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Gear In Use:

  1. Phrunt posted a pretty neat Clip he got from China. It works perfect for your Swing Arm. Especially if you have a Minelab Swing Arm that has no convenient way to store the Swing Arm if you don't want to use it. I ordered a sample and it has my approval. So I ordered 550 of them. Price $3.50 plus shipping in the U.S. Unfortunately depending on where you live shipping will probably be more than the clip. Doc
  2. I have a carbon fiber Anderson Over/Under shaft for my Excalibur 2. I typically hunt in water depths varying from knee deep all the way out to chest deep. I am noticing some slight falsing as I am transitioning from the shallower to the deeper waters and vice versa, and I can only attribute it to the water that is retained in the shaft sloshing around next to the detector. When I leave the water and point my coil to the sky, a large amount of water drains out from the back of the over/under shafts. I remember on one of the shafts I had for my Equinox, there was a drainage hole in the lower shaft. My current Anderson lower shaft does not have a drainage hole, and I was wondering if this would help prevent the slight falsing I am getting transitioning from different depths? I guess its easy enough to try and plug if it doesn't work, but I was curious if any other Excalibur users have noticed this?
  3. O-rings work pretty well for locking down the twist locks on the GPX 6000 shaft, but they don’t work perfectly and get really hard to unlock. So in trying to figure out a better way to go, I decided to try something much different. I don’t remember who first mentioned this, but using Detecting Innovations’ Glueless Clamps designed for Tele-Knox Shafts are a really great modification! High Plains Prospectors sells a set containing 2 clamps for $20, and they fit GPX 6000 shaft sections perfectly. For this modification, you have to cut off the two twist locks right up next to each one, and the best way I know to cut carbon fiber shaft tubes is with a basic diamond bladed tile saw so you don’t mess up the fibers. You don’t need water for it either. The shaft clamps work perfectly, and fit very well. You do not need to use glue or anything like that, they simply tighten up with a hex screw that is included with the kit. My 6000 is much more compact and I’ve only lost about 2 inches total from the shaft length by cutting off the twist locks. o
  4. I change coils on my machines quite a bit, always hated the way velcro twists around. I also lost a couple of coils from Nel and Mars as their connectors aren't all that sturdy and the heavy cable wire likes to bunch up which eventually breaks the connections inside the strain reliefs. Something for you guys to think about when winding the cables on the shafts. I came up with a cleat and cast a bunch out of urethane so they are gentle on the wires. So far cleats are working really well for me. I will be shipping a batch out on monday but figured I would post what they look like for those that may want something better. Not sure how well they will work on 3 section shaft systems like the 900 and Manticore have. I have to check that out. Used my initials for the name to add that touch of cheesiness 🙂 Questions, comments etc all welcome. Thanks Ken
  5. Love the box 800 but...the arm cuff is lacking. To big for both my wife and I. It allowed for to much side wobble while swinging. My fix on one is 3/8" felt with cloth glued on. Leather ties keep it in place and can be removed for other users if needed. I needed just a little more room so a 1/4" piece was used. MUCH better. Because of her short arms I also drilled a new hole to move the cuff closer to the handle. Basic ergonomics. Now she is comfortable and will detect for hours.
  6. I just stopped dithering and bought the EQUINOX 900…. now I just hafta learn how to use it…. I’m looking for 2 lower carbon fiber shafts ( the shaft that the coil attaches to )…changing coils on this 900 is a chore…the shafts for the 600-800 will NOT work as they are a different diameter….I’ve contacted several dealers with NO results and have left several messages on Minelabs voice mail, but have had no reply from them….any ideas will be most appreciated….
