Badger-NH

I would keep hitting that beach. 👍

The CZ20/21 was designed for diving. Awesome performance in salty wet sand but heavy and awkward for beach hunting. I don't understand why they never made a lightweight beach version. That's where the money is.

The coin looks authentic to me. Replications are supposed to be marked "copy".

Insect Shield - https://www.insectshield.com/

Tarsacci went the way of the Blisstool. It showed promise but had no practical use.

The YaYa Tick Ban sounds interesting. If anything, it's a good backup for other products and I like that it's safe but I wouldn't depend on it by itself. I don't care for Permethrin. I've tested it and it only lasts a week at best. The label may say it will survive a wash but it doesn't. You have to re-spray your clothes at least once a week or before each hunt. It's very easy to test the effectiveness of the Permethrin spay. When you find a tick, put it on your clothes and see how long it takes to die. As the toxicity starts to fade, the ticks will be able to crawl around until they find a safe place on your body to bite. That's when you know it's time to re-spray your clothes. I also don't like Permethrin because it can cause neurological damage in cats and probably other animals. Many people are not intelligent enough to use it responsibly. You are better off just buying the Insect Shield clothing. The infusion process they use is much more permanent. My Insect Shield shirts typically last a year or more. They last longer if you avoid washing them.

I've had Lyme Disease three times over the last 20 years. Pretty sure I beat it each time with antibiotics. The best protection I have found is Insect Shield shirts or similar brand products. I wear high boots over my pant legs to keep them from crawling up my ankles. That combined with the shirts provides 100% protection. I shower and change clothes when I get home. I started wearing Insect Shield eight or so years ago and have not had a tick bite since.

I'm inclined to agree. The crematoriums probably tell their clients that gold is unrecoverable just to make their job easier.

I found a piece of melted gold at the beach about the size of a filling. I took it to a gold and jewelry dealer and he said it was 14k. I thought maybe it was a small gold ring that had fallen into a campfire but now dental gold seems possible. Gold is gold to me. I don't care where it comes from. I have four gold crowns in my teeth. If they ever scatter my ashes at the beach, I hope someone finds them. 🙂

Any gold in a person's body would melt during cremation and would not appear in someone's ashes. The fillings your husband found were probably lost by someone swimming or playing at the beach. https://www.elementalnw.com/ufaqs/can-i-get-the-gold-fillings-medical-implants-bones-etc-back/#:~:text=While the crown may look,the process and is unrecoverable. https://fcaaz.org/1761-2/#:~:text=At cremation temperatures%2C any gold,in with the bone fragments.

If you are handy, a piece of surgical tubing from Home Depot works just as well if not better. I used one on my Minelab Explorer for years. It makes the detector almost weightless and relieves your grip on the handle. Take three or four feet of rope or nylon webbing. Make a large loop at one end. Put your arm through the loop and have it go behind your neck and over your other shoulder. Then run the tubing from the rope to the lower part of the rod. There are various ways to make it adjustable but once you have the length set to your height, it never needs adjustment. This is me using it at Salisbury Beach in 2013.

If the Gold is as good on the beach as the AQ but with a much lower price, I might consider one. I don't need it to be waterproof. Also don't want headphones or a neutral buoyancy coil. No speaker please.

I had the same complaint with the CZ20. It was useless around most iron, on land and at the beach. Away from iron, it was great.

Keep detecting. When you find a silver one, compare it to the clad coins you've found so far.

Wheaties don't always indicate potential silver. While silver coins were plucked from circulation in the 70s and 80s, wheaties were ignored for the most part. It was not unusual to see a wheatie or two in pocket change 20 years ago.

I don't watch many detecting videos but I would like to see an example of what you are saying. That kind of thing would bother me too. When people see the number of views that channels like Aquachigger receive, the potential to make a lot of money becomes a major motivator but more often than not, the type of person who would fake a find is not very intelligent.

Thanks for the photos Simon. New Zealand is awesome. If I had a choice, that's where I would want to live.

The 8 Reales is still on my list as well. Awesome find! Were you invited back for another hunt?

Aluminum would be very light. The ice cube test results sound promising. Next, you could try bleach or the acid test. You could also look for an appraiser or pawn shop that might have an electronic tester. https://bullionexchanges.com/learn/how-do-you-know-if-your-silver-is-real

Same with my F75. I saw very little difference between DST on and DST off. I don't know why they even bothered adding an off option. DST solved the EMI problem but the loss of performance compared to my T2 SE which had no DST was disappointing.

Have you compared multi-frequency with single-frequency when dealing with EMI? I have sites near powerlines where I can't run Multi without lowering the Sensitivity way down but 15 kHz is unaffected. I generally run single frequency most of the time anyway since my ground is very mild. I only use multi in mineralized ground or around iron.

Often the soft copper oxidation will hold the detail while the metal below it has been destroyed. It might be worth it to not clean the coin to save the detail but this can be messy when you have a lot of coppers. I clean all my coppers. I think they look better cleaned and my hands don't get dirty when handling them.

I wash off the dirt but leave them white if possible.

There is a big difference between air testing and ground testing. Try burying some targets at precise depths and see how it does. Make sure the ground is free of metal and hot rocks. My non-DST T2 SE easily went an inch deeper on a silver dime and two inches deeper on a silver quarter than my F75 DST in mild soil. Both using the 15" x 10" SEF coil.