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  1. With all of the new machines out or coming out, I was just wondering how many of us Tesoro fans still use them on a regular basis? Also if all these new machines are so much better, Why so few Tesoro's for sale? I own a NOX 800 and NM multi kruzer and like them both, But seem to find myself drifting back to the low Khz Tesoro's. I'm a coin guy and love silver and copper coins. Gold to me is a welcome surprise but it's not what makes me smile. Running my Umax over the 800 as of lately really seems magical. I feel like I'm much more in tune with the tones vs blended audio of the 800. I'm also a big fan of concentric coils, they just perform so much better in dense trash. I know everyone chases depth, but I do not. Most of my coins rarely go beyond 7'' with the exception of big silver (oddly) Ha Ha. Beginner detectorist's IMHO rely to much on their screens and discard the fundamentals of detecting for a machine that they trust without knowing what that means. Something awesome about a 1 tone machine with a hundred nuances.
  2. My last coin and silver of 2021 was a barber half. Since that day I have not been out, Here in PA we had some really cold days and some snow. I thought my next hunt would be in April. Well today we had a high of 47 and the ground crust thawed enough to try a hunt. I kept having the feeling that I left something behind last time out, So back to the park I went were the barber came from. The first coin out of the ground was a clad dime followed by 2 quarters. My next great tone was by an OLD oak tree a mere 10 feet from where the barber was found. Roots galore but still no coin at 7 inches, having a feeling it was something good I slowly excavated another 2 and out jumped another 1/2, This time a really nice 1945 Walker. I ended 2021 with a total of 47 silver coins 5 of which were 1/2's, So starting out 2022 with a 1/2 might/ (hope) be a good omen.
  3. Christmas day I was climbing the walls to do a little detecting, so with little time to hunt before dinner I decided to hit my neighbors 18th century house. After two wheaties and some modern clad I got my first good target. It was an odd piece of copper/bronze doo dad. Looks familiar but I just can't put my finger on it. My last good Target was what I thought to be a key of some sort, Well not so much. After I got home I cleaned the (key) off and found it to be an odd medallion. A date of 1876 and a liberty bell and some people shaking hands emerged. After a little Google research I found it to be a 1876 Philadelphia Exposition medallion. It was the first worlds fair. It was called the International Exhibition of Arts, Manufactures and products of the soil and mines. Kinda cool since I found it in the soil Ha Ha. 10 million people attended from 37 countries and was held in Fairmount Park. I believe only 2 buildings that were constructed are still standing today. It's a nice find for me, but I sure wish it had the rest of the pieces. It's funny how the detecting gods throw a little important history at you from time to time.
  4. I've been playing catch up with detecting ever since the rotten lyme got me. So I've been running hard and hitting some new spots and a fair amount of my old ones. The weather a day before new years decided to rain like cats and dogs. I was feeling like I was going to miss out on some silver if I didn't get out soon. ( I always feel like some of my good spots are going to turn into a housing development or soccer field). I guess my wife could feel my anxiety and said why don't you go out for a little bit. She said go enjoy your time off and gave me a smooch and wished me good luck. Well I headed out to the Park of plenty with an hour to play with, and a plan to focus on a small spot that has produced coins from the 40's/50's and some from the early 1900's. Tesoro silver U-max in hand with the new 10x12 concentric, I raced to the park. I started finding some wheaties right off the bat, mostly from the 40's. Time was closing in and I decided to hunt a break area where I have found some older silvers. I ran my disc 1/2 way between zinc and max to try and punch out some of the coppers. Nothing good was showing up and I only had a few short minutes before I had to go home. Walking back to the truck I saw piece of asphalt in the ground and gave a swing by it, Boom I got a loud signal and thought at first it was a smooshed can. I then realized my switch was on all metal (oops) back to disc. I still got a big sound and started to dig. At 9'' I was doubting anything good but being my last target to dig for the day I said lets see what it is. I gave a good push on (kac's) digger and pushed hard and out popped what I thought was an aluminum token until I saw the stars. At 11'' the 1902 Barber 1/2 dollar showed it's wonderful design. This is the second of 2021 and a perfect ending to a crazy year. This is the best 49 minute hunt I ever had.
