Pulled The Trigger

[CPT_GhostLight]

14 hours ago, Geologyhound said:

Yeah, I had not thought about a second shaft.  But from what I have heard, I may need a non-XP shaft right off the bat...

I got my D2 last April and have had no problems with it other than learning it and that just takes putting in the hours on it like any other machine. My shaft has been great, with no flex problems like some report. So I'd recommend putting in as much time as you can and learn as much as you can about it. Fortunately it's so light that you can swing it all day and not get tired from it. After you get comfortable with it, and that won't take long, if you feel you need to make changes in shaft there are many after factory solutions, including a whole carbon fiber shaft.

There may be quirks just like there are with all detectors and peripherals, but give it a chance to do it's thing first. The D2 is an amazing machine and it will amaze you too, the more you learn it. The most important thing I've learned about it so far is to learn the sounds and the audio nuances that can tell you so much more about targets than the TID numbers. And if you have questions or need help, there is no shortage of helpful and knowlegeable detectorists here that are always willing to help. 

Most of all just enjoy your new detector, it is a winner! ?

[TJ Jeepguy]

22 hours ago, F350Platinum said:

I do that with the Carrot, but not with the MI-6. The MI-6 in my opinion is far superior to all the pinpointers I've used, and it's a bonus to me to hear it in the headphones. I use pitch audio instead of pulse, and there is no hiss. You only hear it when you turn it on.

It might be a bit flaky, but it hits stuff very deep and I can use it to keep holes at a minimum if I have to. I run it at full sensitivity all the time. ?

I’m a fan of the sensitivity allowance of the MI6 on the D2.  I also run it full and do find that it rings in some of my local soils, but remember that if you turn it on in a clean pile of the same soil it balances itself. 

[Geologyhound]

Tracking says mine is out for delivery and should arrive by 7 PM tonight!  I downloaded a copy of the Excel Deus 2 program log spreadsheet in anticipation (big thank you to Brad Plohman).  I converted that to the current version of Excel and formatted it to print double sided on 11 x 17 paper. Now I have all the factory programs on one side and all the save slots on the back side of the paper. This should make a good field reference to help me figure out how different settings affect target response in the field.

[CPT_GhostLight]

Excellent! Remember, start with stock programs and get familiar with how they act before jumping into custom programs. They really are quite good straight out of the box. Try each one on some known targets to get a feel for how they react in your ground. The more you know about each program and each setting, the easier it will be to create custom programs that work the best in your ground.

[Geologyhound]

Well it arrived!  Both the remote and puck were on version 0.6.  I managed to get the remote updated but the puck was more difficult.  It kept jumping to the volume screen.  Then both buttons on the left would act as minus and both buttons on the right would act as plus.  Is this normal?

I don’t know how many times I turned the puck off and back on before I was finally able to get to the update screen.  It took a while, but I finally have everything paired and updated, charged and assembled with one exception.  It looks like the cap on the MI six was overtightened at the factory, as I noticed the cap was cracked right after I removed it from the box.  I tried to remove the cap to see the charge port, but it won’t budge.  The dealer hasn’t emailed my receipt yet, and I understand I cannot register it without proof of purchase.  And I can’t get it replaced until I can register it and file a warranty claim.  So I guess I will need to use my old White’s Bullseye for a while longer. ☹️
 

At least I can take the detector out tomorrow...

[unox]

Those caps definitely crack if there tightened too much, that a shame that it come like that out of the box though.

[F350Platinum]

Sorry about your MI-6, that happened to me too, and despite greasing them it still happens.

You can get replacement caps here, I would order 2. Price is acceptable and shipping is reasonable and fast:

https://www.colonialmetaldetectors.com/xp-pinpointer-end-cap.html

As the Cap'n wrote, get used to the stock programs first, I would totally recommend General for relic hunting and beach for beach ? don't jump right into the fancy stuff like sensitive or deep. I made that mistake and now just use a modified General program with success. I have a Beach sensitive program that works well in the beach, but really have to prove it out this year.

The menu system is a bit complicated but get out there and use the machine. They will become second nature quickly.

Looking forward to your exploits! ?

[Geologyhound]

First hunt with the D2 at some old residential properties.  I experimented with some of the stock programs, but spent most of the time in Rattlehead’s Silver Slayer.  The pitch tones are more like what I am used to with my Spectrum XLT.

I have some more learning to do on the nuances. I dug to 14 inches for an electrical outlet cover plate, and over 12 inches for a crushed pop can a couple times.  I abandoned another hole at 17 inches (signal around 92-95 and still dead centered) when my Pinpointer still couldn’t pick up a target and the gravel was a big pain.  I figured it was not a coin at that point.  I dug a number of pieces of aluminum flashing.  I wish I could figure out how to ignore those.

I am certain I missed several of these targets with my old detector.  One had a bulldog clamp over the top of it, and couple others were under a bunch of wire.  One of the nickels was actually on edge between two bricks on a step.

No silver, but not a bad afternoon. Three wheats - 1914, 1942 and 1944. Unfortunately the 1914 is a P, and the 1944 is not steel.  The ring is a corroded kid’s ring. The interesting finds were the paramount star Gary Cooper popsicle medal, and the Health-O Representative good luck piece.  Both of these finds are from the 1930s.  Don’t know if you can see it on the picture, but before WW2 the swastika was considered a good luck symbol...

[F350Platinum]

A good showing first time out. ? Silver Slayer is a great program but only if you just want coins and well... Everything else you said you dug. The D2 is really good at hitting hard on deep iron and aluminum/steel cans, lifting the coil on a strong signal helps, if it's still there a foot or more up, it's junk, or 95% probability. I have had a loud signal that I lifted on be this:

So it isn't all wine and roses. ? It's the tones that matter and you'll get used to them. I dug that because it sounded good. I use Silver Slayer in 3 scenarios: First, if there's machine gun iron and other junk, and second, if I'm under power lines and can't get stable. Third, I use it for pillage when my time is limited. ?‍☠️

Biggest problem there is you're missing brass and gold for the most part. My highest gold signal was a 79, and I dug a 14k 100+ year old gold ring.

My Relic Reaper program is discrimination-free, but you are going to hear everything. If your soil is not mineralized turning 45-90 degrees on iron will make the tone dive low, another technique you'll have to master if you use it. That and lifting will keep trash to a minimum. If it's red dirt or granite soil like Culpeper or New England, well God bless you and good luck, the tones will be first false and then silence, but it worked in Culpeper so I'm good.

I'll PM it to you if you want.

Like you I'm not a fan of the "Chicken Scratch™" tones, but I walked before I ran. ? I love and almost completely trust the D2.