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Swampstomper Al

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About Swampstomper Al

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    Copper Contributor

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  • Location:
    Space Coast, FL
  • Interests:
    Metal detectin', guitar pickin', motorcycle ridin'..

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  1. I say yes.. It should be noted that besides the rare dates there are a bunch of doubled dies floating around, many more than shown in the Red Book.. There are also many error and varieties too, some of which can fetch a ermmm pretty penny.. Check sites such as doubleddie dot com, varietyvista dot com, coppercoins dot com and a couple other sites for specific years along with photo examples.. Swamp
  2. Thanks for posting in this thread, Cabin.. I was trying to find an old thread where we were talking about cleaning coins cos I wanted to credit the person (you, as it turns out) who mentioned erasers -- but couldn't find that post.. I have a lot of artist supplies, mainly photograph / negative dyes and pencils accumulated during years in the now mostly obsolete industry.. I also have many different types of erasers but not a large pink one, since those are the ones found on the end of most pencils.. During the previous thread I found your eraser solution interesting so deceided to give it a try on IHPs I'd taken as far as I could this side of ultrasonic, caustics and/or oil.. This is when I discovered I didn't have a large pink eraser in my arsenal and also discovered they'd just break off the end of pencils due to amount of pressure needed (I could have made it work using vice grips or hemostats, but having others to test saved it for a last attempt if necessary..) Out of all the others, which included plastic, gum, vinyl, magic rub, kneedgummi, an unknown substance containing erasing fluid and a few others unidentified beyond 'eraser', the only one that worked, and worked quite well, is the PaperMate Union ink on one end pencil on the other end eraser (other name brands omitted intentionally..) It took a lot of elbow grease, but I eventually got the one I worked on 98% clean and I could have gotten the remainder if I worked some more on those recessed areas.. The price one pays is yeah, they become really shiny.. But I've been letting it sit out, putting it in with change etc. etc. and it's toning back down kinda quickly.. I only tried this on the one copper.. I'm fairly certain the ink side would be damaging to 'silver' coins and the pencil side will leave "rings around the stars" while making the rest of those coins too shiny.. But I still have a bunch of other erasers to try, if I want to give other than copper a go.. One other thing I noticed: As easily as new "copper" coins scratch even with new soft cloths, old copper coins stand up to just about whatever you throw at them eraserwise.. I couldn't notice anything that stood out above what was already there.. Point being, between these two types of erasers ( EDIT: and the hydrogen peroxide ) a person can most likely do a durn good job at cleaning up other-than-numismatic-value copper coins.. Swamp EDIT: This references your first reply only..
  3. Please don't take any of the following the wrong way.. I'm merely replying to what you ask the best I know: It's hard enough trying to dispense non-destructive coin cleaning advice when all variables are known; impossible to do when none are known.. What does "pre-decimal" even mean..? You say NZ coins, but does that mean also found in NZ..? If so or otherwise, where found (meaning geographical location, not 'on the beach' or 'on land' -- I will assume land because you said 'washing off the dirt', but that doesn't tell me an actual where..)? What type of soil (meaning acidic / alkaline, not hot / mild..)? Of what are the coins made (percentage of each metal is helpful..)? Since NZ coins, are they double metal..? More than one denomination..? I could go on.. Almost never if not absolutely never do I consider much less describe substance or discoloration on the surface of any coin coming out of the ground as "patina.." Absolute best case one might get away with using 'toning'.. More than likely it's chemical / mineral coloration or damage.. I can't tell you how to present but pretty much fair trade value comes down to a question of rarity.. As far as anyone else appreciating your respect for the coin and its condition by leaving it alone goes the answer is neutral-at-best, but you'll definitely hear about even the most passive failed cleaning attempt -- soon to be followed with a much lower price offer, if indeed an offer at all.. When it comes to cleaning dug coins specifically, intent being numismatic sale, my advice is a distilled water soak, perhaps some gentle agitation to float away loosened dirts, clean cloth pat dry and that's it.. If you absolutely cannot leave a coin alone, my recommendation is sonic clean in distilled water, then pat dry.. However, do not be surprised if sonic cleaning removes some but not all of the debris / buildup / toning -- in which case you end up with a partially 'shiny' coin with a distinct line of demarcation between that and the non-removed substance(s).. What does one do then..? Does the coin look better or worse that way..? It is for the most part a combination of uncharted territory and a buyer's market when offering "found" / "dug" coinage in a numismatic environment, possible exception rarest-of-the-rare items.. Entrance, with coins of alteration, is at one's own risk.. Swamp
  4. My thought; I agree.. Why..? You say you're surrounded by old gold mines.. What makes you think you have near-surface detectable Au when all your now-long-gone neighbors needed to go underground to get at theirs..? Just sayin'.. Swamp
  5. Swampstomper Al

    2nd Year On My Monster 1000

    So much for those locations bein' all worked out, I done guess.. 🌵🌵🌵 NIce shootin' -- the Monster is a monster..! 👍 Swamp
  6. I hesitate to click the translate button; will wait for Paul's interpretation.. Swamp
  7. Swampstomper Al

    My 2018 Coin, Relic, Jewelry Summary

    Yup, that's the most recent iteration of the Zincoln.. Been minting the shield reverse since 2010.. Penny got switched to clad mid-1982, so there's both copper and clad cents that year.. Swamp
  8. Swampstomper Al

    Silver Sings! Happy New Years To All!