  5. I have a modified Monte's Nail Board that I used recently to compare the Equinox 600 to the Fisher F2, Garrett AT Max and Vanquish 340. You can see my post discussing my results here. I recently acquired a Tesoro Cibola and Tesoro Vaquero. Both are in great shape and both have the stock 8x9 "monolithic" coils (are these concentric?). I tested both on the same Modified Monte's Nail Board using the same parameters as my previous test. Just as a refresher: Coin Position 1 (Up) = the dime is in the middle coin position, but the dime is on the same plane as the nails. Coin Position 1 (Down) = the dime is in the middle coin position, but the dime is below the plane (about 2.5 inches) the nails are on. Coin Position 2 (Up) = the dime is in the side coin position, but the dime is on the same the plane nails are on. Coin Position 2 (Down) = the dime is in the side coin position, but the dime is below the plane (about 2.5 inches) the nails are on. 4 = The metal detector gave a tone and/or VDI response that would definitely result in me digging the target. 3 = The metal detector gave a tone and/or VDI response that would likely result in me digging the target. 2 = The metal detector gave a tone and/or VDI response that would likely result in me NOT digging the target. 1 = The metal detector gave a tone and/or VDI response that would definitely result in me NOT digging the target. Here are the Equinox 600's results and settings: The Equinox 600 was set up in Park 1 where everything was stock, except I adjusted F2 = 0. Sensitivity was at 10 (out of 25). The Equinox 600 was using the stock (11") coil. Coin Position 1 (Up): Sweep 1: 4 Sweep 2: 1 Sweep 3: 3 Sweep 4: 4 Coin Position 1 (Down): Sweep 1: 4 Sweep 2: 1 Sweep 3: 1 Sweep 4: 1 Coin Position 2 (Up): Sweep 1: 4 Sweep 2: 2 Sweep 3: 2 Sweep 4: 2 Coin Position 2 (Down): Sweep 1: 4 Sweep 2: 1 Sweep 3: 1 Sweep 4: 1 Here are the Vaquero's results and settings: Discrimination nob was set to Iron, sensitivity was set to 4 and I was using the stock 8x9 coil. Coin Position 1 (Up): Sweep 1: 4 Sweep 2: 4 Sweep 3: 4 Sweep 4: 4 Coin Position 1 (Down): Sweep 1: 4 Sweep 2: 3 Sweep 3: 4 Sweep 4: 3 Coin Position 2 (Up): Sweep 1: 4 Sweep 2: 2 Sweep 3: 4 Sweep 4: 4 Coin Position 2 (Down): Sweep 1: 2 Sweep 2: 3 Sweep 3: 4 Sweep 4: 3 Here are the Cibola's results and settings: Discrimination nob was set to Iron, sensitivity was set to 4 and I was using the stock 8x9 coil. Coin Position 1 (Up): Sweep 1: 4 Sweep 2: 4 Sweep 3: 4 Sweep 4: 4 Coin Position 1 (Down): Sweep 1: 1 Sweep 2: 1 Sweep 3: 1 Sweep 4: 2 Coin Position 2 (Up): Sweep 1: 3 Sweep 2: 1 Sweep 3: 1 Sweep 4: 3 Coin Position 2 (Down): Sweep 1: 1 Sweep 2: 1 Sweep 3: 1 Sweep 4: 2 Pretty impressive, eh? Yet the Equinox 600 had clearly superior recovery speed. But what I found interesting was that when I compared the Equinox 600 and Cibola, they were similar in regards to target masking. Here's my rough test: The Equinox 600 was set up in Park 2, F2=0, sensitivty was 10 and I notched out everything below 17 (everything else was stock). I placed a Zincoln between two modern aluminum can pulltabs. I placed the Zincoln between the 2 pulltabs in a straight line with equal distance b/w the pulltabs and coin. I then swung my Equinox coil over the line and saw if it detected the coin and discriminated out the pulltabs. I then moved both pulltabs in closer to the Zincoln while keeping all 3 pieces of metal in a straight line. There was a point where, during the swing, the Equinox failed to beep on the coin. I'd estimate this was when the pulltabs were about 5 inches (maybe?) on each side of the coin. However. if I honed in the on coin and did those mini "wiggle" swings, the coil could detect the coin (so the separation was there with the coil, but the recovery speed wasn't, apparently). Anyways, I did the same test with the Cibola and sets the discrimination so that the coin could be clearly detected and the pulltabs not detected (discriminated out). When I did the same above test with the Cibola, it performed virtually the same as the Equinox 600, ie the pulltabs masked out the coin at almost the exact same point and the coil could still be "wiggled" over the coin only and still detect it, but not during a "full" swing. I still need to test the Tesoros more, and I'll be selling at least one of them (if not both). But I wanted to hear your thoughts as to what I could do differently to get better results with either the Vaquero, Cibola or Equinox 600. Don't my results with Monte's Modified Nail Board seem a little...too good to be true for the Tesoros? What am I missing? Is it b/c I'm using a "monolithic" stock coil (is this a concentric coil?) and the coil is averaging the nail and coin values, which still come up above iron? I think I answered this question; see below/updated post. And same for the target masking when comparing the Cibola to the Equinox 600 using the Zincoln and pulltabs. I'm not surprised by the Cibola's results, but the Equinox 600? What could I adjust on the Equinox 600 to reduce this target masking (besides getting a smaller coil)?
