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  1. Sold our gold bug 2 in one day on craigslist yesterday....got 3/4 what we paid originally. Was going to sell the Zed...could have sold it as well on the first day but then I chickened out...there are hardly any new or used detectors available right now on the internet...out of stock is what I'm seeing. even the small coil for the nox is hard to come by. Am I missing something here? Strick
  2. Here are the results on the four gold specimens from the post "Cleaning Gold Specimens - Step By Step Methods". Specimen A: \ Specimen B: Close up photos of Specimen B front and back: Specimens C: Specimen: D
  3. PART ONE: Pictured below are four gold specimens that I have found and I will discuss what methods I use to remove the host rock revealing mother nature's treasure. I gave each specimen a "letter" designation so you can follow the progress from start to finish on each specimen. Part Two I will discuss the chemicals and equipment I use to clean gold or mineral specimens.
  4. By using $1800 for gold and $28 for silver as a base a common dime would have a value of 2.02 and a .6 grain (not gram) nugget would have a value of 2.02 if it was at 90% purity.If you want to know the silver amount of a common dime multiply .07234 times the spot price of silver.A .6 grain nugget is tiny. I would rather find a nugget then a silver dime any day unless it is a very rare silver coin.I imagine you nugget hunters stumble on to a nice coin now and then.I heard Tom Massie found a $20 gold piece when he was nugget hunting.I hope I did my math right.Even with copper surging to $4.06 today a common dime only has .27 cents of copper in it.
  5. What is, if we should, get the dark crust from an old liberty dime to determine date and other details. No scrubbing with steel wool? Acids? Thank you in advance here at this forum for any help you can give.
  6. One of the most controversial topics in metal detecting and coin collecting is that of cleaning coins. A lot of this comes from failure to define terms, such as purpose of cleaning and what ‘cleaning’ really means. I’m starting this thread as much to educate myself as anything. As such it is a bit of ‘brainstorming’. I’m not an expert although as is often the case, many of the people who claim to be such aren’t either. “Reader beware” has never been more true than in the 21st Century internet / social media world and this post is no exception. Numismatics is the fancy word for coin collecting, and the topic of coin cleaning must include facts and opinions coming from that segment of activity and knowledge. Here is a list of some of the concepts/issues/concerns expressed there: 1) A coin’s patina is important. ‘Patina’ is the natural toning that comes with age. This idea is shared with antique collecting, as is the concern over refurbishing/restoring/refinishing of antiques in general. It is almost universally accepted in numismatics that coins that haven’t been cleaned are vastly superior to coins that exhibit signs of having been cleaned. Whether or not you consider this reasonable, it’s locked in and not going to change. 2) Most of modern numismatics, and particularly the area with the largest investment, is in uncirculated coins. A lot of the information among numistmatists on coin cleaning relates to uncirculated coins. 3) Although “beauty is in the eye of the beholder” is a general cliche’, coins do change hands and many/most methods of cleaning cannot be reversed. Much of coin collecting (hell, much of the world in general) is about value and (permanent) cleaning has ruined a lot of coins’ values over history – thus the reason for major concern amongst numistmatists on this subject. What does ‘ruin’ mean? Reducing its value by 75-90% isn't uncommon. 4) Most collected coins did not spend years in the ground. The issues we detectorists experience are rarely even considered by coin collectors. 5) Often the word ‘cleaning’ among numistmatists is confused with ‘conservation’. The latter is loosely defined as removing foreign matter that in the long term will damage a coin. ‘Cleaning’ is simply trying to improve the appearance of a coin. Conservation is accepted, if done properly, of course. Even the two major grading services offer conservation options. 6) Statements such as the most common -- “never clean coins” -- or even the less dogmatic “cleaning should be left to professionals” may be well intentioned, but are neither informative nor practical. Who are these ‘professionals’? I suspect if you went to a coin show/convention and did a survey you would get very few answers to this question, but rather be referred back to #1 (“never clean coins!”). Although so far it may seem that numismatists are Chicken Littles, there is a lot of validity to their concerns. It’s just that you need to go past the cliche’s to understand that. Let’s start with an analogy many of us are familiar with – cleaning eyeglasses. What’s the best way to do that? (“Never clean eyeglasses” isn’t an option!) Fortunately micro-fiber cloth is a fairly modern convenience, and that (with a mild cleaning solution) is the proper method. But how many of us have used paper towels, cotton cloths (such as handkerchiefs or shirt-tails), etc. to accomplish the task? I have, and the results are eye-opening (no pun intended). Permanent scratches result, at least for modern plastic