Deus Shafts In Production...

[steveg]

On 12/18/2022 at 5:29 PM, Skate said:

Very nicely done. My lower shaft camlock is starting to loosen up on my D2 so I'm likely going to need a replacement soon. Once the holidays are over I'm going to stress to my wife that without a new set up I will become just average and all her new rings will be junk unless I get this. 

Skate, I never replied directly to this message, but it made me chuckle!  ? Yes, you can tell her that you certainly won't be able to find rings anymore unless you have a new shaft (and the prior ones you've found her will turn into junkers unless you upgrade, LOL!)

Steve

[CarsonChris]

Are these shaft's available now? I don't see them on the website? 

[Carolina]

Coil your cable like the CTX. Also exit by the RC mount so you can collapse the upper shaft to the cuff.

[steveg]

On 1/8/2023 at 4:25 PM, CarsonChris said:

Are these shaft's available now? I don't see them on the website? 

Chris, 

Sorry for the delayed reply; all day detecting trip yesterday, so a bit behind and trying to catch up!

I haven't put them on the "Products" portion of the website yet, as I'm trying to get all of the customers who are on my wait list outfitted, first.  I have so many orders to fill, that I'm trying not to overwhelm myself with ADDITIONAL customers yet, LOL! When they DO go on the website, they will be at a higher price than the special "introductory" price I'm selling them to wait-list customers for.  So, if you think you may want one, I'll add you to the wait list.

As for availability, parts are in production right now, for me to begin building the second batch of shafts, but it appears that there may be a couple weeks' delay for me to receive these parts.  So, it looks like it may be the first week in February before the parts are shipped, and then mid February before I am building/shipping shafts...

Meanwhile, if you are wanting some detailed info on the shaft itself, I DO have a couple of my most recent "blog" posts up on the website; you'll find those posts under the "What's New" tab (www.stevesdetectorrods.com/blog/index.php).

Thanks!

Steve

[steveg]

On 1/8/2023 at 4:38 PM, Carolina said:

Coil your cable like the CTX. Also exit by the RC mount so you can collapse the upper shaft to the cuff.

Carolina, 

1.  How did you coil that cable?  THAT is really what is needed, to do a GOOD "inside the shaft" wire run...

2.  You are right; a hole in the mount is the best option.  HOWEVER, after much work/effort, I could not locate a hole on the RC mount that would allow the wire -- WITH that plastic connector -- to exit through the hole.  The lack of flexibility of the connector, the size of it, etc., simply thwarted any attempt I made to find a place that I could include a hole on the mount (with respect to the way that the mount is designed, internally).  HOWEVER -- it would be EASY to locate a hole on the mount, if all that was needed was to pass the thin wire ITSELF through (i.e. without connector).  SO -- if anyone wishes to modify their antenna wire (remove the plastic connector/clip, at least temporarily), then routing the antenna wire through the mount itself becomes trivial/easy to do.  And YES -- just as you noted, for the reasons you noted (shaft collapsibility), that is absolutely the preferred solution (but which, again, the connector/clip prevented me from achieving).

Steve

[Carolina]

Start by taping the co ax to the end of a 1/4” dowel leaving about 12” of straight co ax. Then wind the co ax tightly around dowel until about 12” from the end and tape in place. The co ax is stiff so it takes a little effort and you need to have the tape already cut and ready to apply. Then carefully heat the cable with a heat gun ( PVC or Wagner paint stripper or hair dryer on hottest setting ). Once good and hot from end to end, place in the fridge for 10 min. Repeat this process 2 more times.

The trick on the mount, is to remove the two screws holding the mount to the shaft and remove mount. Then disassemble the mount face from the body by depressing the tabs on the side. There is just enough space to drill the hole for the grommet and cable. Now you can run the cable out the shaft into the mount and out, make a loop and then you can push the co ax thru the hole in the mount. Next slide the grommet over the co ax and insert in hole. Then holding the grommet in place, pull the loop out of the co ax. Reassemble the mount and install on shaft. Takes some work but make a clean mod.