  6. Not mine. I doubt if the seller will get that, but I thought it was a crazy high price. Seller also states that there were rumors that there were only 150 mojaves made.
  7. Through most of 2020 I detected a large park which had been previously detected but still produced decent old coins for me. In one post I told of a well used path to a small waterfall which confused and frustrated me. The path (approx 150-200 m long) is right next to a creek ('stream' for you New Englanders 😉) and it was likely used for watering cattle in the late 19th and early 20th Century. The path was hard packed gravel and crushed stone, occasionl larger pieces of limestone, with soil filled in between all that aggregate. This path gave thick iron response to the Minelab Equinox and produced almost no coins. (I do remember one Zincoln -- I would.) Back then I tried both the 11" stock DD coil and the 6" DD with similar results. With both coils I recovered shallow (meaning mostly within the first 1" depth) lead bullets as well as brass casings. Most were 22 cal. but a few were larger and those in particular I was able to date at over 100 years old. My conclusion is that this path was used by hunters prior to it becoming part of the park. So in summary, lots of small iron (nails and wire), as many bullets and casings as I cared to recover, but no coins. And the recovered targets were mostly located in the top 1 inch. Some time after my report, kac suggested returning with the Tesoro Vaquero and 8"x9" stock concentric (the only concentric I have for it presently). He and dogodog recommended setting the threshold to where Zincolns just break up. I found out from the park caretaker that the path is scheduled to be covered over completely with a boardwalk so if I was ever going to return, I better make it quick. A week ago I took his advice as well as kac's and doggo's. But in two hours of hunting with the Vaquero I recovered almost nothing. One lead bullet somehow snuck past the threshold and I think I got an aluminum can base, but specifically no coins and practically no trash either. I had been committed to using concentric coils only and took my Fisher F75 with its tiny 3"x6" concentric as a backup. Returning the the vehicle I swapped out the detectors and returned for 2 more hours. I only use silencing discrimination (and silencing masking) when I have no choice so I set the F75 up in Default process, 4H (4 tones with nickel zone joining the high conductor coins in the highest tone). Low tone is 0-15 which is nominally the entire iron range. With this detector I decided to dig anything 'interesting', at least at the start. As was the case in 2020 I immeditately started recovering lead bullets and brass casings, all very shallow as before. Two more hours and still no coins. I gave up. At the far end of this wooded path there is construction of a new paved path in the open area of the park. (I've bitched many times before that I hate these backfilling-party upgrades!) For the last hour of this session I decided to search near that path, also at or close to where I had hunted previously. All the coins found that day (just two clad dimes and two copper Memorials) were found in that last hour with the F75 and its tiny coil. Here are the coins I found that day and the next day (described below): The next morning I returned to search several dirt piles -- the dirt having been removed ("scraped off") so they could backfill the walkway with crushed stone before paving with asphalt. That 2.5 hour hunt was exclusively with the ML Equinox 800 and 11" coil with my standard park/school coin hunting settings. The dirt piles produced only a clad dime -- what a disappointment. For the last hour I just searched part of the park I had hunted previously. One wheat penny was in the ground up trunk of a recently cut down tree (not surprisingly with damage from the blades of that tool). The other Wheatie was in along a path I'm pretty sure I had detected previously, but was less than 2" deep and thus sounded like a shallow Zincoln. (Lesson to self: Be careful what you mentally reject digging....) Oh, what's that other thing? Near the end of the first day in a dirt pile I got a signal in the nickel zone of the F75 (25-35 on the 0-99 scale) and thought maybe it was in fact a nickel. Imagine my disappointment when it turned out to be a 10kt gold child's ring weighing 0.43 g. (still about $10 in gold content at today's price). That's my first gold jewelry find since December of 2018. Ignoring the foil and pulltab