lenses (and that includes polycarbonate lenses). Abrasives are a common cleaning medium. Sandpaper is a good example. Would you clean your eyeglasses with sandpaper? Well, fibers in paper and cloth are also abrasives. That also applies to cleaning of coins. The naked eye may not notice fine scratches but coin grading involves magnification and then the scratches look like river valleys. (OK, I exaggerate.) What seem like minor differences in coin grades can translate to huge differences in value. Scratches are one of the things that determine coin grades. A very common occurrence in metal detecting, if YouTube videos are any indication, is the immediate rubbing of a coin when retrieved from the ground. The sand grains, etc., in the attached soil are abrasives! If you want to identify a recovered coin in the field, then take along a small spray bottle and blast the coin with water. (BTW, I’m aware that some perceived experts have claimed that water damages a freshly retrieved coin. While always holding out the possibility that my logic is wrong, ask yourself this question: how many years has this coin been in the ground, free from contact with water?!!!! Even the driest desert gets rainfall occasionally.) The reality is that many coins coming from the ground, especially those which contain mostly copper, are not attractive and sometimes not even identifiable without aggressive cleaning. If you’ve read this far, hoping to get some good answers, you are going to be disappointed. I don’t have them, yet. There have been a few threads on detectorprospector.com with discussion of cleaning methods. I’m not going to repeat those, nor even link to them since they are scattered. What I am going to do this year (new year’s resolution) is to both read more deeply and experiment with cleaning methods. I already own one book on the subject and just ordered two more from Amazon. My workshop is being upgraded to, among other things, make it more conducive to simple chemical experimentation. I’ll report back with my findings. In the meantime, here's an interesting discussion among coin collectors on the subject. Also, a well chronicled experience with one of the coin certification services regarding coin cleaning/conservation.
  7. So I was killing time eye shopping gold nuggets, I like looking but never buy any until now when I saw what I thought was a really beautiful 29.32g gold nugget pendant. This one was full of character and had a variety of color and texture, the simple silver wire mount cleverly wrapped to hold it securely without solder or permanent attachment the perfect gift for my wife’s birthday. Well, it came in the mail today and for reasons beyond comprehension he decided to clean it. The silver mount I guess melted in the acid, it looks I think much less interesting and the weight is down to 26.2g from it’s natural state at 29.32 a little of that lost fine gold. I’m sure I could return it the seller is very reputable but still like it just not nearly as much, what do you think am I wrong thinking it was much prettier before it was cleaned...should the seller have even done this after posting the pictures in his add? before cleaning after cleaning
  8. I have 3 batches like this. I just listed one on CL for 175.00. Almost all iron items with some brass, ceramic etc. Priced too low? Too high? Going to be getting rid of all my old finds soon. Any ideas, opinions are good to hear. Thanks.
  9. Hi Folks Yep it's old kiwigold back again. (Trev from New Zealand) some of you may remember me from days gone by. 73 years old now. Had a dose of throat cancer diagnosed late last year, 30 treatments of radiation seems to have sorted that out. And my prognosis is good. After a long absence from chasing gold have decided to get back into it. Ha ha one last fling lol. Before the body gets to tired or my back craps out. Small scale I must admit. No more underwater dredging for me. I will be working the banks for mainly fine gold. Have put together a system utilizing a mid western prospectors dry land suction nozzle. Now down to a two and a half inch suction nozzle. Guess I won't be shifting much eh. But at least everything is a lot lighter than what I used to use. And I don't expect to make a fortune. More of a paying hobby if I am lucky. Will flick some pics up, when I get on the river and everything running. Now back to the Subject heading. A guy here in NZ got hold of me, wanting two ounces of as pure as he can get beach gold, not pure as in purity,but not contaminated with to much black sand. Now I don't do beach mining any more, that was years ago. Like about 20. But I have a mate who still does. And maybe able to help. But we all amalgamate our concentrate. End up with a blob of gold sponge, which we then melt. Now somewhere years back on one of the gold forums. I recall seeing a mention of how to convert gold sponge back into free running gold. It may have been, soak in lemon juice or vinegar for a while. But not sure on that. My memory ain't what it used to be. So can anybody assist who knows of the method or knows someone that does. I have attached a pic of some gold sponge I had. Sadly I turned that into a little blob of melted gold. A whole .58 of a gram. Yahoo I'm rich. So I can't experiment with it. Good to be back. Although I do read the forum from time to time, haven't posted for several years. Cheers Trev in New Zealand.