    The voice behind the camera is "I Break For Bedrock" on YouTube.. He also writes as Adam H for ICMJ.. Swamp
  9. Swampstomper Al

    2019 - A Look Ahead

    Yeah, what this guy said.. Or x2, if you rather.. Swamp
  10. Swampstomper Al

    A Once In A Lifetime Gold Find

    Oh geez -- Now Steve's gonna need to re-do his this year's who found gold coinage list.. Very kewl find indeed, ^5 ! I agree w/BigSkyGuy -- info on where found please.. Swamp
  11. Swampstomper Al

    100 Yr Old Dragon Find Needs ID Help

    There really isn't a simple, as in short and at the same time complete or satisfying, answer to your question.. I'll try to nutshell what I believe this is the best I can; you'll need to do some further searching for verification and fact checking.. I'm using the year 1876 as the starting point, along with the following decade for gearing up and mfg.. The three major factors in play at that time in relation to your find (which I'm not sure I'd call a dragon as much as a lizard -- it's kind of amorphous to my way of seeing it) are: 1) The American Centennial celebration in Philadelphia; 2) Industrial Revolution; 3) probable Chinese input / influence in the manufacturing sector.. The American Centennial and year are important because they are the where and when ascribed to an artistic period called The Aesthetic Movement.. The Industrial Revolution is important since it allowed mfg's to mass produce (in this case complex art works using industrial metals..) The Chinese population because of the spiritual and Feng Shui'ish influences evident in many items (lamps and paintings as well as castings,) most of which were given a Japanese spin for reasons unknown to me.. That's pretty much the bare bones nuts-and-bolts of the way I see it.. I admit I couldn't remember the name given that art period; I had to look it up.. (I knew that art history class I took forty-se ahmmmmm fifteen years ago would be useless..) Oh -- the reason I think that might be a lizard..? Check the casting of the tail end.. If it doesn't appear to have been broken off, remember lizards can lose their tails.. It's possible the casting will confirm ID if it appears complete.. I honestly can't say which it may be from the photos alone.. They're both positive energy creatures, lizard yin dragon yang.. Swamp EDIT: When I say dragon I reference wingless ala Chinese.. Those winged flying things in the flicks don't seem real positive energy as in for the betterment of mankind kind of way to me, knowotimean..
  12. Swampstomper Al

    I Found A Good One Today :-)

    I hope you can too.. You're on some incredible ground there as far as finding early presses of both colonial and USA coinage goes.. Finds of 18th century foreign coinage is, let's say, "common" in the NE US.. Late 18th & early 19th century USA struck coins..? Not so much.. Good hunting to you come springtime..! Swamp
  13. Swampstomper Al

    A Gold Coin Story

    Killer finds, strick..! Please tell me there's a " CC " on the rev of that 1874 too.. Swamp
  14. Swampstomper Al

    I Found A Good One Today :-)

    I'm seeing a 1786 VERMONTENSIUM.. Very nice 1818 large cent as well.. Wonderful finds both..! Swamp
  15. Swampstomper Al

    So A Horseshoe Really Is Lucky!

    Hey Simon.. Try this with the lower left coin, or any metal object actually, having partial embodyment coatings up through complete encasement (as opposed to trying this on what has now become an item's 'new' chemically altered permanent surface, which in many cases won't be known what's what until well into the removal attempt..) This is a slow soaking process, like six months and longer for heavy encrustations, so it's best one check one's instant gratification expectations at the door.. It's also a safe process; not at all the same as tossing encrusted salt-water beach finds (coins) into a jar of half vinegar half water -- only to come back a month later to find all of them pitted and some of them in the process of being electroplated or some such... Using coins for this example: Place into a jar (I'm partial to glass but any type will do) the coins one wishes to soak.. Add mineral oil to a depth of complete coin immersion.. Cover jar with proper fitting lid ('to keep out external impurities' more than any other reason, although 'for prevention of runaway leakage if tipped' is acceptable too..) Place jar on shelf (or in drawer, or on floor, or in suit jacket pocket -- just about anyplace, really..) Check back in six months to see what's cooked (alternately: swing by after 90 days to give the jar a little jiggle; stop again three months on to see what's off..) That's it; this either works or it doesn't.. And let's face it, even in the best of situations the results aren't going to be spectacular.. I suppose that's why this is mainly used on coins of antiquity where it may be possible to ID something otherwise unidentifiable.. ** NOTE: This is also a correction to a previously mentioned oil for this type of cleaning.. At that time I'd noted olive oil for use with this procedure, which it is -- to an extent.. I've since discovered possible situations problematic between olive oil and organics.. Mineral oil becomes the better choice, as it inhibits growth organic post-soaking.. ** Swamp