ranges has its advantages... and its downsides. Finally, the non-valuable non-ferrous finds over these two days. The finds along the 'noisy' path to the waterfall (4 hours of the 7.5 hour total) are the lead bullets and brass casings, the aluminum bracket at far upper left corner, the chrome plated strap clamp (off womens clothing?), and the two items right above it -- one a small cap (but not bottle cap) and the other a small gear, possibly from a clock. To the right of those, also found along the wooded path, is heavy gauge copper wire wrapped around a fine gauge copper wire -- something electrical I guess. Everything else was from the rest of the (open) area I hunted over those two days. The tag with printing is religious and not old. Note the interesting toy cannon from a WWI(?) playset. I have no idea what those two embossed mating pieces (pot metal?) to the right of the toy gun are. That rectangle at the lower left is some kind of nametag, etc., not a buckle. Lower far right is a thick amber glass jar piece, probably part of a canning jar. Crown cap is pre-plastic liner era (I seldom find those as they rust away over 50+ years). Upper left is a decorative knob off of a piece of furniture. Finally the upper right -- what this was doing in a pile of scrape-off dirt at a park I have no idea. Here's a picture of a nearly identical piece I found googling: And some info on the company that made it: I'd much rather be showing you pictures of early coins, especially silver, and I'm sure you would, too, but the earlybird detectorists got those worms, leaving the decaying insects for me.
  8. Pots worn out on my Tejon and I have the info for the ground balance pot but not on the others. Threshold and I believe 2nd disc are the same Sensitivity, primary disc and VCO/Tone might be the same I can't get a good reading on them as they are worn out and still soldered in so any info would be a huge help. Thanks
  9. I started a new thread on a subject that we were discussing in this thread. In a post there, @kac said: ...When you get into can slaw and pull tabs you can easily just skip all that by cranking up the disc to the pull ring mark where class rings sit and most aluminum has dropped off and make an easy and quiet hunt for coppers and silvers. This looks like what @dogodogwas saying he likes do when cherry-picking high conductor coins. Sounds like you stil accept Zincolns. Is that right? Do you set the disc so that ringtabs are truly silent or on the hairy edge (giving ratty response)? (kac continues:) Hunting in the aluminum range the Tejon has the advantage of dual disc so you can work a tighter range but that can be just as tedious as hunting with a VDI machine and constantly checking numbers with the exception that as I mentioned before there is a pop to most aluminum. Is the 'pop' dependent upon where you set the threshold? I recall you (and maybe others as well) mentioning this previously. Is this one feature that makes an analog detector superior to a digital (for that particular 'discrimination' technique -- I don't mean superior across the board)? Is this something that you need to train your ear to pick up? I think cut square tabs and nickels for me are too difficult to hear the difference and oddly their numbers are nearly identical on just about all my machines that have VDI screen. I don't know what you mean by 'cut square tabs'. Do you just mean modern racetrack shaped pulltabs broken off from the can? So listenting for the 'pop' doesn't distinguish those from nickels? If I'm expert at anything in metal detecting, it's aluminum drink can pulltabs. I really like nickels and as you note, their dTID's (on detectors with digital Target ID readout) are in the same general range as pulltabs, sometimes with overlap. Most of my experience is with the Minelab Equinox (to be specific I'm talking Park 1 or Field 1, 5 tones, Recovery Speed = 4) and here is a breakout of the types of targets by dTID: Nickels: (start with the 'wheat' and shift to the 'chaff'): dTID sweetspot in the 12-13. There can be differences depending upon such things as depth and amount of corrosion. Shallow fresh drops are usually 13 while corroded ones tend towards 12. Most of the time I get some 12's and some 13's. Deep nickels (quieter on the volume scale and also more bars on the strength meter) can blip an 11 or 14, but still most of their dTID signals will be in the 12-13 band). The signal strength is the key for me. If I'm getting a rather weak nickel signal I'm not strict with the techniques