  10. https://amp.jsonline.com/amp/5458324002 If you live close to Milwaukee, or maybe other places throughout the country, you may be able to make a 5% premium for cashing in your coins!
  11. I was wondering if it could be a good idea store corroded metal detecting finds in a container of oil? I have old bits and pieces made of copper etc. and it probably isn't good for them in the long term to be out in the air for oxidation reasons. What I was thinking of doing was filling a container with vegetable oil and putting them all into it for long term storage, until I can find a better place to store them, think this is a good idea or could it damage them? Maybe there is another type of preservation liquid?
  12. In this video this lawyer claims that this person who found a 9 cwt diamond in Arkansas is responsible for paying taxes whether he sells it or not. Then he goes on and claims anything a person would find, they would pay tax on it if they sell or not. My understanding when it comes to gold (nuggets, specimens, coins, etc.) it is not taxable until you sell it. I'm not sure about other items one might find that are valuable. What's you opinion?
  13. putting this here, because not sure where it fits best.... I have a huge bag of lousy shape coins I want to clean up...or rather have my kids clean up. I want to get some sort of tumbler that is sturdy and won't wear out with a lot of use. Anyone have specific models/brands they like, or models to stay away from? Thanks.
  14. Last Friday we were lucky enough to have a break in the typical Southern Calif Desert heat wave and those lower temps gave me and a friend a chance to hit a new area for us to check for nuggets. After spending the day we managed to score 6 little nuggets between us, the top 2 were mine and the bottom 4 were his. As you can see, this first picture was taken before anything was done to clean them up. My usual routine is once I get them home I give them a quick wash with some hot water and dish soap, then let them dry, then into a CLR (calcuim lime rust) remover bath for the next 24 hours. Once the bath is done its a rinse in some hot water and into a sonic jewelry cleaner for 5 minuets and I am done with them at that point. 2nd picture is them finished and the last 2 pictures are from a USB microscope. Would like to see how everyone else is cleaning up their finds.
  15. My name is George im from long island ny.I have been metel detecting since 1992.From finding fake teeth with gold filling to coins rings and trash never a dull moment for me.The machines i own is the xlt spectrum,mx7 and the one and only equinox 800.I have found great treasures with each one and trash also.The first 2 machines are a single freq.The equinox has 40 freq.The rings i have found with the equinox the id number was always 7 or a 8.The ring i have found which looked like a washer but when i turned it around it had 24 tiny little diamonds half way around the ring.What surprised me was it was labeled PD950!? I took it to a jeweler in my town.The girl told me it was platinum.Her boss explained to me that it was palladium and it was 95% of the metal.He also said that its higher than gold.And the diamonds were real.So looking on a chart how much palladium was $56.00 per gram he gave me $60.As i was leaving he said thank you very much?Did i just get screwed?I checked out the website of palladium rings $700 $900 even $1300.So the chart i saw was for metal.I should of sold it myself.A to a pawn dealer the scales are usually off by 1 gram trust me.Before going to one i went across the street to buy a jewelery scale it was reading a little over 2 grams.So i went over to the pawn dealer he placed it on his scale and it was reading 1 gram.So be assure always weigh the piece that you find is the right measure and if it isnt dont say a word and find someone else that is not trying to rip you off.Happy hunting to all safe out there carry dog spray!
  16. We've had many threads in the past that show auction sites for buying and selling natural gold and minerals. I know there are 'go to' places out there where you have bought and sold. The pictures they have of gold can be enlightening about where to look for gold. Now that the price of gold is up you may want to look into your collections and get some cash. I saw a recent post that said someone sold their gold in Quartzsite. Who is the buyer there? I've heard other people say they need to drive to Phoenix to see gold found in Quartzsite. Does anyone trust someone by mail? Here is a place that displays Northern Nevada gold. I don't know anything about them other than this link. https://northernnevadagold.com/en/ Here is a place that you can sell high end gold and not have to wait for an auction. I have been to their store in Laguna Beach, seen them at shows and know some prospectors here have sold to them. https://kristalle.com/product-category/gold-gallery/
  17. Hey guys I'm not sure if this is allowed here or not I'm just getting into this whole world. But anyways I and a friend of mine have 2 massive Baghdad Mine Az Gem silica druzy capped chrysocolla boulders. One is 62 lbs and one is 86lbs. I've been trying time find a buyer for at least the bigger one. But can't seem to find the right place to go would anyone lend me a hand?
