gullet and my gizzard which allows my big feet to proceed on a different heading than the rest of me. Oops, there goes another GPZ 7000 lower shaft. But I don't take full responsibility for all of these broken lower shafts. I don't recall ever breaking the good ol' GPX lower shaft and they fit at least 10 different detectors and cost less than half of a GPZ lower shaft. So I lay most of the blame at the feet of Minelab and not because of the feet of Klunker. The shaft is just plain flimsy. Being a "tight wad" by nature I have tried numerous times to repair a broken lower shaft using glues, epoxies, tape, splints and every flavor of bubble gum you can imagine. Nothing worked. I finally came up with the idea of totally replacing the lower end of the shaft and it work splendidly. This was made from an inch and a quarter by 1 inch pvc plastic pipe tee, a fine toothed saw, a drill, a round file, a sander, a heat gun and a bit of good epoxy. This repair has held up for a couple of dozen trips and survived the icy conditions of early spring detecting, which is when my big feet are at their worst. If anyone is interested I will post instructions
  17. Have been looking at this on Ebay and decided to order one today to try out! We will see how it functions! I currently don't have a proper shop, or else i would probably make one myself, out of an old nylon cutting board! If it works out, i may make a few for my other detectors! But for now, I'll just purchase!👍
  18. Hi, all! I just wanted to mention that in the spirit of the Holidays, Steve's Detector Rods will be giving away one carbon-fiber complete Equinox shaft (upper shaft and lower rod), AND one carbon-fiber Equinox lower rod, to two lucky U.S. winners. Two separate drawings will be held on Dec. 18, one for the complete shaft, and a second for the lower rod. Entry into the drawings is completely free, with no purchase required -- and the entry period is open from now, through 11:59 PM on Sunday, Dec. 15. Additionally, ALL entrants into either drawing will qualify to receive 10% off of any item purchased through Steve's, for the entire month of December. For additional information, including details and eligibility, please visit Steve's Facebook page, at https://www.facebook.com/stevesdetectorrods Thanks! Steve
  19. Hi all! I just wanted to let everyone know that I have finally been able to kick into shaft production mode, after the last of the long-awaited parts shipment arrived last Wednesday. Shaft building has been underway since, and I'm happy to say that I've managed to start shipping a first handful of shafts to customers on the wait list. Everyone who has contacted me in the past, and had their name added to the wait list requesting a shaft from the "first batch," has been contacted; each of these customers' shafts are compete -- and are now in the midst of a few days worth of epoxy-cure time. I expect all customers on the wait list, who requested a shaft from the first batch and have been contacted within the past week, will have their shafts ready to ship by Wendesday or Thursday. MEANWHILE, I have more than enough parts to build a couple of dozen shafts beyond those allocated to customers currently on my wait list. So, if you are interested in purchasing a shaft, please contact me, or be on the lookout for a "for sale" ad in the classified forum later this week. Finally, I have typed up a couple of detailed documents as well -- one providing lots of information on the counterweights (including assistance/advice on how to choose the "right" length/weight for your personal needs), and then a second document discussing the "spring button hole" option that is being offered, for those who feel they may wish to still utilize the spring button in the lower shaft. Please contact me if you would like to receive either or both of these two documents, or if you have any other questions regarding the new, complete carbon-fiber shafts now available for your Minelab Equinox! THANKS! Steve www.stevesdetectorrods.com (see the "what's new" section for complete shaft information) www.facebook.com/stevesdetectorrods
  20. After using equinox for a year and a half on the beach, I thought it was time to use it also in the mountains, if on the beach the original rod can be fine, in the mountains it is very uncomfortable, I thought of finding a way to reduce it, I had a photographic manfrotto with almost triangular rod, the upper part of the equinox electronics could adapt to the rod but the lower part did not, I looked for something at home that could replace the lower part, an easily foldable aluminum sheet and four knob screws obtained from connectors F for TV and brass screws, in order to easily detach it, the coil attachment and the shaft are of an ace250, the result can be seen in the photos, 570 mm long, easily transportable, it could have been done better but I don't have a 3d printer . Now I have two Nox800s, one for the beach and one for the mountain.
  21. This is pretty simple. Straight shaft, or some kind of curved shaft? The most common curved shaft is the S rod but there are others. Please vote in the poll so it tallies results but if you want to add commentary/particulars that is great.
  22. Hi all!I wanted to give an update on the GARRETT shafts (middle and lower sections) that I've been working on, at Steve's Detector Rods. The first batch of 10 prototypes are complete (I made them in four different colors -- black, green/black, red/black and blue/black), and I am VERY pleased with the result -- I think they have turned out great! The two shaft sections are connected by one of my heavy-duty clamp-type cam locks (as used on my Equinox shafts), which eliminates the twist-lock and the spring button/button-hole design that is used for attachment of these two shaft sections, on the Garrett shaft.AS A RESULT, my shaft offers four benefits over the stock middle and lower shaft sections... LIGHTER WEIGHT. My carbon-fiber middle and lower shaft sections offer a 20% weight reduction over the stock Garrett middle and lower sections. (My two-piece shaft weighs 5 ounces +/- .1 oz or so, whereas Garrett's two sections weigh 6.1 ounces +/- .1 oz or so). FASTER/EASIER INSTALLATION AND SHAFT LENGTH ADJUSTMENT. With no twist lock and no spring button/button holes to fumble with, attachment of the lower shaft to the middle shaft is quick and easy; simply flip open the clamping lever on the cam lock, insert the lower rod section into the middle shaft section, and lock the clamping lever closed! UNLIMITED ADJUSTMENT LENGTH OF THE LOWER ROD SECTION. Again, with no spring button/button holes on the shaft, you can quickly and easily adjust the lower rod to ANY desired length, as opposed to having your lower rod adjustment length confined to pre-determined button-hole locations. IMPROVED AESTHETICS/VISUAL APPEARANCE. The high-quality, attractive look of carbon fiber offers an upgrade the look of your Garrett machine. And, you can add even more visual appeal -- making your AT- or Ace-series machine really "stand out" from the crowd -- by choosing one of a number of custom colors for your carbon-fiber shaft. A green/black prototype shaft is pictured, below! If you have any interest in upgrading to a carbon-fiber shaft for your AT- or Ace-series machine from Garrett, contact me via PM, by email at steve@stevesdetectorrods.com, or via Facebook message (www.facebook.com/stevesdetectorrods).THANKS!Steve
  23. I often hike the woods to get to old home sites, so I carry my detector and gear in a backpack. Rather than disassembling and reassembling every time it’s much better to have something that allows you to collapse or fold the detector so that it will fit in the backpack, and also take less time to get ready to use or pack up. Of the two types-telescoping shafts, and folding shafts, I think the folding is better. First, it costs less, about $50 for the part. Second, it takes one motion while depressing a button to get ready for use whereas both ends of the telescoping have to be unlocked positioned and locked again. Also with folded, the height is always maintained- not so with telescoping. The folding unit adds about 5 oz of weight to the lower mid section, but is not significant. As for strength, I’ve not noticed any slack or wobble at all. I only bring this up for those who want a collapsing detector to show there is an option other than the telescoping ones advertised. And also to say I think the folding style is in my opinion better. What do you think?
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