below. In my area pulltabs don't tend to be as deep as the deeper nickels so most of them give a pretty strong to very strong signal. Rolled over beaver (only): Have quite a bit of 11 along with 12 and a bit of 13. In fact I can (most of the time) distingish these by going to Park 2, 50 tones, recovery speed=6 where they always give lots of 11. Smallest (latest in series, so closer to 1975 vintage, particular the single piece ones as opposed to those with a rivet) ring+beavertail, extended: mostly 12-13. I end up digging all of these as trying to distinguish from nickels is too risky. Modern punchout (near disk-like piece of thin aluminum that's part of the can lid and gets pushed into the can when opened): almost completely in the 12-13. These are pretty much impossible to distinguish from nickels, IMO. Just dig 'em and cuss the idiot who went to all that trouble to remove them. Bent over itself ring-only pull: These are assymetric so probably give a 'tell' when picked up from different directions, but they tend to be strongly in the 12-13 sweetspot. Modern racetrack pulltab: Fortuantely these seem to be one of the easiest to distinguish with the Equinox as they give both 13 and 14 dTID's. The 14 is in the long direction so if perfectly aligned you may get only 13 but you don't have to be much off that alignment to get the 14. 'Early' circular ring only (i.e. beavertail missing): These are easily separated from nickels, somewhere in the 15-17 range but unless bent do not come close to the 12-13 sweetspot. Of course these (and all others) are still a problem for jewelry detectorists and their symmetry (except for the rivet extension) make them sound really sweet, as if a nice fat gold finger ring). Ring and beavertail (attached) but with tail folded over or even wrapped around the ring: These tend to dTID lower than ring only, but still above the nickel sweetspot. 14-15 with maybe some 13 thrown in. Some more unusual varieties (at least in my area) are the early 'squaretab' which rather than racetrack is closer to rectangle, and even kind of butterfly shaped sometime. These dTID higher than nickels, and in fact a bit higher than the modern racetrack 'cousins', especially when not on-axis (meaning you're coil trajectory isn't solely along the narrow part). Another less common are the small ring+beavertail (intact) which contain a rivet. I'm not confident these are easily separted (dTID-wise) from nickels. Finally, there are many varieties of ringtabs associated with other cans such as Pringle potato chip cans and some automotive fluid cans. Those are larger and still further distance from nickels. One last word of caution: a fair amount has been written about Wartime Nickels ("silver nickels" which have no nickel content but rather quite a bit of silver and some manganese). In my experience they signal with the same dTID's as standard nickels but some have reported their TID's going up even into the Zincoln zone. In those cases, discriminating against pulltabs can lead to missing those. I do think they are rare but maybe I've passed over some?? So, kac, after all that, how does your Tejon respond to these various pulltab types, and do you set your threshold so as to be able to ignore all of them?
  10. Today was a day that I've been waiting for for two weeks. A great forum member GB amateur contacted me to see if I would be interested in getting together to hunt on his way back from another trip on the east coast. Without reserve I said yes. With all the details worked out we got together today to hunt an old swim club established in the 20's. It was hot hot and more hot today and I was hoping we would have a good time before we both died of heat stroke. GB was running the 800 and I was too for about 15 minutes, When I decided to change over to the Compadre. I have found a few silvers there and had some problems with iron so what the hell. We both were finding some clad and wheaties. After an hour or so GB raised his hand with the first silver of the day a merc dime. Shortly after I pulled a 62 rosie. More clad and wheaties I decided to move to a spot I hunted a fair amount with the 800, But not with a Tesoro. Within a few minutes I pulled out a 44 merc. Two minutes more and out comes a 9k wedding band. The Compadre never ceases to amaze me. After a little while longer we decided to call it quit's and get some lunch and BS some more. Getting a chance to hunt with GB today was as fun as it gets and to have a good time with someone who you respect makes it all the better.