  7. I finally got around to putting on a carbon fiber shaft that steveg designed for my GPX 5000. Sorry for the long delay Steve 😶. I put it on the backup GPX and finally tried it out. The shaft breaks down in the center for easier travel. The 3rd section is a short shaft around 8" that connects to the coil. I wanted to have short shafts on various coils so they would backpack easier when traveling deeper into the woods. We were worried about a clamp that would have to be located right next to the coil, and if that would interfere with the coil. It does not and it still pulled silver at 15+" at a beach site it was tried at. So no worries there. Design and weight of the shaft is top notch. Those of you considering this for a GPX, just remember the main 2 pieces have to be designed for your height, as there is no way to adjust them. The adjustment comes from the 8" coil shaft. So you will only have about 4-5" of usable adjustment. This is necessary to keep the shaft assembly strong. The stock Minelab handle moved slightly for me since, I'm chicken little with it due to breakage. I've cracked too many of them, and I was over cautious of tightening it fully. I will do so in the future. Even though I under tightened the handle it did not move much for the whole hunt. I'm pretty confident the handle fits on it when tightened. Thanks Steve for the great job!
  8. Dropped the detector and the shaft snapped just above the bolt. What are the options? JB Weld? Someone make a new, stronger shaft?
  9. Hi all. I'm looking to build an upgraded shaft suited to some very specific needs. I have all parts EXCEPT the coil mount piece. Does anyone know where I can grab a couple of them cheap? I'm thinking like most Minelab gear, they're probably under some random miscellanies camping equipment spare part name. Obviously Garrett, Nokta, Minelab, Tesoro, Detect-Ed, XP etc have them for their own shafts so they must be readily available somewhere? I've even seen some knockoff cheap shafts coming from China which have them but I can't find the individual part anywhere. Ideas?
  10. I made this for a carbon shaft conversion I did for my Cibola. Requires 4 8-32 x 7/8 screws and nuts and some double face mounting tape ie Gorilla tape or 3m. There is no holes needed to mount on shaft so it is non destructive. I did this because I did not want to drill holes through a carbon shaft because that causes a weak spot. So far the cuff is holing up really well and is very durable. When printing you can use a 10% infill to keep it light. 2 mm wall max is needed. Cuff 22-3mm shaft.zip
  11. This is likely a stupid question, but I'll ask. While I'm not interested in landmines, it seems that some mine detectors fold into those nice-looking and portable packages. Why all(?) civilian detectors that I know of have this standard, less-portable, and more awkward form factor: a coil on a (collapsible) stick with a control box attached?
  12. On June 21 I ordered a locking shoe for my Deus 2 and I paid extra for 2 day shipping. It has now been 2 weeks and I still have not received the item. I have sent them 2 messages and haven’t received any response. Has anyone else had a problem receiving their order from detecting doodads? At this point I am going to contact them through PayPal and request a refund. I don’t know what is going on with them, but their customer service stinks.
  13. steveg has outdone himself again, and produced a "tall man rod" for the GPX 6000, that adds 5" length to the length of the stock rod. At 5'11" I find the stock lower rod to be just long enough, so this will be great for the taller people out there. See The Classifieds If This Link Does Not Work For Latest Ad
  14. Here’s a simple fix for the 6000 twisting shaft issue- just put a 1/8th inch thick dry O-Ring inside each of the locking rings. When you twist the locking rings, the o-rings compresses and tightens up between the shaft locking ring and collet keeping the shaft sections from spinning as easily. I used these two sized o-rings (in inches): 13/16 x 1-1/16 x 1/8 3/4 x 1 x 1/8 Fully unscrew each plastic locking ring and separate each rod, leaving the plastic locking rings in place on them and put the o-rings on. Be sure the o-rings fit snuggly but not too tight around each rod as shown below. Then insert the rods back in place and reconnect the threaded locking rings with the o-rings between the two parts. The o-rings will slip between the plastic collets and the ring wall as you screw on the locking ring. When the locking ring gets hand-tight, the o-rings will provide more locking force between the rod sections so they can’t spin as easily.
