Badger-NH

I use 5 tones most of the time and occasionally 2. It's just a personal choice and doesn't affect performance. I only use 50 tones on land in high iron trash situations and occasionally single tone with horseshoe on but most of the time I'm in 5 for relic hunting.

I've seen fine gold chains that ID between 1 and 3. Generally, gold in the single numbers will be very small to micro in size and will usually be a lot less common than the heavier gold targets that ID in the teens. You should be using Beach 1. Sensitivity as high as possible as long as it remains quiet. There's no substitute for experience. We all learned by digging.

No, I would not buy one. I was on the original list to get one and dropped out as I started hearing about all the problems and that the ability of being able to identify iron was exaggerated and had no practical use. Long before the limited came out I was suggesting a non-waterproof model to keep the price down. I think they would have sold a lot more machines that way and avoided the leaking/corrosion problems. I think they need to go back to the drawing board and start over with a more streamlined model. Lower the price and just make it the high performance PI detector that it really is. Call it the AQ Beach for wet sand and water up to knee deep. No speaker, no headphones, under $1000. If that shows promise, then go ahead and design a submersible version.

At the beach I generally dig everything 13 and up regardless of how it sounds and only ignore 12 and below when I get tired of digging non-ferrous trash. Steel Lobster trap pieces will often ID as non-ferrous but can usually be identified by mixed low/high signals although some do sneak through and I have to dig them. Deep gold that is right on the edge of detection can also have occasional low tones but will still have that nice gold sound. Any time you pass up a small target with non-ferrous VDI, you take the risk of missing the precious metal.

What numbers would you not dig based on VDI?

If another company were to take over the AQ design, I think Nokta would be my choice.

If Alexandre is released from the contract, he should first take his design to the other companies and see if they are interested.

That's kind of what was saying since the beginning, but it didn't need to be a gold detector. A simple non-waterproof beach machine would have lowered the cost dramatically, avoiding a lot of problems while selling more units. Aiming the first prototype at water hunters was a mistake.

Saying you are able to tell the difference between gold and aluminum by ear is a little like believing you are psychic. The ability can easily be proved or disproved using tests similar to the tests used for testing psychic ability.

I can tell the difference between a gold ring and a pull tab just by looking at them.

Great find. Somewhat rare but not unheard of. Many have been found in NH and all over the US. I don't don't recall ever finding one myself but I know people who have.

Google Satellite is super useful for finding places to detect. It allows you to see a lot more than you would driving around. It's my number one research tool. It also helps you find access points and where to park. Online tax maps will often show who the land belongs to. You may be surprised how much land is public.

I've always had a stigma about Bounty Hunters. Back when I started detecting they were considered toys and were only sold in hobby shops and department stores. That was before BH was bought out by FT who apparently tried to make BH a more legitimate brand but at the same time lowered the quality of the Fisher line up by making the Fishers nearly identical to Bounty Hunters. I still cannot fathom why FT decided to not produce a line of CZ models.

A lot depends on where you live. Start by studying the history of your area. Google "History of your town". Old farm fields are the best. Just stop and ask permission. Where I am in NH, many places of high human activity have returned to woods. A good place to start might be in the vicinity of RR tracks. Most were built in the 1800s. It took a lot of man hours to build them. Look for places where the workers may have had lunch. Some bridges took weeks or months to build where the workers would be for a long time. Vagrants often lived near RR tracks, sometimes in large camps for safety. They all carried coins. River banks often had a lot of activity. Look for where people might have fished, gone swimming, or camped. It may have looked completely different 100 years ago. Think positive. Imagine all the ways people can lose coins. At night in the dark, in deep grass or snow, falling down, fighting, taking alcohol, cutting trees, riding horses, fixing wagons. The possibilities are endless.

FT doesn't sell anything that I would want. The whole multi brand thing is a scam. It has been from the start. If Fisher had stayed in business, we might have seen some innovative detectors from them, like the modernized CZ beach machine I always wanted.

That's one of the holy grail finds of a lifetime. I've been detecting for 26 years and the silver Dollar and gold coin are still on my list.

Seems to me, an easy, lightweight, and inexpensive solution would be to put a piece of pipe insulation over the shaft. I would be more worried about damaging the coil than the cable. I can't imagine a situation where the cable might get damaged unless you are swinging the shaft into the rocks.

Park mode is for sites with a lot of non-ferrous trash. Field mode is for sites with moderate to high levels of ferrous trash. Park 1 and Field 1 are for general hunting and focus more in the silver range (VDI 19 and up). Park 2 and Field 2 focus more towards targets in the gold range. Nickels, gold, tiny silver coins, tiny silver jewelry (VDI 19 and down). Whether you are hunting at a park, field, cellar hole or woods doesn't matter. Choose the mode depending on trash levels. My sites have moderate to high ferrous trash levels. I typically hunt in Field 1 and only use Field 2 after a site has been hunted out in Field 1. Field mode is a little deeper than Park mode. I rarely if ever use Park mode. If you find Multi to be a bit noisy at high Sensitivity, switch to 15kHz and it should quiet down. Sensitivity has a huge affect on depth. The manual explains it pretty well.

The 15" x 12" Butterfly was awesome on my T2 when I had it.

I vaguely remember Fisher stereo systems. They were big in the 1970s. Not the same Fisher as the detector company apparently. I'm enjoying the mystery of all this.

Ha, I just realized/remembered that you joined the NH detecting forum a few months back and that you recently got the Legend. The name Dirtshark didn't click until I saw here that you're in NH. You should be posting your stuff on the NH forum as well as here. There have been some good finds being made lately and everyone would like to see how you're progressing. 👍

Not all low tones are necessarily iron. There could also be mineralization or mineralized rocks in the ground. If the low tones don't have a clear signal in pinpoint it's probably minerals. There are lots of mineralized rocks at my NH sites. In general though, houses always do have a lot of iron within 20 or 30 feet of the foundation which usually diminishes as you get away from the house. The shoe buckle part is definitely a good sign. That would get my motivation going. The key to finding stuff is knowing and believing it's there. Don't let negative thoughts enter your mind. Be present and stay focused.

If there are very few old non-ferrous targets, it was likely detected before. A virgin home site or farm would have loads non-ferrous to dig. Most of it scrap metal trash but also interesting things like buttons, buckles, and coins. If you are digging old non-ferrous trash, it's a good sign there are good targets mixed in. It may have been cherry picked, taking only the higher coin signals but that still leaves lots of stuff to dig. You should be digging everything above foil or avoid digging anything below nickel. Also remember that everything you dig could be masking something better below it.

Are you sure the bottles were prohibition era? Some of those can be worth a lot of money. Hard to believe prohibition ended nearly a century ago. Incredible how time sneaks by. If the bottle says "Federal Law Forbids Sale Or Reuse of This Bottle", it was made after prohibition.

The Amazon page says "FINDS MORE TREASURE: Reaches deep targets at never-before-seen depths. The 12COILDD can detect coin-sized targets up to 14 inches deep." I guess it could mean never before seen depths in a Fisher Coil and "coin sized targets" could mean silver dollars. Interesting, when you click "Visit the Fisher store", it only shows speaker systems and nothing detecting related. https://www.amazon.com/Fisher-inch-Coil-Triangulated-Bi-Axial/dp/B09SNVRXHC