  11. I just purchased a NIB Silver umax today. I started to use my Compadre about 3 weeks ago to cover some hunted out HaHa ground that I've been pounding with the 800. I've become aware that the 800 has a little problem masking out silver targets in areas with a lot of nails. I know some of you will tell me I'm using the wrong settings ect, ect. But after trying all the so called great settings from other users I still came up short and feeling like I missed some good targets. So for shits and giggles I pulled out the lowly 5 3/4'' Compadre and hit a few spots. Well now I saw a dramatic silver increase in some of my nail infested areas. There's a lot to be said for setting your Disc near max and just hunting the BEEP = Silver. A light bulb went off and I almost forgot how great Tesoro machines were at discrimination. So a few days ago I got the bug to find a Silver umax, for better depth. Lucky for me a member gave me a tip on a new one. As soon as I get it I will give it a good run. I think sometimes old school detectors will give the new ones a run for the money. I hope all tesoro fans take their machines for a walk once in a while, You might just have a good time.
  12. Hello everyone, I have just joined up and this is my very first post. I'm surprised to see fellow detectorists here from New Zealand. I've been here in N.Z. for almost 12 years now and only bumped into one other detectorist just a little while ago, some newbie from Christchurch going back home after his first trip to Kyeburn Diggings up Dansey's Pass. Some older dude with his new Gold Monster 1000, he stopped off at the beach here in Timaru for a snack and his afternoon nap. No luck for him this time and he was complaining about all the metal the old time miners chucked about there. That's along drive to about 2.5 Hrs one way. We were just heading home after hanging out there for the afternoon, when he saw us just after testing out my wife's new BH Commando TK4. So we had a little bit of a tail-gate meeting with him. He wanted to showed us his GM 1000, it was nice to have a look at one up close and I took it for a bit of spin in the dunes. Anyway I'm not here to chat about new acquaintances, got much more important stuff to talk about. I would like to Hyper-Tune or Super-Tune my Lobo ST and need some help with it. I Was thinking about putting on an external ground balance potentiometer to get some more depth, but first I need to know how it all works. Because my wife and I are Newbie's too and I'm trying to teach myself, my beautiful and talented assistant the "wife" all the ropes about MDing. So if anyone can help in anyway it would be very much appreciated. A German guy did that to his Lobo and he seams to be happy with his mod I think his name is mschahl and another guy Keith they both seem to very knowledgeable about the Lobo ST. I would love to here about what is and isn't, the up and down's, the in's and out's and what mod's I could do with these two MD's the Lobo and BH TK4. Also I could get a new PCB for the Lobo and put it in a build box like the one shown or drop it straight into the Lobo but don't know where or who could build it for me. This way I can take out the factory one to keep for a back-up incase anything goes wrong with my build. Thanks' in advance for all your help and it's nice to be here, I don't feel so lost now. Paul.
  13. Anyone have experience with coil options similar to the precision 7” coil that comes standard on the mojave?
  14. Version 2007

    16 downloads

    Tesoro 2007 full color catalog, 2.77 MB pdf file, 12 pages Tesoro Metal Detector Forum Contents: Tejon DeLeon Golden uMax Cortes Vaquero Cibola Tiger Shark Sand Shark Lobo SuperTRAQ Silver uMax Compadre
  15. Does anyone know what the pots and push button on the circuit board of the Tesoro Lobo for?
  16. I have a Tesoro detector but somehow the wires that go from the circuit board to the batteries have came loose. I need to see a diagram on where the wires go please?