  15. Hot weather kept me in most the summer so I got bored. Wasn't happy with the frankenshaft I had put together for my Cibola so I snagged the all carbon S-Shaft from Steve G. Carbon shaft alone is only 8.6oz!! You can see the taper on it that I needed to make an adapter plate; Plate I may redo and refine it later and make it bit lighter as I over built it as usual. Next I made the cuff: Finally because I ordered the shaft with the back too long I had to trim a couple inches off. Final pics of complete machine: Total weight including the 10.5 oz Shrew is 2.1lbs. If I remake the adapter I can get it to the 2lb mark. The adapter plate and cuff use pocketed screws and bolts and internally there is a recess for industrial adhesive tape. I did not want to glue or put screws through the carbon in case I needed to remove a part so nothing is permenant.
  16. Got my very durable beach rod set for the Deus 2. This has great features. *Antenna run through the center of the shaft [Steves yoke mount has a hole in the center] . *Original coil bolts are used with washers on both sides. *Hand grip with stress washer on top. *The pod can be turned slightly from left to right depending on which hand you want to use. Added Anderson arm cuff. *Cam locking clamp. *Also, no holes in the shafts except for where the antenna comes out. I will be using the Gig's modification for attaching the antenna to the coil with adhesive and keeping water out of the antenna wire. This has already been tested by me. Both on land with and without antenna connection and in the water without any performance loss. I would like to thank Steve from Steve's rods for helping me make a great strong Deus 2 beach set-up.
  17. Hi all, (I apologize in advance if there is already post(s) re this. I haven't been able to find one.) I live on a rocky island in New England (the shale at its end has been traced to west Africa). As such, damage to equipment is expected. That being said, I'm hoping to find a shaft for my Nox 800 that routes cables from the coil internally. Obviously, if there are multiple options, the lighter the better so long as the shaft is durable. I could have sworn that I had come across at least one carbon fiber shaft that fir the bill when I first bought my Equinox ~1½ years back, but can't find them. Any help and guidance towards shaft(s) that fit the durable witj internally routed cable will be extremely appreciated. Thanks in advance for taking the time to read this post and advise me, Kurt
  18. This is not an upgrade situation for present owners , only a request on behalf of future purchasers .I find that the “dog ears “stand does not do the job .The machine almost always falls over ,normally towards me .I like my machine to sit upright when I place it down on the ground .To my mind the dog ears need to be wider apart to prevent this from happening .
  19. I do not care for the Velcro style coil cable straps that every manufacturer gives you to secure you coil cable so I did a search and found something different to secure my coil cable to the detector shaft and they work great https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B09SZ4L4LR/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1
  20. I know this topic has come up here a few times and there are some of us out there who prefer an S shaft. We have debated the benefits of the straight vs S shaft, counter balancing, offered Frankenstein solutions, discussed the limited available options. When Steve announced he was working on an S shaft option for Equinox, and mentioned he was looking for testers, I jumped at the chance to try this out. I provided Steve my thoughts on the prototype I received from another tester in Florida, exchanged a few messages. Great guy to work with. I believe the prototype shaft was only getting one small tweak so I immediately placed my order. Couldn’t wait to get my production version! A few days later, Steve had my S shaft built and in the mail. Behold the Equinox S shaft from Steve’s Detector Rods! I opted for black red color and no counterweight but I believe he is offering that option on this shaft same as on the straight shafts. I’d also like to thank Steve for listening to us and now offering this beautifully executed solution! Some pictures for your enjoyment below.
  21. to market a nox kit with the control box and a small coil that fits the dues stem as d2 s will be unavalble for some time ,will they go for it ?
  22. Every detector I buy the first thing I do is make a stand for it. I just don’t like a detector falling over every time I sit it down. I make all my stand’s out of hot water PVC .
