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Reset Button On Dd?


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KIMG0672.thumb.JPG.2770ab3dda8308f94ab6e61cac900a9c.JPGVMI went out today, it was beautiful. Wanted to do a bunch of testing and comparisons on coils and depths between a vlf and pi. ( So i know where the cross over is ). When I got to the stock 11" dd commander for my 4500 it didn't work. I mean I waved it two inches off my pick before it responded! I looked the whole thing over but can't find the reset button. Any words of wisdom? I've included pics top and bottom for reference. And fat fingered the pics, sorry.

I think I'm going to ever so carefully take it apart with a two pound hammer and see if I can find the problem.

On the other hand I can now fully justify a new aftermarket.🤠

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Coils don't have reset buttons, they're just a dumb bit of wire in a plastic housing.  

Are you sure you didn't accidently flick your detector into cancel? 

Oddly the coils that could use a reset button are the XP coils, as they're a detector inside a coil, mine locked up and I had to reset it by disconnecting the battery! 

GPX coils on the other hard are not smart coils in any way, just wire.

Here is your DD Coil gutted and filleted. 

 

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15 minutes ago, phrunt said:

Coils don't have reset buttons, they're just a dumb bit of wire in a plastic housing.  

Are you sure you didn't accidently flick your detector into cancel? 

Oddly the coils that could use a reset button are the XP coils, as they're a detector inside a coil, mine locked up and I had to reset it by disconnecting the battery! 

GPX coils on the other hard are not smart coils in any way, just wire.

Here is your DD Coil gutted and filleted. 

 

Sorry  Phrunt, my sense of humor and sarcasm didn't translate in text. I know it doesn't have a reset. The video is ok , good to see the insides the the coil. I'm going to take mine apart out of curiosity.

And yes I was using multiple coils and everything else worked. So I didn't have it in cancel.  It worked fine two weeks ago. Just don't understand why it it failed.

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I had that exact coil years ago......it had done a lot of work on hard ground and finally died.

We gave it a good send off.....tied it to a tree branch and re calibrated it with 00 buck.

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So for any one who is interested...

It's possible that one of the very fine wires connecting to the epoxied doodad wasn't connected before I carefully removed some of the masking tape? In any event I was somewhat surprised that the bundling was a little more ... consistent. Im not an electronics guy but I thought it would be.

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3 minutes ago, Tony said:

I had that exact coil years ago......it had done a lot of work on hard ground and finally died.

We gave it a good send off.....tied it to a tree branch and re calibrated it with 00 buck.

Like your send off!

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Are you talking about the fine little wire that just connects to the black paper with tape, it's a shield wire.   To look at them they don't look like they're designed to last with all that masking tape.

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32 minutes ago, phrunt said:

Are you talking about the fine little wire that just connects to the black paper with tape, it's a shield wire.   To look at them they don't look like they're designed to last with all that masking tape.

No not that one. It was one that went to the connections to both coils that is covered in epoxy. I am not an electronics guy by any means. However there was no sign of water, no soil, the seal  was good.( A pain to separate in fact ). From a layman's point of view nothing appeared wrong. Probably have to hook it up to a multimeter or something to see where it went wrong. Oh well mechanical parts are prone to failure no matter the application. I don't abuse stuff but do use them  hard. I think I'll upgrade to a Nugget Finder Evo or a coiltech. I just bought two advantage coils for really cheap and was really impressed over the stock coils performance.

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You may just have a dirty pin at the connector plug, I would clean and check there when you get it back together.

I have had a similar problem on a Bounty Hunter coil until I found the problem.

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I have found the coil faults are usually in two places, one at the connector being a twisted wire or corroded pins.

The other issue is where the coil wire is pinched where it goes into the coil, as this water tight compression ring is to tight and breaks the wires, definitely has been a bad coil design adding that ring.

knock sensitive coils can be tied to windings having movement from lack of molding.

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