  17. Got a used Tesoro LOBO, but with or without coil, it just screams when I turn it on. Adjusting threshold no help. Any ideas, or anyone need it for parts? Thanks, Jeff in AZ
  18. Does anybody know if those Detech or NEL coils made for a Tesoro Lobo ST will actually get better depth than the Tesoro coils before I go and buy one and can't return it? Any recommendations on the best coil of these 2 brands for deep silver hunting? I have all of the Tesoro coils made for my LST, but I could never get more than 8 inches on a silver quarter even after having the detector tuned to the 9 x 8 coil in Disc mode at the factory. My buddys with Minelabs can get several more inches or so they claim. The LST was my fave all time detector and the only one I ever paid for with finds,mostly gold jewelry.Heck,it will 'see ' a mens gold ring at a foot deep air test in All Metal,so I don't understand why I can only get silver coins at 8 inch max in Disc and a touch more in All Metal? Thanks, -Tom
  19. The Tesoro Pantera is a VLF discriminating metal detector that was produced around 1990 by Tesoro Electronics. It had a cult following due to its proficiency in extracting non-ferrous targets from dense ferrous trash. Information on it is rare so I am reproducing the material from the catalog page below. Instruction Manual at tesoro.com GENERAL DESCRIPTION The Pantera is a high performance VLF metal detector which is capable of rejecting ground mineralization and buried metallic trash simultaneously. It includes Notch Discrimination so that most common pull tabs can be rejected without losing nickels and small gold rings, or so that only a particular band of desired targets will be detected. Notch Tone Target ID provides a low tone for targets below the Notch Level setting, and a higher tone for targets above the Notch Level setting. Design emphasis was placed on performance and ease of use, while minimizing or eliminating those troublesome adjustments that could cause a loss of performance if not used properly. The Silent Search Discriminate Mode is based on motion, which means that the search coil must be moving slightly to detect a target. The motion required is so slight that pin-pointing is possible in this mode, however a No Motion pin-point mode is included, which with the 8 inch open center search coil makes pin-pointing a very simple task. A Ten Turn Ground Adjust control is used, which allows the detector to be adjusted to virtually any type soil. This control allows the operator to get the absolute maximum performance from this detector. The unit is furnished with an 8 inch open center concentric search coil. We feel that this coil will provide excellent performance in most situations. The open center greatly simplifies pin-pointing. The detector can be used as a pole mounted arm rest unit, or as a body mount unit. It can be converted easily without tools. SPECIFICATIONS Operating Frequency ......................... 12 kHz Coil Size ............................................. 8" Diameter Coil Type ............................................ Concentric Audio Frequency Hi Tone............. Approx. 800Hz Low Tone......... Approx. 600Hz Audio Output .................................... 1½" speaker and ¼" stereo earphone jack Weight .............................................. Approx. 3½ pounds Battery Requirements ..................... 12 volts DC (8 AA penlight batteries) Battery Life ...................................... 15-30 hours Optimum Temperature Range ........ 30° F to 100° F Optimum Humidity Range ............... 0 to 75% R.H. Operating Modes.............................. All Metal Expanded ED-120 Discriminate Notch Reject Discriminate Notch Accept Discriminate Click on catalog image below for larger view.....
  20. Im looking for a battery cover for my Tesoro Compadre,, Does anyone know who might have bought out all the stock when the factory closed,,Or does anyone have an extra one they would to sell, Thanks
  21. I either need someone to help me find a manual to download for the original bandido (not 2) or I need info on what the little black knob is on the back of the control housing. Maybe how to ground balance it. General information about it.
  22. I found a Tesoro Silver Sabre Umax, the old one with the red pinpoint button. Has a 8" coil and looks to be in good shape 150.00 with a cheesy pinpointer. Any thoughts for making it a backseat toy? Update! I got it for 100 bucks and it's like brand new! My wife grabbed it and now it's hers. I put a fiber lower rod on it with a nylon coil bolt and it works great. She has a treasure pro and this is lighter for her and easier to operate. It's the small box one Steve like the modern silver uMax.But with an all metal pinpoint button and a threshold control. I'm trying to talk my sister out of her unused Compadre but for some reason it likes the closet at her house.
  23. Version 2001

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    Tesoro Lobo SuperTRAQ Instruction Manual, 394 KB pdf file, 22 pages Tesoro Lobo SuperTRAQ Data & Reviews Tesoro Metal Detector Forum
  24. my grandkids broke one of the battery door push pin connectors to my amigo II, does anyone know where I could find a replacement one? It appears to be exactly like the one on my old whites goldmaster II. Any help would be greatly appreciated, thank's to all that reply.
  25. Recently my Tejon seems to be extra sensitive to EMI and I get a waiver or flutter in the threshold. Is there a way to tune or fix that? Not sure if something is failing or if it is just out of tune. Thanks
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