  23. Sometime last fall, I was reading an interesting ongoing debate about S-Shafts vs Straight Shafts. My older detectors both have S-shafts and my Equinox has a straight. Since I have used my Nox way more than the other two detectors, I really didn't have any frame of reference to get into that debate. I did notice that the stock shaft of the Nox did feel nose heavy with the 11 inch coil and more so with the 12x15 inch coil. I swung the 11" most of the time and after the first year it was beginning to cause arm and shoulder pain when using more than a few hours. I'm sure that has as much to do with my aging 67 year old arms as it does with the shaft, but I was not about to give up detecting over a little arm pain. So I began searching for alternatives to help keep me going. I looked at and tried a couple of harness and bungie type devices, and while they do help, I didn't like to being spider-webbed to my detector and having to fiddle with disconnecting everytime I wanted to lay it down. Enter the Carbon Fiber Shaft. I started looking at carbon fiber shafts because they were lighter than the stock ML shaft, so I thought, "lighter is better, right?". I waded through many brands that were offered through various online venues and settled on one I found that looked good. To be fair, it was a nicely made shaft and lighter than the stock shaft, but it did nothing to relieve the nose heaviness or the arm pain. So the search continued. After joining the DetectorProspector forum, I came across a thread about counter balances for the Nox shaft and Steve's Detector Rods. While adding weight to the shaft seemed a little counter intuitive to me, I contacted SteveG and he explained in great detail the science of balance, fulcrums, and weight distibution as it applies to metal detecting. Not only was he very knowlegable, he listen to my ideas and concerns as well and worked to reach a good solution taylored to my size, arm length, and swing style and he even made it in a 3-piece travel shaft so I could pack it in my suitcase. Needless to say the counter balance worked perfectly, no more pain with the large coils. As my arms seemed to have strengthened a bit since I can detect more with no pain, I only use the counter weight with the 12x15 inch coil now. Enter the Carbon Fiber S-Shaft. When SteveG announced he was looking for beta-testers for his new S-Shaft design, I threw my hat in the ring out of curiosity more than anything. I am perfectly happy with the travel shaft he made for me and am using it as my main shaft, but I wanted to compare a straight and S-shaft directly to see what the differences were for myself. I figured I had no chance of getting one to test but I was pleasantly surprised when a brand new beta shaft showed up at my door at the end of December. I had to wait a week for the snow to clear a bit to begin my week of testing. The first thing I noticed was it was about an ounce and a half lighter than the stock shaft and my travel shaft. The prototype S-Shaft weighed 8.5 ounces (240g) without control pod, cuff, and coil, and with the pod, cuff, and 11 inch coil mounted weighs 2.8 pounds (1277g) total. The ML shaft weighs 10 ounces (283.5g) without accessories, and with pod, cuff, and 11 inch coil mounted weighs 2.9 pounds (1320g). So the S-Shaft saves about 1.5 ounces (42.5g) in weight. The first coil I tried on the S-shaft was the 6 inch coil and it was ridiculously light. It was like swing a pencil on the end of the shaft with so much control I could have written my name in the sand with it, except I was on grass. I then moved to the 10x5 inch coil and while I've been using the 10x5 for a year on my straight shaft and love it, I noticed more precise control with the S-shaft. Is it game changing control with the S-Shaft? I think that is in the arm of the beholder, but for me it was noticible enough to warrant ordering one for myself. The real surprise for me was when I mounted the 11 inch coil. I didn't expect it to do any better than the straight shaft, but again, the S-shaft seemed to be more responsive to my arm movements with the 11" and I worked with it for 5 hours continously with no arm fatigue, again adding to my decision to order one. The 12x15 inch coil was responsive as well, but after a few hours, I was missing that counter weight as my arm began to ache a bit, so I like the big coil on my straight shaft with the counter weight. SteveH described the differences between straight and s-shafts in more detail which reflects what I found in my tests. SteveG works tirelessly to make sure his customers get what they need and want. I can't recommend him and his shafts enough. Are they the ultimate shaft? That's for you to decide, but for me they are. 😎
  24. I like the idea and 3d printed implementation. Would like to see a profile for the XP shaft.
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