[Doc Bach]

25 minutes ago, steveg said:

Carolina, 

1.  How did you coil that cable?  THAT is really what is needed, to do a GOOD "inside the shaft" wire run...

2.  You are right; a hole in the mount is the best option.  HOWEVER, after much work/effort, I could not locate a hole on the RC mount that would allow the wire -- WITH that plastic connector -- to exit through the hole.  The lack of flexibility of the connector, the size of it, etc., simply thwarted any attempt I made to find a place that I could include a hole on the mount (with respect to the way that the mount is designed, internally).  HOWEVER -- it would be EASY to locate a hole on the mount, if all that was needed was to pass the thin wire ITSELF through (i.e. without connector).  SO -- if anyone wishes to modify their antenna wire (remove the plastic connector/clip, at least temporarily), then routing the antenna wire through the mount itself becomes trivial/easy to do.  And YES -- just as you noted, for the reasons you noted (shaft collapsibility), that is absolutely the preferred solution (but which, again, the connector/clip prevented me from achieving).

Steve

 

32 minutes ago, steveg said:

Chris, 

Sorry for the delayed reply; all day detecting trip yesterday, so a bit behind and trying to catch up!

I haven't put them on the "Products" portion of the website yet, as I'm trying to get all of the customers who are on my wait list outfitted, first.  I have so many orders to fill, that I'm trying not to overwhelm myself with ADDITIONAL customers yet, LOL! When they DO go on the website, they will be at a higher price than the special "introductory" price I'm selling them to wait-list customers for.  So, if you think you may want one, I'll add you to the wait list.

As for availability, parts are in production right now, for me to begin building the second batch of shafts, but it appears that there may be a couple weeks' delay for me to receive these parts.  So, it looks like it may be the first week in February before the parts are shipped, and then mid February before I am building/shipping shafts...

Meanwhile, if you are wanting some detailed info on the shaft itself, I DO have a couple of my most recent "blog" posts up on the website; you'll find those posts under the "What's New" tab (www.stevesdetectorrods.com/blog/index.php).

Thanks!

Steve

Hello Steve.I may have overlooked it but are there any future plans for a camouflage version becoming available?Thanks in advance.

[Carolina]

I see now you use the locking mechanism which will more than likely prevent part of my mod. It has been my finding, that people’s hand slide up the handle while detecting into the bottom of the RC. This causes the RC to come loose. I wish we could have talked before you started and maybe a new handle could have been formed. I wrapped vet wrap around my handle heavily around the top and then tapered down the handle.  It has worked for me. If you remember we talked about me testing others shafts and I’m the one who talked to Alexandre about your shaft locks. I doubt you will have any trouble selling boat loads of your shafts. Looks like a nice set up.

[steveg]

2 hours ago, Carolina said:

Start by taping the co ax to the end of a 1/4” dowel leaving about 12” of straight co ax. Then wind the co ax tightly around dowel until about 12” from the end and tape in place. The co ax is stiff so it takes a little effort and you need to have the tape already cut and ready to apply. Then carefully heat the cable with a heat gun ( PVC or Wagner paint stripper or hair dryer on hottest setting ). Once good and hot from end to end, place in the fridge for 10 min. Repeat this process 2 more times.

The trick on the mount, is to remove the two screws holding the mount to the shaft and remove mount. Then disassemble the mount face from the body by depressing the tabs on the side. There is just enough space to drill the hole for the grommet and cable. Now you can run the cable out the shaft into the mount and out, make a loop and then you can push the co ax thru the hole in the mount. Next slide the grommet over the co ax and insert in hole. Then holding the grommet in place, pull the loop out of the co ax. Reassemble the mount and install on shaft. Takes some work but make a clean mod.

Carolina,

THANKS for the info on the coiled cable.  VERY good info...interesting.

As for the mount, that's a great tutorial, for the XP stock mount.  Mine is different, injection-molded as one piece, and so taking the mount apart like that is not an option.  That's why the only way to do it, would be if the plastic connector/clip were removed.  Then, the "bare wire" cold easily be routed through a small hole drilled in the mount...

Thanks for the info!

Steve