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Cleaning Coin Finds -- An Incomplete Overview (long)


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Update the paint stripper did nothing other than make the clad smell like a bag of oranges.

I also gave Trisodium Phosphate (TSP) used for cleaning walls etc prior to painting and it didn't do much at all.

So far the ammonia water and dish detergent does the best. Has a pretty low odor and think I'll make a batch of it for my ultrasonic cleaner.

Naval Jelly might be good on heavily corroded coins.

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I think its great to try different formulas for cleaning coins, relics,  and EO,s (encrusted objects). I'm sure most of us are just trying to identify and preserve our finds! And are not concerned with grading, or creating museum pieces! 

  That being said, those pieces are out there, and are found! And if there is any doubt! Do nothing but protect in a static environment, until they can be seen by someone more knowledgeable!??

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  • 4 weeks later...
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Clad....in my case NZ decimal cupro nickel 10, 20 and 50 cents I am ruthless with. The crusty rusted blob coins are put between a cloth and whacked with the hammer to break the crud up. From there, 2 choices. Rotary rock tumbler using malt vinegar and table salt (I dont bother sorting copper colour from silver colour so all come out pink) OR I use CLR. (Calciun, rust and lime descaler which is fairly potent acid). Coins get swirled with a wooden stick in a container and soak for 10 minutes in CLR, then a water rinse, another short soak in baking soda container then air dried. As long as the bank can recognise them they are accepted. 

I experimented with old copper pennies pushed into a potato, but the starch dried them out horribly even though they came out clean. I dont clean any coin of any value using water. I dry pick the date so I can read it. I like patina. Silver coins of no value I have experimented with the baking soda/aluminium method, lemon, citric acid, methylated spirits, vodka, the freezer method, electrolysis etc. I am still experimenting odd times on non value coins to find a safe way to get crud or dirt off.

Ocean coins soak in hydrogen peroxide and washing soda, or a mild non acidic soap and water solution. 

I read somewhere on the internet some VERY good advice worth thinking on......and roughly that was.....For every step you take or liquid you put on a coin to clean it, you CANNOT undo that step. The next step you take adds to that.....ALSO irreversible. So in short, any coins of value I will leave the cleaning to the next owner.

 

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Clad coins I dump into a vibratory tumbler with fine walnut shell that doesn't hurt them at all.

Do you check the quality of the vodka over ice prior to dunking the coins in? :)

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18 hours ago, kac said:

Clad coins I dump into a vibratory tumbler with fine walnut shell that doesn't hurt them at all.

Do you check the quality of the vodka over ice prior to dunking the coins in? ?

Lol...yes! .....before starting!

I have found Hagerty' Silver Foam to be brilliant to use on silver rings and coins. The badly blackened rings need a couple of repeats of the foam which at least doesnt scratch. 

To those who shine their silver coins so they blind, a little sulphur will reblacken and look more natural.

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8 hours ago, kac said:

CLR is the stuff they use to clean tubs etc right?

Photo of CLR.....great for rusty coins, rusty rings but dilute, soak for 10 minutes max, swish around, then rinse well in soapy water. A step further is to neutralize the acids with a soak in baking soda or baking powder and water. May need a repeat on very bad rusty coins. DO NOT GET IT ON YOUR SKIN in its neat form.....it will burn!!!, so be careful. I put my rusty coins in a sieve that sits nicely in a container so I dont have to touch them and stir with a wooden stick. Hope this all helps.

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No scratch foam and so easy to use. Normal polishing of silver, even plated, will remove over time a microscopic layer. This product doesnt, and I use it on silver coins and jewellery. This tub has so far lasted me over 10 years! although Im near empty now.

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