  18. Coins, bits, fishing sinkers and half a ring from beach last week in NZ. We have new 10, 20 and 50 cent cupro nickle coins which just degrade and rust in the sea salt or even the soil. The bad ones I just put between a cloth and a few whacks with a hammer to get the crud off, either rotary tumble with malt vinegar and salt or if Im feeling vicious.....into a container of CLR (calcium, lime and rust remover), then a container of water, finaly container of baking soda and water. Banks here will only accept coins that are recognizable.....no matter the colour, as in rotary tumbling I plonk the 10c cupro copper with "silver" 20 and 50's and they all come out a pretty pink! Only advantage of cupro nickle is they are magnetic.......using a 120kg pull neodymium is interesting fun !!!!!! However, what the photo does say is they were deep and bèen in the sand a long time.....and that is from a beach which is constantly detected by others.
  19. anyone here have any personal experience using a professional to restore old one-piece stamped buttons? I have a couple revolutionary war, pre-revolutionary war, and very early 1800s buttons i would like to try to have restored...not having much look so far.
  20. I recently used the "after" picture in another thread, but while I was looking for the after picture I also found the "before" picture. The product I use is Ali Brite. I have no idea if it is available in the States but it is described as a "etching type acid". Be careful with the stuff, above all, don`t get it in your eyes, and if it comes in a plastic bottle, use a plastic container to soak your speci`s in. And you have got to be patient, I left these pieces in acid for several months. Anyway, this is the before and after. Dave http://www.supercheapauto.com.au/Product/Septone-Ali-Brite-Aluminium-Cleaner-1-Litre/1747
  21. Anyone know the best bang for the buck for weigh scales, from experience? I’ve been looking at re-loader scales.
  22. I could use some advice here, these are somehow associated with what looks like a spot metal plating device but I don't really know anything about this stuff or the chemicals, the stuff sealed in the silver bag sounds ominous and is anybody here familiar with any of this stuff. the little brown plastic bottle where the label has disintegrated has about 3/8 of an inch of dark clear amber heavy liquid, i believe for plating gold???? Im not messing with any of it until im sure what it all is any ideas?
  23. With gold prices on the rise, over $1500US an ounce right now, up from $1200 at the beginning of the year, I am tempted to sell an ounce of the broken 10 and 14K bits I’ve accumulated. Just curious as to what the rest of y’all do with your gold jewelry. Save it or sell it??
  24. On Thursday I went to search for more coins in a local park and in just 15 minutes I came across this Indian Head penny. I would like to know the best way to clean this coin so I may have it placed in a frame and hang it on a wall. This is the oldest coin that I have found to date, and it even beat out a 1924 dime that I found within 15 feet of where I found this penny. It had a lot of mud on it when I dug it up so I ran some water on it and found the date. This penny was wedged between 2 roots standing on edge and about 8 inches down. I had a ID number of 19 in one direction and a 20 in another direction so I decided to dig it up. I used the settings that another member showed me a week earlier when we met in Casey, IL. and I am sorry for not knowing the settings off the top of my head to put them in here. Please if someone knows a way to clean this up I would greatly appreciate your knowledge. I guess I am starting to get the hang of this Equinox 800 and I can only hope that this is just the beginning of a long and wonderful relationship of metal detecting. Valen
  25. Sometimes I do a quick search on old coins I find on ebay for quickie reference on what people are selling them for and think I found a counterfeit ring going on. See back of this quarter for example: You will notice where there is detail it is raised more which leads me to believe that it was created from a 3d scan. I say that because typically 3d scanner will not have enough resolution no matter how good and will average the heights when details are too close and small causing a puffiness in that area. A coin back then was done from a large master and milled on a pantograph milling machine. Now coins dies are made from edm (electrical discharge machining) where a graphite master is burned into the die then it's polished. Anyways the prices on them are ridiculously low and there seems to be a lot of subtle oddities that make me suspicious. The example I showed a real 1943 silver in half descent condition would be around $20-$30 and not $0.99. Who do I contact on that? Does ebay care? Anyways buyer beware on that.
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